ukbajadave

Spot on! The surfboard from 60011 is also present. Cheers

Yep, its mostly Lego City from the last 15 years but I'm certain there's some 70s or 80s stuff in there too (and a whole lot of sweet wrappers, beads and megablocks!)

Nope, its just a giant mixed box of stuff! @Aurore Nailed it!! I wonder if the shark was two poly bags put together.

Evening all, I'm sorting through a big box of old Lego and a couple of bits don't seem familiar. Any help gratefully received Some kind of creator style shark, perhaps a poly bag? Another creature, this time a crab or spider? Last but not least this legless guy and his enormous weapon. Bigger pics should be available on bricksafe LINK HERE Cheers

This is correct, however Powered Up app on my Samsung galaxy requires high accuracy setting to be turned on in addition.

But pins (with or without friction) won't allow you to pull the two box sections apart so that they can rotate?

Here is a floating pin idea. Once the rods are in place they can be locked in with bricks. There is enough slack to hinge the sides and minimal protrusion. As long as this is the bottom row you can make the boxes taller as you need. I originally tried the Pin with bar shown in this photo but as the bar is always central in one of the beam holes there was not enough movement. Also once the chess board is opened a plate across the gap would add some security. Thanks for giving me a fun exercise to occupy my mind

Heres what I achieved after work today Please excuse the crudity of this model, I didn't have time to build it to scale or to paint it... 2L technic beam at bottom pivot point. Very little protrusion underneath. And very tidy once folded. So I extended it to two hinges. This is where it went wrong. Once built up to the level of the beams the hinge became very stiff. Next attempt, a longer beam with the pivot moved inside the box. Same problem with the edge of the boxes catching It seems to me that the pivot wants to be as close to the bottom as possible but this means any hinge stands proud. Moving the hinge inside always leads to one edge catching when rotated. Perhaps what is needed is a floating axle which could sit towards the centre and allow the halves to be pulled apart slightly before folding. I'm thinking even a rod inside a beam hole would allow enough movement?

A potential problem with using the hinge brick and SNOT may be that when the board is open (brick in 2x2 form) the hinge mould extends past the brick edge meaning the chess board will not sit level. This has piqued my interest so I may have a play with stud.io and see what I can come up with, make sure to keep this thread updated with your solution Apologies for not being clearer, the brick allows 180°, I can think of no plate which does. My first thought was simply a plate hinge with two more plates on top to replace a brick.

How big does the chess board need to be? I'm assuming SNOT techniques are no use as you want studs on the board to affix pieces? I'd be looking to use 3 technic beams with the pins parallel to the board in a U shape. No hinge plate I can think of allows 180°

Part 3831 and 3830 any good?

I'm making the leap from PF to PU so it looks like a bit of a learning curve ahead for me

If I want to use the hub and motors from 42099 for a MOC I need the "powered up" app not "control+" right?

I think this should be allowed to enter, it has all the functionality I would expect at this scale A very cute little build which doesn't require any rare parts, I shall be building this one myself. Thanks for the instructions

Daughter wanted an electronic drum kit for Christmas because "She likes to hit things!" We now have a shiny new drum kit that I rather fancy have a go on myself. Can anyone recommend a youtube learn to drum channel? It need to go right back to basics for me like how to hold the sticks and proper placement of the kit etc.. Any advice gratefully received