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allanp

Eurobricks Grand Dukes
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Everything posted by allanp

  1. allanp
    Here's a couple of voiced reviews worth checking out:
  2. allanp
    Wait what? surely you don't already have info on the 2017 SUMMER sets?
  3. allanp
    Excellent build, I love the pictures, now I really want to rebuild my copy! Before this set came out, the last full size car to come out was this: and as a kid, I loved that car. It had front wheel steering and suspension using new parts to achieve that, it had a 3 speed gearbox and a V4 engine. It was highly advanced for the time and I loved it. So imagine my joy as a 9 year old boy, opening the catalogue and seeing this: A V8?! I've never seen before! Drive, suspension AND STEERING all on the same axle, ON BOTH AXLES?! How does that work? And just look at it compared to the previous car! And Oh look, a 4 speed gearbox with a H pattern shifter! how does that work? I am sorry for the large picture size but I really wanted to show my appreciation because following along this build brought back some of those wonderful feelings and somewhat resharpened some hazy memories of those feelings I had as a kid. Thank you for this build BTW, there is another set from the golden era that also has a wonderful design, 8480: BTW, weren't sets so much better presented and photographed back then? Sorry, this thread has really brought on the nostalgia in me .
  4. allanp
    I go away on holiday the same week every year, which just so happens to be next week (the first full week starting in September, all the kids are back in school, the prices suddenly drop to about half and the weather is still very good!). Not last year, but the year before it was during that week that the first images of the first half sets was "leaked".
  5. allanp
    I like that you have managed to keep the bulky, chunky feel of the original studded model
  6. allanp
    I haven't built one of these, but from I understand you need to add a second cylinder and a second valve. I would guess the sequence of events is as follows: 1) The operator (you) moves the first valve. 2) the first valve controls the first cylinder, so it moves. 3) the first cylinder is connected to the second valve, so that is switched. 4) the second valve controls the second cylinder, so now that moves. 5) the second cylinder is connected to the lever, so now that moves up and collides with the lever of the first valve to return the first valve to it's start position. 6) the first valve controls the first cylinder, so now that moves back to it's start position. 7) the first cylinder is connected to the second valve, causing that to now switch back to it's start position. 8) the second valve controls the second cylinder, so now that moves back to it's start position. 9) As the second cylinder is connected to the lever, this will now also return back to it's start position, and the device has now reset itself. 10) dogs and cats living together, MASS HYSTERIA! 11) ??? 12) Profit!
  7. allanp
    All those helicopters since 2010 and not one with a cyclic control, only one with (a mechanically unrealistic) collective pitch control, non with pitch control on the tail rotor. I doubt we'll get any of that in a first wave helicopter unless it's a first half flagship, but still I would love to see another helicopter is it did have these functions, and maybe even some form of flex or cable system?!
  8. allanp
    I wouldn't say the porsche is badly engineered, it's just far more ambitious. 8070 plays it safe with boring, unrealistic functions. The porsche attempts to push the boundaries so to speak, so I would have the gorgeous looking 42056 over 8070. But for me, while the functions of 42056 are authentic (for example an impressive paddle shift gearbox), it's the mechanically inauthentic execution of it's functions (in this example no rotary drum cam to shift gears, still using only one size of clutch gear) which puts me off buying it myself. So I wouldn't call it ultimate, but it's still far better than 8070.
  9. allanp
    Can't wait for the hydraulics!
  10. allanp
    Unless it's an official Lego sticker I don't think that would be allowed.
  11. allanp
    If you want it to actually dump stuff out you will need to increase the range of motion as it currently does not move far enough. This could be a really excellent model though
  12. allanp
    Welcome to Eurobricks You can put some life back into old pneumatics using some lubrication. Do NOT use anything petrolium based (like 3in1 oil) as these will corrode the rubber seal. use something silicone based. That tubing from blobkbricks is pretty good. not quite as good as proper Lego tubing as it feels softer and more flexible, so it tends to kink easy and the hoses can pop off, but for anything other than the most demanding pneumatic applications it's usually fine, and you can get great big long lengths of it. If they are used on bricklink they can range from being as good as new to being total crap. you can usually ask for pictures from the seller before buying. I haven't looked to see if the individual parts you want are cheaper than buying 8293, bt the switch is very useful. the newer battery boxes also have a better switch, don't know if 8293 comes with that. One small diameter cylinder is about 1/4 the strength of one large diameter cylinder, more or less.
