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z3_2drive

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by z3_2drive

  1. z3_2drive
    The four large shocks on my RC chassis are under constant compression but they have not deformed at all. So you probably have a defective spring. Is it only the one?
  2. z3_2drive
    the pumps and cylinders are not linked together, but the torque of the motors causes the rear to go down under braking and raise with acceleration, as the suspension is always somewhat compressed when driving(like in real cars), a perfect balance between soft and stiff. The switches just switch between normal and extra-soft. As for tires, these Unimog tires keep the car more steady and under control, especially in wet conditions. As for return to center I believe it makes no difference, but balloon tires IMO result in less wheel-vibration when steering. This is because they can lean while the flat unimog tires skip across the surface, if you know what I mean-since Lego rubber is extremely hard and plastic-like, so the tires can't deform when turning. Non lego tires would be perfect but you would need a good balance between soft and hard to get the best handling. And non lego tires tend to weigh more
  3. z3_2drive
    Awesome! I had a go at a 4-buggy motor Trial truck but it was so powerful It stripped my gears(especially 12t), in the future I plan to make a stronger, simpler version of it. The suspension you made is incredible!
  4. z3_2drive
    The long-delayed pictures: ^the dust guard keeps the motors safe ^the battery fits very snug between the beams. And if you were wondering, the batteries used to make the pack are similar to these: http://www.ebay.com/...=item43bedcd4a8 ^the rear of the chassis does bend a bit under full compression. ^the pneumatic pump provides some extra stiffness when engaged, just like the large cylinders at the rear. the front subframe is angled up in order to have positive caster without weakening/complicating the suspension and increases overall handling capabilities-the car can drive straight even when you remove the steering links ^I pulled off the symmetrical look I wanted Here are some new photos with a few tweaks/add-ons I made: ^at the time of the photo there was a very light drizzle, so I put on the top motor-cover. ^everything is nice and protected so there is no damage, but I still only tolerate the lightest of rains as to not risk anything... The black lego wire in the center is the servo wire, connected to the motor controller. You simply need to know which of the 4 sub-wires control the servo's movements and connect them properly. After that you can change the steering direction while mounting the servo or on the remote control. ^these are the only parts that ever get damaged-as you can see they are easily replaceable-no shame in being lost during battle ^I even went ahead and covered the end of the lego extension wire that connects with the end of the servo's wire. And finally a burnout on the wet ground Hope it answered any questions or helped you in your own RC-MOC pursuits!
  5. z3_2drive
    Possibly; it's Florida and it's not a public place
  6. z3_2drive
    Hahah with most lego models that's true, but I built this to last, as I said it even barrel-rolled and not a piece came off pictures will be soon by the way, I'm quite busy lately. Thanks for all the positive feedback! And as for the meltdown, I've been running this setup for a couple months, and all the parts, from the battery to motors to cables, are running perfectly This model has a dust cover under the rear axle to protect the motors just in case.
  7. z3_2drive
    If the ground is dusty or slightly wet it can hold drifts around large turns with some slight counter-steer Thanks! But I think any more weight would reduce acceleration, Unless I use a bunch of flex axles which I don't have much of one color.
  8. z3_2drive
    I only saw the title and went nuts, I love Touring cars! Looks fantastic already, especially the rear :thumbup:
  9. z3_2drive
    Thanks to all of you, pictures will come soon, right now I'm very tired and as for part wear-it's actually pretty good this time around, only some slight dust at the portal hub area, which can be solved with a bit of lithium grease but it's not necessary. The main wear and tear comes if the car "bottoms-out" and the two perpendicular axle/pin connectors underneath the front axle get scraped. Other than that, this is one tough Lego chassis! EDIT: To put it in perspective, if you think it's fast, this model is noticeably slower than V1 and V3, those were complete speed demons! But, V1 and V3 had much higher wear on parts with their independent rear suspension, and parts sometimes broke, along with the wheels/suspension being wobbly-which lead to not-so great handling. V2 was a test chassis that I had a great front end idea with but terrible rear axle, only ran it once...but V4 combined the best of all 3, improved on each aspect, and is great fun without any hassles!
  10. z3_2drive
    Yes, they add stiffness and smoothness to the suspension which it really needs-the rigid structure allows the dampers to actually help a lot Thanks for the compliments!
