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Here's my latest creation, and yes it's another sports car. Yay! I wanted to have another go at building a small RC Sports Car, but this time loosely based around a 2009 corvette. This car is wide and low so I was expecting it to be a challenge. I also wanted to use some of the ideas from my other models, such as the L motor setup in the Mini Truck. Features - 2x L motors at 1:3 - 1x Servo - functional doors, boot & hood - battery access under dashboard - working front lights - 36Lx17Wx10H (chassis, in studs) - 804g Like the mini truck, the two L motors make this car move! The extra width seems to give it some extra traction as well. Design wise it isn't perfect, but I did the best with what I had available. Hope you like it. EDIT: Video is up!

The Aston Martin RB 001, is a Hyper-car designed in partnership with Red Bull racing and Aston Martin. The performance figures have not even been set in stone yet, but claims are being made that it will lay down LMP1 lap times, and sport a V12 in the middle of this beauty of engineering. also expected is a Track only version which will push it even further, F1 times being the targets for that version. weather it lives up to the hype or not there is no denying that beauty of it's styling. (photo of the car: http://blog.caranddr...03-876x535.jpg) this Lego version is just as sleek and impressive as the real thing. and an extreme amount of care went into this model both replicating as many features as possible and the spirit of the vehicle. i spent several days refining the lines and adjusting almost every part of the car to include as many of the vents, ducts, and other extreme body work details as i could fit in a 6wide+ car. and at a mere 16 studs long and 3.33 bricks tall it is one of my smallest city scale cars to date. but that's not what you are here for you want to see the car so lets get to it! So from this angle you can see just how sleek it is, very few breaks on body line, and everything swoops back in attempt to follow the real cars tear drop lines. (note, the raised rear wing, in this image) the Dramatic side vents are a bit tough to see being black on black, but the lighting on this angle shows just how deep some of the cuts are in the body work. (also wing in its down position, which i find so elegant and is my preferred position for it) rear view of the car, there is very little hear as the body lines pull high to the wing and only a lower lip at the break lights to allow for minimal drag and maximum down-force on the read of the car. top view of the near stud-less car, not a lot to see from this angle that hasn't been shown already and lastly a comparison shot (slightly blurry i hadn't noticed till i was posting it here, will try to re shoot that at a later time) Thanks, for taking a look, and i welcome any and all feed back on this model, I'm probably not done with it myself yet, but its 95% the way it will likely stay. hope you liked it!

About 5 years ago, rumours were around hinting at a new supercar positioned between the 911 and 918 Spyder. Some dubbed it the "914.5", coming from the mean of the two model numbers. Unfortunately, such a car hasn't yet arrived, and I plan to solve that problem. This will be the true "Dream Porsche", taking features from both the 918 Spyder and the 911 Targa. It will combine the hybrid all-wheel drive and 4-wheel steering of the 918 with the iconic rear-mounted flat-6 engine and roof of the Targa. Here are my definite features: Flat-6 engine mounted in rear 8-speed paddle-shifting manual gearbox (connected to piston engine, driving rear) Fake electric motors "driving" the front and rear (as in the 918) Full independent suspension with camber angle, castor angle and adjustable ride-height (independent adjustment for each wheel). Not sure where the ride-height controls will be - probably under the front hood. 4-wheel steering (as in the 918) operated by the steering wheel. Opening hood and locking doors. 2 seats inside. Folding roof modelling the 911 Targa's mechanism. Here are features that I might add if I have enough space and parts: Brakes - not sure how these would be operated if they get added. A PF Large motor and battery box to drive the front axle. Like the 918, the front is single-speed. Unfortunately, the only RC stuff I have is MINDSTORMS, which would be too bulky for this. Opening rear revealing the engine. The car will be 1:10 scale - considerably smaller than the 911 GT3 RS from LEGO. I haven't started building yet - I still need to add a couple of finishing touches on my current build. However, most of the "technologies" (such as an 8-speed gearbox and adjustable suspension) already exist in my current build, so this will likely be finished by mid-July. UPDATE 1 (03/07/2016): Paddle-shifting mechanism and steering wheel mount Having dismantled my previous build, I have built this compact steering wheel mount with an integrated paddle shifter. The two levers on either side of the steering wheela are paddle-shifters. They shift when pushed inwards. Here is a side view: Each paddle makes a lever move downwards and hit the cross-shaped element. I initially used a knob wheel, but it was too small for the lever to make it advance far enough. When the lever extends, the cross rotates about 75 degrees before the lever blocks it from going any further. When the paddle is released, the lever retracts and allows the cross to rotate the final 15 degrees. The paddles have rubber bands to make them return to their original position when released. The part with the wedge-belt wheels can slide a short distance. It too has rubber bands - this makes the cross "snap" to the nearest 90 degrees and provides the turning force for the final 15 degrees of rotation. There is also a universal joint - this is connected to the steering wheel.

