Axle Collection Thread

[Tommy Styrvoky]

1 hour ago, Didumos69 said:

The portal hubs look very clean and the whole setup looks very sturdy. When studying the LXF-file I noticed the pivot offset of the steering rods lies one stud outside the steering axis. Doesn't that give a negative Ackermann effect or is that negligible?

I didn't have any issues with the axle in the model, it wouldn't be too difficult to adjust the whole setup to fix the issue. When I built the model, I just wanted a robust axle, I didn't think too much about geometry at the time, as it was my first 4x4

Edited October 6, 2016 by Tommy Styrvoky

[JJ2]

Beautiful @Didumos69 I really want to get the Porsche but I have a feeling I will be slowly buying the parts to make a replica.

[2LegoOrNot2Lego...]

Both axles designs of @Tommy Styrvoky and @Didumos69 are very cool. Love how you guys manage to come up with new stuff all the time... 

@Tommy Styrvoky  What I love particularly about your design is the low mounting points of the shock absorber. This is excellent...

[KikoTube]

Hello Guys.

I Need a Little help at my new axle which i designed for my next Trial truck

Here it is: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ck9x7pxu9thfquu/lego trial truck axle by kikotube.lxf?dl=0

I want a 3 link design.

I still need a mounting Point for an a arm. But i dont know where and how i can build it sturdy

Thx for your help

 

Edited October 9, 2016 by KikoTube

[suffocation]

What about a 9L Panhard behind the shock absorbers?

[KikoTube]

Just now, suffocation said:

What about a 9L Panhard behind the shock absorbers?

Panhard?

[JJ2]

Here
Nice pictures explaining it.

[Imanol BB]

The panhard bar is the one which maintains the axle in a certain position and avoids it from moving side to side, TLG has used it in the 8110 and the 42043 the problem is that when it is compressed, the axle tends to move sideways,so i recommend using 3-4 links suspension as this system that wont displace the axle sideways when is compressed.

[suffocation]

A 9L rod makes the sideway displacement virtually unnoticeable.

[KikoTube]

Thx for all your Feedback guys!

But i think you understood my question wrong. As i wrote in my first post i want to use 3 link System. I only Need a mounting Point for my a arm

Edited October 9, 2016 by KikoTube
grammar

[suffocation]

I think you can do away with the A arm if you use a properly mounted Panhard rod. It'd fit great on your axle.

[Saberwing40k]

I've got something for you:

 

I just offset the steering axle, it should still work like this. Now, you have a couple of mounting options.

 

You can use either of the two towballs in the rear, or add another structure in the center, or just about whatever you want/need.

LXF: link

 

[KikoTube]

7 hours ago, Saberwing40k said:

I've got something for you:

 

I just offset the steering axle, it should still work like this. Now, you have a couple of mounting options.

 

You can use either of the two towballs in the rear, or add another structure in the center, or just about whatever you want/need.

LXF: link

 

That was what i wanted. Thank you ver much ?

[offroadcreations]

Hello all, 

I am trying to create an independent suspension with drive and steering. It must be 11L from towball to towball, like in Efferman's suspension, which mine is based off of. His:

Mine: 

So my problem is that when I turn, the truck comes to an almost complete stop. One wheel is turned father than the other:

 Does anyone have any ideas to fix this? Thanks in advance.

[Didumos69]

2 hours ago, Offroadcreat1ons said:

So my problem is that when I turn, the truck comes to an almost complete stop. One wheel is turned father than the other:

Does anyone have any ideas to fix this? Thanks in advance.

In turns the steering links (5L suspension arms) close in on each other due to the tilting of the 3x3 liftarm. The effect is that one wheel turns sharper than the other. You could say you created yourself the inverse of Ackermann steering. So what you could try to do, is flip the whole suspension setup backwards. Then this angle difference might even turn out useful.

