dr_spock

They are cute like chibi. They have that 7725 feel to them.

That's great. Love the go big or go home build. Our Amtrak AEM7 electrics were based on the Rc4.

Thanks. With COVID-19, I am thinking of switching that PU color sensor to distance detection mode for the speed control like the closer the person is to the sensor, the faster it goes. It'll be no touching my LEGO. Although, our LUG events are cancelling. Yes, that is a Baldwin Centipede locomotive. Good train spotting. Thanks.

I do a bit of everything. I build sets, MODs, MOCs, collect, make my own parts, etc. I would have an idea in my head and I would build off that. I make changes on the fly based on what parts I have on hand (or I could easily find in my somewhat sorted collection of parts). I Bricklinked parts to make a train before and the wait was a momentum killer. Back when the LEGO Stores had the AFOL displays, I would build something based on what's on their Pick A Brick wall. Lots of time customers ask the Store how they can buy or build that. Make it easier if they don't have to hunt down rare pieces. Plus drive some PAB sales if possible.

The shutdown on lost connection seems like it is more for the world of RC drones than toy trains. I should try putting the second PU remote in one of the train's cars so it is always near by with a signal to PU hub.

Some more toying around. Colour sensor locomotive throttle. Who said push trains aren't fun? Color sensor mounting point in train base plate of the locomotive throttle. When we run several trains closely spaced on the same track at events, I don't like taking my eyes off the train to look at the PU App screen. I could use the PU remote but the PU App may be needed for special programmed controls like 2 PF train motors in the same engine. Using the tilt sensor in the smart device seems to work as an alternative physical control. A 3D printer is quite useful for inexpensive custom adapters when you are too broke after acquiring all those PF train motors to replace them with PU train motors.

You can use this block to display what the color sensor is detecting. It shows a dot of the color detected in the upper right hand of the block if I recall.

Another fun set of vignette builds and signature monkeys.

I stuck sensor up through the square hole from the bottom of the train base plate. I held it in place with right angle bracket and a modified 1x2 plate with door rail. To help diag issues, you can use the report current color seen by sensor block in the app to show you what color the sensor is seeing as you roll your sensored locomotive along the track.

The quick easy way is to make a Powered UP tender to push it.

How did you get the restaurant to let you run a train through?

Yes, he's wondering the reduction of hospitals in CITY. Looking at the bigger picture. Since the release of Friends in 2012, CITY had one hospital set. Friends had at least 4 hospital sets (2 people and 2 animals). Heartlake seem to get some priority on the company's hospital set designers.

Nice. I haven't seen those trucks around lately. Not sure having correct postage STAMPs is that critical. In the T&Cs, LEGO® reserves the rights to modify your idea/design for production should it make it that far. Good luck.

Don't forget to add LEGO® Friends hospitals to the release cycle now. I think when Friends has one, City doesn't and vice versa. You can look on brickset.com at the release years of City and Friends hospital sets. Let us know if there is a pattern to this madness: https://brickset.com/sets/theme-Friends https://brickset.com/sets/theme-City

How much flash space is on the version of the STM32 used in the PU hub? Is it 16K?

In wholesale, the larger the quantities you buy, the bigger the discount. I guess it's selling well for the manufacturer. Do retailers sell LEGO on consignment? Can unsold product be returned for a credit?

I use Dupont connectors and barrel plugs. I can't bring myself to cut a perfectly good PF cable. I've 3D printed PF connectors found on Thingiverse.com. it took a few tries to get the size perfect. It's a bit of work to wire them too.

It looks like that adapter cable will lower the voltage but they don't tell you to what voltage in the product description. Maybe best to measure it with a multimeter before hooking up the LEDs. Here is another way to power your own LEDs. Pulling power from the Power Functions IR receiver. The resistor value to use for LEDs can be calculated from here: LED Series Resistor Calculator Do-It-Yourself LEGO LED Light by dr_spock_888, on Flickr

Nice to see you're getting good use out of my silly MOCs. I did one powered by the wheels with a few gears in the bogie. It could probably fit into your build.

. Did the cat sit on the tracks? Watch out for cat hair getting into your LEGO® train motor and bogie axles.

You can add another current limiting resistor in series to the LEDs account for the 9V. Or maybe use a 5V voltage regulator such as a 7805.

60254 truck pulling the camper trailer from 60182.

Duplo bricks may fill the shot better in the field of view used than system bricks?

I would consider Friends (2012-2017) before the 5 core minidolls got a "makeover" in 2018 as classic Friends. Technic has always been popular outside of North America.

I don't think you have to float the middle axle. The wheel size and spacing should go fine around standard LEGO R40 curves as is.