Boxerlego

Good news everyone, I melted the Batterybox. Now this come to me as no big surprise, Its was only a matter of time when it was going to happen. I will admit that this batterybox had the philo modification on it where you bypass the safety current fuse inside the battery box and now you can see aftermath for the modification. Cool thing about the melted Batterybox is that is still works with the outer two terminals. And this leaves me with my Lego Report. Using the LEGO batterybox with Custom Motors can result in damage to the batterybox electric terminals. So it not a wise decision in modifying the batterybox when certain parts on the batterybox can only handle so much current. Now due to the Melted Battery terminals above, I decide it was time to make the necessary PF upgrade to my Custom Lego Motor and this is how it turned out. For me there is no electrons dealing with electricity so there is no electron moving up or downhill, Tesla has made me understand that the "energy" is already there. When I said I know how a battery works I'm talking in the unconventional sense in that regard, you know the one we are not taught in school. But that hasn't stop me from learning Electrochemistry and comparing the two understandings. I understand the accepted concepts of "free energy" which is the kind of energy that is readily available to be absorb. Now what I mean by "stepping up" is just my simple way of saying a DC-to-DC converter. In no way am I implying that I have some how broke the laws of thermodynamics here.

Update: Little over a year ago I made a my own Motor Driver to provide more electric power to the LEGO motors and the modified ones as well. The Motor Driver worked out great powering the Lego motors (M, L, XL) but with the modified ones it didn't turned out how I wanted when you have more then one motor connected. The motor drive did good powering one modified XL motor but once two modified XL motors was connected the starting current was just a little to much for the Voltage Booster to provide which in turn triggers the built in safety device to prevent it from over heating. Now this problem is a simple fix with multiple solutions. Now the easiest fix is just to find a better Voltage booster which I already done, but the Voltage booster is only going to be as good as the Batteries provided. Now one thing they didn't teach you in school is about Batteries and how they really work. You all been misled including myself all your life about batteries and I know why. I know how batteries really work and the truth is this there is no Electrons in the batteries. That is a fact, I've already proved it in LEGO with the Dual PF Battery Pack which I showed everyone how to make. No ignoring this "The Proof is in the LEGO" as I like to say. I want you to understand that the "idealized concepts of perpetual motion" has been the key driving force behind this monumental error with understanding electricity. I know how batteries work and my Laptop batteries benefits from this. I know how to kill a battery and I also know how to keep a battery working in top condition for several years beyond the average expected life span the experts tell you a battery should have. Now I don't care if you don't believe this after all only Mother Nature will determine how the battery is superposed to work and if it works for me then surly it will work for you but that is if you want to understand how to use a battery correctly and not improperly. That why I said the Voltage booster is only going to be as good as the Batteries provided if the batteries are weak then the harder the voltage booster needs to work to step-up the voltage to that point. I've been studying/experimenting with Lithium ion batteries since 2010 and that is the battery I deiced to use because of the higher energy density and higher nominal cell voltage then regular consumer batteries.

Excellent work on reaching your money goal BuWizz team.

Nice job on the Modified Lego RC. Looks good.

Excellent work, Looks tough. That's a nicely done double green line down the middle. Excellent job at the air suspension, it works great. Looking forward for more.

OK, Here is an Idea. The big problem with a gearbox that is this overdone is all the points of friction it creates. Sure you can grease up the rough spots and reduce friction that way. LEGO gearboxes are just to simple to be complex. I personally see the best gearboxes out there as True LEGO prototypes for a complete functional transmission. I like seeing Gearboxes that work like so but the size is overwhelming and can really throw the build off if size is a problem. Gearboxes this size are pretty much a table display at best. Yea, Its even possible to build a for a Gearbox but what is the point if speed isn't going to be in the equation. That is why I consider them prototypes, after all, once you start getting the Idea that you simply need a bigger motor to make it work. As of Today, the best gearboxes are made by nobody and that is if you want a bigger motor to make it work.

Excellent review, This Tractor looks well made. The steering system functions is amazing. At first the tires on this tractor I couldn't even believe it was LEGO. This would be a good set to have just alone for the tires and lime green parts. Nice work on traveling into the future and getting your hand on this set.

This High performance PF system looks neat. I like the compact design. The Speed setting is an interesting idea and is certainly worth using. Looking forward to more see already seen some great stuff. Are we going to see it fly?

Great looking model. If only the LPE engine could fit, that would be neat to see working. I support the idea for using Magnetic Power Electric motors are always a good reliable choice for a model this size.

This wouldn't work as well with a dead battery.

Wow Excellent post Mark, This is very good info. Thanks for posting it. When it come to the dual power supply I don't consider it a electrical hack, it just the nature of electricity at work that has been overlooked by settled science. Connecting two battery boxes in parallel only increase the total amount of current available for the DC motor. The DC motor will still run as good as it if it had one battery box connect in theory. See the motor going to use as much current as the motor needs for the rotor armature Magnetic Field to be able to turn the shaft. Increasing the Current is like making the gas tank bigger for the car to drive with, increasing the voltage is like increasing the volatility of fuel to increase the fuel reaction in the combustion system. More volatile the fuel the faster the car can go if the engine can handle all the stresses with out it blowing up. The best way to increase Current is to use the Batteries with the most amount of current so you can have more current available in the space provided in one battery box.