Edited December 7, 2016 by Didumos69

[1gor]

On 6. 10. 2016. at 8:29 PM, Didumos69 said:

I would like to add my 42056 front axle mod for my ultimately playable Porsche to this collection. It is tailored to relatively heavy builds with its 4 hard springs. Compared to the original 42056 front axles this setup includes Ackermann steering and a slider for the gear rack. It uses the full length of the suspension arms and adds a second (push rod) shock on each side. It eliminates bump stear, increases the front ground clearance to 1 stud and secures the suspension arms much better. In my Porsche this mod matches other mods, for instance the rear HoG steering mod, which connects to the axle with U-joint at the bottom of this setup.

LXF-file here (note that I used placeholders for the new 42056 wheel hubs).

Do not get me wrong, but all this "modifications" look unreal. I can understand when LEGO tries to use this  

http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=15459&idColor=86#T=C&C=86

instead of leaf spring...or when you try to make narrow axle so you use gears and different arrangements for differential or whe you just add mechanical drive to model that has in reality hydrostatic drive but in this case where suspension is possible to make it completely mechanical...

 

Real GT3 has this kind of suspension 

http://www.guideautoweb.com/en/galleries/28495/porsche-cayman-gt4-vs-911-gt3-rs-the-fight-for-first-place/?im=17,

(this image shows the essence)

and all of those improvisatons look wired to me. I beleive that there are a lot of eurobrickers who share my thoughts.

Edited December 7, 2016 by I_Igor
found additional image that could help mocers

[Didumos69]

5 minutes ago, I_Igor said:

Do not get me wrong, but all this "modifications" look unreal. I can understand when LEGO tries to use this  

http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=15459&idColor=86#T=C&C=86

instead of leaf spring...or when you try to make narrow axle so you use gears and different arrangements for differential or whe you just add mechanical drive to model that has in reality hydrostatic drive but in this case where suspension is possible to make it completely mechanical...

 

Real GT3 has this kind of suspension 

http://www.guideautoweb.com/en/galleries/28495/porsche-cayman-gt4-vs-911-gt3-rs-the-fight-for-first-place/?im=17,

and all of those improvisatons look wired to me. I beleive that there are a lot of eurobrickers who share my thoughts.

I think I understand your point and I also agree that the setup I shared does not resemble the real GT3 front suspension. As I stated in the OP of the ultimately playable Porsche I aim for playability rather than authenticity when it comes to modding the Porsche. So McPherson strut suspension and rear wheel steering? No. But HoG steering and HoG shifting? Yes. The MOD you are quoting improves the way the suspension arms are fixed, it improves the front ground clearance - which is less than a stud in the stock model - and it adds Ackermann geometry. All these things add to playability, while preserving the stock body. So yes, these are all improvisations. If you rather seek for authenticity, then please ignore.

Having said that, I think it's kind of gratuitous to make a statement like 'I beleive that there are a lot of eurobrickers who share my thoughts'.

 

[JJ2]

12 hours ago, Offroadcreat1ons said:

Hello all, 

I am trying to create an independent suspension with drive and steering. It must be 11L from towball to towball, like in Efferman's suspension, which mine is based off of. His:

*snip*

Mine: 

*snip*

So my problem is that when I turn, the truck comes to an almost complete stop. One wheel is turned father than the other:
*snip*

 Does anyone have any ideas to fix this? Thanks in advance.

Try my design

 There are a few versions in the thread but it will fit your needs

[offroadcreations]

18 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

In turns the steering links (5L suspension arms) close in on each other due to the tilting of the 3x3 liftarm. The effect is that one wheel turns sharper than the other. You could say you created yourself the inverse of Ackermann steering. So what you could try to do, is flip the whole suspension setup backwards. Then this angle difference might even turn out useful.

Thanks! I am not entirely sure how I would do this, but I may try in the future. 

8 hours ago, JJ2 said:

Try my design

 There are a few versions in the thread but it will fit your needs

Thanks! do you have any more photos of it? I can't see what is between the A-arms.

[JJ2]

45 minutes ago, Offroadcreat1ons said:

Thanks! do you have any more photos of it? I can't see what is between the A-arms.

I used to have a folder for instructions but they seem to have been deleted. From my memory it was a lot like Effermans design, with the bevel gear drive, I believe I had one of these where the DBG beam can be seen on the underside in between the two 5L wishbones, I used custom built top wishbones instead of the 5L ones but I did that to make room for the V2 engine, the main MOD I did was use a rack and pinion instead of the T beam to steer. The rest was improving the mounting points for my needs.