Hi Here is my dream Porsche. It features and combines 3 of my favorite things of Porsche: The front V8 TT engine and front bumper of Panamera Turbo S The 911 shape The RSR look and feel The result is this. Hope you (and judges ) like it Features. 1:10 Scale RWD and Fake V8 engine 4 Speed Gearbox with remote stick Independent suspension in the 4 wheels Working Steering Wheel (No HOG) Openable hood and doors (With lock system) Adjustable seats with gears Big Spoiler (Like the RSR models) Miscellaneous things like hand bag, lights etc. *Surprise feature* Removable V8 engine and transmission like a car About the last feature, well, I'll show it later in another pics and video. (I haven't had time to take more pics) Here are the pics of the last feature Making this function was the most difficult of the model, because it must be work smooth in every gear and I must find the proper joint points in the gearbox to the chassis. Also it must be easy to remove without bending or forcing the rest of the car. After many tests, I achieved it. More pics of the car This photo scream for the bigger Steering wheel (Sadly I don't have it yet) More pics and video will come soon The full gallery https://www.flickr.com/photos/137229326@N08/albums/72157668154949314 Video. The car was completed some days ago, but I decided to post it as my 100 post here, in the greatest Lego community

So, a long time ago, I decided, on a whim, to make a small, fast car. Inspired by Mahjqa's Ice9 racer, I built something similar, but with 5 years of parts advances, namely the L and servo motor. Ice18 by Saberwing007, on Flickr it is similarly compact, but I was not able to make a nice shell for it, and lost interest in the project. As a matter of fact, this just goes to show that I don't really like fast things. Controlling them indoors, in a tiny apartment, on carpet, is a pain in the rear. Not helping is the fact that using stock PF outside is impossible, and then you have control delay, which all in all makes the experience no fun, at least for me. Maybe if I had an Sbrick... Anyway, let's go into some technical details. My version uses an L motor for propulsion, and due to the new diff, has a slightly lower gear ratio,3.57:1 vs 5:1 on Ice9. However, the rpm at the wheels is actually faster, due to the speed of the L motor, 971 vs 730 on Ice9. You do need quite a run up to use that speed, however. Because of the servo and L motor having more mounts, I was able to use them, as well as the battery pack, as stressed members. The chassis is quite floppy without the battery box, in fact. But hey, it adds lightness. Ice18 by Saberwing007, on Flickr Versus the above view, there is not really a whole lot to see that's different on the bottom view, but most people want it. Ice18 by Saberwing007, on Flickr The gears are braced on all sides, there is no way for them to skip. There is no way for axles to walk out, for that matter. Ice18 by Saberwing007, on Flickr Steering lock is good, there are no restrictions, or chassis rubbing. And, of course, my inspiration. Ice Nine views by mahjqa, on Flickr I might be able to build small, but I sure can't do stylish designs, or photography, like Mahjqa can. I also have an .LXF file, it has a canopy, which is optional. It will also be posted to Rebrickable, and I will add that link when it is moderated. LXF:http://www.brickshel...Ideas/ice18.lxf Rebrickable:http://rebrickable.com/mocs/Saberwing/ice18 Thanks for viewing. P.S. There is not going to be a video, there isn't really anything to show, and I need the servo for a project that's a contest entry.

This is my first MOC on this site! Bear in mind that I have only been building for slightly more than 2 years and don't have a very large collection, so my builds aren't exactly Sheepo standard... The car is a 1:10 model, although I had to deviate from the scale slightly in order to fit the functionality I wanted into the car (width was increased to 25 studs for example). Here are the features (LONG list): Remote control drive with three EV3 Large motors. Top speed around 5mph. Drive goes to all four wheels via two diffs. Remote-control steering with EV3 Medium motor. Turning radius is rather large though. 8-speed automatic hybrid gearbox. Basically a 4-speed automatic and a 2-speed ratchet gearbox (inspired by Sariel) used together. A model piston engine (V6) in the front with engine capacity scaled to the real car (I measured mine at 3.77cc, real car is 3.8l). Lever in cabin with Drive/Neutral/Brake settings. Handbrake system and rear friction brakes. Full independent suspension with negative camber angle. Adjustable ride height for each wheel through tuning dials (front ones are under the hood, rear ones are hidden next to the spoiler). Adjustable castor angle for each of the front wheels (adjusted by rotating the turntables). Opening sprung doors with locks. Opening sprung front hood. Cabin with fake steering wheel (non-rotating), FOUR SEATS and a floor. Pic with doors and hood open, revealing the model engine. The red pads on the hood are rubber friction pads (from EV3 Education Expansion set) - these keep the hood closed. Close ups showing the piston engine and suspension. When the tuning screws are turned, a worm gear system rotates the arm where the shock absorbers are mounted. Adjustment range is about 2 studs. Castor is adjusted by turning the turntables - this effectively rotates the entire suspension system relative to the chassis. Beams from the chassis are placed to interfere with the rotation of the turntables - this keeps the turntables in place when not adjusted. The cabin is fitted with a full set of 4 seats, as in the real car. The occupants of the rear seat are given the rare treat of having gears from the 2-speed ratchet gearbox right next to them. When the drive setting is enabled, a driving ring allows the motors to drive the 4-speed gearbox. In neutral, the driving ring meshes with nothing, letting the car roll freely. In Handbrake, the driving ring locks the input shaft of the 4-speed gearbox to the output using a gear ratio that isn't part of the gearbox, effectively locking the shaft. This is like solving the equation 3x=x (x is the rotation speed of the shaft) - x can only be zero. Part of the drivetrain is shown here. The differential and elastic system measures the resistance on the input. The system on the bottom-left shifts gears when the resistance is too low or high. The 4-speed gearbox is a standard 5/3/1.67/1 design - the 2-speed's gear ratios fit "in between" these. Notice the towball links and lever below (remember this is an upside-down view) the gearbox. Those control the rear brakes. In Handbrake mode, the brakes are engaged. Here is a graph showing the 8 power bands (created with Microsoft Excel). The lines are cut off when the spreadsheet calculates that the motors run out of torque. This graph used data from my test runs, so the performance shown here is similar to that in real life. Top view of the rear with the body removed. The drive motors are visible, and the 16-tooth gears (used as tuning dials for the rear suspension) can be seen. This is the underside of the rear axle. When the towball link is pulled, the red rubber pad swings outwards and grips the inside of the wheel. I made the rather radical decision to leave the EV3 brick exposed at the back. I decided that covering it up would require too many parts, add too much weight and deviate from the scale. The GTR's four red rear lights are modelled with new-type 16-tooth clutch gears. Overall, I think this has been a successful build for me, cramming in far more features than any of my prior builds (in fact, I am yet to see a 1:10 supercar model with more functionality). However, some things could have been improved: It isn't a perfect scale mode. The seats are way too far forward - I had to do this to fit the monstrous powertrain inside. The rear end aesthetic requires, well, some getting used to. Rear wheels sometimes rub against the top of their fenders. Can be solved by setting the tuning to maximum ride-height. Negative camber angle is too pronounced. Steering lock is very small, and gets even smaller if castor angle is set to extremes. Gearbox tends to be rather "reluctant" to shift gear - this was the only way to stop it from constantly alternating between two gears. It isn't exactly GTR like when driven. GTRs are known for their acceleration, but the model takes ages to get up to speed. It drives more like a truck. My next build will be my Porsche competition entry - no EV3 will be involved for that, although plenty more features (did someone mention 4-wheel steering?)...