Hello Everyone, Check this Air engine Out. We can all agree that Pneumatics wont do this. This Air engine is a recreation of the USS Monitor Steam Engine which is an early American War Ship that was built by Swedish American John Ericsson. This engine is pretty interesting with how it was designed to function. Its very elaborate engine design with opposed cylinder piston that functions a lever arm which is connected to a center crank shaft and it also is name the vibrating lever engine. It was such a neat build I made more then one videos to. I made another video where you see inside and can watch the cylinders move up and down.

Did a good job at incorporating 3rd party Rc System with LEGO. Everything work out great. I given this a long thought about 3rd part and its incorporation with LEGO builds when it comes to all the parts. Me I like the idea of building and building a 3rd party Rc System with LEGO is a interesting one at best. One of the things I feared most is that out of all the loose wires one of them getting caught somewhere on the RC model. Another problematic area is the inclusion of non lego building components like Fasteners or even Epoxy making the model have the "it not" Lego feel for some. For me It was all about building with the custom Motor and having a powerful motor driving the LEGO. I didn't quite care how I powered the motor whether if it was by battery or by extension cable my Idea was simple/easy and didn't cost me noting but just required the know how to do it. This was the kind of focus I had put in with my Lego Models. Sure I could have bought a Rc system and do some kind of lego conversion but for me that didn't seem fun to build when the RC comes out of the box ready for some batteries and off you go but on the upside is that you got excellent control range with great speed and that a BIG PLUS +1.

Hello there Technic Jim. The Fuse is self resetting, all you need to do is turn the power off and the fuse should reset itself after it has cooled down. I don't know if there is a resettable fuse in the 5292 buggy motors I never looked. However, you can power them on a acceptable range of voltage, I usually say 12volts is the limit but just remember that higher voltage on the motor means more deterioration it experiences. Some motors can run perfectly fine on 24 volts others might not do as well It just depends on the motor and the forces at work.

If you want to increase the current just connect the PF wires normally. Just make sure all the batteries are the same voltage and the same type. Well the post is not about "what to make" but it is more along the lines about "not what to make". Because after all some could answer and say this is not safe to make especially the settled science physicists. I do know that there was a guy from japan that powered 4 rc motors, so yes It is possible to power two XL motors. For best effect keep the build light as possible.

This Guy should work For the Casino.

Hi Everybody! The Truth is out there... I just want to tell you that its critical for you to understand that according to modern Science standards about electricity this should never have work in the first place because after all Electrons travel from the Negative(-) to the Positive(+). Its also important to Understand that LEGO PF system is a 9v electrical system and the electrical components in the LEGO PF receiver are no way design to handle voltage up around 18V. So if there were 18Volts of electrons moving from the (-) Negative to the (+) Positive then the LEGO 9V electronics system would burn up. RIGHT!? Well that is what I thought too!! But I did the experiment anyway and found out otherwise. It very Important to Understand that physics has taken over electricity and ultimately has come to the conclusion that this should never work and is bunk science. Ever hear of the Cathode Ray Tube Experiment of 1897 after all JJ Thompson is a important discoverer of the Electron and a big name in the modern electrical theory, Which I in fact have shown to everybody that he was wrong. Not impressed yet, I didn't think so. I want to give a special Thanks To the LEGO corporation for their inhibition to recognize special talented people. Its been about four years already and still no Nobel prize for this discovery not even a Job offer to work for NASA or even CERN... supposed if I was a girl I would have been treated differently and probably would have been made a cultural Icon for all girls to look up to like madame curie showing those dumb boys a thing or two.. Remember if you don't promote talented minds you just going to end up living in a fools paradise so Enjoy your 70 virgins everybody! My next Project is going to be A Big Blast I'm thinking about building a Bomb that looks like LEGO Clock! So tell me what you think about my next Big project! Now that was a joke so if you don't understand my joke then surly you don't understand anything at in this point of time. Enjoy your Spring Break Everybody!

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I gave this some thought about a year ago or two and I know just the way to go about it if you want to keep the purist look for your motor but you will haft to open it up if you looking for more torque for the motor. Now here is what you do, Your going to need to upgrade the motor magnets in the L motor to neodymium motor magnet and doing that will certainly up the torque for the motor. You will haft to open up the motor and get inside to the internal motor to have access and to remove the motor Magnets to replace them. I never have done this so there is a possibility that this could not work. There are neo motor magnets (Link: https://www.apexmagnets.com/xmod-motor-magnets) that are made for motors that fit for Xmods RC cars (Link: http://atomicmods.com/xmods/) they have small motors so the possibility that the motors could be the same size for a replacement is very good. Who knows you might not even need to take out the motor magnets from the L motors and you could just replace the L motor with the Xmod motor. Just like how this guy in the video does with the M motor.

Thanks, right now I don't know how much torque it has. There is still more improvements that can be made to it for better torque output.

Video is now up of it working

I certainly can, I got the motor running right now Tho I'm just not finished with some things yet like the other end of the motor shaft and calibrating the circuit Right now I think the transistor is not turning fully on for full power from the 12v wall adapter but it still runs good

Well, I've actually got the motor running two days ago but overall the motor project is never completed as I plan to make improvements along with more designs for this. Currently the way the first motor design is working as a BLDC motor and was built from the circuit plans presented in this video below.

That was close, I was just referring to the machine as the micomotor here because the micromotor pulley wheel is on it. Here the pulley has important use to securing the Inner bearing race to the Lego axle shaft. I use JB-weld, here is the Link: http://www.jbweld.com/ It not really glue either. Once you use it you will know the difference.

The micromotor just got an upgrade. LEGO Magnet Rotor Axle Bearing Race Bushing by boxerlego, on Flickr