Ashi Valkoinen

Thanks for reply! My FLIRT isn't finished yet, the roof details waiting for PF installing. (I don't have enought money :C) After placing the IR recievers, rechargeable battery and PF wires I will make the final roof design. You are right, I have to work with the roof and need new, more realistic pantogrpahs, too. During installing PF I plan to build the first and last boogies closer to the train ends and create a working coupling with magnets - of course foir my second FLIRT. :) The picture you linked to the forum was taken near to train stop "Szár", this is a wonderful place for taking photos, I travel trought this stop every day. :)

Nice! Nice to see an another FLIRT design! FLIRTs comes from Switzerland and after your Train Tech registry I "expected" a FLIRT design from you! De you plan to build it in reality too? (You can find my Stadler FLIRT in my signature, it's running in Hungary.)

Great MOC, I like the details and pictures taken about the part of the loco. Perhaps you need to put some replacement cables on the deck.:) In Hungary there are many repairing locos with pantograph. Because there are not repairing locos in every stations that's why they use pantographs below "alive" cables and use diesel under "dead" lines. I think perhaps pantograph's other function is testing the repaired wire. It doesn't matter why, but these locos have pantograph. :) Like this:

Hi, couple of days ago I made some better quality pictures on FLIRT and Taurus. Both trains have been modded a bit. Here is the MOCPages link to them: http://www.mocpages.com/home.php/40189

Ahh, finally a 8 wide MOC!!! Great, I like your detailed engine. Do you have any batteries and light in the loco? In reality where are this locos used?

I voted "all the time". :) I'm planning to build an another Stadler FLIRT, passanger waggons for Taurus, a V63 locomotive and freight waggons used in Hungary. And of course, a Hungarain station. :)

OFF// No, that's my bad english's fault. //ON

Yes, I did mean this option, not overhead-cable powered trains. (It's discussed in 9V-PF crossover topic ;) ) You're right. But in this case 8 stud width is far more realistic for normal gauged railways then 6 or 7. Yes, curved track with larger radius and perhps a "high speed switch" with the same radius of the new curved track. 8-wide trains are not so compatable with rail-powered system, but new PF or RC is good for this. To anybody: This topic was created to tell your opinion. It's not for creating a summary which train width is the best. It's just for ideas and talking. And I'm waiting for motorized pantographs, too. :)

Hi Ralph, thank you for posting. You are right about the length of carriages and LEGO train track curves, but probably you can run these trains on layout's made from straight tracks and flexible tracks. But many train builders have 9V system, and PF (or RC) must wait a while. (Otherwise, my Stadler FLIRT is compressed a bit, because of the curves.)

When will be this loco released in shops? I don't like steam locos but I'll buy it. ;) :D I like your Wild West MOCs, however, I didn't write to your topics. They are pretty, good looking MOCs. Wheels under tender could be easely replaced with 9V motor? Or need some changes?

I was looking for the MISC topic but I couldn't find it so finally I started a new topic to discuss some train MOC topics I'm interested in. First of all, width of train. Do you prefer 6, 7 or 8 wide trains? I think 8 wide is the best, 7 perhaps, but never 6. For example, the usual gauge is 1435 mm, in LEGO, 4 stud 5 stud. If you browse wikipedia or other pages about trains, you can find that most of trains have at least 2700 mm width! Second one, working pantographs (pantograph can be raised and lowered with remote controll) I think we have all seen this pantograph by Sérgio. Have you ever been thinking about real working pantographs? Perhaps we should make a contest about this, with the following rules: -pantograph must be compatable with 6, 7 or 8 wide trains. -pantograph have to look like as real pantographs -engines, motors could be built in the loco. (you dont have to build a loco, pantograph with a part of roof is enough!) That's all for today, I'm waiting for answers and discussion.

Weel, this loco is bit shorter than the real one, I think it's because of the sharpness of LEGO train track curves. Otherwise, I love this MOC, it's detailed and very similar to the real one. Great work.

Hi, thanks for comment, I'll kepp on bricking, perhaps I create some passanger waggons to this loco! Otherwise, I'll make it using hungarian color scheme, too. :)

Nice loco but won't you try it build at least 7 studs wide? Perhaps a 7 stud wide copy will look better. :)

Hi, I'd like to introduce my new locomotive, the ÖBB Siemens Taurus. These locos are able to run in Hungary, too, and they occur every day on hungarian rails. Otherwise, I have more red parts then blue and yellow (blue and yellow are the colors of the hungarian Taurus), so I decided to build the ÖBB loco. I used the 7897 RC baseplate, the loco's main width is 8 stud. It can run with 9V boogies, too. MOCpages link: http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/181019 PS.: Brickster, please edit my topic's name to "MOC: Models of trains running in Hungary"

Hi, I always love the simple, but amazing waggons. The only problem with this creation that there is only one waggon. :) Do you plan to build another tanker waggons to create a freight train?

This high-speed trains are incredible! I love them all, and they look cool in these curves! Great job!

