Ashi Valkoinen

Other told that it's a quite good MOC and usage of parts, so I will reveal the problems (the problems being problems for ME) -Driver's cab window on the side: on real train the bottom of the window is in line with the bottom of the front window. In your desing, this side window goes below that line with one brick. Replacing slope 1*2*3 with 1*2*2 will fix this problem (if I'm not wrong, at this stage of planning it doesn't matter if a part exist or not). -I think those boffers are quite long - they are good as model, but attaching everything else to this DMU on LEGO tracks will be impossible. If it will run only in solo, doesn't problem. -White part on the side is too high - using the photo you attached as reference it should be one plates lower. I know that the height of the train is fixed because of front SNOT-techniques, raising the height of the windows with one plate (using trans clear plate 1×2) may solve this. -There is no dark green gap between the large and small windows on the side, you easely can fit one more studs, Bo'Bo' trains can exceed 64 stud length without problems. Hope, I wrote something useful...

I was afraid, tha metroliner and horizon will crash. At 0:45, they did. :) However, great layout. :)

Why don't you make some test runs? You buy two or three 9V batteries, and run your train at home. From two or three measurements you can estimate the exhibition battery needs. :)

Some of our club members do use eneloop batteries, as far as I know there wasn't any trouble with them.

LEGO point include the yellow lever for the switch - do your waggons pass them without being stucked by the lever? :) Nobody said that one scale is ultimately good or bad. For some purposes 8W is better (good compromise for more details and saving on bricks), for some 6W (childrens' toy, easier energy.supply) or 10W (much more detail, realistic scale).

LEGO train track gauge is not 5 studs, but 4.85 studs. Whatever, with our 8W trains we are proportional to the distance between the flange of the wheels, which is 3 mm less than that 4.85 studs. 10W is not untouchable, but you can't build some train in 10W because of its length, it simply can't go on switches or curves. But for shorter locomotives and passanger cars it's the best choice to put all the details on! Anybody can build in 10W on his/her own, but if you are building in a team, where it's important to be proportional to each other, and others would like to build trains unpossible in 10W (for example, 26 metres long open freight waggon Rgs or RailJet Amfpz car), 8W is a better choice.

Here in MLVK (Hungarian LEGO-Railway Community) we made our votes for 8W building. In general we attend exhibitons organised by Model Railway groups (the traditional railway modeling, like H0 or TT) and we are building real life related trains. Why 8W? The gauge of the LEGO train track (38 mm) and the distance between the wheels (34 mm) are not the same. This different allows the LEGO boogies to run swift on the curved tracks, too. An avarage train in Hungary has its width between 2800 and 3000 mm-s. That means the trains' width is about the double of the normal gauge (1435 mm). Using 8W means 64 mm-es, which is almost the double of the distance between the wheels on one axle (34 mm). Using 38 mm as standard would mean 9W trains, which are quite hard or impossible to build because of the curves. We call this building scale 8WN, as 8-Wide Normal. We also use 8WS (8-Wide Shortened) for the trains are shorter compared to the real one (for example, one window missing because of length problems). We also use 8WT (8-Wide Trams). In this case the LEGO-models are proportional to the gauge (38 mm). Being proportional to the wheel distance (34 mm) mean building 7W trams, but after some building issues we decided to keep trams 8W, however, they are not proportional to our trains anymore. 8WN and 8WS trains are scaled to real trains between 1:41-1:44, depending on the real width of the train. In 8W you can build a lot of things in, you can motorise functions easier, you can hide the boogies with tiles, you can build much more details in. Disadvantage is the large amount of bricks needed (the ratio 8/6 in three dimensions mean 2.37× more bricks needed), the building difficulties because of the tight curves and powering longer trains, which could be easely up to 3-4 kilogramms.

Great design! Am I right that modified points will be built into the tunnel?

Updated list of my train: (MÁV - Hungarian State Railway Company, train names are links to BS folders) MÁV Stadler FLIRT EMU: MÁV Bombardier Talent EMU: MÁV M47 "Dacia" diesel shunting locomotive: MÁV V63 "Gigant" electric locomotive: MÁV Siemens Taurus electric locomotive: MÁV Apee IC waggon (1st class): 2 MÁV Bpee IC waggon (2nd class): ÖBB Ampz IC waggon (1st class): Once, long time ago I did own a 7897 Passanger Train, but years ago I gave it to a friend's little brother,

Hello Haddock, Is it not easier (and cheaper) to buy four power supply units (with current limitation 5 Amps), and plug each of the 4 9V speed regulators?

Hi, we use power supply units instead of the supply unit sold with the 9V speed regulator here in Hungary since 2011. Using MW: MW7H380GTGS power supply unit, putting out 3 Amps to the track at 9V seems to be enough to drive trains with 4 or even with 8 train motors. At one of our exhibiton we left a switch in wrong direction, all the four engines with 8 9V motors and up to 2-3 kg accelerated quick. The power supply unit can drive my Stadler FLIRT EMU, which uses four motors (two 9V, both of them attached their neighbour 9V motor) and has 4 kg weigh, if there are regular current support around the loop of track. Maybe if I put two FLIRT EMUs together, I have to change the power supply unit. :)

Hey all, I'd like to share a new LDD MOC with you, unfortunately it's only LDD, but I hope after the "still LDD-MOC Railjet" I can build this hungarian train too. This new train is the hungarian BVmot EMU, or "Samu", as it is called between railway workers. http://upload.wikime...atabanya001.jpg This is a 20 years old engine designed for Intercity trains, which were also launched about twenty years ago in Hungary. Urfortunately, the State Railway ran out of money this time, and only three of these trains were built and bought. I like this engine because its front part is complex and hard to build from LEGO-bricks - the sloped strips and front makes is hard to built. So, I got my LDD and tried to model this train, too. Results: Pantographs are not designed, putting a minifig hand into a 3 mm rigid hose is not allowed in LDD. :) Missing cheese slopes won't fit in LDD, but will fit in reality: Front view: Here is the BS-gallery: https://brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=539496 Please leave your critics here. :)

Hello, nice to see your Railjet again, fortunately I had the chance to see it in details on Kidsfest. As I told you there, nice work, a little sad for me, that the train in 7W and not 8W. :) What do you think about the czech railjets the CD bought a month ago?

