Boxerlego

I guess your asking me this. Important thing is you got to have a very solid construction around the gear train for the model to get up to 46km/h with the BLDC motor. You can have the fastest motor around but what good does that do for you if you cant transfer that power with your LEGO build. Another thing to consider is that is there any 3d printed parts required here for this to work properly. It would be a shame to get all the required RC parts for the Lego RC conversion and then the project just comes to a stop by some 3d printed part or a bad construction job. Remember you just spent all this money for this awesome RC system you don't want that all come to a stop by some improvised solution that they forgot to show you. Also another thing to consider is how well do the parts handle the RC mod. The guy has a list of all the RC parts he used in the description.

When it comes to using non LEGO Motors I do it the most purist way to go about it. And that is I try to use NO none LEGO as little I can with the Motor Mod. Its only LEGO the MOTOR and JB-WELD that is it and nothing more. No special screws that haft to match when it come to mounting a LEGO part. Here that LEGO part is there connected with the MOTOR. When using JB-weld I can take all motors no motor is safe when it comes to using non LEGO Motors. That is why I advocate using JB-weld over the other options out there.One of the best things about using JB-weld to make non LEGO motors is that you can replace the non LEGO motor with an XL motor with out any major changes to the structural frame where the motors is because the Non-LEGO motor has the same mounting points as the XL motor and to me that is purist way. Also lets not forget where the proper attribution for this building technique below goes.

Thanks, The results of my project will be posted in the link. Now back to the topic When it comes to building the Magnet rotor there is tons of stuff I had to prefect so it will come out good and most of the time I find my self going to LEGO to solve these problems. For starters I've built a gauge from 2 bricks with a flat plate on top to be the measuring device for the quality of the rotor. LEGO Rotor Gauge by boxerlego, on Flickr And because the rotor is two bricks tall I'm able to then use one brick to be the guide for making a precise center mark on the rotor part, and to do this I use a small flat-head screwdriver that happens to have a locking fit in between the studs of the brick for precise center line. LEGO Rotor Center Scoring Screwdriver by boxerlego, on Flickr LEGO V-block Center Connector by boxerlego, on Flickr Once all the necessary marks have been made the next step is to drill into the PVC tube. The first three holes are the most important and most care should be taken into getting them straight and center. The last three holes will be the easiest with the help of the LEGO pin connector part. When the first three holes are drilled in the tube it is possible to use the pin connector to center the tube up and drill last three holes 180 degrees opposite from the first three holes. LEGO V-block Center Connector PVC by boxerlego, on Flickr The pin connector part centers the PVC tube up very good for the other hole to be drilled. PVC Tube Centered Rod by boxerlego, on Flickr

Awesome! I will tell you what I'm doing. I'm making a magnet rotor. I plan to use these hardware parts in the picture below and build a wheel from them, Then after that the next step it will become a magnet rotor. You can see more of what I'm doing at this link here (Link: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=107703&st=50#entry2318007 ) I will post more about this over the weekend. I got one magnet rotor already completed I'm working on the second magnet rotor build now. Magnet Rotor Hardware Parts by boxerlego, on Flickr

Recently I have been using a Drill Press for my LEGO project. Tho the most important tool I needed for the drill press was a V-block which I made that out of LEGO in order to hold the PVC tube. What else can I say, it works. Drill Press LEGO V-block by boxerlego, on Flickr

If the Axle member your going to build is going to have a U joint in there then I wouldn't recommend building it at 45 degrees. -

Loads of potential with this truck. Good work on everything.

Nice video, It looks great and runs fast! 42041 is a good set for RCing.

Update: The Electric motor is nearing completion. The magnet rotor build was a success. For the most part I'm very proud of this build and how it turned out. I done lots of math in the making of the Magnet rotor build and I got to say that everything from the size of the magnets to the size of the rotor have been to also including the size of the Lego parts as well and this was kinda of hard since I'm forced in to combing both systems of measurement metric and inches. Well enough if this math stuff now for the more interesting part. washer and nut by boxerlego, on Flickr In this picture above is a washer and a 3/4 standard hexnut. The hexnut threads has been rounded out with a round file by hand for the wheel spacer (see wheel spacer 1 for example) so the magnet rotor shaft is able to fit inside the bearings on the motor. Wheel hub mounting nut 1 by boxerlego, on Flickr Next part is to Jb-weld the nut to washer and this can easily be done with the correct size bolt that fits the nut and washer. This part will be used to make a mounting hub nut for the spokes on the wheel. Wheel hub mounting nut 2 by boxerlego, on Flickr Wheel Spacer 1 by boxerlego, on Flickr Here is the wheel spacer, it is comprised of two bearing inner races (Important note: The exact same bearing inner races that you will find on the bearings you see with the motor, you just got to dismantle the bearing to get them) and a washer. The bearing races will need to be able to fit inside the Wheel hub mounting nut and the washers that is there will stack together which in turn will level and even itself out. This also needs to be Jb-weld for everything to be lock in place. Wheel spacer 2 by boxerlego, on Flickr Rotor magnets by boxerlego, on Flickr Here is the final part for the completing the magnet rotor is putting the magnets on. Here in this picture you can see that I have added 6 magnets to the rotor. My goal was to put 18 magnets on it but since this was my first attempts to build a magnet rotor, so I settled for 6 magnet on this. I plan to add more magnets on my next magnet rotor build but overall I need to improve on the ability to effectively to secure the magnets on the rotor so I can improve on increasing the number magnets.

