Werlu Ulcur

Yeah, I've heard people saying the same thing. It's a set that looks cool, but it's a "closed end" set that you can't do much with.

That's my complaint too. Well, not exactly pulling out the battery box, but getting the batteries out of the battery box.

PLEASE post pics!

Well, it looks "like a "static" diorama, like if you took out a section of a much bigger scene.

Friggentastic Daedalus, thanks a bunch! This is exactly what I needed! So I guess my EN will have a "power tender" . I'll try to get the extras at the same time when I get the set, so that I can put the whole thing together at once. I'm also looking into a way of implementing some 9v lights in the loco - I'm confident that using a non-Lego solution would be easy to do, and NO WIRES to the tender. But I'll have to figure that out on the fly. Thanks everyone (and specially Daedalus) for the feedback, it's not always that you get the opportunity of knowing what do to to a set to make it better even before you get it .

Thanks buddy! I'm dieing to see this!

Absolutely fantastic! And look at that tender! :wub: :wub: I loved your idea of how to replicate the stairs up front. Honestly, one of the great train MOCs I've seen around here!

My issue is much worse: lack of parts .

I can only imagine the ruckus of that thing running around a track .

Very nice! Being a MOC makes it MUCH more cooler the the HE.

Noted! I didn't have any issues with my red and yellow cargo engines, but I'll keep this in mind when I assemble my EN (which BTW, I haven't even ordered yet - my cc needs DESPERATELY to cool down first ). That would be GREATLY appreciated, if you could. But won't it look a bit weird 7 studs wide while the loco is 6 studs wide? If possible I would like to make it as "integrated" with the loco (the principal star of the show IMO) as possible. And of course, use the less bricks as possible - my spendings at BL for "just some parts to make a set better" are getting expensive .

900?!? Holy mercaptans! So I guess that means I won't make a train shed out of those bricks .

My guess would be around 400 bricks, being only a 2×2.

Daedalus, that looks very good! I can't buy two sets to make one, so widening the whole train is out of the question for me, but maybe lengthening the tender might by the best solution. If I understood your pics right, and from looking at the tender's instructions, you lengthened it only two studs? Would that be enough to accommodate the battery pack and IR receiver? The best thing about this solution is that I don't have to mess with the furnace in the loco - I was also wondering how the blazes I would manage to run the cable around it to the tender. The only drawback is the lights; with everything in the tender, I'll have the same issues with the cable from the lights. But honestly, maybe I should consider ditching the lights, or maybe, going for a non-Lego solution for the lights up front. Thanks for all the feedback, all this info will help a LOT when it's time to start bricking.

But removing all traction bands won't the wheels slip on the rails?

Thanks for the tip on the elastic bands, but my doubt is not about XL vs 9v, but XL vs PF train motor.

No way, thank YOU! I'm just the silly noob full of doubts .

Holy cow, that looks GREAT!

FANTASTIC, thanks! Just to be clear, it will elevate that section of track two plates, right? And you need to come up with a name for such an awesome project.

That looks very nice, Annie! You plan to put the receiver in the tender? And what is that cable that is coming from the loco?

Congrats, that was really deserved!

Why not go for LEDs instead of bulbs?

Absolutely awesome, thanks! What are you going to call it, the "CamelBoy Decoupler"?

Thanks, that would be very helpful .

Spitfire, if it wasn't too much trouble, could you get a pic? I looked at the instructions and it doesn't seem hard to do, but I would like to see how it looks in the brick if possible. If this is a viable option then maybe the best would be to go with the XL motor (sans furnace, of course ).