brunojj1

You should base your calculations on the width of the car which is an odd number, resulting in the proportional height and length. Usually rounded off you come up to 27 studs in a normal car and 29 in a sportscar. The "UCS" supercars used to have too small wheels for the exact 1/8 scale and in relation to the wheelareches. Now with the Daytona we got the cool wheels with the better 11 studs diameter. My 1/8.5 scaled cars look kinda small next to it, it´s kinda Frank Zane next to Arnold . Don´t plan your bodywork, just visualize it all the time. Be patient and elaborate a solid chassis which is literally the base for a beautiful looking body. Make it as compact as you can, fit all the mechanisms first. That will ensure you will have enough space between chassis and outer shell to fit the attachments. E.g. find the main spots for headlights and try to work around them with parts that make the eyes and face recognizeable. Having the full blueprints at hand helps you to keep within the outer lines. Then, after completing the chassis, make the roof. After that start from the bottom line of the car. Try to lay over bigger panels to cover big surfaces and naturally adapt to the angles and edges with minimal deviations as possible, then work around them with minimal beams usage to bridge over. Stacking beams was 10 years ago, but then we didn´t have this variety of panels. Don´t compromise the final position where you want the panel exactly to be and seek for the way to connect it to the surroundings. You could add a stud at the wheelbase which is a cool trick in order to visually compensate inevitable bulks and bumps all over the place. Keep your vision, break the rules !

Yes, it does work the wrong way. Moreover, don´t forget to correct the wrong sequence order by turning the green lever, I believe this is a commonly known fix already. To change direction you simply need to flip a knob gear like this:

Thanks! That´s not all of it, but I will do post it in the other thread later. First buy 2 more of the glass shelves and add a few more exhibits to it, God willing And clean all the dust and fingerprints for higher resolution pictures, for me that´s the least fun part of it, so please be patient... The Daytona fits exactly into the shelf (each 170x60x28.5cm) lengthwise, but one side mirror needs to be removed to suit the width, same as with the Bugatti.

I didn´t like the extreme suspension rake, means the front has to go up or the rear axle to be lowered down. So I decided for the latter by weakening the linkage: And by the way simply remove the 1L beams from the support of the rear cover so it will stay up. You need to remove the black bowed 13L from the clamshell and the suspension travel will be just fine. A nice addition to the collection with the special printed shield which I like a lot.

- correcting the front suspension height - and/or install a front lift w/ 2-3 positions

Call me too old or stupid, but it´s indeed confusing. I see a green hook next to the wrong part. Having some experience with creating instructions myself (not CAD work), I know how hard it is to eliminate all errors if not double or tripple checking by somebody else. But here we are dealing with an army of coworkers and highly paid experts from the premium brand. Considering errors of this type happen to occur frequently, think again about the gear sequence which even couldn´t be copy pasted from the last model correctly. Whatever, I have ordered mine and can´t wait for the new wheels and panels to play with.

Here we go. I need more of them because I believe I will get used to them quickly. I got a bunch of these new frames and it´s a shame I first and threw them into the storage bin and didn´t realize they are not your usual 15x11, but it´s actually 15x9 studs . I will definitely build in few of these right now into the new drivetrain aproach of my MOC!

Wow, that´s so shameless. But I suppose there are at least 5000 millionaires living in Switzerland alone willing to buy this? Perfect supply-and-demand situation. For me this limited slipcase product is so diconnected from reality and represents the essence of nonsense in our crazy world. I mean everything is to see in relation to the price. IMO the coffee table book should have been simply a part of the premium Ferrari set, apart from the building instructions. And better keep the bulding instructions clean from marketing stuff.

I like the gems in the headlights ! The rest of the car looks rather cheap to me. But who cares, it´s comission work, so the customer is happy and that´s important. Thanks anyway for presenting it !

Why didn´t you ask me?

A transparent windscreen panel or let say 2 half pieces sliding together would be nice to have one day. Why did I bring this to the table? The Ferrari Daytona SP3 has a windshield piece which is shaped a different way, difficult to manufacture. At least that´s what a reknowned automobile designer is saying. We don´t need the exact shape replicated here. I think these black flex axles reminding of a glass silhouette look very odd. Btw. - judging from the revealed front picture on the box we can witness the front suspension sagging again . Just look at the space between tires and wheelarches and compare front and rear ! Please no excuses the used parts are different or whatever. After the Porsche and Bugatti this seems to become a traditional feature. A beginners mistake for MOCers you don´t want to see in a super-dooper premium model. You will have to eliminate this issue first, I think. Or surprise me tremendously, and give me a front car lift - what a noble feature, easy! A diecast model at 1:8 scale costs 10K plus. So I prefer to make it myself if not available . I like the gapless look of this Lego model.