After the 'recent' Mini Cooper, Transporter T1 and Ferrari F40, what should be the next model in the expert Creator line? Some suggestions: - Aston Martin DB5 - Jaguar E-Type - Ferrari 250 GTO - Jaguar Mk2 - Mercedes 600 'Grosser' - Citroën DS

The Koenigsegg One:1 was introduced in 2014. Seven examples, including one prototype, were built during 2014 and 2015. This was one of the most exclusive production car programs ever envisaged in the car industry. The hp-to-kg curb weight ratio is an astonishing 1:1. This has been called the “dream” equation, previously thought impossible when it comes to fully road legal and usable sports cars. The One:1 is the first homologated production car in the world with one Megawatt of power, thereby making it the world´s first series produced Megacar. More on the One:1 at http://koenigsegg.com/one1/ This car grabbed my attention about a year ago so I decided to try to build it. The design parameters that I want to achieve include the following: Replicate the rear triplex suspension set up of the Koenigsegg One:1 as closely as possible Replicate the front suspension set up Syncro dihedral door hinges which are typically Koenigsegg Paddle shift gearbox - a new challenge for me. A good approximation of the real car with the bodywork. Tough enough to withstand my young three year old playing with it. Intuitive enough for my kids to explore the functions. After a long build process and lots of experimentation I am really happy with the end result. The paddle shift gear box ended up being 3 speed plus reverse mainly due to space restrictions and also complexity. Perhaps a future project will be to expand this concept to include additional gears. The paddle shifts at the steering wheel are aesthetic in that they are linked to the actual manual shifters which are camouflaged on top of the dashboard, but it is not really possible to exert enough force on the dash paddles to change gear. This is presented in the images below and in the CAD image. Over time I will digitise this and add a bit of video to show the functions, but first, here are some pictures. [TBC]

Hi, as I'm going to to build some scenes from the Harry Potter movies for the Lego Fanwelt Event next year in Cologne, Germany, I began with planning these two magical vehicles: The Weasley's Flying Ford Anglia and the Knight Bus, emergency transport for the stranded witch or wizard. So here's a rendering of the LDD models: Magical vehicles from Harry Potter by Vaionaut I hope you like them ;) Best Vaionaut

Hi there, Hope everyone is having fun building cranes for TC8. This MOC was created as I'd just bought the horrifically expensive rechargeable battery box from the LEGO shop, and I wanted to incorporate it into a build. I decided to build something compact, and the below picture is the result. This chassis was designed around the new MX5 convertible at 1:12.5 scale. While it's very simple, I'm quite proud of the fact that I managed to fit all the power functions into it, while keeping it to scale. The height of the car (not including seats and windscreen) needed to be a maximum of 8 studs. The turning circle is tight on the car as well. I then tried to build the body, and this is where things became a lot harder and more frustrating. The build is OK, but nothing great. I wanted to use more panels, but I found them bulky and quite unwieldy for a model this size. The car is also a bit blocky and dense, maybe using flex axles through the body would be better? I don't know. The model has nothing fancy, only the doors open and close and power functions (L motor, servo, Battery & IR receiver) which steer and move the car. Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks. More images at http://bricksafe.com/pages/Chade/112.5-rc-convertible

I have begun to plan out a MOC I have been wanting to do: a UCS Mach 5! And, I am going to include ALL 7 abilities! I will try to find a way to put in the jacks, homing drone, tire treads, red headlights, blades, bullet prof protection, and periscope. This is where I will be posting my progress as well as asking for suggestions.

Hey there. I use to build small scale vehicles but I always wanted to build a large scale one, and finally decided to go ahead with that idea. However, I'm new with such a big scale and even before actually building something, I'm already stuck. I would like to know if could you help me building a solid base/ chassis for my vehicle. I already have searched on the web for a few ideas but i can't find anything, and the few large scale LEGO sets vehicles I own seem too basic on the bottom, so I would like to ask you if could you share pictures of large scale vehicles you might have built so I can take a few ideas from it. I'm looking for something like this MOC made by the MOCpages user Austin Nomorinfo, that allows a few bottom details, however this and the other vehicles he shared pictures of the bottom seem to be really confusing: (http://mocpages.com/moc.php/295567) Thanks for your help.

Hello everyone! I want to present you my MOC - the "Huntsman" drift car. Characteristics: Length - 28 cm Height - 9,7 cm Width - 14,7 cm 1 Servo-motor for steering, 2 L-motors for driving, 1 Small battery box. Thank you for attention!

