DrJB

It turned out very nice indeed ... thank you for sharing your WIP ... though, isn't orange the official Klaas color?

It came in two different colors: Yellow, and light gray. The 8420 set had many 'unique' parts in it as well ... that were never sold in other sets.

Thank you ... I 'knew' it had to be somehintg 'trivial' .... Jim, there might be no point keeping this thread, feel free to remove. ... and Thank You.

Has there been 40 different flagships? .... or that includes multiple copies of some?

Whoever recently complained that there is no uniform scale across technic sets may have his wish granted. I see more and more of those wheels on recent sets ... and on very similar-sized trucks. I'll mention 8041-1 , 8052-1 , 8071-1 , 8109-1 , 8292-1 . IN fact those same wheels are on the EV3 sets as well ... I'd call this set a 'medium' size at best ... and possibly there is a good market justification for it, but really ... I'm happier with more 'innovations' as when TLG introduced the telehandler 8295-1, wheel loader 8265-1 and off-roader 8297-1 in the same year. All those 3 were quite substantial and would have qualified for the 'flagship' title in their own right ... Looks like time to quit the hobby for few years, and come back later ... Edit: ... Nah, I'll stick around for the NEW COLORS

My son (who's into Technic/Mindstorms now) has a 'bad' tendency that .... if he wants a given/specific part .... he would tear down the whole set just to borrow that part. Of course then if the set is into pieces, it goes into a big box for 'to be fully disassembled / spare parts' ... I've told him some sets are a no-no such as the 8043/8110/8421/... On the bright side, it might be more fun to rebuild some of the old sets (8466 ...) on some cold/snowy christmas holiday...

Title is self-explanatory .... DOes this have to do with number of replies/views ... OP's 'rank' ...?

I should start another 'sister' thread to this one ... entitled: Technic Sets to be displayed only and never 'messed with' again ...

There are many criteria by which to decide if a given set is worth displaying, or better be 'recycled'. Such criteria can be aesthetics, number of motorized functions, or ultimately number of unique/interesting parts. This thread is about which of those sets you feel are best dismantled/recycled. I'll start with 5 .... 1. Backhoe with linear actuators 8069 - Cannot compare to the 8455 .... hence to the spare parts bin. 2. Mobile Crane 8053 - it's only a set of parts, especially if you have 8421 3. Jet Plane 9394 - The many red panels could be put to better use 4. Race Truck 8041 ... nothing dramatic about the design ... plus, black panels are very useful 5. Pick-Up Tow Truck 9395 ... many nice parts and little playability. Any others you can think of?

You got it ... but blue is ok as well ... as NH makes yellow forage harvesters, but blue tractors.

My favorite color for Forage Harvesters is .... Yellow

Just missed one 5571 on eBay ... it was 'only' $255 ...

Enlightening as always Philo ... Thank You! Will go home and check my 20+ sensors tonight ... with an RCX of course.

Ditto! A while back I bought 2 copies of 8455 ... One I built immediately, other went into spare parts. Glad I did, as now I have almost enough cylinders to build such truck!

Seems this thread has taken on a life of its own ... fascinating.

Rather than testing them on the RCX, I would try them first on a power supply (battery box) + motor (or light). Press button and see what happens .... Normally doing so will short the two leads (close the circuit) and the motor will stop running and light turn off. If that does nothing, then your sensor is damaged. If they work, then something is wrong with your RCX ...

Some AFOLs (me one of them) are already very unhappy with the plethora of 'small' parts prervalent in so many of the recent-years sets ...

If they kept he same scale, we would not have seen the Technic Space Shuttle nor the 8110 unimog, or the two different-scale Ferrari F1 cars ... The Space Shuttle scale was that of the City minifig (based on seats installed in there) ... and those same minifigs would feel rather 'small' in the seats of other sets I mentioned above.

It is a bit better now, but we have another problem. 1. The bottom part (dark gray) of the turntable is fixed, and thus it will NOT rotate. 2. When the center 8t gear rotates a speed X, the 3L liftarm will rotate with speed X/4. 3. Because the 3L liftarm is secured to the top part (black) of the turntable, such part will also rotate with speed X/4. 4. Thus, we have the longvertical center axle that will rotate at X, and the 'superstruture' (aka yellw bricks) will rotate with speed X/4 5. The bottom 3 horizontal axles will NOT rotate (about their own axis) 6. However, because of the speed difference in #4 above, the mid 3-axis (at 120 degrees) will rotate about their own axis with speed (X-X/4)×Gear_Ratio = (3X/4)×12/8 = 9X/8. 7. All of this is fine, assuming this is what you intended to do ... but there is a small hiccup ... 8. Because the 3L liftarm now rotates about the vertical axis, it will INTERFERE with the worm gear. 9. The fix here should be simple, all you need to do is lower the worm gear (+8t gear) by one 1L. Let us know how this evolves ... the contraption looks nice.,. and playing with planetaries is 'never' trivial.

Thank you Dino ... for such enlightening exposé. My initial post was aimed at exactly that ... todemystify the job a bit, and explain that it is way more than just upholding the rules. After all, these forums, for as good as they look, do need quite a bit of 'maintenance'... and in the digital/virtual world, nothing is absolutely self-maintained. Cheers.

In your LXF file, you're using a 'planetary' gear system. The center 8t gear will spin at 1/8 the speed of the worm-gear. However, there is no way to calculate the exact RPMs of both the turntable and the 3L liftarm (under the turntable) that is holding the 2 planetary 8t gears. Which one will spin and how fast depends on the load on the two and how much friction is present. If however you fix the 3L liftarm (prevent it from rotating), then the turntable will spin at 1/3 the RPM of the center 8t gear. This is because the turntable has 24 teeth on its inner gear, and 24/8=3. Thus, still immobilizing the 3L liftarm, the turntable will spin at 1/3×1/8=1/24 times the RPM of the worm gear. Hope this helps, else, ask again.

You're absolutely right ... and please do not get me wrong. My point was more an admission that 'I' will never find the patience/dedication to do such work. That makes your accomplishment it even more appreciable ... May you have many 'fun' hours doing the larger models. Happy building & 'stop-motioning'.

Fair enough ... I was merely trying to get a feel as to what various people/users THOUGHT your job required. I was not really after the 'official' job description.

So, it seems our mods are always there, not just 'enforcing' the forum's policies, but as well 'cleaning-up' after our comments and keeping this 'house' organized. I wonder, what does it take to be a Mod, the time commitment, the perks ... all that. No, just in case you're wondering, I'm not after upgrading my résumé! Go ahead: What do you think the job requires and what do they get in return? ... I'm hoping the actual mods will let few answers come in before jumping in and telling us what we got right, and what we got wrong.

It seems we're keeping our recently 'appointed' mod rather busy ... your dedication is commendable (I used such word twice today on this forum).