Thanks! I love the rims + new tires a lot . The overall shape seems not bad too. Do I spot an actual front windscreen through the fog or is it just dreaming ... ?!

Fantastic job, we couldn´t expect anything less from you ! These huge clamshells are just impressive! Clever advancement for the HOG use / storage in multiple places. Love the luggage accessories too and the mandatory fence pieces in the right places. There is nothing wrong with the black-on-black color scheme, although you would say usually it´s supposed to be the most boring combo. Just imagine what is possible by doing some color flips ans spec this car towards the ultimate, with chromed elements all over the place . Ist the tub strong enough to make a solid roadster of it? Considering the A-pillars seem to have no structural function the way the are mounted. Btw. I Iike the use of the long steering rods too, although there should always be some alternative solution for a front window frame. How did you root the 3 functional strains through the tunnel? Since we are in the Technic forum, I´d be not the only one highly interested to see the gearbox and other mechanisms closer, a view of the raw chassis and/ or underbelly shot would be highly apreciated. On the other hand I can perfectly understand if you are not willing to do that for reasons we both know about well. Perhaps you could earn tons out of this project by putting a little bit more effort into the presentation. Use a clean bright background. A black car needs a lot of lightshed to get more detailed. A bigger lense gives you a better realistic focus. From a horizontally higher perspective, 3/4 perspective would look overwhelming IMO, flat front and rear view are missing too. Can´t wait for the glowing-in-the-dark video .

So your entire post is about pouring oil into the fire of speculation? I´ve had a dream about a nice red car with 5-spoke rims too ... It must come true in some way .

Wow, you have made a lot of progress and increased the fun to another level ! I think it´s the right decision not to overload the car with a heavy "gapless" body, but to keep it slim for an agile performance. Does the camber angle have any real purpose, I mean does it deliver advanced behavior on the "race track"?

@astyanax Thank you, my friend ! It´s moving very quick, although I won´t say "superfast" because I believe there is more speed potential in these terrific buggy motors. But as we have learnt: the risks of damaging gears and motors are growing exponentially too, no need to walk over the cliff. Maybe if you sacrifice the gearbox and install a few white clutch gears between for a smoother acceleration, we would have a faster car without the power cut off engaging, who knows.. It´s amazing to realize the gearbox can stand such loads, an achievement the Lego company itself would never dream of. Btw. - did you try to switch gears while driving? Do you want to finish the entire car with your custom body around this chassis? Any plans regarding publishing visualazations or even a sort of instructions files? Thank you again for doing this proof of concept for the hardcore enthusiasts like you and me!

I suppose you mean studded system by "classic Lego". Guess what, most of the guys around here including me started the same way. Then came the so called Dark Ages and at some point we rediscovered the hobby. I personally was fascinated by the new kind of studdless system delivering such high level of variability and sophistication, allowing me to build far superior, rigid, compact structures. Regarding you parts stock - watch out for used Lego Technic sets on ebay and such, don´t be afraid mixing in other perfectly compatible brands like CaDA as well, which often are less expensive - just my personal opinion. My biggest advice: first of all you have to learn patience with yourself! Because you keep saying you don´t like what you create, just don´t do that. Don´t give up until you reach your initial goal. Satisfaction is the most important thing, you need to enjoy the intermediate results as well as the building process itself, by discovering new laws and boundaries of physics. That´s how it works in the longterm. Set your realistic goals in the first place, learn from others, expand your knowledge and enhance the pleasure step-by-step.

There are no sins to commit, having fun like a kid . Thank you for your feedback, I enjoy reading from you again ! Btw. I didn´t "recommend" the 5 minutes playtime, just hoped that your battery would do the job as expected. I almost never make such efforts myself .

How old are you, @TechnicWeirdo ? What´s your current parts stock available to use for your project? What kind of MOC would you like to build next? I think you should give us some more specific information like that before getting the whole library of advice from the crowd.

OK, sorry! Maybe I was a little bit too hasty to announce it. I will not show any picture of it until clarification. The mentioned parts I´ve seen, partly look like your design, the main (very sophisticated!) part is obviously a further development, but generally it looks like they are based on your idea. At least I can confirm the parts are of solid plastic and not in 3D printed stage. My test batch is on the way and I can´t wait to find out how it really works. However, I´m excited about the bare fact there is a working solution to circumnavigate the "patented" part in a creative way! Although until today I have no idea how serious the issue is itself. If it wasn´t about the part design, then it´s highly disputable whether somebody can defend a patent describing the whole gearbox as concept or the round turning wheel. IMO Thorsten aka Johny´s World has stired up this sh..t for no reason.