Jake Raines is out in the desert seeking a rumoured lost Sphinx. He has a tough car to track through the near non-existent roads and shifting sands. So, I bought a mostly complete Rise of the Sphinx on eBay and haven't got around to sorting the parts yet. I whipped together this car from what was in the bag of parts. I like the challenge of limits to parts. I think this came out all right. It's also my first build in ages, most of my collection is awaiting the completion of my LEGO space... On closer inspection, it looks like I need to give these parts a good dust!

Hi Everyone, For some months I have been working on a realistic looking "not so super" car. Actually it is my real life car, I tried putting both much functionality and also good in aesthetics. Here is a photo of real life image of Ford Focus I "focused", (photo is not my car, my is 5door hatchback in dark gray) Nope, it is not orange, LEGO lacks many things in orange but as Blakbird says white is new red, so I made it in white. Still there are many pieces lacking in white so I had to use many black pieces from my inventory. Now it looks like a panda unfortunately. I hope you enjoy it. Features: * Common Expectations from a (Super) Car: Independent Suspension, 5+R gearbox, working steering wheel, HOG steering, fake engine * Handbrake / 2WD / All WD switch, fake engine is tied to front wheels * Openable doors, back trunk, front hood + sunroof * Realistic accessories: side mirror, back mirror, glovebox (?), console "middle of seats arm putting thing / small box" (what is this called in english?), fake air conditioners and its control panel, fake stereo system * Around 2stud suspension travel * Custom front axle with some geometry I honestly dont know its names, I know it has Ackermann steering and kingpin incline:) idea is from here, check post #8 and #13 * NO RC Link to all screenshots: Ford Focus Second Gen Glovebox thing, sorry it is black and hardly visible there Handbrake's special switch to activate 2WD/AWD and also handbrake (by locking the middle differential to force on with different direction turning, technically prevents wheels turning = handbrake ) That "thing" I have been mentioning about the middle seat box. Console and you can also see the handbrake's link going back. Idea is almost same with the new gokart set. Dead simple sunroof, opens by manual lifting, no technic stuff. Front axle, idea from this thread: http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=74356 check post #8 and #13 Finally the bottom of car and interior with a different angle to show "fake" stereo and air conditioner controls I hope you like it, Things I dont like: * It is white, I really wanted to make it orange, perhaps after Porsche set is out I will have a chance to convert it to orange. * Front is ugly, if you have a different idea about the front hood and lights, I appreciate. * I could not put the fog lights on front, I want to put them for completeness, again problem of the front * Interior is messy to make the sunroof and also the angular back, it is not really visible unless you look for them (no photo of it hehe). interior is like the arm of 42042 :) * To make the angular view, I used some angles which Lego does not like, no stress is made but as you see not all beams look connected directly. Hint: 15L white beam over the rear wheel is actually completing a 15x1 triangle * to LEGO: Why you not make #4 connector and #6538c on white common !!! Cheers

Hello! I've made a funny video based on the 60128 set: Police Pursuit. The Lego Police Chase Enjoy!!

Hi folks, I present to you the smallest technic truck ever.. Any comments on the build and advice to upgrade this moc are welcome... I tought a "little joke" most be possible... :grin: :grin:

As a kid who grew up in the 80's with all of the coolest toys including the awesome M.A.S.K. line, I had always wanted to do a legit M.A.S.K. style vehicle in Technic.. I did a car back in 2009, but it wasn't very good as I was still learning how to build... When Jim announced this new contest, I decided to try my hand at a similar sized scale car(I guess around 1:18 scale) to the original vintage M.A.S.K. vehicles.. I already had the style of car in my head to go along with the name.. This model is not for the contest, but instead to test myself with something new and possibly to inspire everyone still competing during this final week... I have been sitting on a dozen of these Technic parts for about 4 years trying to figure out what to do with them And I finally got the chance to use 4 of them in an interesting way.. I may use these as some type of air intakes in a future super car... Since the model was an Enforcer and would be primarily black, I knew that it would be tough to make a really interesting looking vehicle being limited with only a black and white color palette, luckily I got to absolutely abuse this part which worked out quite nicely.. The vehicle's 4 wheels fold down by turning a small knob in the rear and both of the doors also go up at the same time to act as wings while revealing 4 small Flick Fire missiles ready to blow up the nearest bad guy... The rear spoiler pulls outwards and upwards while dropping the rear valance at the same time to expose defensive dual smoke screen blasters to blind any pursuers... The front machine guns pop out by sliding a lever forward between the seats and retracts by sliding it back.. I made use of this part to lock the guns into and out of place... The car doesn't have any steering, suspension, gearbox, or fake engine(well it does have a fake engine style cover). The wheels roll, but that is about it as I wanted to actually build something just like what I used to play wiht back in the 80's.. Anyways, here it is, The Shuriken Brickshelf Link

Hello everyone! Today I decided to give you a revolutionary idea in LEGO the automotive industry. This is a modular vehicle, its function in that it can from one base to make a few variations of body and lining. Look! Versions: Sedan Station Wagon Hatch Coupe The version number is limited only by your imagination. Limo, Pickup, Van, Hearse, caravan, Taxi, Police car, etc. Вe creative, I only will be glad! Here is a link to the .lxf file. Comments and criticism are welcome.