[1gor]

20 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

I think I understand your point and I also agree that the setup I shared does not resemble the real GT3 front suspension. As I stated in the OP of the ultimately playable Porsche I aim for playability rather than authenticity when it comes to modding the Porsche. So McPherson strut suspension and rear wheel steering? No. But HoG steering and HoG shifting? Yes. The MOD you are quoting improves the way the suspension arms are fixed, it improves the front ground clearance - which is less than a stud in the stock model - and it adds Ackermann geometry. All these things add to playability, while preserving the stock body. So yes, these are all improvisations. If you rather seek for authenticity, then please ignore.

Having said that, I think it's kind of gratuitous to make a statement like 'I beleive that there are a lot of eurobrickers who share my thoughts'.

 

I understand that you want to improove existing concept, but I think that you should try with McPherson suspension - it is smaller and gives you more space for additional finctionality, or at least bigger trunk (which is last thing needed in porsche).

Statement that I made was result of my "reading" through posts when people comment LEGO 42056 set, it is not ment to describe your work as something bad (it is better that original one), but to give you some kind of hint or direction what should you try or at least to think about it. you see the whole idea of making model (and LEGO licensed sets are models made from LEGO parts) is to make it authentic as posible.

[Vectormatic]

11 minutes ago, I_Igor said:

I understand that you want to improove existing concept, but I think that you should try with McPherson suspension - it is smaller and gives you more space for additional finctionality, or at least bigger trunk (which is last thing needed in porsche).

Statement that I made was result of my "reading" through posts when people comment LEGO 42056 set, it is not ment to describe your work as something bad (it is better that original one), but to give you some kind of hint or direction what should you try or at least to think about it. you see the whole idea of making model (and LEGO licensed sets are models made from LEGO parts) is to make it authentic as posible.

Has anyone managed to make a reasonable McPherson strut in technic? It would be much better for a front engine rear drive car then double wishbone, but with the small shocks being as they are, i have enough trouble thinking of how to rigidly mount them to a wheel hubs, never mind the top strut bearing, which needs to rotate on all three axles. (or at least a proper combination of two)

Id love to do a medium scale MX5 alike, but suspension with the engine in between still eludes me.

[1gor]

4 minutes ago, vectormatic said:

Has anyone managed to make a reasonable McPherson strut in technic? It would be much better for a front engine rear drive car then double wishbone, but with the small shocks being as they are, i have enough trouble thinking of how to rigidly mount them to a wheel hubs, never mind the top strut bearing, which needs to rotate on all three axles. (or at least a proper combination of two)

Id love to do a medium scale MX5 alike, but suspension with the engine in between still eludes me.

Years ago I've made from with those shocks (very good for steering)

http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=48912c01&in=S

image

but I took it apart. After that LEGO made Unimog wheels which would be usefull If you plan to make city car as model, so I agree with your post

[Vectormatic]

10 minutes ago, I_Igor said:

Years ago I've made from with those shocks (very good for steering)

http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=48912c01&in=S

image

but I took it apart. After that LEGO made Unimog wheels which would be usefull If you plan to make city car as model, so I agree with your post

Ah, the shock itself functions as the rotating bit of the top bearing then?

Still leaves you with the attachment of the shock to the wheel hub, and you would need to align the rotational axis of the shock perfectly with the ball joint on the low suspension arm, but its a good step in the right direction.

[1gor]

Just now, vectormatic said:

Ah, the shock itself functions as the rotating bit of the top bearing then?

Still leaves you with the attachment of the shock to the wheel hub, and you would need to align the rotational axis of the shock perfectly with the ball joint on the low suspension arm, but its a good step in the right direction.

Shocks are rotating so you can have lower part on suspensio ant upper on chassis so it is dooable, but I'm currently finishing my Unimog U423 and work on some telehandlers, so I can not make prototyp photos again. There is one more think about this shocks - they have 2 different traveling ways...you'll be surpeized