Again we need to continue here in the generic topic, to discuss things of a generic type. @nerdsforprez asked about carbon fiber axles. There are 4pcs. of black 7L axles included in the Monster Truck set #C61008W. You can find them explicitely here in the instructions & partslist. @T Lego We have all freedom to elaborate new gears and develop ideas towards serious necessary solutions. Helical gears, herringbone gears, new clutch gears beyond the existing 16t and 20t or whatever. Or think about gears with an odd number of teeth, like @efferman already made several custom types. Btw. the reinforced fiberglass parts I got for testing which I mentioned earlier, were just prototypes and will not be produced. Doesn´t mean fiberglass materials cannot be considered at all. Then I got good news regarding the development of an alternative for the orange rotary switch. Maybe it´s on @efferman´s part to present it to the public if and when he feels to do so - I´m proud of him !

Guys, thank you for your input – very interesting stuff indeed! In addition, regarding the mentinoned axial loads: The axial loads produced by helical gears can be countered by using double helical or herringbone gears. These arrangements have the appearance of two helical gears with opposite hands mounted back-to-back, although in reality they are machined from the same gear. (The difference between the two designs is that double helical gears have a groove in the middle, between the teeth, whereas herringbone gears do not.) This arrangement cancels out the axial forces on each set of teeth, so larger helix angles can be used. It also eliminates the need for thrust bearings. Source here The good thing is that plastic gears simply can be molded and are not as hard to be produced as real helical gears in comparison to spur gears. I used to work for a gearbox producing company (combine and mower drives) with a lot of special CNC production, but they never did the gears themselves because it´s highly specialised precision work.

@astyanax Wow, that sounds promising! Fingers crossed, can´t wait for the video! Anyway, take your time and brace all gears properly . Regarding the equality of CaDA gears and driving rings: there is not as much difference, but in summary it could have a slight impact on the total performance as I´ve experienced in a recent project. Great news! I didn´t know about the helical gears in particular, but I´m excited about this kind of progress! As mentioned earlier, I see vast potential regarding building new compact gearboxes in the future. I´m not sure about carbon gears, maybe they will be out of fibre glass mixed with harder plastics. At least I received some red prototypes of 20t gears and corresponding diffs + 7x5 frames and CV joints a while ago. Carbon fibre axles are not as expensive to produce as gears, I suppose. I will ask Martin on occasion about the current development of this stuff.

I guess the discussion about the new CaDA motors rather belongs to this topic as reference, so let´s discuss it here. I´m sorry I have no deeper background as expert or engineer. In general one can safely say that CaDA buggy motors are stronger, spinning faster than Lego motors, which has its advantages and downsides. Surely they are noisier which is kinda logical. IMHO there are no sources reliable to 100%, but I´ll try to explain. There are variables such as voltage and load/resistance which are unknown in some declarations. First we have Philo´s homepage as a good source when it comes to all kind of Lego motors characteristics. Then there is Sariel´s gear calculator where you can see theoretical output values of different gear redactions combined with the Lego motors. Before the update there were different rpm data related to 7V and 9V which is a significant difference, now we have only 9V for comparison. When it comes to the CaDA motors, we have the data from the set C64053W where they are being used. I´ve had written down the exact rpm from a different source some time ago, but don´t remember where it was, so I have no reference. It would be nice to have an independent comparison together with the BuWizz characteristics added as well. I have preliminaryly summarized my collected data as following, maybe it can serve as some orientation anyway: LEGO buggy motor CaDA racing motor Philo´s homepage Sariel´s gear calculator CaDA homepage unknown source 9V 9V 7,4 V ? inner output (r/pm) 1700 (no-load) 1069 1069 1800 1860 outer output (r/pm) 1240 (no-load) 780 780 ? 1344

I´m sorry I have no deeper background as expert or engineer. In general one can safely say that CaDA buggy motors are stronger, spinning faster than Lego motors, which has its advantages and downsides. Surely they are noisier which is kinda logical. IMHO there are no sources reliable to 100%, but I´ll try to explain. There are variables such as voltage and load/resistance which are unknown in some declarations. First we have Philo´s homepage as a good source when it comes to all kind of Lego motors characteristics. Then there is Sariel´s gear calculator where you can see theoretical output values of different gear redactions combined with the Lego motors. Before the update there were different rpm data related to 7V and 9V which is a significant difference, now we have only 9V for comparison. When it comes to the CaDA motors, we have the data from the set C64053W where they are being used. I´ve had written down the exact rpm from a different source some time ago, but don´t remember where it was, so I have no reference. It would be nice to have an independent comparison together with the BuWizz characteristics added as well. I have preliminaryly summarized my collected data as following, maybe it can serve as some orientation anyway: LEGO buggy motor CaDA racing motor Philo´s homepage Sariel´s gear calculator CaDA homepage unknown source 9V 9V 7,4 V ? inner output (r/pm) 1700 (no-load) 1069 1069 1800 1860 outer output (r/pm) 1240 (no-load) 780 780 ? 1344 P.S.: let´s discuss it further in the generic topic.