Ashi Valkoinen

Maybe forget this type pf track ballasting (wedge plates connected to the bottom of the track elements), and place plates-tiles under curved track parts.

I had an another IR reciever, and with this one my train worked, so the first one had something problem. On of my LUGfriends said, that blinking output indicates short circuits placed on the IR reciever. The reason, why it blinked only for one direction was that the output metallic connection parts were damaged, but not all, just two of them. Maybe I can use it for trains need only one output...

Hi, I have some problem with the PF-system in my Stadler FLIRT train. Recently I've built in the rechargeable battery box to the train, there is a PF-reciever connected to it. On the two outputs of the Reciever there are the indoor lights and on the other front/end lights (these LEDs are modified to lit only one of the pair, depending on polarity, described in detail in Railbricks 9, page 21). On our last exhibiton there was no problem, but at home, with switched on indoor light when I turn on the front/end lights, all lights start blinking with time period 1s on, 1s off. This stops immiaedetely when I turn off front/end lights. In addition, this happens only when I turn on front/end lights in one direction, on the other one, there is no problem! First I thought, it is because of the modified pair of LEDs, but after disconnecting them from the reciever and placing unmodded ones on the output, blinking will start again. It only happens, if I turn on indoor light and AFTER these one turning of front/end lights. I can't decide, what has gone wrong, but I can't make it work.

Our trains in MLVK are quite longer than 34 stud, we build in 8W, (in 1:40-1:42 scale), passanger waggons are around 56-64 studs. If you run only your shorter trains on the layout, there wont be problem, but if at some club event other people could run their trains on the layout, it might cause derailment.

Hi! I really like the geometry of your layout. (It's to small for my long trains, but doesn't matter :D ). Please be aware of the 9V shortcuit you made with this geometry, it's enough to put a single pices of paper or duct tape between the track pieces. It's cool that there are two levels of track in the layout, You can add some quite large trees, rocks, bushes as trackside objects. I recommend you to use lgb, lg, vlg 1×1 plates and round plates betwen the brown sleepers to vary the appearence of the ballast, like this: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/AshiValkoinen/Exhibitions/20130412-NyitraMLYNY/img_20130413_103330.jpg And one more advise: we noticed, that placing sloping trains track in curves makes some larger trains (with larger distances between boogies) derail. So if you run larger trains at this layout in Utrecht, be careful, or place some plaxiglas around the table. :)

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10. righty - 3 11. Kristel - 2

Catenary we use on exhibitons: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/AshiValkoinen/OtherLEGO/HUNLTCpics/img_0750.jpg We set up them close to each other above curves and switches (1 pole/one and half, two train track segments), but not so close above straight (1 pole/4-5 track segments). In reality in Hungary poles are set up 75 metres fr from each other, in our scale (~1:42) it would mean 1 pole/13-14 track segments.

Me, too, I always care for realism and functionality. http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/AshiValkoinen/2011NewMOCs/StadlerFLIRTnew/img_1625.jpg

"Thanks" to my morethantwoweeks illness I had time to design my new hungarian rail-related train in LEGO Digital Designer. I really hope that I can finish this train in 2013. After my modern electric motor units as Stadler FLIRT and Bombardier Talent and after my modern IC waggons I decided to design a modern train again: the ÖBB RailJet. The whole train in LDD: At this moment I'm satisfied with the two Economy-class Bmpz waggons and the Business+Premium class Afmz car. The 1116 RailJet Taurus design is built after my Hungarian Taurus, however, I made some little upgrades to make it a better model. Fortunately I could manage the orange strips around the doors using a lot of SNOT-technique, so I don't have to use stickers around all the doors. The only place where I'll need sticker is the "B" end of the locomotive, I could not solve to continue the narrow dbg strip to the front of the loco. Door SNOT-solution: To make indoors authentic the following .pdf helped me a lot (it's hungarian, but figures could be used by anybody who wants to build this train): http://vasutgepeszet...03_vegleges.pdf Of course I could not build all seats and windows because of lenght problems. The waggons are 57 studs long, however, they have to be at least 68 studs long. During our last exhibition I faced many problems with my long passanger cars, so I decided to design my RJ to be troubleproof.

I think the LEGO train track won't last long time in the garden. However it's not LEGO, if you want to run your LEGO trains in the garden on pernament layout, I advice to see all the pics in this gallery, how to build pernament train track: https://picasaweb.google.com/104121300077685694508/VasbetonAljzatokGyartasa?noredirect=1

Dear Annie, Part list for one catenary pole: Window 1 x 2 x 3 Flat Front | green | 7 Brick 1×2 | green | 1 (+1)* Hinge Plate 1 x 2 Locking with 2 Fingers On End | dark bluish gray | 2 Hinge Cylinder 1 x 2 Locking with 1 Finger and Axle Hole On Ends | black | 2 Minifig, Weapon Lance | black | 1 Hose, Soft 3mm D. 5L | black | 2 Hand | black | 2 Black Bar 1L with Clip Mechanical Claw | black | 1 If you build a double-pole between two paralell lines (8 studs between tracks), except the first two lots you need double quantities. *The standard gabarite's height used by us is 18 bricks. The six 1×2×3 windows guarantee this height, If the track ballast's height is one brick, we use an another 1×2 brick under the windows. (The original catenary pole design belongs Balázs Farkas, one of the HUNLTC members.)

