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About Aerolight

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  1. Aerolight

    Swapping Lego motors 50X power?

    Finally installed the new motors, the thing you notice most is the 5 kilos of force required to separate the motors from each other when aliened . The installation was easy only requiring a little cutting due to different terminal position. But I still don't have a buwizz and the Lego rechargeable brick does not have enough power to even start 1 lol though It does become easier to start by hand (the problem with powerful magnets)
  2. I was also wondering what lipo was being used to get 11.2v output 3s? Looking at rc plane battery's this output is on the low end - plenty on a reputable sight are the same capacity 2300mah (and dimensional size to fit in buwizz)and is rated at 20c or 40amps of discharge with some as high as 70amps from only a 2200mah pack. They do go bad regularly but for the sake of £10 (the 2200mah pack with 70amp discharge 3s) its worth the low weight over a larger pack even in rc cars. So in a buwizz these packs would be far more reliable due to the lower amps.
  3. Aerolight

    Swapping Lego motors 50X power?

    The 25 watts of (theoretical) output come from: The motor manufactures data of; max efficiency (69 percent) 8.4v at 4.5amps is 24 watts of mechanical output, max power 8.4v at 15 amps is 48 watts of mechanical output. Buwizz 3.0 has a sustained output of 4 amps at 11.2 volts (20 watts would be conservative given the given pervious ratings) and a peak output of 6 amps at 11.2 volts (25+ watts of peak power I would guess) Buwizz 3.0 is a monster (from their website) each power functions channel has a continuous electrical power output of 48 watts (peak 60) while the total output for 1 brick is rated at over 100watts
  4. Aerolight

    Swapping Lego motors 50X power?

    Small update, The motors have arrived (neodymium magnets go clonk and real ball bearings go burrr) and my Buwizz 3.0 should come in a week or two. The Buwizz 3.0 is more powerful than I thought and with these motors ,according to the data sheets of the two, an sustained output of 25 watts and a peak of over 30 whatts! from a single m size motor. For perspective a original rc motor at 10.5v (Buwizz ludicrous mode is 11.2) gets only 6.1 watts of power output, and a stock m motor on standard Lego electronics only puts out just over 1 watt, 25 times power is realistic!!!! All that's left is to solder the new motors in and wait for the Buwizz, although I do hope swapping the main shaft gear from the original m motor to the new will be as easy as prying it off and a bit of lock tight. (could always bypass the planetary gears altogether I guess) I have already got the parts to build something rather special so I hope it works...
  5. Aerolight

    largest drivers on Lego track

    I just finished modelling the wheels and am settling (at least for the moment) on a 4 drivers config with ~43mm diameter (will finalise one I can put my micrometre on the OG wheels), with only one change the the geometry other than diameter; I made the drive pin hole a drive cross hole (for easier 90 degree link) and made it only as deep as the outer wheel, 7.25mm. This should make it run smother especially with suspension. The larger wheels also mean I can use a different type of suspension, for 30mm wheels I use a linkage system that stretches a rubber lift arm but it takes up one stud of space above the axle line, is hard to drive internally and is to soft for how large and heavy this train is going to be. But the larger wheels mean I can use a 'realistic' sliding block system that compresses the rubber lift arm instead and is only one stud thick on each side leaving room inside the frame for the crank for the third cylinder and gearing to a motor. The last problem is how to connect the motor to the front axle, with only 2 axles the rear has the crank for the middle cylinder so it must be connected to the front, and since the middle cylinder is in the way of it going toward the back the drive must come out the front on the front axle then up and over the pistons to the motor (easiest solution is to not have the middle cylinder driven in the first place as you wont be able to see it unless u turn it upside down). So still some things to think about.
  6. Aerolight

    largest drivers on Lego track

    I never knew that the large flange was for points the more you know, I am going to try to 3d print the largest I can with a narrow vertical flange with this I should be able to get the size I would like (>40mm) to not bind on curves (but I don't know if the large diameter will just cause the loco to ride over the rails regardless). Due to the large flange size f-b-f is required for correct spacing. As for sliding axles the engines frame is locked at 4 wide due to conjugated valve gear and suspension. One of the reasons aside form scale for the large wheels is to get the piston above the leading truck not exactly scale but locks far less derpy on tight Lego track. I am away for my printer and Lego for a while yet so have plenty of time to think on it as the best result possible would be a flange that allows enough space for moving brakes, which I have done before but will fully print this time if there is space. I didn't want to post before its finished but if your curious it currently has fully working valve gear, just not conjugated yet (although I have designed it already just need to print), controlled by a separate motor. Unlike my previous attempts this is fully printed with realistic geometry, 9 wide and only peaks 1 stud higher than the Lego drivers (scale).
  7. Aerolight

    largest drivers on Lego track

    What is the largest wheel that can be run on Lego track in a 6 driver layout? and has anyone tried making drivers with a smaller flange further from the track as this should allow for larger wheels (like real trains put a gap between the flange and the track when on a straight, as with Lego drivers the axle can move only a little left or right when on a straight and locks up entirely when on a turn).
  8. Aerolight

