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z3_2drive

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by z3_2drive

  1. Great video! @ l motors is definitely enough if not overkill for a small model like this And don't be mad at scratched beams and motors, they are battle scars, as I call them
  2. Looks great, love the compact axles and steering
  3. Love the second body, too much BOSS going around so you have extension cables going to a battery box?
  4. Thanks for all the comments :) I will post a link when I get my prototype finished. Today the project box arrived, so I tested the car with just an axle and two wheels as a placeholder in the front, and I Iove it! Acceleration is smooth and I can drive it slowly indoors and spin the tires and watch it rocket forward with enough space And having the car against a wall, the torque spins the tires at speed, no stalling I will have to be careful driving this
  5. Haha, I try to push limits to get fun and interesting results, while trying to use as many lego-only parts as possible to keep the fun in building and customizing-and I never cut parts-I did before a couple times and I regret it now But here I get the best of both worlds, performance and no loss of signal and the ability to build whatever I like A demo video will definitely come when I finish the prototype of the chassis
  6. Ok, recently I wanted to try and make a truly RC lego car but I did not want to try and find the lego one since it's rare, huge, and might not offer as good performance, so (these parts are pretty pricey, but you get what you pay for) we got a motor controller, ESC and remote. The motor controller is pretty heavy-duty so I might use it in the future if I buy a hobby kit crawler. I got my 4th buggy motor, and we made a new battery pack from better batteries with twice the capacity and more power, and it's only a 3-cell pack for 4 motors so it saves on weight and space. I made a direct drive (no differential) but I think it will handle fine considering my last large PF car was the same way and it had no problems, and lego differentials won't be strong enough and will result in lower efficiency. I'm making the frame and front axle but have little time since school started again. I'm also waiting for the clear project box to keep the ESC and motor controller in, safe from damage. Here are the photos of it so far: ^ground clearance is low and there is some negative camber upon compression. I did this because it's simple, strong, and it will reduce the chances of it flipping at the speeds it will reach ^I love the way the motors and servo react to the new remote, all smooth and proportional as it should be, all is adjustable, my days of running after my large projects are finally over! I'll keep you guys updated when I make reasonable progress.
  7. look how old the topic is, this thing is long gone but I hope to start on two new projects soon... one: rc car with non lego rc receivers and 4 buggy motors, since Infrared is so limiting and and official lego ones are extremely rare or expensive, and not always reliable, and large...you get the idea it will be a fun car to drive but a nightmare for purists the other is a simple lightweight crawler, and don't worry, the only non-lego parts will be the battery and tires, which are the Losi Rock Claws which came in today
  8. I just went and bought from that seller as well I've seen videos and they perform really well
  9. Here's my car, just to see how the steering is incorporated, along with some fun testing ^rear axle is direct drive with no diff. While it may reduce cornering (unless it starts to drift ) it helps keep stable at top speed and there is minimum power loss. ^when suspension is compressed (such as when hitting a bump at high speed or going over rough terrain) there is some toe-in, which is perfect because it will keep the car straight and it wont lose control I may make a video today or tomorrow if I have time. EDIT: I tested inside because I knew I'd crash eventually with the poor IR signal And I did, but a near full speed crash will make anything with lego fall apart, in this case the front axle assembly separated from the rest of the chassis. As for steering-everything is perfect except the steering rack came out so one tie-rod separated from the rack but not the hub, but trust me, at top speed, along with some small jumps, this holds together perfectly during a crash I actually think sections coming apart is better, since it absorbs the impact instead of the pieces at the very front taking all the force and possibly breaking.I like the setup in your video a lot, it could be used for a large scale stadium buggy or baja truck.
  10. No problem, I might use it soon anyway on a large RC car, and do you have a lego.com account so you can buy from lego direct?
