allanp

I have run hoses through those pieces and cross blocks and so on, but by far the neatest, most authentic and best looking solution is to use rigid flex system hoses (like on 8868). But it could be that, of all the pieces TLG have ever instructed us to fit a pneumatic tube onto, I have found the rigid flex hose probably to be the most tricky. Of course, this is relative as I find it fairly easy in absolute terms, it's only tricky relative to attaching pneumatic hose to all the other parts. So I guess some younger kids with the attention span of a gold fish might complain. Best trick is simply to wash your hands right before attaching any pneumatic hoses. Even if your hands are clean your skin still has oil in it which can make it harder to grip tiny plastic T-pieces and tiny plastic tubes.

3 sets over 1000 pieces for the second wave, and I want every one of them. Oh my poor wallet! Thanks again for the excellent review Sariel. I too would agree that the hoses look messy, and that they looked much better on 8868. However I'm still just so happy about their investment in the V2 pneumatic parts. Also the mess of hoses reminds that there are in fact pneumatics there in the first place. A hose (messy or neat like 8868) is still way more authentic and better than a rotating shaft .

The motor is a fairly typical 9V motor so any setup that can supply 9V to a 9V wire. But you can pick up a code pilot cheaply from bricklink. They are pretty neat actually. Just remember to get the card with the barcodes on it to program it. https://www.bricklin...&O={"color":11} https://www.bricklin... (paper size A3)&category=%5BElectric,%20Programmable%5D#T=S&C=0&O={"color":0}

I have never broke one, I guess z3_2drive is the best person to ask as he apparently has.

I think the white clutch gears are also there to protect the model as much as small fingers. Imagine all that gearing down from an XL motor without any protect and it's easy to see gears breaking. Maybe a better option is first trying adding more clutch gears.

Yeah, it's exclusive to Legoland as of right now. That will change in a few weeks and will be widely available.

Yes but there is a ratcheting gear setup which allows the blades to continue spinning without having to back drive the motor when motorised and the motor is turned off.

Yes the rotors of 9396 do keep spinning.

Would probably make a good B-model.

I like some of the regular Lego creeping in here, like the ladders and the drivers cabin window .

Yup, I can confirm this set is actually limited to planet Earth.

Excellent interview and very interesting answers. Would have loved to have been there to list all the awesome new parts I want as well as sets and ideas and so on, and also to thank them for the new pneumatics . Would have been nice to dig a little deeper into the colour vomit thing (we already know it is useful for 8 year olds, but when a set is marketed for 16+ I don't think so) as well as their thoughts on specific new part ideas but I understand there is only limited time and you easily filled the hour with lots of good questions, so thankyou . Also, you hint that other questions were asked off camera. Can you give any insight into these?

Kinda looks like the bucket wheel is actually being driven by the conveyor, like a huge chain drive. Hmmm, not sure about that (if it's true or if it's a good idea) but I am still quite excited for this set.

I think you may be missing the point of this engine. Yes you could use pneumatic cylinders however it's kinda like going to a vintage steam rally full of those marvellous old traction engines and saying "why don't they put a supercharged V8 in it?". Yes we know about the existance of different engine types but that's not the point. This is an oscillating engine, not a conventional combustion engine, and as an oscillating engine it is a very faithful and authentic reproduction of a real one and it works. At 0:20 in the video we see it runs at several hundred RPM from the pressure derived from a vacuum cleaner (less than 1 PSI normally) which is something most people already have so i'de say that was pretty cool.

This engine requires very little pressure to run so even with all the leakage it'll still run if there is sufficient air flow. This is really nice because most people don't have a compressor but a vacuum cleaner is far more common. This engine isn't meant to drive anything, though it could with enough gearing, but to be it's own bit of interest.

That all sounds very good to me!

Looks stunning, probably the best you can do to make it studless. Like the added suspension, cylinders and extra gear but the steering of the original is the best.

