allanp

Yup, bought some parts recently using it. Much better!

The packaging is really nice with the box that lifts off the top and you see 4 new parts right away (the wheels) which I think is a small nod to the still far better mid 90s packing like 8880, where you get to see all the parts without having to open the box, just lift the lid. This model is slowly growing on me, it really does look gorgeous and I really do love those new wheels and arches, but the arches aren't all that reusable in MOCs in orange and there is still that completely unrealistic geabox/steering/suspention and poor performance/weak differential and CV joints. I dunno man. It's entirely style and no substance. It is growing on me as I am beginning to appreciate it more for what it is and not the missed fantastic opporunity it could have been to finally give us the reasitic mechanics of a car, but right now I still don't see me buying it.

Whooops! In trying to reply to this I accidentally pressed the report button! Anywho, I guess us Technic fans are just a more loyal bunch of folk than the others

You don't always have to be able to quantify why you want something. Not everything can be reduced to a mathematical equaltion like that. I personally don't think the awesome new wheels and rather nice box are worth the price of the set but that's just me. If you want it then buy it and enjoy it and don't let the nay-sayers tell you otherwise

It's very hard to tell. From my limited knowledge of Lego education, Lego education sets isn't the most efficient way to build up a collection. I would look at regular sets like the 42042 crawler crane and 42043 Arocs to get lots of parts and mindstorms nxt for programmable electronics. You may also pick up some second hand bargains on ebay, especially people selling off their entire collction which happens from time to time. May I ask how much you already own and how much experience you have with designing and building your own creations?

Of all the models mentioned I find it difficult to feel enthusiastic about them because you guys don't say anything about them. Oh, it's a trike, it's a giant dump truck or a snow groomer. So what? If these were sets they could be great or completely terrible. Just saying what they are doesn't allow the reader into your imagination to see what's so special about your version of the model. So sell your ideas guys, make a case for your proposed set idea and say why you think it could be great. Does your trike have new wheels or a new chrome engine block piece and a chrome handle bar piece? Does it have a sequential transmission operated by the foot peddle? Does your dump truck have a new telescopic pneumatic cylinder and new wheels with inbuild planetary gear reduction and 3 different steering modes? Does your snow groomer have a cup holder? Sell it guys sell it!

Well first you need to decide what you want your factory to make. Keet it very simply and always ask yourself "how could a device made from lego connect these two pieces together?".

Yeah, because nothing spells the height of security like the current cereal box! Besides the stores I see them in don't have the security device, they have staff!

I think a grand father clock/cockoo clock would make an excellent creator expert set. It would have all the technic mechanics in a brick built case.

Doesn't matter if it's liscenced or original so long as the liscence doesn't bump up the price too much. An Aventador in black, white or metallic silver would be nice, or a landrover in dark blue, black or red. A full body done very well can look better than a skeletal body as long as it doesn't look like a patchwork of panels with lots of gaps. 1:8 Doesn't matter, whatever serves the model best. An engine that's appropriate to the car. Not too concerned with realistic crank layout but it would be a nice authentic touch to have. Compared to other things it's a low priority. Remote control is a nice IDEA, but it usually comes at too high cost, not only in terms of the price of the set but also in terms of functionality and mechanical authenticity. Whilst the IDEA of RC is great, it's never been worth the cost in all other aspects IMHO. Had they kept up standards of complexity and mechanical authenticity in set that have been RC then I'de probably feel more love for RC. PF functions are nice but they have to compliment the mechanical authenticity that should already be there, not replace it. Which of these features matter to you? Brakes 7/10 Four wheel steering depends on the car. For the Porsche that has it in real life 8/10 Windshield wipers 1/10 Active aerodynamics 1/10 Adjustable seats 6/10 Realistic suspension geometry, I.E. Ackerman correction, 10/10 caster, 7/10 kingpin inclination, 7/10 a suspension type that is not double wishbone. 8/10 Convertible top depends on the car Locking or limited slip differentials depends on the car. If it was a motorised 4x4 off-roader then it would matter more than a non-motorised on road car. Is a manual gearbox fine, or would some kind of sequential gearbox be preferred? They should get the current gearbox right first (6 clutch gears of different sizes) before worrying about other add-ons. Extra steering knob, or just cockpit steering? Both would be nice but cockpit steering is most important. What kind of new parts would you want? I think you guys already know so you may skip this part. For those that don't, 5 or 6 gearbox clutch gears in 5 or 6 different sizes (not just the 16t we have now which is totally unrealistic), 8880 style cv joints, longer steering arms with ackerman geometry, stronder diffs utilising a 36t double bevel gear and much stronger (more positive) connection between the inner gears and the half shafts. If gearbox is to be sequenTial then a new cam piece (that could be fixed to a 0.5x3 pulley at 6 different angles) to change gears and an indexing lever would be great. Everything good about the model should be emphasised. Standard box is fine. I want an ultimate model, not an ultimate box. Having said that I would pay extra for a return to 8880 style packaging. Regular manual is fine. Price depends on the model and what new parts it has. DEFFINATELY NON colour coded parts. B model is nice to have but not if it means compromising the A model in any way.

I remember the test car being in stores as late as 1993. Of course Lego release far more sets per year now than back then so I guess they need the shelf space.

Of course the question is, what things would you like Jim to address in his review? For me my questions are: What makes this set carry the 16+ symbol? It isn't the largest or the most complex set to date, so why the 16+ age thing? What size of construction can fit inside the new wheels for when making custom steering and suspension geometries? 5x3? 7x3? 7x5? How deep are they? I would also like to ask how mechanically authentic it is, but I can tell that for myself from the pictures and besides, Jim can't go pointing out too many negative aspects or they'll stop sending him free sets!

They are not really a cube shape though are they

So that's why the female CV part is made of utterly butterly!

It is strange that you are only getting 40 psi with my compressor. Might sound weird but have you tried running it the other direction? For whatever reason some individual pumps don't seem to work so well when the crank is turned one way but work fine when turned the other. Make sure the compression stroke of each pump is on the outside of the pump (right crank turns counter clockwise, left crank turns clockwise) and that the hoses are not trying to bend the pump. I have got over 60 psi with this compressor with very little waiting times. Though I don't yet own enough of the newer slightly longer pumps to try it with those, only the older ones.

Oh right. Never mind

So how do you get this: "So not in stores in the US. Ok, thanks!" from this: "will initially be available at shop.LEGO.com from June 1st, 2016, as well as in the 13 LEGO stores throughout Germany and Austria. It will be available in other stores from August 1st, 2016." when it clearly says this: "It will be available in other stores from August 1st, 2016."

Sometimes the rubber/silicone seals can degrade and "dry out". It may be possible to recondition the seals with some seal safe lubricant. Do NOT use anything petrolium or solvent based.

I prefer 95 - 96 the silicone drive belt years.

Yeah I thought it was the suspension links that were rotated the wrong way for aerodynamics but I'm only going on memory.

1999. Why you no google?!

Two updates so soon? This makes me very happy! Time to grab a coffee and enjoy a good read!

Could you use the large turntable as a central bevel gear like you would find on a merry go round?

1. Possible but you will get 7.2 volts instead of 9. 2. can't see why not. Alternative option for questions 1 and 2, buy a control center 2 from bricklink, not too exspensive. http://www.bricklink.com/search.asp?colorID=11&itemID=3595 3. Last time I checked (about a year ago) my original pen that came with it still works!!!! 4. Yes.

Yup, definately for 16+ builders. But here's a thought, if people don't like the many steps why not just skip ahead a few pages at a time?