Zerobricks
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Everything posted by Zerobricks
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I think that the caster angle as long as its low can be tolerated. The way you built it the weight rests on the rotaing axle, causing friction. -
Wow so many ideas. Gonna slowly start with some speed measurments. The running arround with string idea is really good!
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Sorry for my crude language but this is just botching because of bitching... Of course people have their opinions and yes lateley there seems to be more complaints, but last few years TLG actually listenes to ideas (orange panels unimog, trial truck-rock crawler, servo motors, the wheels on the grand pix car, etc...)
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Steering problem?
Zerobricks replied to clarkdef's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Use a big gear like 24 tooth or 20 tooth one, or the new turntable 28 tooth one and a rack! -
Its a nice set for sure. The hubs IMO are the best new bits. About colors. I dont care what colors they use internally as long as they arent visible externally. I think somehow the internals look more vivid with different colors. Tell me are the tyres normal rubber, or is it plasticy rubber like the unimog's?
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Will do :)
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Where is Blakbird when you need him
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Was thinking the same. Plane looks easy now that a motor has enough lift to lift itself. You got idea how to make wings?
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Dont have it?
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So first i removed the normal black beams in the back and replaced them with shorter ones in order to gain room for the XL motor. The motor was also attached on the bottom via some 2x4L beams and a connector. The gear ratio on the rear axle was changed from 16:16 to 8:24. Also i used longer axles in order to additionally stabilize wheels. In the front axle i removed the 3/4 pins and used the half stud offset connectors to move the the steering pivot point half a stud back. I also used a 6L axle in the front hubs for less wheel wobbling: in the cab i used the 20:12 gear ratio combination two times and attached M motor: And of course i used an receiver attached to the battery box to make the truck come alive. And thats about it!
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Gonna take some pics for you.
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Just motorized mine. Its very wasy, the gears in portala xles ahve been replaced by 8 and 24 and the XL motor was placed in the rear, where it atatched directly to center diff diveshaft. Front axle was slighty redesigned with half a stud higher steering arm and higher steering angle. The steering motor sits in the cab paralell to fake steering axle. The total drive gear ratio is 1:4,2, giving it enough torque for some medium trialing, but diffs are still opened. Took me an hour to modify, its fun to drive.
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I got my 8110 for under 140€ today, but one of the blue tubes actually splited lengthwise! Even after cutting it down it kept splitting! Never seen anything like it. Yes i already went to Lego costumer service, etc... Anyone else experienced that?
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Wow. so much info i got here at once... Will try the panels, but i doubt they are as efficient as the white blades, so I'm affraid the motor prtoection will kick earlier. I will continue the project in few days, but tommorow I am getting a new set to build. Any pics of how you used panels Mark, so that i dont have to reinvent warm water.
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9398x8
Zerobricks replied to midengineaddict's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
How will you steer? -
While it looks good on paper, you are forgetting that the torque will cause the axles to bend, so the rotors will never be fully horizontal. Thanks for input anyway. i think getting getting a stable quad might be easiser than a tandem.
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Just tried my mirrored rotor with some upgeared Xl motors. No matter how precise i manage to get the angle of the mirrored prop, its still not as efficient as the unmirorred one. The blades are just not totally same, one edge has more curvature than the other. This caused the test frame to slightly rotate in one direction, meaning a tandem or a quad would have same problem... So ATM i am stuck.... About driveshafts. Rotors require quite some torque, and the frame would start to bend by the torque of driveshafts, meaning the rotors would blow sideways... Also gears loose power.
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Okay, i think i managed to mirror the rotor so the angle is very close to the normal one. Now i only need 2 more RC motors.... Any ideas where to get them cheap?
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Yes i already did that, but the angle difference is too high.. Need to adjust angles to match.
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I think the key here is to sucesfully mirror the rotors to a degree of precision. Only than there is chance to have enough balance for any rotor placement, tandem or quad.
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Thats another option, but that means the speeds have to be snchronized, bring back the problem of mirrored rotors generating different drag ratio, meaning whole thing will spin out... Gonna see if there is a way to mechanically make the mirrored rotors to be as same as possible to non mirrored ones.
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I tried that, but the difference of force created by the mirrored and normal proepller proved to be too big. Either they create same force to keep heli leveled, but that the drag is different casuing the thing to wanna spin, or you create drag, but than one end has less lift than other.
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I've been thinking... Since the secondary rotor is not the same as primary (blades angled at some angle in order to mirror the propeller), they dont create same lift/drag. Also using a coaxial variation proved too hard for the secondary motors (3 gears eat some power). So what i think might still be a feasable option is to use 4RC motors and make a quadcopter. Why? Becauset this way the weight of the entire thing is spread between two pairs of normal pitched and mirrored piteched propellors, therebye totally canceling all varations (i think...). What you guys think?
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The pull back cars have them.
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I had most votes, no?