  11. z3_2drive
    Ok, after figuring out some video problems I am going to post about my final satisfaction out of my Four chassis builds. While V4 may be slower (slower output), It is extremely robust, simple and has the best handling out of the Four . It is powered by four Buggy motors and steering uses the servo motor. Electronics-wise it uses the same hobby-grade motor controller, receiver and transmitter that I have mentioned before and my custom battery. These are the only non lego parts Performance is great, and a couple days ago during some play I managed to barrel-roll it, only knocking the project box containing the electronics a bit loose For now I only have the video to show, but I will upload pictures soon
  12. z3_2drive
    Looks awesome! What are the two shock absorbers for that are under the hood?
  13. z3_2drive
    Unless they design new parts/motors. I think I've reached the limit with my latest build. Any further would require better motors and a stronger but greater variety of suspension/driveline parts. The weak point of my V1-V3 cars were the u-joints, as I even broke the old red ones. V4 has a suspended solid direct drive axle to get around that. Better motors would help support the weight of the car and increase acceleration - which is what stops me from being able to use a body for the chassis.
  14. z3_2drive
    RC, in the form of PF wouldn't interest me unless they released stronger u-joints/CV joints, since it just makes the price soar up.
  15. z3_2drive
    All I could dream for is a new supercar with mostly manual functions with new gearbox and drivetrain/suspension parts
  16. z3_2drive
    Oh, Don't worry, I was building the suspension and trying out all my shocks/dampers at the same time as you made this thread, no copying And I agree with sergiu - the scale of the vehicle needs to be very large and heavy or if medium then used in a rear live axle.
  17. z3_2drive
    I have finished my Large RC Chassis V4, which has the best handling of all my versions, but is very heavy and has reduced acceleration. For both front and rear axles I used these 'dampers', along with tubing and switches, to give a 'soft' and 'stiff' setting, which is pretty useful I may post pictures here soon or make a new thread!
  18. z3_2drive
    A motor considering your usual tinkering
  19. z3_2drive
    the snowmobile's new suspension pieces and lime parts seem promising, along with the cargo plane with all the beautiful white and blue panels and hopefully a lot of functions
  20. z3_2drive
    Really loving this! Turned out perfect and glad you guys are having fun! My obstacle course is the outdoors Soon I hope to test my 4-buggy motor crawler/truck I'm working on
  21. z3_2drive
    That's fine, and no! It added weight but the increased strength and slight change in the center of gravity was definitely worth it! Thanks! Thank you
  22. z3_2drive
    Ok, it is finished, and I believe this is the most capable vehicle I have ever built...sadly I can't take good pics till tomorrow, but I'm so happy I had to blurt it out No caster, but has slight negative camber and ackerman geometry about a video...we'll have to wait and see
  23. z3_2drive
    On the rear axle, replace the two 4l black axles(going into new style hubs) with dark grey 4l with stop, and thus replace the 1/2 bushes with two stacked 3l thin liftarms (+o+) only on one side and a pin for the middle hole, like a 1.5l dark grey one. This will be much stronger and I just hate the use of 1/2 bushings as securing pieces
  24. z3_2drive
    Just measured, I got: Wheel+Lego 94.8x44r=57 grams and Wheel+Losi Rock Claws=63 grams
  25. z3_2drive
    Ok, so after many attempts of making a rally style/long travel suspension with 8880 parts I came to a conclusion that the ring hubs were too soft. Then I tried it with the 42000 type hubs and then the CV joint became the weak-point so after many tries I just scrapped the idea I decided to make a V2 of my original wide, low, and short travel suspension and upgraded it in every aspect Listing the improvements: stronger suspension with more bracing and well-thought out design stronger driveshafts using the old style red u-joints (honestly don't understand why they dropped this part) wider as a result of longer u-joints no parts that can slide out under high stress/vibration at top speed now with sway-bars/anti-roll bars. They don't add too much stiffness in corners but it definitely helps and is a nice touch No more solid axle=better cornering control, less stress on the whole system, driveshafts in particular. Here are the photos (I am using the Losi Rock Claw tires) demonstrating the swaybar: Underside shot (oddly less interesting than the top ): Hope you guys like it! feel free to comment/critique and wish me luck with the front!
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