Here is my work in progress entry for [TC7]. Normal Mode: Bandit Mode: Story: The bandits were looking to develop a new vehicle utilizing a new engine prototype that allowed for huge amounts of torque and speed. This new vehicle, named Firehawk, would be lightweight and fast built for those missions that required the bandits to get in and out of a situation quickly. This new photon rotary engine pushes the limits on speed allowing the Firehawk to outrun pretty much everything of the known enforcers line of vehicles. Unfortunately, to keep the weight down, the Firehawk is not loaded down with big weapons, but just some basic weapons to get the job done. Naturally, a sports car body would be the normal mode powered by a conventional V12 piston engine, with the ability to transform into a supersonic plane powered by the photon rotary engine. Normal mode features: - Fully Independent Suspension. - Working Front Steering Using Steering Wheel. - Working V12 Powering Rear Wheels, with differential. - Special Gearbox/Transmission That Couples Two Separate Engines To Rear Wheels. - 3 Forward Gears + Reverse For The V12 - 2 High Speed Forward Gears For The Photon Rotary Engine (Car Mode When Transformed). - Working Headlights - Working Doors Bandit Mode (Still working on this) - Transform To Plane - Doors Turn Into Main Wings (Manual) - Rear Air Intake Into Rear Wings (Manual) - Photon Rotary Engine Extends, Lights Rotate With Wheels (Pneumatic Switch On Dash) - 2 Front Large Caliber Guns (Hidden Behind Headlights That Manually Fold Down) - 2 Rear Mini Missile Launchers (Launch Via Pneumatic Switch On Dash) Other: - Pneumatics powered by manual pump and air tank. - Front Headlights Powered By 9v Battery Box. - Photon Rotary Engine Light Powered By 9v Battery Box. I'm still tweaking a few things on this model yet, but wanted to share to gather any additional insights to potentially make it better prior to the contest deadline. Once I get the tweaks complete, I will shoot and post a video.

OK, continuing the current trend of building cars intended to give some competition to the up coming Speed Champion cars I've been hard at work on a 6-wide KTM X-Bow. this little speed machine was built to take on the most technical raceways and put out Ferrari level times for a fraction of the cost. Our resident Octane driver liked the car so much he has been begging me for one. so with out further ado here is my latest MOC. EDIT: LDD file added to mocpages entry: LDD KTM X-BOW The X-Bow uses a turbocharged four-cylinder 2.0 litre Audi engine which produces 237 hp, in a car weighing only 790kg! This beast can run 0-60mph in a short 3.9 seconds. the slot in the orange body panels is meant to resemble a Crossbow which to takes its name from. and here is our happy new owner! i bet he can't wait to start enjoying this little roadster! Comparison pic with the Endurance racer, which shares a wheel base and height, but overall length is shorter on the KTM (3 whole studs shorter) as always Comments and Critiques are welcomed, hope you liked it!

Hey guys, I have found out you can use the minifgure style head piece inside of wheels to add some extra detail to some vehicles. Sorry in advance for slightly blurry images I wasn't using the best camera and I have unsteady hands. Style 1: IMG_20150207_124635620 by Railco1, on Flickr Style 2: IMG_20150207_125438985 by Railco1, on Flickr Hope you like these i think they are kind of cool, you do not need to include a 1x1 round plate but I did for a little color in the rim. -RailCo NOTE: You cannot do these with the new style wheels that clip in you can use them on the new ones that use an axle as shown. [How you can use it for trains!]: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=105603

I made Mention in my last MOC thread about building a car from "yesteryear" well after looking over many great cars from the 60s and 70s i settled on the Iconic Ford GT40, in particular the 1966 MKI. *History Lesson* As Many racing fans know the Ford GT40 holds quite an amazing chapter in Le Mans history. starting in 1966 the GT40 had come out of its development years and was primed to dominate the endurance racing scene. the MKII would win 24 hours of Daytona along with 2nd and 3rd. Sebring was another 1, 2, 3 finish for the Ford cars with the X-1 Roadster taking the over all. at Le Mans of 1966 the GT40 was running 1, and 2 late in the race and in an attempt to keep both Drivers happy with the result Ford tried to arrange a tie. Driver Ken Miles was however not satisfied with a tie, and in protest to Ford slowed his car in the final straight still taking second but removing what could have been an amazing side by side finish. 1967 was equally as successful with the MKVI taking Le Mans. in 1968 a rule change was applied that limited engine size and eliminated the MKII, MKIII and MKIV, leaving the older MKI cars still eligible. this change in rules left the MKI in great position for the season and lead to a Championship for Makes victory for Ford. the following year would be the end of the GT40s reign being almost 6 years older than its competitors. in a very close battle with Porsche's 908 the Ford GT would win but by mere seconds unlike previous years. the most remarkable detail of the 68, and 69 victories is that it was achieved by the exact same car - the legendary GT40P/1075. this to date is the only Car to win the 24hours of Le Mans twice. *end of history lesson* I've spent quite a lot of time on this one, more than my previous cars combined. with the history of the car, and my long standing appreciation of the car i had to get it right. My model is 16studs long and only 3 bricks 2 plates tall. so, without further ado here is my LEGO 1966 Ford GT40 MKI (road car). *Update: revised headlights to better match those found on the actual car* Ford GT40 headlights 2.0 as always, I hope you enjoyed my build, there are more pictures of the car in my Flickr, for those that want to see more. Comments and critiques welcomed!