Here is a picture of the Magnet rotor with out the magnets, it is still WIP. Now its time for a rough draft of the build so far. First thing I did was even the metal wheel rods or spokes out and then sanding down the PVC wheel so it sits flat level as possible in that I can accurate make center line around the wheel to measure and drill holes close to center as possible for the spokes. Once I was able to insert the spokes in the PVC pipe and see if the rods are aligned with the Hex-nut properly. Then the next part is fine tuning the wheel out with LEGO bricks so that the wheel can be inspected that it is even around the edges and sides so that is spins nice and flat. Now some important things to know about the LEGO jig is to use the right size socket and bolt for the hex nuts so the entire jig can sit flat and level on the table in conjunction with the washer, The hex-nut along with the PVC Wheel. Once the LEGO jig is done it will then be used to complete the final part for the locking in place the wheel with JB weld. Then I finished the locking the Hex-nut in the rotor with JB weld on the Lego jig so that the JB weld sets in place while the wheel is sitting level as possible on the LEGO bricks. Now you cant even see the JB weld here in the picture because it is between the metal washers that is how well I thought it out. 002 Magnet Rotor Wip by boxerlego, on Flickr

Wow, Awesome work! It would be great to see more pictures of it.

There is a pressure adjusting valve on the end of the Air tank here (Its Red). Adjust that Red valve and you can bring the total output air pressure down to safer psi for LEGO use. The ideal air pressure in the air tank is 120 psi.

Everyday we deal with this problem. Being inspired is way more beneficial. LEGO is about Inspiration and building. When I made a tutorial and showed how to connect two 9v battery boxes together for 18v. The moderators didn't even give me attribution in the most notable topics list because they don't feel comfortable with the idea that LEGO should be able to do this. So tell me why attribution of building techniques is so important when the Moderators could care less about making sure you receive attribution. We live in a world full of supremacist and if you not part of the elite club then no attribution for you.

@Cumulonimbus: Thanks, I have plenty of good reasons why I want to build this with LEGO bricks. The only thing I felt that LEGO couldn't handle is the RPM and torque this motor could produce, That is why I opted for having metal bearings along with a metal shaft instead of the simple LEGO Hole and Axle. As for the structural design part I felt LEGO was the way to go. To over come the short comings of the LEGO structural design I use M4 machine bolts for adjusting to achieving the tight tolerances between the coils and magnet so it can function near full potential. The best reason of all for it to be constructed out of LEGO is that if in a rare case that this machine becomes perpetual motion is that it going to be very hard to suggest there is any hidden power sources here.

Awesome moc! The XL motor clearly not powerful enough for Jar-Jar Those always regrow back, need to get it at the roots.

Thanks JJ2! There is tons of stuff I want to say about this motor and how it going to work. This is not your average DC electric motor that Thomas Edison made. This motor here I made is going to be a huge step up towards how we generally think DC electric motor should operate. I will say it simply like this on Thomas Edison DC motor it is a 1:1, 1:2 or 2:1 ratios between electromagnets and magnets. However, on my DC motor it going to be 1:3 ratios 1 electromagnet for every 3 magnets which in theory will triple the DC motor power output at the shaft. I wont go in to full blown detail how I accomplish this at the moment. That is all I'm going to say about this for now but think how this would effect the notion how DC/AC motor in theory should operate for the time being. Now I'm almost finished with the 18 pole magnetic rotor I just need to assemble it. Another thing I'm building the magnetic rotor in a way that if I'm not happy with it I can always make another one and do improvements on it and see what works best. That is one of my LEGO goals right there for the DC motor. Edit: The ratios between electromagnets and magnets has been corrected for simple DC motors. This usually is dependent on how many poles the armature has in conjunction with the placement of the field magnets. I will expand on this later.

Update: 8/16/2015. Over the past couple of days I have been making huge HUGE HUGE progress on the Magnet rotor. I finally constructed a prototype that is very close to true center.

Wow! What a magnificent build! This is certainly one of the best builds yet I have seen so far!

Neat build Bob! Toad Bot looks very compact!

Wow, Excellent build Dr long! Your story is very well done! Good work on everything!

Wow! Stunning build Shmails, excellent work! Love the exosuit! The environment is beautiful certainly looks otherworldly!

Wow, This is a fantastic build and story! Nicely done man! I'm looking forward for the 2nd part.

Wow, That is excellent rock work right there. Also I like the amount details in this build. That is a very neat story. Good work on everything! You had me at magnetic anomalies as well, I love it!

Wow, Excellent work on the build Big Sal. The story is awesome. I wonder if the Gold nanoparticles have any effects on the environment.

Wow BigZ, that is a awesome looking build. I like the parts usages here.