  13. allanp
    Very good concept. This was on my own to do list so I'll be watching closely. I am fairly certain you will need a geared up fly wheel for smooth running. For a better connection between the link and the wheel you could swap the 1M beam/spacer with 2 3x0.5M pulleys. I think that could be reinforced with pins to better handle the torque of the pneumatics against the counter torque of a geared up flywheel.
  14. allanp
    You could take a whole bunch of pictures during disassembly, so when you look through them in the reverse order they look like building instructions!
  15. allanp
    http://shop.lego.com/en-GB/LEGO-Power-Functions-Extension-Wire-8886?p=8886&track=checkprice#shopxlink http://shop.lego.com/en-GB/LEGO-Power-Functions-Extension-Wire-20-8871?p=8871&track=checkprice#shopxlink
  16. allanp
    You'de probably get away with just using a V1 receiver. If that doesn't work for you you could use 2 V1 receivers both set to the same channel and have a motor driven from each of them. Or you could use an XL motor powered from one V1 receiver.
  17. allanp
    I wonder if the A model can feed into the B model, or is the B model too tall?
  18. allanp
    Those rotor blades look great as feathers. Kinda ironic (if that's the correct use of the word) that rotor blades and feathers are both used for flight.
  19. allanp
    Another thing to check for is slightly bent axles. They may be new and look straight, but you can tell by fitting and axle extender and a long axle then rotating it. It should rotate straight. I noticed an issue with this building the Claas with the long shaft that runs along the bottom, between the PTO's. I just couldn't get it to run completely freely. The issue was indeed a very slightly bent axle.
  20. allanp
    The tires are indeed awesome! One of mine came slightly deformed in the box but I'm sure it'll round itself out when put on the rim.
  21. allanp
    If you are unsure about giving something away for free then you probably shouldn't. But then if you only made them for yourself then I guess you could change a small "tip".
  22. allanp
    I suspected that the wheel was driven by the belt, which isn't really ideal. However I don't think having the wheel driven by a long spindly plastic axle under the torque of an XL motor would offer much of an improvement. I think it would be better to use an L motor and move all of the gearing down for the wheel to inside the wheel, so it would be driven by a much faster spinning axle under less torque. Or you could have a second motor inside the wheel to drive it.
  23. allanp
    Yes it is stupid to have to buy new pieces for a set you just bought. Especially if for example they printed the 3x11 plate in yellow, which only comes in one set in yellow, 42053 (to bring it back on topic ), because then you couldn't just buy the part you need from bricklink. And the parts that come with a set are a major factor (if not the biggest) in my decision to buy a set, and a printed piece is most often useless to me. A good quality sticker can be just as good as a printed piece and gives you the option of having the decoration or not. all a sticker does is increase the cost of making the piece as well as remove the option of not having the design on the piece, making the piece less versatile and less useful.
  24. allanp
    Colour coded parts, pre-assembled gearing in the motors, 1 part per step leaving no room in the instructions for the B-model, and all in a theme that is supposed to be more advanced than regular Lego which has no such colour coding on the outside. How do kids even complete the model after building the colour coded inner structure I wonder? It doesn't bother me THAT much (some recent new parts make up for it ), in fact I am building my current WIP MOC using current colour codes just to make it look more like an official set. But it still just seems rather silly to me. Paying 300 euro for a set only to have to swap out many parts with ones from my own collection only makes the set less appealing to me and quite needlessly so when it is meant to be a more advance build. The yellow axles however have been used to great effect on the BWE. But then it's only good when the part of the model you are making is yellow. But I don't think pins and axles are necessarily the worst offenders. ALL colour coded gears look awful, and the new red 16 tooth clutch gear only comes in red so no, I can't just replace that one with another colour even if I wanted to. Another worse offender than pins and axles is the 5x7 and 5x11 frames. Maybe that's not colour coding as such, but they only come in LBG, which I have yet to need them in that colour. They are huge pieces so you can always find them in a pile of parts very quickly no matter what colour they are, and you can always find them quickly in a complete model. Just look at those 5x7 frames on 42030. They stick out like a sore thumb and you can't replace them with another colour either. I was 9 when I built 8880, had no problems with that either. But didn't 8043 have colour vomit?
  25. allanp
    Yesterday it hit about 35 degrees C outside, felt hotter in my Lego room (well, lego corner of a room).
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