REVIEW - 42039 - 24 HOURS RACE CAR INTRODUCTION When the preliminary images of the "Le Mans Racer" surfaced somewhere last year (2014) it got a lot of praise. This changed dramatically when the final images of the 24 Hours Race Car showed up. The front side of the car, especially the head lights, and the curvature of the side of car had changed a lot. The car obviously still resembled the prototype, but the new design raised a lot of eyebrows. The new design was considered a step back instead of forward. Eventhough I still liked the design, I must admit I liked the earlier design better too. With the emphasis on past tense liked. I am not sure anymore and this review will show you why. Like the Arctic Truck this set has a B-model which is well worth checking out. That's why this review includes both the A-model and B-model. For people who are on the fence, the B-model might actually convince them to buy the set after all. Let's see what this set is all about! Note: All images can be clicked for hi-res versions. SET INFORMATION Number: 42039 Title: 24 Hours Race Car Theme: Technic Released: 2015 Part Count: 1219 Box Weight: 2110 gr Box Dimensions: 47,8 cm x 37,3 cm x 8,7 cm Model Dimensions: 40 cm x 18 cm Set Price (MSRP): €99.99 / $? / £99.99 Price per Part: €0.082 / $? / £0.082 Links: Brickset, Bricklink THE BOX The box measures 47,8 cm x 37,3 cm x 8,7 cm and weighs well over 2kg (2110 gr to be precise). The width of the box is the same as the box of the Arctic Truck. This box also feels like it's filled to the brim. THE FRONT The front shows a picture of the main model in action, with radial blurred wheels to emphasize the motion of the car. The lower right section shows the dimensions of the model. Upon completion, it will measure a length of 40cm and a width of 18 cm. THE BACK Like the front, the back side has exactly the same setup as the box of the Arctic Truck. The top shows the functions of the model, while the lower left side shows the B-model and the lower right side shows the motorization options. The picture of the B-model looks so cool, it could be a model of it's own. At this point I was very eager to build both models and compare them. THE SIDE One of the sides usually shows a part in 1:1 scale. This time it's one of the wheels indicating the size of the model. CONTENT OF THE BOX The box contains: 1 Book(let) 1 Sticker Sheet 13 Bags 4 Tires INSTRUCTION BOOKLET Since I own two copies of the set, I also received two instruction booklets. What's catching my eye is that my second copy is supplied in different packaging than the first one. It's for the first time (that I am aware of) that the instruction booklet and stickers come in a sealed bag, without cardboard back. Hopefully this will be a new standard for all sets with sticker sheets. Instead of multiple booklets, this set contains a single square bound book. In earlier reviews I have epxressed my preference for a single book. I don't see any advantage in having 2, 3 or even up to 6 booklets. STICKER SHEET Like the actual model, the sticker sheet looks very vibrant. The bright green, white and black color combination has found it's way to the stickers as well. Either you love 'em or hate 'em. Since I started writing reviews I have been applying stickers and I am happy I started doing it. Stickers do give the model it's finishing touch. BAGS WITH PARTS Thirteen bags with a total of 1219 parts (give or take a few) are supplied in the densily packed box. The rims and flex are sealed in a bag as well. Sometimes looking at the bags makes you wonder what the logic is, behind the distribution of the various parts across the different bags. Well this time it really got me confused. Take a look at two of the bags below. There's a bag containing all the 3L Blue Pins. Then there's a bag with various parts....and a single 3L Blue Pin. I figured this might be an error, but both of the sets have the same anomaly. TIRES The tires have been supplied unbagged, as usual. HIGHLIGHTED PARTS This chapter describes new and interesting parts. This set actually contains a lot of them. This set also contains an abundance of panels. If you aren't into panels, this isn't the set for you. CHANGEOVER CATCH This year (2015) the new changeover catch parts were released. It's a combination of three parts. The advantage of the new parts is that the red gear is the same on both sides, which avoids mounting it the wrong way around. It also avoids the changeover catch slipping out of the driving ring, like it used to do. You can apply lots of pressure, but the catch doesn't slip out. PINS Some of last year's new pins are also included in this set. 12 x Pin with Pin Hole and 21 x 3L Pin with 1L Axle. Securing Technic Beams can be quite simple with the new Pin with Pin Holes. The new 3L Pin with 1L Axle gives you more possibilities when connecting Beams and other parts. Below are two example situations where the new pins have been used. Granted, the examples below can be accomplished by using other techniques. However, some predicaments from the past can be easily solved by using these new parts. Like me, you will most likely appreciate the ease of use. ENGINE AND SUSPENSION Also included are two Steering Portal Hubs and Steering Portal Hubs with Ball Joint Arms and four Steering Portal Axles for driving and steering the vehicle. These parts are commonly used nowadays. The picture below also shows some other parts, like gear rack, steering arms and suspension. FRAMES This set comes with a single 5x7 Frame and three 5x11 Frames. PANELS This set contains a whopping 47 panels in three different colors. I personally like panels a lot and I do appreciate the variety we have at our disposal lately. This set even contains a new 13x3x2 Curved "Mudguard" Panel. NEW 13x3x2 CURVED PANEL This is the first set to contain the new 13x3x2 Curved Panel. Looking at the pictures doesn't do these panels justice. In real life they are actually quite big. I figured they would be smaller, but they are even longer than the 11 x 5 frame, with a length of 13 (including the attachment points). Hopefully this part will be available in other colors as well, preferably white, for adding variety to your EV3 robot. 19L WHITE FLEX-AXLES The White 19L Flex Axles have only been released in a single set, the 8461 Williams F1 Racer in 2002. Current prices on Bricklink are as high as 15 Euros! Needless to say we are very happy with the return of these White Axles. Now we can build Jeroen Ottens' awesome Alfa Romeo 4C Spider for a decent price as well. I am really happy that useful rare parts are being used more often by TLG designers PART LIST Here's the complete list for all 1219 parts. As you can see in the Highlighted parts section, this set contains a lot of interesting and useful parts. If you don't own sets like the 8070 - Supercar, this might be the set to pick up if you want to start building your own supercar. THE BUILD Enough with all the set and part information, let's build the model. REAR SUSPENSION The build starts with the rear suspension and drivetrain. As you can see in the picture below, the length of the Axle between the Steering CV Joint is 4L, where it usally is 3L. This is an indication that the finished model will be a bit bigger than usual (8070 for example). The finished suspension is one of the cleanest suspension setups I have seen in an official model. It's pretty basic, but it works like a charm. This setup is defintely worth using in your MOC. Here's a video: After attaching the suspension to the frame you rotate the module and secure it. At this stage the rear section of the chassis with suspension is almost finished. V8 MID-ENGINE Extending the chassis forward results in the picture below, where the front spoiler is already visible. What's also visible is the V8 engine placed right in front of the rear axle, resulting in a Mid-engine setup, perfectly suited for sports and race cars. Two exhaust pipes have been fitted on either side of the engine, together with two hoses attaching them to the engine. The instructions are easy to follow, although you sometimes you need to bend the beams a bit. Minor improvements are possible here and there, but nothing shocking. FRONT SUSPENSION The front suspension is a bit more complicated than the rear suspension, which makes sense considering the fact it contains the steering rack. The shock absorbers are placed in a different angle than the rear ones, resulting in a somewhat stiffer front suspension. All in all the front suspension is well designed and the steering rack can be easily powered with a Servo Motor. The picture belows shows the front suspension attached to the chassis. If you follow the official instructions to motorize the model, the area in front of the suspension is used to mount the battery box. When you are modding this model to make it Full RC this area can be used to mount the servo motor. GEARBOX Like the gearbox in the 8070, it's not used to switch gears powering the drivetrain. It's used to switch between two functions, opening the doors and the hood/bonnet. The gearbox is located at the left of the vehicle, near the cockpit. The mechanism to open the doors is located on the left side, while opening the hood/bonnet is taking place at the right side. To