Junpei

Yeah, I saw this on BS just yesterday, I thought it was odd it wasn't posted. It's a stunning creation.

Wow, that's lucky, and quite weird! I've never seen this many extra pieces in a set, especially ones that big and expensive.

Darn, I wish I bought a servo when they were still up on the website I hope you can find some way to avoid paying exorbitant BL prices.

Sorry, I don't have any of them, I used a picture from efferman to compare: Anything on portal hubs tends to have a pretty bad turning radius, I can tell without looking that it's better.

Yes, it's much better, about 2-3 studs inboard.

It's not that expensive, only about $2.00... But there are only 5 lots for sale. There's a BL store that has enough of them, in NEW condition, and it's in the USA: http://www.bricklink.com/store.asp?p=gon2win&itemID=48430732 but get them before someone else! I just read Clarkdef's post, a blimp? Sounds like an awesome idea to me!

Looks really fun to play with, too bad its so top heavy! How long has this been sitting around before you posted this topic? I think you posted a pic of it a long time ago.

Sorry, I don't know, I don't have any of the Unimog tyres myself. Yes, it does have to stretch a lot. It took me about 5 minutes and my fingers were quite sore after that. Thanks! Actually, I think it will probably fit unimog rims if it can fit power pullers on it. Although I think it might perform not as well because the unimog rims are flat; balloon tyres allow for some fluctuations in diameter without affecting performance.

Oh, and put your pictures on a photo hosting site like Flickr or Brickshelf. The link you posted can only be accessed on your computer.

Oh, I guess I could have figured that out myself, I didn't think about that. Thanks. You could also use an 8t gear and 20t gear for a 1:5.4 (?) ratio. As posted on Mark J. E. Bellis's website: These are the 3 hubs you can use for the power miners wheel.

The tyre keeps its original form factor almost perfectly, maybe just stretched a millimeter on one side. No fluctuations in diameter though. I can tell the ratio is lower than a turntable ring gear and an 8t gear (3:1), but does anyone know how many teeth the Power Miners wheel's ring gear is? I'm not sure of the exact ratio.

Then just don't put a drivetrain. If you can put that motor in a motor casing, just make swing arm suspension with the pivot on the ends of the motors. Who needs drivetrains, anyway?

Oh, I should have thought of that. It would be perfect for powering LA's or a bucket tilt function for an RC model.

Today I figured out something that may revolutionize Lego building: The ultimate wheel. I always tried to find a way to create planetary reduction with the Power Miners wheel, but due to its unusual shape and size, they all failed. But today I thought of an idea for this part- (quote from efferman) How do you get planetary gear reduction with a pivot close to the center of the wheel? Ditch the wheel! Here are some specs and pictures: A 6x6 disc fits perfectly to hide the ugly spikes: A 3-stud rim offset: The CV joint hub's pivot is inside the wheel, more easily seen here: If you use 8448 hubs, the pivot is in the dead center of the wheels. And lastly, the thing you've all been wating for... PLANETARY GEAR REDUCTION!! You can make a hub with 5 gears out of connectors, but I was too lazy The ratio is even higher than the turntable planetary gears used in Zblj's Tatra, and even better yet, bigger gears means less backlash, more strength and less friction!

Yes, it's all compatible, actually Znap beams have the same size holes as standard Technic. I have thought about this part before, I don't have one myself but I too would like to see how it performs, it has to be good for something. The axle lengths on the ends are a bit odd...

Two 8420s... Damn, your collection is awesome.

Use the wheels you've shown with 2 of these motors: http://store.rc4wd.com/540-Crawler-Brushed-Motor-35T_p_821.html Performance Specs: (At no load) RPM @ 7.2V : 12500 (?10%), 1.25Amp Current (Max Efficiency) RPM @ 7.2V : 10400 (?10%), 4.62Amp Current Designed oprating temperature range: -30?C to +80?C Motor end play : .50mm max Noise level: < 60db With some LiPo batteries, and if you're willing to shell out the money for official lego ones, the voltage at max efficiency happens to be exactly the same. It's only 1 stud longer than an XL and I think it will fit in the casing if you slightly modify it. Or are you going for something purist?

Wow, incredible performance! I can't believe it can pull a car!! A bit off topic, but I'm surprised you still have your 6x6 assembled, do you keep all of your MOCs?

They are very weak, even weaker than mini LA's, and they extend and retract very suddenly. They also bend easily because the piston is plastic, and actually require more air pressure to initially move than large cylinders. But I guess you're right that they work well for a few things.

I love all the entries, I'll be posting mine tomorrow. Daiman, what program did you use to make that render? It looks not as good as LDraw but better than LDD.

Well I don't own a 42009 myself, but if you can fit it in, you should do it, it should make it a lot smoother and more powerful. Oh, and welcome to Eurobricks!

Welcome to Eurobricks! I think you would be better off with the servo, it's simpler, and if I'm right that it uses rack and pinion steering, you can implement it directly. I think an M would be sufficient for drive, but make sure it has a differential and the steering has ackermann geometry if it doesn't already. Good luck!

No stickers! Wow, this is one of the most beautiful sets I have ever seen. And for 160 USD? I'm sold.

Looking promising so far! Are you going to compare your two entries and enter the one you prefer?

Awesome car! Loving that spare tyre on the bottom!