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z3_2drive

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by z3_2drive

  1. Except mine My next post will show a proper sturdy suspension capable of high torque and speeds definitely over 15kmh
  2. Parts arrived a couple days ago now experimenting with ideas. 8880 suspension is awesome except for one thing: the white ring hub is easily bendable so it's hard to make a sturdy connection to the chassis (part where steering links connect to) <this part of the ring hub
  3. I love anti-roll bars, they work great for track cars. Once I get my suspension parts from Germany I will try to implement one in my large RC car build
  4. I see them fine and link works for me
  5. Brickshelf must have been down temporarily. Here's the link http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=533448 And If you want extreme performance then Hobby RC is for you but the hobby requires quite a lot of money. If you're looking for the building experience and ability to make whatever you want then Lego is for you. With this build I am creating something in between As for buggy motors, in the past I spotted, on two different occasions, a buggy motor for less than $30 on BL, so I got them. The 3rd and recently 4th were more expensive, up to $45, but I needed them so I got them anyway. As for an update on the car, parts have yet to arrive from Germany but I've been experimenting so the build will be smooth and simple when I finally get the parts. Wheelbase will definitely be shorter, but I'm not sure by how much.
  6. The remote is hobby RC standard with 3 channels, two for drive+steer and one for accessories like lights, it is made by the company Futaba and came together with the receiver. The motor controller was bought separate, and is made by a company called Polulu. Yes I noticed the chassis was quite long but if you compare it to a real car the dimensions are relatively normal. V3 may have a slightly shorter wheelbase
  7. Awesome but steering seems a bit flimsy if you were to build it in real life, other than that
  8. yes, which allows for smooth steering
  9. Here is a photo to explain. The black rectangle is the receiver and the green board is the motor controller. The receiver is connected to the motor controller with two channels. One is for drive and one is for steering. The four wires from the buggy motors connected to channel 1 on the motor controller (wire is coming in from the right) and the servo is connected to channel 2 (black pf cable coming in from the left). The motor controller powers the servo based on commands from the receiver, which receives signal from the transmitter inside the remote.
  10. On rough dirt Maybe but the rubber is very hard so it might slip on smooth surfaces.
  11. I do have return to center, and proportional
  12. You have to connect it to the motor controller in the correct fashion. We couldnt get it to work at first but then got it right after seeing this: Then you can switch polarity and adjust it to your liking depending on what Remote/receiver you have.
  13. UPDATE: I built V2 but I didn't like it at all, so I ordered the old Red U-joints along with 8880 suspension parts from Germany, so the car will go through another re-build. Something I'm thinking of implementing is a swaybar, since a car of this size may need it for better handling, and I know how to implement it. In the meantime here are some pics of the old V1:
  14. I'm in love with this MOC Perfect in all aspects, can't wait to see it perform
  15. Are you so sure? This is my crawler from a while ago and it seems to be the same setup as his The pieces which the bottom of the shocks are attached to have to be able to move side to side and I think his crawler has this setup....if not then he definitely needs to make it that way.
  16. @piterx, The Glitch Mob is great for everything I personally would go for electronic or rock, and electronic (being so many different types) needs to fit the MOC, like calm or fast. You can use pretty much anything as long as it fits the pace, lighting, or theme of the MOC and video. Here's a few great ones that I listen to http://grooveshark.com/#!/s/Stay+Crunchy/4AYc7X?src= 5 http://grooveshark.com/#!/s/Radio+Heart/4LxXAW?src=5 http://grooveshark.com/#!/s/The+Answer/2Oyga8?src=5 http://grooveshark.com/#!/s/Let+s+Talk+About+It/1WiXPM?src=5
  17. weight distribution...well I don't know exact ratios but I tried to get it to have slightly more in the back but not too much or else the front would have no grip. Having slightly more weight in the back ensures it's easy to control but fun to kick out the rear under throttle I'll make some pics and hopefully a video before I start the re-build. The steering is proportional return-to-center as in all hobby RC cars, it works like a dream
  18. By popping out I mean they come apart under torque. The U-joint is made of 3 pieces and these separate under stress, but you can put them back together. They aren't 'aligned' but there's no room for them to come out that way. As for 8880 suspension It may be a good idea but I am not sure if they are strong enough (the shaft and sphere gear) and very hard to come by in US BL stores...
  19. I think I managed to damage even the new 8t gear with a worm gear and an L motor, so it's just a heads-up that you might risk damaging something and not to mention the crawler will be dreadfully slow, which some people do but it just gets boring to watch when they move at a snail's pace. Crawlers are easy to control even when they have a decent speed. If you still want to go with your idea the best thing to do is to test your worm gear idea and either prove us wrong or realize your mistake so you will remember it for the future. And having a 'Version 1' is always good so you can find any additional things to improve on, such as your suspension which I am eager to see how it handles
  20. UPDATE: Since I'm away from my collection I fixed the joints and went back out for some proper testing to collect some observations about what needs to be improved on in the re-build. I was careful not to mash the throttle in order to spare the joints, but still had to pop them back into place about 10 times I did various tests: Top speed: crazy fast, so glad for the proportional steering and super long range I wouldn't be able to chase this down at full sprint Handling: Turning circle is much smaller than I thought it would be, and overall handling was pretty good except for wheel wobble at high speed* The camber helped for sure but it is actually not too necessary. Strength: This is the car's weakest area, mostly due to the rushed build. Also due to the low ride height (I hit a bump/raised piece of the road and the front shattered but was easily fixed) which reminds me I need to make a bumper for the re-build. My conclusion: The next prototype will be more of a rally-style with higher ride height and long travel, more robust suspension for the front and a new live axle for the rear, so I can use the power without the fear of smashing it somewhere but all in all I'm pretty f*cking impressed :thumbup: I may take a video, but don't count on it
  21. Too much difference in camber during travel, don't worry I will brainstorm many ideas BTW in my haste to build the prototype I stumbled upon a neat way to secure irregular objects (like the battery) to the frame...simply use pneumatic tubing! A tight wrap 2 or 3 times and a way of securing the ends will ensure that nothing will come loose :thumbup:
  22. anything larger than the 3l's would be hard to implement and would make the car too wide. The unimog hub idea sounds interesting, so I'll be experimenting with it in my free time
  23. It is a Futaba remote and receiver, but i forgot who the motor controller is made by. Anyway, today I rushed and built the prototype in an hour and a half, pressured on time because I had to leave home. I tested it at the new location where i'll be for the weekend, and my conclusion: U-Joints are OUT! They don't even come close to handling the torque. But before they came apart I was able to reach some pretty high speeds and I wasn't even at full throttle so my next step is to do a complete re-build so the rear axle will be a simple live axle or maybe no suspension??...and i will have another go at the front axle to make something more robust. The point is...IT WILL BE DONE!
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