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RohanBeckett

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by RohanBeckett

  1. always very polished, informative video reviews! You come across as being very 'honest' about them, despite some of the smaller sets being rather less true to the ideal of 'technic' (ie: not many functions) just the right amount of humour, and hamsters in them too, to add a smile here and there... for non-narrated video reviews, it really does add a lot of personality to your videos!
  2. one of the reasons I think Rebricker, Blakbird, and the others are so 'ok' with this, is that the man himself, in the video, openly advocates that people attempt to copy others first - "That way you learn faster" But on the flip side, it's one of the reasons he doesn't reveal everything.. as it does provide a *bit* of a challenge to anyone who does! :)
  3. Nice! I don't have that set.. but currently have 2 hours to decide if I want to bid on one on ebay australia.. that's currently going for AUD$26.. postage would make it $40... which is about EU$27 Always liked the look of this one, and I have it's spiritual-studless successor: the 2004's 4WD http://brickset.com/sets/8435-1/4WD ...but budget is tight at the moment.. (building too many GBC's! :)
  4. Well done! with all this work - it really gives you an insight into the creator - yet I sometimes still can't fathom how he comes up with the ideas, how much prototyping must happen (we do see that in some of his videos), and also, the amount of parts he must have, and be continually ordering!!
  5. only oxy action and water... no HP used at all. I'm sure even in Poland, at the peak of summer, you'd get enough Sunlight/UV light to cause *some* reaction, and improvement... otherwise, as mentioned before, you might need to find a UV Lamp.
  6. I've posted this before, but here's what an 2 hours in the Australian Sun, with 1 Tablespoon of 'Napisan Oxy Action' laundry powder in about 2ltrs of water can achieve. This one shows a baseplate deliberately left half in the solution - for around 30 minutes
  7. I have the last one - they are hard plastic - and on the RC Buggy Cars, are lots of fun to drift around floorboards/tiles, and even asphalt (although of course that wears them down a bit)
  8. although you can't use this technique within the ball joint, check out this method of reinforcing the U-joint's end (where you had a split)
  9. I have tilted rotors 65% complete.. just by studying video, and an incomplete design I found on another forum I got a bit frustrated with it (rotors kept clashing), so it's sat on a shelf for a few months would love your design to compare how close I got! :) and I finally got around to starting my brick factory - first 5 videos done! :) I've also been meaning to do instructions (or at least parts list) for Catch and Lift.. that's a nice easy/reliable one! and I've collected most parts for cup to cup... hope to start that in the next month. (welcome to the madhouse! ;) RB
  10. that's easy.. one is yellow, and cheap ...the other is red, and VASTLY overpriced on the second hand market...
  11. Nice MOC! I've been tempted to try doing MY car - Subaru Outback 02... but not sure I could pull off the curves!
  12. I can second this - Eucalyptus Oil is great at getting most gluey/gummy residue from lots of surfaces, without damage... well.. the smell will hang around for a bit - but a wash with warm soapy water will get rid of that too! RB
  13. We'll be discussing this in the facebook group, and on email shortly. RB
  14. it's usually a tight fit to push something over those tread links.. look carefully, and you'll see the tread is slightly bend, when in the hole... with an application like this, it's not going to fall out any time soon...
  15. I find rubbing the hoses between thumb and forefinger for 5-10 seconds, softens them up a bit, and makes them slip on a bit easier... you could try dipping the ends into a glass of hot water for a short time, too.. but be careful to flick them dry, to get all the moisture out of the tube
  16. you could have stuck those leftover parts somewhere underneath, and claimed 100%... no one would know!
  17. if they can rotate.. they can be pulled out :) Fairly certain it was done for Juniorization... My black one was in this set - http://alpha.bricklink.com/pages/clone/catalogitem.page?S=7244-1 (Speedboat) and I guess it meant kids didn't have to worry about losing the pins - as they are essential for the strength of the build - especially for an active model, like this boat.
  18. You can extend the boom, and the winch adjusts automatically... to stay level every other crane that Lego has done... extend the boom.. and the hook goes up!
  19. Brute force! <flexes Hulk Muscles> oh... and helped by a decent pair of pliers.. twisted, and ripped it out... totally destroyed the pin.. but I didn't care.. ended up with another regular frame to use
  20. Yes to DrJB - it made the technic frames more 'kid proof'.. I got a 2nd hand one, but the pins were all bent and twisted.. I had to destroy them to remove them, but fortunately, didn't damage the frame, and I could rebuild the set, with regular pins. I actually gave away all my ancient, original black pins, as I hated building (and pull apart) my vintage models with those ones.. I'm not that much of a purist that I care about them
  21. chain link with 2 studs is the older type, from the early 70's, before the 'modern' technic came into being. It ONLY works with old style gears, and is quite loose/sloppy
  22. the one... the only..... Philo! http://www.philohome...s/motorcomp.htm
  23. well, if you have a lot of load, that's rubbing over a single point... or moving fast... I wouldn't be surprised if, after a bit of use, you started seeing grooves cut into the ABS plastic a wider, thicker string/line/cord might be safer - that's why Lego use the thicker, braided string for their heavy-load applications, like cranes, vs the thinner string for basic applications such as car winches, which usually are only wound around a single drum, and have much lower load
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