accomplish this, some axles traverse under the cockpit to the other side of the vehicle. Following the axles to other side of the vehicle and adding some gears, results in the situation below. The video below shows the gearbox in action. DOOR OPENING MECHANISM The mechanism to open the door is comprised of some Knob Wheels, Links without Stoppers and Pins with Towballs. Take a look at the doors opening and closing. THE FRONT Using the new mudguards and various other panels you finish the front of the car. The front is probably the most controversial part of the car. This is caused by the preliminary pictures shown before the release of this car. In the early pictures the front of the car had smooth curves and beautiful lines, while the final car lost these smooth lines and got a more blocky look in return. I must admit that at a first glance, the new design lost some of it's appeal. However, this model grew on me pretty rapidly. The headlight design can be found, in more or less the same way, on several real Le Mans type race cars. THE REAR The rear of the car looks great, with the stickers continuing from the mudguards to the panels underneath the spoiler. The two exhausts sticking out give some details to the back. I absolutely disagree with all the negativity surrounding this car. Maybe it's one of those models which needs to grow on you. FINISHED MODEL Here it is, the finished model. I know some of you don't like the looks of the car, but I think it looks great. The color scheme is outstanding. The new (for Technic) bright green parts, combined with white and black make this car look very vibrant and colorful. I am not a big fan of the green used in the 42008 - Service Truck, but I do like this bright green a lot. It fits perfectly well with the Mindstorms EV3 set. The curves on the side of the car are not as smooth as some of us hoped, but I still think the car looks more than acceptable from the side. The stickers add some nice details to the car, giving it that characteristic race car look. The model looks great in pictures, but it does even look better in real life. I love this picture of the front of the car. However, I do wonder if a dedicated 24 hour Le Mans Racer has the seat and steering positioned off-center?! Using the good ol' Google Machine I come to the conclusion that they do have centered seating and steering, at least the majority of them. There's ample space in the cabin, which makes me wonder why TLG decided to place the seat off-centered. The rear view looks cool too, with some of the suspension showing and the two exhaust pipes clearly visible. The bottom view is very useful to determine the size of the car in studs. It measures approx 59 x 27 studs. The chassis looks organized and well designed. The engine has been placed close to the ground, which is perfect for the weight distribution. A low center of gravity improves the handling of the car. I really enjoyed building this baby. The build is very clean and organized, although there are some steps where you need to bend the beams a bit to get things into place. Seeing the model come to life and seeing it grow to pretty impressive proportions is very satisfying. For me it was fun, but I reckon kids will go nuts over this set and the build. SIZE COMPARISON What became obvious during the build, but what's emphasized when you have finished the model, is that it's quite big! The size of the car is pretty impressive. The pictures below show the car next to the 42030 - Volvo L350F. The side view emphasizes the size of the car. It's even longer than the Volvo, if you dismiss the bucket. PARTS LEFT Some parts left. Nothing out of the ordinary. FEATURES AND FUNCTIONS Unlike the B-model, this model doesn't implement any unexpected features. The functions it does implement are exactly what you would expect from any car. Steering (HoG) Working fake engine Suspension Opening doors (gullwing style) Opening bonnet/hood Opening trunk Gearbox for switching between functions Unfortunately the steering wheel hasn't been linked to the HoG (Hand of God) steering mechanism. Placing the seat in the center would have provided an easy way to link the steering wheel to the steering mechanism. it's a shame we hardly see actual steering anymore. Opening the hood actually opens up the entire rear section of the car, providing you with easy access to the motor compartment. The mechanism to open the hood works properly, which results in smooth opening and closing of it. The same goes for the gullwing style doors. Both functions are operated manually and you need to switch with the lever to the left of the cockpit. These two functions are also the ones which can be motorized by placing an M-motor near the cockpit and a battery box in the trunk. All things considered I think this car offers lots of playability. The model is solidly built and the functions are easy to operate. I'd say it's pretty safe to let your kids play with it. B-MODEL Unlike the A-model, the B-model for this set received (almost) universal acclaim, and I can see why. Often the B-model is a pale shadow of it's part donor. In this case the model looks so good, it could be a model of it's own. It even incorporates a neat feature, which actually deserves to be in the A-model. There's a lot a variation in the quality of digital building instructions TLG is providing, but these ones are of very high quality. The picture below shows most of the chassis with suspension, fake engine and gearbox in place. FINISHED MODEL Some concessions have been made, but overall the car looks fantastic. The black of the roof has been extrapolated from the hood, which definitely works for me. The rear section of the car feels a bit empty, but the panels do cover up most of it, so it's hardly noticeable. The V8 stickers will be upside down if you use the parts from the A-model. Since I could apply new stickers, I have placed them using the proper orientation. The bottom of the car shows the chassis. It's obviously a bit smaller than the A-model's chassis. FEATURES AND FUNCTIONS Taking the functions into account, this model isn't playing second fiddle to the A-model. Besides the obvious functions like steering, opening doors and hood, this car features folding fog lights, which deserve a better podium than a B-model. Steering (Hog) Working fake engine Suspension Opening doors (manually) Opening hood/bonnet (manually) Opening trunk (operated by gear) Folding fog lights (operated by gear) Gearbox (used to switch functions) FOG LIGHTS One of the most interesting features of the B-model are the folding Fog Lights. It almost feels a bit weird that a feature like this is implemented in the B-model, instead of the A-model. Below are 4 steps showing how the mechanism works. I have also included a video. The mechanism is somewhat reminiscent of fork mechanism used in the 8109 - Flatbed Truck, which has been described in Efferman's Review. Take a look at the video to the fog lights in action. PARTS LEFT A fair number of parts left, which isn't uncommon for a B-model. SUMMARY To summarize how I feel about this set, you need to take a look at the picture below. The combined image reflects the quality of this set....or better yet....sets! You actually get two great models, for the price of one. You don't like the A-model? No problem, you can have lots of fun with the B-model. I can't stop playing with the fog lights, it's mesmarizing. The color scheme on both models is outstanding. I simply can't emphasize enough how well this color scheme pleases the eye. The regular green is dull and boring, but this bright green really pops out, especially when combined with black and white, and possibly some red details. Black, white and a little red?! Sounds familiar? Yes, bright green can easily be combined with your EV3 robots. So while you are combining the bright green with your robot, why not use the great new curved "mudguard" panels. These new panels are introduced in this set and they look great. They open up a lot of possibilities in the design department. The build of the A-model is outstanding. It is fairly simple, but since it's so clean, I really enjoyed it a lot. I think the build should be entertaining, which doesn't mean it needs to be a real challenge. And let's be honest; when is a build really challenging?! The rear suspension is a good example of why I liked the build. It's very simple, yet very effective. Works like a charm. The same goes for the other functions in both models. And the star of the entire show can be found in the B-model. How's that for a surprise?! Being aware of the fact that I like this model a lot better than most of you seem to do, I really encourage you to give this model a chance. The sheer size is impressive, the color scheme is awesome and you get a bonus model, which is actually worth building. SCORE Okay, so how do I grade this set? 8 DESIGN Open to debate, but I like it a lot. 8 BUILDING EXPERIENCE Fun and clean build. 9 FEATURES Superb function in B-model steels the show. 9 PLAYABILITY Both models offer lots of playability 8 PARTS Lots of new parts and cool existing parts. 10 VALUE FOR MONEY Two models for the price of one. 8,7 TWICE THE FUN I hope you enjoyed this review! More pictures can be found on my Flickr page.