  11. Wow! that's impressive, and the car can move all that weight efficiently?
  12. because there is no efficient way to mount them that way without the shocks bending, there are too many offsets, and this gives a softer and slightly more travel suspension movement
  13. Just built this, hope it helps: Enjoy! And yeah those hubs are pretty good aside from the slight wobble.
  14. 4-6 buggy motors? sounds beastly My idea uses the new hubs though, which I got from Lego Direct. Since I took it apart I will have to rebuild it or find pics.
  15. Does it have to have high clearance? Can it be RWD? If not I can show you some pictures in a day or two of a pretty nice front suspension I used on a car built for speed, and it could handle bumps and jumps no problem, only the bottom got scraped a bit by the asphalt, which wont be an issue on dirt/you could add a skid-plate. It also has caster so steering is better. Edit: for the rear, whether you use suspension or not, try to do direct drive. Even a single pair of gears will drastically reduce power, or at least perpendicular bevel gears.
  16. True, true. I will definitely make improvements, but the front suspension just has too much wobble in the steering, so I may go for a different setup or different car.
  17. Spacers were temporary while I tried to widen the axle itself. The rear does have a fixed wishbone(that part does not move side to side at all with an axle through it. I get what you mean with the liftarm and might use that. As for 6l links this might not work since the rear axle was widened, but I don't have this build with me so i can't test it out for two days.
  18. Maybe. Right now, after many tests and small changes I've come to a conclusion that the Macpherson setup offers too much wiggle room for steering, but, I have many cars in mind with better suspension. Main two ideas at this point:1) go with a completely new car, either skyline r34/r32(AWD but double wishbone) Honda s2000(RWD and double wishbone-may be simplest and strongest, and least friction) which means new frame and new suspension ideas 2)Make the evo like the team Orange (Drift racing team) version with a RWD conversion so I can implement a different front suspension with the current dimensions. Either idea is good but making an entirely new frame may offer a chance to use better/stronger bracing from the very beginning Wish me luck!
  19. It's great! although the suspension seems to have positive camber...
  20. I put a bit of white lithium grease and it helps a bit. In small models they do, since originally they were made for bionicle figures to have movable but not wobbly limbs. But in a large scale car like this with stiff suspension there's no problem Meanwhile I've been doing a little scale building to some blueprints and here's what I got so far: ^It may seem a bit long but trust me the dimensions are all to scale length, wheelbase, wheel size, wheel width etc. ^I need to make a BL order before building the right rear suspension and front steering. ^The only dimension that is off is the front axle width, by only one centimeter. I'll leave it as is because I don't feel like completely changing the suspension all over again. ^I couldn't think of a better MacPherson setup other than nicjasno's. I modified his to have a longer width and no CV joints. The upper brace was too high so after taking these photos I simply flipped it upside down, leaving two or so studs of space for the hood if I go through with this build. ^I lengthened the width of the rear axle by two studs, meaning one stud on each side. I need to get more of the light bley Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular Double 4L ^The frame is as rigid as possible in the center and front but the rear may be further reinforced in the future.
  21. Today this beast was unleashed...maybe you could make a revamped version of this MOC according to it -
  22. Thanks! I've watched all of his videos in the past and know lots about suspension types, just was interested in other member's ideas Ti-Max (Welcome to EB!) , that's pretty neat how you managed all that in such a small scale! I also got around to making my first prototype yesterday, here it is: It includes all the links I mentioned and is pretty robust, and the hub, especially when using the 8448's wheels, is as close to the center of the wheel as can be Here's the rest:
  23. I've been looking at different cars lately and one I really like is the Mitsubishi Evo X. An idea of mine was to create suspension models as small MOCs, similar to how lego made engines as sets a long time ago. But with limited photos it's pretty confusing, but here are some: ^The way I see it, there is one wishbone on top, a pair of separate links at the bottom, and a last link visible in the next photo. Also there is a swaybar, shock, and driveshaft. ^the last link is easily seen here (in the back), and the front is a MacPherson Strut setup. What I wanted to ask is for some feedback on what parts (technic or bionicle) that I could use the replicate this. When I get some decent progress in, I will post photos here. Thanks!
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