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DrJB

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by DrJB

  1. DrJB
    If I understand your request correctly, then all you need to ask is 'What is the diameter of the lego GBC balls?' ... and to my recollection, it was 14 mm. Very easy. If someone has a 'better' number, please come forward and help out.
  2. DrJB
    I stumbled upon this on youtube ... fascinating, as complex as the real thing.
  3. DrJB
    I did not mean that you'd go and test your glass balls on other people GBCs ... What I meant is, unless you're akiyuki, you will most likely begin by replicating many of the GBCs out there (e.g. on Philo's website). If you do that, such GBCs may not be forgiving to the extra weight of the balls. Also, maybe not wear pey say, but many GBCs involve balls being lifted and dropped. Glass falling/hitting on plastic will ultimately make dents. That being an issue is really up to you whether it is important for you to keep your lego parts smooth and shiny or .. make theme disposable/replacable. GBCs (with plastic balls) are notorious for undergoing 'serious' wear and many peolpe who display them at Lego events typically let them run for hours to make sure they won't fail midway through the show. Lastly, go ahead and try your balls, we're all looking for alternatives to the plastic/rare lego balls. If you find they work, there'll be many grateful GBC'ers.
  4. DrJB
    You're absolutely correct. That LXF was done to illustrate how in-wheel final reductions work. Because the Y-liftarm comes with an AXLE hole, it is difficult to prevent the whole assembly from sliding off. Had the Y-liftarm been with a smooth hole, there would have been options. Now, to prevent the assembly to 'fall off' (as you say it), you need to restrain the wheel from the opposite side (pic below). This also gives better support than the single axle from the vehicle/chassis end. http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/djamil/Planetary-Gear/planet4.jpg
  5. DrJB
    Tough decision ... I'd go with the 8043. Yes there was an issue with the linear actuators as you mentioned, but that same set was recalled and all defective LAs were re-designed / replaced. The Lego Group was replacing the defective actuators for free some time back, but you need to check and ensure they still would ... should you get a defective/used unit. I do have the 'fixed' 8043 and it is a nice machine, with 4 M motors and 2 remotes. If you opt for a used set, make sure it is clean ... with eBay, and depending on the seller you risk getting scratched/damaged parts. If you go with 42006, rather than buying the extra parts individually, might be worthwhile to buy a second set and get new motors from TLG. They cost $7.50 each which is not too bad.
  6. DrJB
    That is neat ... I have done something similar to replicate the final planetary reduction in wheel hubs of large machinery. There, the internal gear (power miner here) is typically attached to the chassis/axle. An LXF of such design can be found below. http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=536390 http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/djamil/Planetary-Gear/planet0.jpg
  7. DrJB
    Are those made of glass? If so, they may not work with many of the GBCs out there because of the extra weight ... unless you limit the number of balls going into a specific GBC at any given time. Plus,and again because of the weight, those may cause more wear on the various plastic parts. I would 'test' them with caution.
  8. DrJB
    I bet the springs are out-sourced i.e., Lego must buy them from someone else ... and that someone else forgot to 'heat temper' those springs. In the automotive, this would lead to a major recall. Here however, I agree that a call to TLG should resolve this issue.
  9. DrJB
    Load the file in Lpub.
  10. DrJB
    That's exactly it. Oil is essentially not compressible. Many hydraulic installations, e.g the loader arm of a backhoe, the operator sends enough oil to move the arm to a given position and then he can stop there. This, he can do no matter how much load the bucket is carrying. There are safety precautions/protocoles preventing him from doing this, but that's another discussion.
  11. DrJB
    Sounds like you got a varied taste ... some of us are pure technic and nothing else ... though ... what is CMF ?
  12. DrJB
    The main 'reality' with pneumatics, whether in Lego or in real life, is that it is very difficult to do precise position control. Most pneumatic (industrial) applications I have seen have an actuator either fully closed or fully extended. There is nothing in between for a very simple reason. One cannot do position control (easily) as that specific position depends on how much load there is on the transducer's end, simply because of air's inherent compressibility. Think of the doors in buses, pneumatic cylinders are used to keep the doors either fully open or fully closed, not in between. So, asking for precise control from pneumatics is a challenge ... way bigger than Lego.
  13. DrJB
    I like the one on the left, probably because of the lights .... one question though: why do you need the name 'BUS' on the model?
  14. DrJB
    ... would have been my guess as well about the camel ... does not look like those in the Prince of Persia sets ... those have a 'plastic' look to them.
  15. DrJB
    It comes out to about the same price. The long rack sells for over $3.00 and the small racks for about $0.60. Since the long is about 5x as long as the short, it's almost breakeven.
  16. DrJB
    You're absolutely correct. I must have missed it the first time and did not realize there were two entries. Great job that you've done, and it has the attachments and B-model as well. Now one question remains: You know where one can find instructions for the model displayed above (from bricklink) ? It uses the CyberMaster scout and looks very similar to the A-model .... unless it's an idea that never 'took-of'.
  17. DrJB
    Thanks, but that request is 'old', and the scans on brickfactory are of a printed manual, not the actual building instructions. Since then, SR71 found the movie, and I made an LXF file out of it. The LXF should be fairly easy to step through.
  18. DrJB
    LXF file has now been updated with two of the plane's attachments (winch + bomb dropper). Which reminds me: I thought TLG did not do anything related/suggestive of military/guns/ ... etc. Would this be one of those exceptions?
  19. DrJB
    I agree fully, but I do not have the small 3L cardans. I have quite a few of the 4L though, and those are too big. I also put a note in my brickshelf folder that none of this work is mine and referred the reader to you and this thread. Hope it's ok.
  20. DrJB
    Sure, here is a full 'underside' shot. http://www.brickshel...h/underside.png The modified LXF file is available on my brickshelf folder. All modifications I made are highlighted with WHITE parts. http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=535841
  21. DrJB
    Which Lego Set did the Camel come in?
  22. DrJB
    Nicely done. The photo before last (in yellow) reminds me of 2 recent American vehicles, the Chrysler/Plymouth Prowler and a very 'retro' GM pick up truck (can't recall the name).
  23. DrJB
    If you're considering building this and are short on cardans the two shown in the above picture are not needed and can be replaced by a #2 straight connector. Edit: However, as pointed out by PG52 himself, the cardans are preferred as they do not introduce much friction.
  24. DrJB
    On bricklink, the picture for 8450 includes a 'scout'. However, the instructiions on dailymotion include only the basic model (without the scout). Does anyone have the larger model depicted on the bricklink photo (below)? http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemPic.asp?S=8450-1
  25. DrJB
    Get the FLL 2012 Senior Solutions 9657-1 off eBay. If lucky, you'll have tons of parts (and 28x black + 4x white 5x9 technic panels) for about $40.00.
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