Welcome to Gallardo's Garage, here I will be posting up each of my newest city Car MOCs including past cars I've already shared here. the newest car will be added to the end of this first post. Featured New Car: The Dodge Viper ACR (2009) The American Club Racing (ACR) model's upgrades included street-legal racing tires (Michelin Pilot Sport Cups which Michelin describes as "Ultra-High Performance Sport tires"),two-piece brake rotors, adjustable suspension, and significant aerodynamic revision. No engine modifications were made, so power and torque remain at 600 hp (450 kW) and 560 lb·ft (760 N·m) as in the standard SRT-10. The ACR is street-legal! Weight was also decreased by 40 lb (18 kg) by using the "Hardcore Package", without AC, radio, speakers, amplifier, trunk carpet, hood pad or tire-inflator. Its aerodynamic upgrades produce up to 1000 pounds of downforce at 150 mph (240 km/h), or roughly 10 times the downforce the standard Viper SRT-10 can produce at the same speed. The interior was upgraded only by the addition of a beacon-tripped lap timer (Hardcore Edition Only). The Lego version is quite similar, with its aggressive stance, large brakes, and complete aerodynamic package. this Viper is ready to Terrorize the streets of a quite Lego city near you! (well maybe only near me for now). so here it is, The 2009 Dodge Viper ACR, 6w+, 18 studs long! Side view here it is easy to see the large disc brakes. Big thank you to ER0L for showing the tire trick this was adapted from! the signature A-symetrical racing stripes are very easy to see from this angle, running across the entire car length! this last one is for the MOCpages contest, just to prove that yes a Figure can fit in the car completely! (if i remove the stripe on the roof i can give him a helm too) Current cars: KTM X-BOW: (Original thread: X-BOW) Ford GT40 MKI: (Original Thread:GT40) Renault Alpine A442: (Original Post:A442) Pagani Huayra: (Original Post:Huayra) Maserati MC12: (Original Post:MC12) Renault Espace F1: (Original Post:Espace F1) Dodge Viper ACR: (Original Post:Viper ACR) Comments and Critiques are welcomed for all cars!