This looks VERY interesting, and I have yet more questions 1) Apart from the horizontal and vertical sliders is it possible to have other options? For example: A simple dial (useful for trains) Toggle switches and push muttons, momentary and latching A 2 way slider (so moving a slider up and down controls one motor, moving the same slider left and right controls a second motor), One or more "gear shifters". This is a little tricky to explain but imagine a gear shifter gate with six gears or positions (this would control 3 motors, usually 3 servos, each servo connected to one of the 3 driving rings in a typical technic 6 speed gearbox for example) where if you tap once on the screen on first gear, the BuWizz moves one servo an keeps it in that position until another gear is selected. For example, tap the center of the gate to center all three servos. Tap reverse and servo one moves to the left. Tap first gear and servo one moves to the right. Tap 2nd gear and servo one automatically moves back to the center position and servo 2 moves to the left, and so on. You could also have a "flappy paddle" option. 2) Apart from switching directions Is it possible to have more customisation options over each of the channels, for example: Setting upper and lower limits (this would set limits to how far a servo moves if you do not wish to have it move the full 90 degrees or limit the speed of a motor. This would be useful for a servo motor moving a drive ring (because you do not want the drive ring slider to move the full 90 degrees) of for when controlling a pneumatic valve (so you could set how far the valve moves in one direction whilst allowing it to go to it maximal position the other way, effectively being able to set how quickly a heavy boom comes down, from very slow and controlled to crashing down at full speed, when the slider is moved to it's limit), Dead zone cancellation (again, tricky to explain, but imagine you have a servo connected to a steering mechanism that has a lot of mechanical slack or a pneumatic valve that has a large dead zone in the middle. By setting the deadzone cancellation setting, upon moving the slider by a pixel or two to the left for example, the servo will quickly move to the left to a desired amount depending on the dead zone setting, so it would take up all the mechanical slack of the steering mechanism or move the pneumatic valve right to the edge of it's dead zone if set correctly. Did that make any sense?) 3) Easily selectable steering modes: Ok, so now imagine you have a monster truck or a tractor and you want it to have several steering modes, to do this you have 2 servos, one for steering each axle. In steering mode one you have regular steering (moving the slider operates only one servo motor which steers the front axle), In mode two you have 4 wheel steering (moving the slider now controls two servos in opposite directions which steers all 4 wheels), in mode 3 you have crab steering (moving the slider now moves both servos in the same direction, steering all 4 wheels the same way). It would be great to have a slider with a little toggle switch below it which would enable you to switch between steering modes on the fly. There could be other options for steering more axles using up to 4 servos, each moving by different amounts and in different directions, depending on the steering mode selected, all by moving one slider. Did any of that make any sense?!

Plus 1 for the fishing line. If damaging bricks is a concern you can line the holes with cheap connector pegs.

You say everything works prefectly when the two pins that hold the motor in place are NOT installed (assuming you yourself are holding the motor preventing it from turning), but when you put the pins in place it no longer works? Hmmm that is a strange one. What about if you remove the motor and just have the two pins in the motor, does the motor stall then? Have you looked to see if anything is stuck in the bottom of the hole (eg a piece of polystyrene from packaging materials) where the connector peg fits into the motor? Are there any moulding imperfections on the end of either connector peg? The reason I ask is because those holes in the front of the motor do NOT have a bottom, they go right through to the internal gearing and so if there is anything stuck in the hole it might jam the motor when you put a connector peg in there.

Right but not having the new pump myself I want Jim to do it!

I guess It's somebody wrinkly when standing still!

Any way of testing the max pressure of the new pump? Most of my pumps will exceed the limit of my lego pressure gauge.

I've only really operated forklifts, scissor lifts and cherry pickers. Didn't really have an effect on making want to buy an official set but it did make me want to build my own.

Yeah, the whole "it's not a finished product" and "it's open source" argument just doesn't seem valid to me. Not all of us are MOCcers and it just seems like a cop out way of finding excuses for them. Stop enabling them to be lazy!