Great train Sergio, good to see some new stuff from you. :) Question: 1. What is holding on the front of the train the SNOT-ted, 1×2×2/3 cheese slopes? I've an idea for the center one, but the two on the sides are challenging. I guess maybe the 1×1 plate with horizontal clip (narrow) may fit in the bottom of those cheese slopes, but please let me know about the solution. :) Critics: 1. It's a great train, however, I think it deserves a better pantograph solution. Maybe this is your own and unique, but some better looking, known solutions will better fit for the train (ok, it's subjective). 2. If we want to go into details (why not?). the front window is to small on your modell. The bottom of that window is in line with the driver's cab's window, but the top of it is lower. I'm sure you can fix it, if it bothers you too. :P 3. Front lights, if you don't want to make them working with PF-leds, they deserve more realistic solution. I mean no offense, of course, because it's one of the best train models built from LEGO-bricks I've seen, I just wrote down my opinion. ;)

Yes, those photos were taken by one of our LUG member, "kvp". He was only a visitor there, however, he has a great train stuff at home (why he is not on EB? )It was a really great chance for me to show my trains to Europe (I think, hungarian builders are not so known in Europe), and I had a lot of discussion with others involved in LEGO trains.

Hope, you will make a try with real snow... :) Great waggon, I really like the "Friends" design of it.

Thanks for both of you. Here is a two-minutes long video about my Stadler FLIRT and Siemens Taurus trains, participating KidsFest 2013 in Vienna:

I've almost forgotten this topic, but fortunately I found it! Really nice job, unfortunately I had no way to see it. What is your plan to build next?

Thanks for all of you. If you see anything to change, modify, let me know. :) Here is the now-public BS-gallery of my train station, including WIP photos. http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=533929

And when I finished the new version of it (Hungary ordered Stadler FLIRTs again, but they will get blue coloring), the coupled FLIRTs will be 3.2 metres long. :D

Great 6W loco! I really like it's simple design and colouring. One advice: maybe you'll find the PF-M motor won't be enough for more waggons to pull, and hiding the IR-reciever under the roof will significantly decrease the distance you can control the loco from. I advise two build the reciever fix in the roof and leave the other part of the roof removeable to change batteries.

1.6 metres long, but only one unit. :)

I was away from EuroBrick forums for two months - but fortunately I have spent this time with building my new train stations and show it at various displays in Hungary. That means I have succesfully finished it, I would like two show a couple of pictures with small descriptions. 1. Close view to my station. Platforms are numbered from right to left 1-4. The tracks on the right have regular distance between each other, building geometry with the "switch - straight - switch" method. The track on left are not regular, on the first end after the point comes two straight and one curve, at the other end after the point comes on curve, some straights, then curve-straight-curve part. The generated 4 stud gap is filled with one flexible track segment. 2. Signals in front of the station. The small bridge built from "support" parts belongs to the station. Signals are working, with polarity reversals all hungarian signs (one red, one yellow, one green, yellow-yellow, yellow-green) can be displayed. The platforms have light built in, the PF-LED cable is connected to the baseplate via the blue pillars, and gets power from the connection on the edge of the baseplate (on the left side you can see it). 3. View from the other end. You can see in the front my modified track connection. Enjoy and please leave your comments and critics. And a video of my Stadler FLIRT train, running on the layout:

No doubt, this is an excellent 6W passanger train, however, I add some suggestions to improve it. For example, the pantograph design is well known and nice, but the lower part is missing (for me). Using a T-shaped bar and one more 4-5L hose per pantograph will improve a lot. The other part I don't like so much are the doors. As I see, all the doors are 2 studs wide, it can be replaced with five plates in SNOT. SNOT can easely made by blue brick 1×1 with one stud on side, a red plate - 1×2 trans clear brick - red tile combination could improve the look of the doors. Of course, these are little things, but think about it. :)

After our last exhibiton I decided to renew my train station, especially the track ballast under curves and points. The idea was to fill the baseplate between the tracks with tan bricks imitating the sand and small grail used in freshly renewed stations in Hungary. (Like this one: http://iho.hu/img/galery/130429-kelenfold.jpg ) After about 7 to 8 hours work I finished only 4 pieces of 48*48 baseplates of my station,thanks to I have used non-ideal solutions during first building because the lack of some parts. Here it is: I decided to remove the long curved track segment from platform four (on the right), and I have built in a straight piece of track after the point, then the curved piece. Because the straight track segment is not paralell with the main track, it is shortened by one stud. The distance between the tracks of platform 3 and 4 is 14 studs. To solve the problem of shortening I have built in a 1×1 tile to fill the gap: The distance between track segments is 2 studs, because it will be shortened on the other end. The inner rail keeps waggons from derailing, however, I don't think they will, because those tiles are perfectly fitting to the tracks, It's not problem, that the current for 9V system doesn't go through the gap, because this rail is powered from both ends (not on the picture). I've built a small signal tower, on the top of a point-switching mechanism: The point between platform 1 and 2 got motorised, because the operator section for my station is at the other end of the station. Sometimes the main track (number 2) must be cut from 9V, and I can switch the point front of me by hand, the other one by this mechanism. Please leave your critics here, I'll add more pictures after I finished with other baseplates.