Aerolight

Eurobricks Vassals
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  1. Aerolight

    technic L gauge with fully working valvegear

    Finally I can give an update, restrictions have lessened so back to lego next week. On the boring side I think the best way to have the front wheels is to have 2 on a very long link, looks a bit derpy but works. However after seeing someone make a pneumatic engine with a new type of valve, I'm going to take one last shot at pneumatics. This new valve works by kinking lego hose and requires barely any force to operate; compared to lego switches at least. If it ends up still being too much for the realistic valve gear to operate then I've got an idea, I can drive the valve links via the cylinders directly rather than from the wheel at the end of the array; which incurs a lot of slack. Hopefully the next update will have a video with a healthy chuffing sound, if not then finally a video of the dancing valve gear.
  2. This might work with some light modifications (allowing the actuator to extend to go though its full range would make it effectively stronger anyway though). Not Sure how to get the elbow perfectly stiff and the eyelets ideally should not have friction but here is the basic concept. lego cam actuator by michael waterfield, on Flickr
  3. If you want it to work at any height with the same range the only way would be a camming system, possible but would defiantly take more space.
  4. Sorry I should have made it digitally from the beginning - this should work without having to move the actuator (you may not be able to gat away with using the caped axles however) lego adjustable suspension link by michael waterfield, on Flickr
  5. When the links are at 180 degrees the actuator cant move them, at 90 degreases however the force from the actuator is maximised. Due to the force direction you might be able to get away with moving the links back one and use a axle with 2 90 Degree connectors and a half stud shim to make the 2.5 stud link length you need. (while the links would only be held together with friction only a downward force on the wheels would cause them to pull apart). If we could see more pictures there might be a way of simply moving the suspension connection pin out 0.5 studs.
  6. if you move the links back toward the (gear end of the) actuator 1 stud, so the links are at 90 degrees to it when at its shortest there will be almost no force transferred to the actuator when the suspension is compressed.
  7. Aerolight

    42113 Bell Boeing V-22 Osprey

    You can have more than 2 drives through a turntable, in applications like this. Instead of rotation you can use rods that move in and out easily allowing for 3 (or more) inputs as the blades have limited movement so don't require an unlimited movement or you can use hydraulics, both for added realism and size as the rod method requires a fair amount of length past the turntable to take drive off of although the bulk of the movement can be inside of the Pilon. The main problem is the size of the swatch plate being far to big as I think the only piece suitable is a large turntable. Its also important to recognise while the osprey is a very complex airframe is has among the best survivability rates of any helicopter.
  8. A few year ago I made a similar, albeit only 2 speed gearbox. And encountered the same problem, after a few failed attempts my solution was to temporarily in gauge both speeds at once when shifting. As the force increased the lower speed would engage and only when it was fully engaged would the high speed disengage, it still took some finagling but eventually it would shift smooth every time (the main aid was slack in the spring that meant the gearbox required more force to shift up than down. In order to allow both gears to be engaged it needed a clutch ring per gear instead of one engaging with both, but if the ordering of this gearbox had speeds 1 and 3 on one clutch and 2 and 4 on the other it would not need extra clutches (like a duel clutch (which I guess this technically is)). Indexing the shifting would be annoying... but cool to watch neutral brake duel clutch shifting.
  9. Aerolight

