Lost art of orienting bushings?

[torso]

I have been considering ending my dark age for a while. This week I got myself a 42009 Mobile Crane as an introduction to (and starting a collection of) modern Technic. One thing I noticed was the orientation of the bushings, which is different from what I remember from my old sets (late eighties/early nineties).

Whenever there was a choice, the round end of the bushing would go against the side with rotation. The end with the four teeth would go against the side where rotation was impossible/unwanted. That made me assume the round end has less friction.

The 42009 instructions doesn't seem to care at all about this. The substeps sometimes inconsistent, showing a different orientation from the main steps.

Did the old Technic teach me something that didn't matter? Have the Lego designers just gone lazy? Isn't the bushing asymmetric for a reason?

[timslegos]

When building the 41999 BOSS Crawler, I too had the same question. I wondered if anyone actually followed how the bushings were place in the instructions. I doubt the orientation makes that much of a difference though.

tim

[DrJB]

Did the old Technic teach me something that didn't matter? Have the Lego designers just gone lazy? Isn't the bushing asymmetric for a reason?

I never thought of friction as being the driving factor. One reson the bushing has 4 teeth was so that you can attach it to a technic plate (e.g. 2x4). Though one might argue why not put 4 teeth on both sides ...

[S.I]

So you can put it on top of a technic plate and allow it to still rotate if you want ;)

[Hopey]

Wherever I have the choice, I always put the round end 'outwards', solely for purposes of aesthetics. And there's other little things, like when two of them are adjacent on the same shaft putting the notched ends together, and if they're near crossblocks or pins-with-bush making sure the slots line up. But that's just nitpicking. I wasn't aware of any friction differences.

[Alternator]

When building the 41999 BOSS Crawler, I too had the same question. I wondered if anyone actually followed how the bushings were place in the instructions. I doubt the orientation makes that much of a difference though.

tim

I'm fairly particular to match to the instructions. I go as far to orientate the pins also, as well as spending quite a bit of time trying to fine tune placements on axles to get as smooth a spin as possible.

[weavil]

I'm like torso. Can't shake the old school habbit. But it doesn't matter with the new bushings.

As you can see, the old on the left and the new on the right, there is a ridge.

And on the other side... (old still on left, new still on right)

So we now see the big question. The old is smoother on the rounded side. The ridge just fits into the recess of the beam/lift arm or most anything with a round whole. Yet the new one doesn't look as smooth on either end as the old one.

As for pins: Its all up to the builder. I like to arrange them to be a little more structuraly sound. Like this: \ / \

They will fail with too much load, but at least my mind feels better till it fails. I like to use as many of my older pins because they are thicker.

[maxxens]

In my opinion the newer version has much less friction because of the ring which greatly reduces the surface in contact with other parts.

To topic: I always try to line them up nicely, i.e. if there are two pieces on an axle they should both be lined up the same way rotationwise and both outwards/inwards endingwise.

It annoys me to no end if there are an odd number on one axle so I cannot line them up properly ;)

[allanp]

I don't think that ring on the new one makes any difference to friction as it fits inside the larger diameter of the technic hole and doesn't make any contact with anything. They are good tho because when sliding multiple parts onto an axle, they are not wide enough so the rings help to space the parts out more accurately. As for orientation, I usually try to have the un-notched end against a non-moving part as I feel the notched end may wear non-moving sides faster. I haven't tested it tho.

Edit: Just did a quick measurement, the depth of the ring is about 0.12mm, the depth of the larger diameter of the technic hole is about 0.80mm.

Edited August 22, 2013 by allanp

[PsyKater]

I never even noticed that thing had two different sides

[andythenorth]

Rounded end out - looks better innit.

[chorlton]

We are so OCD

I always use them as per any intructions. If more than one adjacent on an axle then it's crossed ends together if only 2, but all aligned the same way if more than 2. And they should all be oriented with any slots all aligned.

[Technyk32231]

I always align the slot on the side of the bush with the slot on the nearest part with a slot, such as a cross block or angle connector with cross hole. I always have the slots line up on a row of bushes. I noticed that the two ends were different, but never really thought anything of it.

We are so OCD

Yep. But it's CDO, so the letters are in alphabetical order like they should be.:-D Edited August 22, 2013 by Technyk32231

[dr_spock]

We are so OCD

Only if we also line up the "LEGO" on the studs in the same directions.

[maxxens]

There are no studs in studless builds ;)

Yeah, I Know, a few studs are still left on lights etc. :)

[Technyk32231]

There are no studs in studless builds ;)

Yeah, I Know, a few studs are still left on lights etc. :)

And engine cylinders, engine brackets, medium motors, PF plugs, PF LEDs, AAA and rechargeable battery, PF IR remotes and receivers, PF switches, and 1x4 gear racks.:)

[EyesOnly]

I usually put the notched ends towards the opposite bush so as to "clamp" whatever is besides them. Besides having the rounded end outwards just looks better so it disturbs me when newer sets violate this "rule". Hmm i didn't know about that ridge thing. I'll have a look and see how many of those kind i have.

[Junpei]

And engine cylinders, engine brackets, medium motors, PF plugs, PF LEDs, AAA and rechargeable battery, PF IR remotes and receivers, PF switches, and 1x4 gear racks.:)

1x4 gear racks have anti-studs.

Edit: Just did a quick measurement, the depth of the ring is about 0.12mm, the depth of the larger diameter of the technic hole is about 0.80mm.

I think the ring is so the bushing doesn't rub the brick/liftarm, as I have many bricks that are worn down by the old bushes.