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About Aerolight

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    lego gas engine

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  1. Bad weather so indoor filming only - no plane This engine has floating flap valves which allow for the best seal (as far as Lego is concerned). The blocks the flaps pivots in are free to move forward and back, this allows the flap to sit flush against the cylinder when closed. The inlet valve sits in side of each cylinder while the exhaust is external (the one your see oscillating in the video) so the pressure keeps the valves closed. No modified parts and all legal connections (I think at least) I don't have enough rubber bands (close valves) so had to steal some from other MOCs.
  2. It is a hypothetical tank - although I think I read somewhere that an semi/autoloader was going to be considered for serial production so the loader could be dropped to account for the lack of internal space. I think the real tank did have a small bustle arrangement for a small number of projectiles to help with fast loading - why some people say it has a semi automatic loader but its just a small assistance feature.
  3. That is how the rounds are fed ; selected from the carousel by arm lifted behind the breach by arm rigid chain rams the round into battery and the breach closes carousel is then rotated to next round arm goes back down to collect next round (this also fires the round in the barrel) the breach is then opened ejecting the spent case Sorry if the clips where confusing I should have taken more angles.
  4. Finally after lots of procrastination my second video and as promised the object 279 - which coincidently has just been returned to running condition IRL. No talk through this time, so probably requires some expiation; The tank struggles to turn on grass - the whole frame twists and the track will skip on the sprockets The only modified pieces are; the rounds are cutdown, the gear tracks in the rigid chain round pusher have cut corners to allow for a hinge and 2 beams have a slit to allow for a 24 tooth gear (track drive) This might be one of most realistic carousel autoloader in the world as the rounds are fired by the springs in the cases. The autocannon could use a slope to trigger the rounds but is less accurate than a separate movement strait up - also easy recoil mechanism As the round pickup arm pivots at the same point as the barrel, when off the tank the carousel autoloader can load and fire at over 90 degrees of depression The plane will probably be the next but I just finished the most realistic Lego manual gearbox ever - with multiple width custom gears, correct engagement, pedal operated realistic clutch and transmission brake (5+r).
  5. Just finished my 3d printed realistic gearbox and I had to use a 3 stud gap between shafts to get a truly realistic gearbox - just the gear stack is 8 studs tall by 5 studs wide by 13 studs long so just to big for one of these supercars. A slightly more realistic one should be reasonable though - odd and even gears separate like real double clutch boxes
  6. They are for more speed not torque - the current red gear can take huge amounts of torque but at high rpm the mesh shape causes precise wear on the outside edge of the frame hole (spur gear). With this new mesh the force will be spread over more area allowing for more speed without requiring metal inserts (ask me how I know). I think this does indicate a new RC but not a groundbreaking one - just one that can fly a little closer to the sun. Using this new gear will reduce peak torque though due to the lower ratio.
  7. same hubs same gearbox best thing appears to be the BMW motorcycle shocks and general design
  8. The problem is when you gear them up there is so much lateral force on the axle that is melts in seconds - really. My buggy is direct drive and does 20kph (I would guess no GPS and its super hard to keep straight) but it can drift on tarmac lol. In my plane they are geared up but use extra gears to help take the load (pics soon) The planetary gears seem to be unworn so far; even those in the motors somehow. But the cv joints do have some erosion but it is only surface level and the truck has been driven for about 2 hours total. I think the planetary gears will only fail if dirt gets in them so avoid water and I used duck tape to cover the underside.
  9. Defiantly but the place I got them from originally has closed due to import problems and it does require careful grinding down the center shaft, although apart from that and moving the gear from the old motor it is practically drag and drop (and soldering)!
  10. The pins are 3l 2pin 1 axle with the axle cut off. Without the extra reduction the diff gear would skip but mainly the cv joints would combust under the torque - these motors are monsters the axles after the planetary hubs are all twisted, and on my direct drive buggy they can shear axles directly. The motors are the best they retain the Lego case and internal planetary reduction but the motor itself has been replaced with a rare earth magnet hand wound super motor. These motors require buwizz 3.0 to even turn over and even it can only provide half of its rated current (2 motors on 1 hub causes overload protection) (although bad Lego wires are probably at their limit anyway). Motors peak at over 20 watts from a buwizz 3.0 - Lego motors are about 1 watt. (much more power than rc motors even in a far smaller package) I will show how they are made once I get some more motors - I only have 2 and switch them between MOCS. They should be enough for me to claim the first true flying Lego plane. And the cost of all this... £3.50 PER MOTOR Lego is such a scam lol The only difficult part is removing the gear from the old motor - to do this i had to use a lathe but should be possible with a hammer. The springs just stop the axles from coming out due to the rpm And yeh I do suck at aesthetics
  11. Finally finished my big truck (100-1 axles) and while I tried to be careful to not go full speed for to long I still managed to melt the rear cv axle almost all the way through a 5x7 frame. So finally I drilled out the frame hole to fit an inner sleave made of stainless steel (glued to the cv) and a outer sleave made of brass to the frame, and know it works perfectly I just need to make the modification the to front cv now.
  12. Thanks, the chain was originally made for my second attempt at a live gas engine (cam chain) still yet to test; to nice to melt. I find the problem with the small Lego chain is that it does not run very smoothly but this might just be due to mine being old.
  13. Finally I have made my first video, hopefully the first of many. I explain a good deal in the video but I left some things out like how many pieces are modified - can you spot all of them. I know you cant wait to see the plane and tank in action, I cant wait to answer your questions. The old buggy is the only official set I have together.
  14. I would like to think now is when we will get the last pieces we need for a realistic sequential as there are not many parts left; 2 new clutches with gear teeth (different gear sizes) 3L 2 or 3 new gears with clutch and 2 or 3 without, possible new teeth count to keep the size for clutch engagement if the size is to be kept down wave cam with 2 waves and 1/8 engagement (if you put the cam peak at 22.5 degrees from axle cross you get 8 possible positions allowing for 7 speeds and a neutral Although it might use a larger gear size altogether, 2 studs between the gear shafts would allow for larger ratio changes. As most of the new parts would be the gears it might not use any, it could use the same existing ratio for separate gears allowing for realistic operation without all the new elements required. Only 2 new elements would be required which Lego would like and I care more about the operation than a ratio change in a static model anyway.