    Technic 2020 Set Discussion

    Lamborghini just announced a new car will be revealed 7 of may might be joined by the Sian model as this is the fist major reveal by them since the Sian.
  10. Greetings train forum, I mainly frequent the technic forum but thought this might be a better fit here, due to something I am stuck away from my Lego (at my grand parents) for a while so no pics or updates for a while but was feeling down and though some of you might appreciate the ensuing wall of text that would annoy the technic goers not end. First I wanted to have a realistically working pneumatic train (I like to think we have all liked to believe such a thing could work at some point), while as you can imagine the pneumatic switches where, even after modifying, just too stiff to work smoothly at all let alone with all the links I was driving them through. But for this I first built a valve gear using a sliding block design (idk what you would call the system as it did not use a 90 drive (too week and too wide) off the wheels but used a different link system to account for it). While this system worked it was too big both in height and width (4 wide each side and about 10 studs off the tracks). But then I remembered baker valve gear, at first I had discounted it as it is more complex; but in Lego form while still more complex its far smaller EVEN SCALE for a larger shunter. However I did have to cut down most of the beams for it as it used strange half stud pieces i.e. 3 studs half thick with a cross at one end and a pin at the other. So then I mounted it in my train chassis and mounted the servo that controls it(I'm using power functions so servo had to be gear down twice to reduce the movement to +- 35 degrees-ish and insure neutral was completely level). This first prototype had the baker part of the gear outside the wheels and was 10 wide (the baker system requires a minimum of 4 rods to over lap so with half stud beams 2 studs either side) and a 10 wide expansion joint. This first prototype worked perfectly, as you increased the speed of the loco the servo would actuate the control link and the valve would open more and more to a maximum just over that of scale valve movement. It worked in both directions with no clicking clucking or increase in friction and looked amazing while doing so I think it might have been a first in Lego but even in the model space I know of few that have realistic working RC valve gear. The only problem was that due to the loco moving at the lowest increments on the speed controller the servo would move so little that combined with the slack in the links the valve movement at slow speeds is negligible. Next I moved the baker on top of the wheels allowing for it to be 8 wide at that point whilst not being any higher (I spaced the drive wheels out 1 stud to give clearance and also deleted the suspension (technic rubber 1x2s) for space) but I could only reduce the expansion link to 9 studs as it still has to be above the connecting rod and cylinder drive rod. This current version (not including the motors as they are central and can be easily covered) is 9 studs wide and about 6 studs high from the track (sorry memory) and drives great with a 4 wheel bogie at the back underneath the drive motor (L) and a tender holding the battery. But I don't know how to add a front bogie, I tried to raise the pistons to give space but it looked strange and if I have to move the pistons further out it would be 10 studs wide which also looks strange. Hopefully a easily solution will come to mind next time I see it but until then this is where the MOC currently stands; fully driving but no front bogie or coupling, no body (that comes last right?) and valve gear only on one side (I wanted to make sure it was finalised before I cut any more pieces. Along with simply finishing it in its current form I hope to rebuild it with control+, along with being more controllable, allowing me to fix the issue of pulling away in neutral, the servo is smaller and will not require extra reduction. This would give me the space for a cab with perhaps a moving leaver (sorry forget name) tied to the servo. Again sorry for the lack of pictures and poor explanations, but I will try to answer any questions.
  11. Aerolight

    Technic 2020 Set Discussion

    Quite the opposite Lego's booth (one of if not the biggest there) was huge they had most of the sets they currently produce - they had every single technic set, just nothing new.
  12. Aerolight

    Technic 2020 Set Discussion

    just saw a video of the lego booth at toy fair, no new technic but is only first day.
  13. Aerolight

    Technic 2020 Set Discussion

    there is also a "printer" in the ideas book that uses the same system but with chain in a loop, works surprisingly well
  14. Aerolight

    42114 - 6x6 Volvo Articulated Hauler

    The bed is too big causing the cab to be bigger to balance it - reduce both and it would improve a lot. The only reason I can think the bed is so out of scale is to hold something but idk what that could be. Still look forward to the use of this a base for the next-gen artillery system used by Sweden(which also has a crew cab configuration). Or under the bed might be all the electronics causing the bed to just sit out of scale height, but the bed looks to protrude far past the wheels anyway.
  15. Aerolight

    42115 - Lamborghini Sian FKP 37

    same here but the countaches roof dip does not continue to the front - the mirrors are closer to scale for the contach but still too large. But the sides of the front bumper are straight from a us spec late model countach but this might just be to the use of lego. The sian is to the next gen lambo what the revinton was to the aventador so it might be the next gen main v12 from lambo which will take a lot of design ques from the sian (and the countach) hence the slight differences.