    [RUMORS] 6x6 Mercedes Zetros

    Finally found the pic, Looks like a mock trial truck so already better than all previous RC trucks and should run much better due the the smaller size/weight. A few thing make me wonder; the high price might be due to 3xl motors for drive and the front axle seams static due to tire clearance but the rears seem to not be double wishbone (the frame structure is wrong and the is a large gap above the whole axle, could just be bad picture though) I would say sprung pendular. However as I think u can see though the whole model at the rear axles it does make me wonder if there is something else going on with the rear suspension like live or bougie systems but I doubt it.
  9. I know that people have tried this a few times before (with some success). And out of all the methods the only only I considered was a straight swap (same size higher quality motor) but I struggled to find any aside from some used in mini 4w4. Then some time ago someone suggested to use aftermarket foam dart gun motors, though I think most discounted this as they are 130 size motors which are used in the m motors, I mean how powerful can they really be... Well after checking the ratings of these motors I was amazed to find that their max peak output is FIFTY WATTS that's approx. FIFTY times what a m motor puts out and 20-30 times a xl motor WOW. Now before u go and buy out all the stock to build a plane, they put out their peak power at 15 Amps and IR receives max out at about 1 amp, so their actual power on Lego electronics would be conservatively an xl motor (2 watts) (due to efficiency losses but could be more like 2 xl motors but I don't have the curves for the motors to check this) Although those with a BUWIZZ could expect to see around 10-15 watts (5-7 times an xl motor). In concussion, maybe, but to get the full 50 times power you would have to home make a full power system (easy but illegal rip) and I doubt that the m motors planetary gears could take it. On the topic of said gears I don't know how much faster the output would spin (if impractical to reduce). And remember it is often easy to fit 2 m motors than it is to fit 1 xl motor (btw the same motor is used in the m powered up motor). I will probably order one just for the fun of it, <£10, shipping will take a month or two tho .
  10. Over the last few months I've been working on something new with pneumatics (still a few weeks away though), and while dissecting cylinders I came across the stroke quirk. The small cylinders don't have a stroke of 2 studs but slightly less, this is why the good pneumatic engines use connecting rods - the extra pin connections add just enough slack to allow a 1 stud crank to spin relatively freely. This has been known since they first came out. A similar problem occurred with the original small pump and later Lego released a new style pump that did not have this problem (it did like to crack through) as is was longer. You may have noticed these later pumps look very similar to a power cylinder just missing the top port and adding a one way valve. Well when measuring the inner depth of these pumps, we find they are longer than the stroke plus piston. Infract the inner wall is the exact length to allow a power piston with its top seal(pumps don't have this witch is why they do not take up the entire length) to travel 16mm (2 studs). From this we can say that lego once planed to make a new small cylinder with a slightly changed pump frame (only structure change is adding a to air port). The only new element would be a slightly longer piston rod/connector, but at some point they decided against it. However if someone wished two they could make a new piston rod and make a new improved cylinder out of a pump, although removing the one way valve is a bit tricky you can always count on Mr drill. The added internal length of the pumps also allow to make something a bit more interesting if u are so inclined....
  11. Aerolight

    technic L gauge with fully working valvegear

    Finally I can give an update, restrictions have lessened so back to lego next week. On the boring side I think the best way to have the front wheels is to have 2 on a very long link, looks a bit derpy but works. However after seeing someone make a pneumatic engine with a new type of valve, I'm going to take one last shot at pneumatics. This new valve works by kinking lego hose and requires barely any force to operate; compared to lego switches at least. If it ends up still being too much for the realistic valve gear to operate then I've got an idea, I can drive the valve links via the cylinders directly rather than from the wheel at the end of the array; which incurs a lot of slack. Hopefully the next update will have a video with a healthy chuffing sound, if not then finally a video of the dancing valve gear.
  12. This might work with some light modifications (allowing the actuator to extend to go though its full range would make it effectively stronger anyway though). Not Sure how to get the elbow perfectly stiff and the eyelets ideally should not have friction but here is the basic concept. lego cam actuator by michael waterfield, on Flickr
  13. If you want it to work at any height with the same range the only way would be a camming system, possible but would defiantly take more space.
  14. Sorry I should have made it digitally from the beginning - this should work without having to move the actuator (you may not be able to gat away with using the caped axles however) lego adjustable suspension link by michael waterfield, on Flickr
  15. When the links are at 180 degrees the actuator cant move them, at 90 degreases however the force from the actuator is maximised. Due to the force direction you might be able to get away with moving the links back one and use a axle with 2 90 Degree connectors and a half stud shim to make the 2.5 stud link length you need. (while the links would only be held together with friction only a downward force on the wheels would cause them to pull apart). If we could see more pictures there might be a way of simply moving the suspension connection pin out 0.5 studs.