Suspension ideas and thoughts for the New 42000 Hubs

[Paul Boratko]

The people that have worked with these new hubs will probably agree that it is safe to say that they are going to be around for a long time... The old styled hubs from the 8466, 8653, 8145, and 8070 are more than likely going to ride off into the sunset as there is a new Sheriff in town... I also wouldn't be surprised if we don't see the steering arms used much(or at all) in the future as well..

These new hubs offer many unique ways to mount them... I can only assume that the way that I have used them in this front suspension module is probably how the B-Model for the 42000 is set up using this piece as the steering pivot point...

By not using the old style towball hubs, you also now have more stability and won't need to reinforce the old steering arms with a liftarm to keep them uniform... The new steering hubs will stay about as stable as the steering arms that you build.... The downfall is that the height has been increased to 5 studs from the previous 3... You could also plug in the old towball pins in the top and bottom and use the traditional steering arms, but with a new parts like this, do you really want to..?

Not as much pivot/steering friction and wobbling anymore like there was with the towballs and steering arms

Another nice thing about the new hubs is that you can choose to make your steering arms shorter if you want and still incorporate All Wheel Drive while staying true... As seen here by eliminating the second CV joint and replacing it with a 3L universal joint, you can change the liftarm to a regular 5L one and you have your pivot point true with the pivot point of the universal joint leaving space in between the shock towers to throw in an engine..

The days of having to stablize the rear hubs with 4 steering links are gone...

I am going to play around tonight with doing something similar in the front, I really wish that Lego would have introdiced some new 5L steering links to replace the old 6L ones...

I have more pictures and angle of these suspension Modules here -> LINK (when moderated at brickshelf)

Edited January 3, 2013 by Paul Boratko

[jorgeopesi]

I love these new pieces, a lot of things to do with them but it seems impossible to make a driving front axle smaller than 23 studs counting wheels .

Edited January 3, 2013 by jorgeopesi

[Boxerlego]

The new hubs look neat. Unlike the portal hubs you have a front and a back on these. Is it just another extension on the CV joint or can you put an axle through these hubs too.

[Paul Boratko]

I love these new pieces, a lot of things to do with them but it seems impossible to make a driving front axle smaller than 23 studs counting wheels .

Yeah, unfortunately these new hubs are the same exact dimensions as the Old Black hubs... 23 from end to end is the shortest true "stable" diameter that you could get using them and the CV Joints, I guess it may be possible that you could monkey around and re-route the differential and possibly make it smaller...

The new hubs look neat. Unlike the portal hubs you have a front and a back on these. Is it just another extension on the CV joint or can you put an axle through these hubs too.

That is another good point... That is definitely something that you could not do with the old ones... These new ones also feel more natural and solid... I haven't tried yet, but I am assuming that separating them must be done like this once again...

[dhc6twinotter]

Thanks for posting this, Paul. Is the steering angle with a CV installed any better than the old hubs?

I would love it if LEGO offered a 5L link and 9L steering rack!

[allanp]

I like that the size has increased, it makes a more stable joint and more in scale with most, if not all models that use them. I've been playing around using the rear ones for making all kinds of steering geometries, I can confirm that after years of those aweful and very limiting hubs we used to have, these are an absolute joy to work with.

[Paul Boratko]

Thanks for posting this, Paul. Is the steering angle with a CV installed any better than the old hubs?

I would love it if LEGO offered a 5L link and 9L steering rack!

I think it's about the same...

[jorgeopesi]

With a 1/2 stud shorter joint we could gain 2 studs in an axle but we don´t cut pieces sometimes it is hard to be purist .

[Boxerlego]

That is another good point... That is definitely something that you could not do with the old ones... These new ones also feel more natural and solid... I haven't tried yet, but I am assuming that separating them must be done like this once again...

Wow that is awesome! The new wheel hubs that are on the back have the possibility to be a solid axle when you swap the dark grey part with the one on the portal hubs. This is Really great for a rally truck.

[Paul Boratko]

The Dark Gray Center Hub on the 8110/9398 Portal Axles is same exact part as these new center hubs...

