Aerolight

melting and fusing Lego

Recommended Posts

A while ago I built 6x6 tuck that used worm gears in the axles, and while climbing a steep ramp the whole drivetrain (2 xl motors) locked and would not move forward or back. When I took it apart I found a half stud axle spacer was fused into a 5x7 frame by the worm gear that was behind it( pushing into it). It took a pair of pliers to remove it leaving a frame with little marks while the spacer had lost about a third of its total length.

Since this a few years ago I had not encountered melting Lego due to friction (although I have done it via other means..) until.

I just finished my highest revving vacuum engine ever (by far the highest revving I have ever seen and part of my 5 world record project(coming soon)). And after revving it up and down a few times I decided to stress test it at max power to check if any part needed improvement, after less than 10 seconds of continuous max power on the vacuum the revs dropped significantly. Took me a few minutes to find the cause, one of the pistons had melted at the edges causing it to grind against the barrel; it had just cooked a piston!

So I was wondering if anyone else had experiences friction melting Lego?  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

As a child I tried to create a functional Schienenzeppelin (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schienenzeppelin) using https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=2740c01#T=C, and several 4x5 9V technic motors. It went beautifully along a stretch of straight track once, but when I tried a second time I found the propeller had melted part of the 1x4 technic beam that held it. 

Edited by J159753

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've also done som testing with that prop. I melted one trying to gear it up and power it with a buggy motor for a hover craft. It did not work very well, but moved a little bit before the revs suddenly dropped. The prop was a complete loss, and is quite hard to come by... I did however find out it is threaded when I tried to get i loose and that it is possible to remove the 24 tooth gear to replace the 1x4 studded beam, and this has proven invaluable in experiments with propeller propulsion tests. It is by far the best prop Lego has ever made, and being able to dismantle it at replace the studded beam opens up a lot of possibilities. I have not melted any more of them though. I took too reason and placed some omni wheels below the hovercraft, and any other propeller powered experiment since... :)

_ED_

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wrecked a fair pile of beams axles and gears when I was a kid by building a large scale model of my dads microlight. I just built the trike part at a scale using the big technic wheels, added the radio gear from a Tamiya car and powered it with a large plastic propellor and a 540 motor. The prop was geared down and it very quickly started using the axles as spools for polymer string melted out of the beams. It was a brief but glorious model.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Epic! I had Tamiya cars and loads of Technic back in the 80's but i never did something as cool as that. All I managed to do was a to make a LEGO chassis for a my lowly Nikko Panther (?)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I lubed it with margarine and got another 30 seconds of runtime out of it but ultimately it destroyed itself after a couple of passes down our driveway.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, MinusAndy said:

I lubed it with margarine and got another 30 seconds of runtime out of it but ultimately it destroyed itself after a couple of passes down our driveway.

That sounds like a nice, cheap lube! Maybe I'll use it someday on my hobby-powered models.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I’ve never had any parts fuse themselves together besides some old polycarbonate plates, but there are some “problem areas” in certain sets that lead to parts breaking. There are two DBG 13L beams in the bottom of the Arocs chassis that snapped in the same place after it fell off my shelf. The unreleased Osprey apparently chews through gears as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, TechnicRCRacer said:

The unreleased Osprey apparently chews through gears as well

Oh come on! This was not the reason! It was "not" released because of a dozen of folks protesting in Germany! :pir-huzzah2::sarcasm:

On 5/8/2021 at 6:13 PM, MinusAndy said:

I lubed it with margarine and got another 30 seconds of runtime out of it but ultimately it destroyed itself after a couple of passes down our driveway.

Hee hee. Nice one!

Well I may be wrong here, but I believe these are the reasons that they don't make internal combustion engines from ABS anymore. They switched to metal some years ago. Same with breaks and axles and differentials and so on. :pir-huzzah2:

Best
Thorsten 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Toastie said:

Oh come on! This was not the reason! It was "not" released because of a dozen of folks protesting in Germany! :pir-huzzah2::sarcasm:

Hee hee. Nice one!

Well I may be wrong here, but I believe these are the reasons that they don't make internal combustion engines from ABS anymore. They switched to metal some years ago. Same with breaks and axles and differentials and so on. :pir-huzzah2:

Best
Thorsten 

Speaking of plastic engines, I remember reading this article recently about testing plastic pistons in a real engine. It doesn't go well...

https://www.roadandtrack.com/news/a36317881/plastic-pistons-test/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.