Trains powered from overhead wires, crossing 9V and PF - what do you think, could it work? Below the image you can find some description: Step 1: Use 9V speed regulator and a piece of 9V track for electricity supply. Use copper wires and make it touch the metal piece of the 9V track. Then connect this wires with the overhead wire. Step 2: We need a modified pantograph to get electricity from the overhead wires. The main problem is to separate the two wires to avoid short circuits. Step 3: We need this time to modified a 9V extension wire to connect the 9V system and the overhead wires. Step 4: We use this time the 9V-PF extension wire. Step 5: Connect the PF IR reciever and the extension wire. Step 6: this time we use a 9V-PF extension wire again... Step 7: ...to connect the train motor to the PF-IR reciever. Step 8: Turn the 9V speed regulator to maximum voltage, and use PF IR speed regulator to drive your train. Advanteges -You don't need batteries (or the expensive rechergeable battery box) to supply your trains. -9V system grants you power but you don't need lot of 9V track anymore - and you can controll train light and train speed separately. -It seems more realistic to power your train from overhead wires. -Using more 9V speed regulators and making more, separated track sections makes your display realistic. Disadvanteges -You need to mod a 9V extension wire. -You don't use ony lego parts. -It's hard to make wires above switches - but it's not impossible. -I don't know, that system would work or not. :D What do you think about this?

Thank you, I wish that PF will work. Otherwise, it's possible, that I'll use the method used in the 2010 passanger train and I use motorized boogies under the driver's cabines, and not PF-motor, so I can save some place in the train. Thank you a lot. Don't be scared because of the snow, only the RC-tracks were on the ground, and they can be easily cleaned. ;) It was the only way to separate the windows with red plates. It was a very important moment of building when I finished this "wave" in the prototype of this train. ;) This one (and something interesting, in this version I used the RC baseplate, so the train was low floor only from the outside :) ):

Finally I decided to write in Train Tech Registry and I'd like to join this community. But where should I begin? We (my brother and me) got some mixed lego parts from our parents' friends from Germany (we live in Hungary), that included many parts, but, of course, no train parts or tracks. That was about in 1994, and I was that year 6 years old. We used this parts for 6 years, but than we packed all parts into a great box and put this box into one of our wardrobes. Couple of yers past, I started the university in the capital of Hungary (it's 60km from our home), and to get school, I used train every day (and I'm still using trains every day). In this years I came to like trains (especially Stadler FLIRT, which train is running on this line), and in 2007 I found the RC passanger train in a shop. I wanted to have it, and finally I made my parents to buy it for Christmas (that was two years ago, I was 19), but, fortunately, after building it I decided to make my own train modells. Two years past, I did my first (and second, and third...etc.) bricklink order, I got some 9V tracks and motors, a 9V level crossing, but I never found sets so interesting than own (or other's) creations. I made many trains, but I didn't like them, so they won't survive more than a few days. I'm interested in low floored EMU-s (electric motor unit) with Jacobian-boogies, and my latest two creations are these trains. On of them is Nagy Piros Villamos introduced in the EB Train Tech Contest, and the newest one is Stadler FLIRT. I'd like to build trackside structures after motorizing Stadler FLIRT (and perhaps an another Stadler FLIRT), my plans include a 300 stud long platform with roof and chairs and with working signals (with PF motor and lights). I think, that's all, please sign me up to Train Tech. :)

I got yesterday a book named "333 locomoties and trains", and I found something interesting in it: This is a train in Germany as ThomasB wrote, this is the 423/433 train. Here you are and English link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DBAG_Class_423 (pictures and description) Other: first time I tought that the nem passanger train and the freight train will include a rechargeable battery box, but there is no 10VDC cable in this set (or it's not shown on the box of the sets). But a smaller battery box or a rechargeable battery box will be good for train fans, I think. :)

THIS IS A TOPIC STARTED IN 2009 TO SHARE MY HUNGARY-RELATED TRAIN MOCs, BOTH BRICKS AND LDD. TO ACCESS LATEST CONTENT GO TO THE LAST PAGES, OR IF YOU ARE INTERESTED HOW MY MOCs DEVELOPED, GO THROUGH ALL PAGES! THANKS FOR VISITING! CURRENTLY I'M RE-ADDING THE IMAGES TO THE THREAD SINCE I EXPERIENCED TOO MUCH ISSUES WITH DEEPLINKED BRICKSHELF IMAGES. My second low floor passanger train after "Nagy Piros Villamos" entried to the Train Tech Contest. This time I tried to make a good copy of a real train running in Hungary near to my home. This train isn't motorized yet, I plant to use PF to do this, in spring 2010. I'll use two XL motors (1-1 under the driver's cabine), rechargeable battery box (I'd like to build it in the roof of the secodn section of the train), of course, an IR reciever (build in the third section's roof), and light, of course (and some extension wires, too). Train isn't finished yet, I think, I'm sure, that I'll find every week something to modify. If you have ideas to make it better, please let me know! ;) More pictures on MOCpages: http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/173855 And the real train:

Amsterdam tram.

Thanks for your words. :) That was my first EB-post (this topic). :) There are two 9V motors in the train, othey are placed under the first and fourth modul. That's why my train can ignore four RC tracks. :) And, of course, I didn't finished it, next week I try to make the front look and doors better. AV

RER A, for me it is the best.