In 2011, after out third exhibition we faced the same problem. We had a lot of locomotives and motor units with pantographs, but we did not have catenary for it. After that we accepted to build catenary for next HUNLTC event. All of the poles are designed like this. And the catenary was followed by ballasted tracks. Not only the trains are important, the enviroment can impress both the events' visitors and the AFOL community. Picture: catenary and track ballast: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/AshiValkoinen/OtherLEGO/img_2286.jpg

Thanks for all of you. :) I hope that I could use this coupling-technique in some other MOCs, like 8W electric motor units and trams (as hungarian Siemens Combino).

It won't work, you need a conversion cable between the PF and 9V train motor (conversion cables have one PF-end, and one 9V/PF end), the 9V/PF-end have to be placed on the 9V motor, the other end connected to the PF-train motor. For lights you need the conversion cable, too. See this video, lights working from 9V motor:

Indexed by Moderator After a long time I'd like to introduce my new train MOC, which one is actually my first 6-wide train, the narrow-gauge Stadler GTW. Fig.1: The whole train on brick-built train track. The second meeting in 2012 of hungarian LEGO users group (MALUG) was held last weekend in Budapest. Before this event on of our LUG members called others to build narrow gauge vechiles for the meeting. After thinking about my possibilities and favourited vechiles I started to build the first popular vechile of Stadler, the GTW. The coloring of this train is not autenthic, there are no OBB/SBB colored GTWs in narrow gauge, but I had only red and white bricks to use. The real challenge was to build the PF-system into the train and make it able to run on narrow-gauge train track (the curved track pieces from Indiana Jones sets in dark bluish gray and from Space sets in black). The LUG member called others to build narrow-gauge vechiles set up a test-track for all trains, built from this curved track pieces, including two S-turns. That was the test-track (with the little green train): http://www.brickshel...11/dsc_1882.jpg Firstly I've realized, that I've had to build one and half windows less to the modell then the original train. The radius of these curve is 27 stud, and my train actual length is 90 studs. The middle-section contains two PF M-motors, both of them are driving one axle via 12 tooth-gear wheels. One of the low-floor sections contains the battery box and the IR-reciever. The train has two yellow front lights on each end, PF leds' cables are hidden in the roof. Fig.2: Driven axles and coupling solution for the train. Left side coupled, right disconnected. The coupling enables about 75° turnout and looks like closed until 30° turnout. Fig.3: Turnout. However I did not have test track for the meeting, the train succeded to run on the test track. The most 'engineering' success for me is the coupling solution. Using SNOT slopes by the coupling looks really great, they are avaliable in lot of colors, and you don't need rubber. This method will work for trains with Jacobs-boogies, too, the only difference is, that the middle section is narrower. The front part of the train is built of prepared modules, it can be repared, changed without getting of the train from the rails. Fig.4: Modules forming the train front with power functions lights built in. Hope you enjoyed, please comment you critics here. AV

Ohh, won't work. Except one exhibition I've never met perfect conditions and flat tracks. Thanks, there is a small description in my MOC topic about this creation. Maybe someday I'll find a working and closed solution (not traditional close-coupling) for the couplings between train sections.

What is the maximal length between the Jacobs-boogie and normal boogie, if I try to build the first version? (Picture one in the first post) Is it possible to use this technique with three Jacobs-boogies in a row? If it works, maybe I'll make a try on my Stadler FLIRT.

I've built the PF-LED-lights into most of my trains. They function as headlight, end light and indoor light. I really like this part, however, at my first order I've only ordered two pairs of these leds, after the order I made a "two week" test, the leds were lighting without switched off. These first pairs perfectly work today, after two years. One of our LTC members, kvp, discovered a very useful modding: with a little circuit modification you can modify your PF-LED to be polarity-sensitive: only on ot the leds will turn on for + polarity current, and the other led will turn on for - polarity current. It can be used by signal and by trains with direction-depending lights. Here is a review in Railbrick 9: (attention, flash content) http://railbricks.com/media/rb9/ Page 21. (And this year buying PF-LED by LUGBULK was a very good idea. :) )

Great job, I won't need my girlfriend's Vista anymore! It perfectly works on Ubuntu 11.10!

31.) 4 votes 12.) 3 votes

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How would like to build this? http://www.bahnbilder.de/1024/stadler-dosto-kiss-fuer-oesterreichische-531837.jpg Westbahn Stadler Dosto

Thank you very much. Realism is very important to our LTC, we enjoy to build realistic train models and layout. Sometimes we do exhibitions with train modeller clubs, we run quite few original LEGO trains from sets on our display. This type catenary is a creation of our member, Farkas Balázs ( http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?m=vbazsa ). It's really good accessory for 10-20-... pieces of track. Otherwise, we have many electric locos and motor units, simply I can't imagine them without catenary. :) http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/AshiValkoinen/Exhibitions/2013-11-01-KidsFest/img_3028.jpg Thank you!

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