What I meant by "The old ones" was the black hubs from the 8070 Supercar...

Edited January 4, 2013 by Paul Boratko

[SNIPE]

I still cannot seem to get much steering angle with them without the wheels either being toed in/out or having too much play in the points for the arms and steering rack.

I can't seem to find a way to add suspention to them while having a lot of travel from the wishbones either, why oh why wont lego do something about this

The idea I had was to use an arm that links the outer wishbone pivot point to a spring box mounted alternate to the holes of the wishbones

so when the wheel moves it hinges the arm up that rotates the tortion spring in the spring box.

Edited January 4, 2013 by SNIPE

[Paul Boratko]

Here is another front drive suspension with 5L liftarms used as steering arms...

Using 3L universal joints instead of CV joints with 7 studs between the shock towers...

Max turning angle before the CV Joints begin to bind...

[Lipko]

You can decrease the turning radius if you apply Ackermann steering and move the differential forward a bit (half stud, maybe a whole?)

I like the new hubs, I hope I can get my hands on the 42000 set soon, but I think the more specialized suspension arm feels neater. A custom one can perform better, but somehow it feels a bit stepping back in technology. So new hub+old arms for me, unless I want something tough.

Edited January 4, 2013 by Lipko

[Meatman]

Thanks Paul, this is a great preview of what is to come. Very nice designs.

[Timoonn]

These new pieces seem to sign the end of the following elements:/

Edited January 5, 2013 by Timoonn

[jorgeopesi]

The first one may be the second one not at all... you can use it with the new piece.

Edited January 5, 2013 by jorgeopesi

[Crtlego]

Nice job Paul with the designs you presented - I really like where this is going

The first one may be the second one not at all... you can use it with the new piece.

I think you and I are thinking the same thing.. using towball pins to connect the new hub to the old steering arm? Would anybody with the new piece like to play around with this? It should certainly be feasible, but I do not know how it will fair stability-wise when compared with the designs Paul has built that use four liftarms.

[Zerobricks]

The 6L steering arm should still be usefull because it has less friction than the joints Paul used, and it allows for more complex front suspension (with camber, caster, etc...)

[allanp]

Yes I have played around with this and they work fine. It's less bulky than crowkillers suggestions however there is also a bit of play in the pre-existing ball joint parts whereas crowkillers suggestions are held more firmly but not enough to restrict movement. On the whole I prefere his suggestions, but for creating weird and wonderful geometries that really do need a ball joint it's very nice to know that the old 6L arms still works fine, better than the old hubs, due to their increased size the effect of the play in the ball and socket is less than it was in the old hubs.

[jantjeuh]

I'm afraid the 42000 won't be on sale in the Netherlands for a while yet, so I hope these new hub parts pop up on Bricklink soon!

[Paul Boratko]

Ok, I built a new suspension using the 6L steering arms(along with the towball pins) last night and after using the New 5L thin liftarms for structure in both the base and one on each end(along with one standard 5 hole liftarm for the 3L axle with stop to properly fit into), I must say that it works surprisingly well, but of course everything has to be built solid... Otherwise there is more of a "Twist" with the towball joints due to more of a space between the steering arms as opposed to the older hubs...

The 6L steering arm should still be usefull because it has less friction than the joints Paul used, and it allows for more complex front suspension (with camber, caster, etc...)

I agree that they will still be useful, I am just questioning whether or not Lego will continue to produce it... I think I may actually use this design below in my next project...

Edited January 6, 2013 by Paul Boratko

[Meatman]

I like how compact that last suspension module is. That is slick using the bottom arm working against the top one with the shock. Really good design.

Edited January 5, 2013 by Meatman

[jorgeopesi]

Paul stop posting that pics... I haven´t got and I want them now... .

[skyliner]

Lego Technic Racers 42000 - Steering Set - Grand Prix F1

have just listed two sets of steering parts.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190780341222?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649

[Hopey]

Lego Technic Racers 42000 - Steering Set - Grand Prix F1

have just listed two sets of steering parts.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190780341222?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649

At £68.99, why bother. For another £11, you can but the whole set get a further 1000 or so other parts and a pretty box.