Stereo

Is this clearer? Half bush in the middle with just the tip of the driving ring on either side of it. If it's an actual half-bush then it only slides 1/4 stud either way so it might need to be a bit thinner.

Let's say "done for now" because an order I placed 3 weeks ago for a 1x5 thin purple beam and some 1x7 hasn't arrived yet, but everything else has. https://bricksafe.com/pages/Stereog/heavy-duty-forklift for several more pictures in the current state. The Purple 32009 double bent beams inspired the colour scheme and shaping; I got a Technic Competition set on sale in 1999 and haven't used them in any MOCs yet. Unfortunately the colour only ever got used in around 10 sets and the part selection is small, with most of them being rare. So white and yellow manage the more complicated shaping. Hoping for a sunny day to get some clear photos for the actual submission post. Despite using a Technic figure chair, there's unfortunately not enough headroom or legroom to put one inside. Features: - raising and lowering mast by 20 studs, using gear knobs on either side near the back tires. - tilting mast forward and back, using gear knob at the front left tires. - manually slide the forks side to side for working with different loads. - steering with Hand of God from above the engine cover, that also moves the steering wheel in the cabin. Uses ackermann geometry and reaches near 60 degrees on the inside wheel, for good turning radius. - 3 cylinder fake piston engine behind the cabin. - engine hatch to maintain the engine, and rear hatch for storage, fuel, or adding extra weights.

Just a sketch in Blender cause I'm not set up to model custom parts at accurate dimensions, but maybe you could eliminate the "1L technic connector shape" piece and mount it directly on the axle with a 30-40% width (loose) axle bushing. Gives the whole part a smaller radius that fits entirely inside the clutch gears. Then to keep the gears apart, put a spacer on the exterior, either opposite the toggle selector, or built into the wave selector's design. (edited to add) Or, make it a C-shaped ring that slides over the selector and the opening in the C is where the selector has access. It seems (at least on dk. bluish grey 16t gears) like there's about 1mm of leeway before the clutch gear has internal teeth, so I'd plan for the flange to fit into that space.

I have nostalgia for the horse and dragon from the 1990s, zero interest in anything modern, it just doesn't look like Lego to me. Though the smallest brick-built animal I can think of, that I actually like, is the shark in the Creator Pirate Ship. Smaller than that, like various birds, it's neat that they try but it isn't selling it for me. I also think it's neat that the dragon shared subparts with the crocodile at the time.

Yeah, if you put them in both ends, it's a problem. Though I think putting a bar 3/4 of the way into one usually has enough friction to pull it out of a pinhole.

From what I can see there are 4 types that'd be easy to tell apart, plus some smaller variants that are hard to tell apart. 4459 - 1980s - no middle slots 2780 - 1990s - middle slots, can't fit a bar 2780 - 2000-2020 - middle slots, can fit a bar 61332 - 2020-now - no middle slots, has a flat spot so they don't roll away. The middle slots are always at 90 degrees to the end slots that I've seen.

I'd be interested in ideas to store wheels & tires, I keep them in a few buckets by size (wheels that go on bars in the smallest category, then solid tires that use axles in the middle, then balloon Technic tires in the largest), and it makes it hard to find the ones I want. Since I generally have 4-6 of each style that go together in sets, it would take a lot of compartments to keep them by exact type. And they're relatively large parts.

https://rebrickable.com/parts/38648pat0001/ Magnifying Glass is also around 1.5 studs for the transparent part.

I think the main argument for 4 is that it spaces the doors a multiple of 4 apart, so the platform can be a fairly symmetrical build. If the doors drop from 20 to 19 or 18 studs apart, then the track ties aren't centered on each door, so the slopes attaching the platform to the tracks would move around. Which in turn gets in the way of the platform extending to meet the doors for wheelchair access. Though if they built 18 stud long cars with 2 stud gaps, same would hold true...

(frame from the promo video) I think it's green rather than Bright green, but hard to be sure. And there's a green towball as well. Probably the 2x2 plate with towball. Personally I kinda like the "colour vomit", I already have the lime version of these links, would welcome more options. But 1x of each is awkward cause I do like symmetry on my cars.

Thanks, interesting mechanisms are my main motivation to build things, more than aesthetic. Full height with the forks. Interesting problem with the helicopter blades. They came in 42125-1 and have never had any playwear, but both of them are curved the same way, so I guess it's due to the molding. But since I mount one facing "up" and the other "down", the left fork curves down and the right one curves up. Not much I can do about that. The steering link to both hand of God and a steering wheel is probably unnecessarily complex, and limits it to a 3 cylinder fake engine. I didn't really design this with a linear build order and it's leading to some interesting dependencies. The front cylinder of the engine can't be installed until the cab is on, because the axle at the front of the steering slides forward through a beam at the front of the cab, to secure its other end. The bottom of the cab is only attached to the top, so I have to build the entire cab at once and drop it in, then push this axle through, which locks it down. The engine's only temporarily placed because it drops in on top of that, but I thought it was worth making sure everything rotates. Anyway, there are some parts for the cab that I had to order from Bricklink, so I'm waiting for those to arrive before I can continue. The Grave Digger panel is likely here to stay because it's got another of those dependencies. It's attached to the frame from the middle of the chassis, and that can only be done before the worm gear that controls the elevation is in place. It was pretty inconvenient to take that out, and reinstall it with the panel partially covering it up. This shows about how much slack there is once it's loaded, the mast has to be tilted back this much for the forks to be around level. It does ok holding up my organization bin with unused parts. The weak point in the lift mechanism is the chain, which unlinks itself, at much less weight than what it takes to bend the blades. I was testing to lift the Technic Jeep set while holding the back of the forklift down, when I broke the chain. I guess running two chains would help, but then again it's Lego. Better if something unclips than bending parts.

Building IRL has gone pretty well. Needed one small modification to run smoothly. The functions work - elevation has the full 20 studs and without the cab on, it can tilt quite far back. I need to take a few things apart to get the other tires, and some parts to finish up the steering, so I paused here. The only problem with the screw mechanism is if you keep turning the knob when it's at the bottom, it'll push the screw off the axle, as the top end isn't captured by anything, so there's no hard stop. I can see some fixes but I need to look closely at it and make sure it won't run into any moving parts. I also realized my 3x7 black panels have Gravedigger stickers on them, so it might end up more dark bluish gray than black on the body. So that's another part to try to find more of.

Thanks for the link. It's more the internals I was curious about, cause I used a lot of 7 beams with alternating holes. Interesting that it has the 13 long gear rack hidden somewhere in it.

I'm not really familiar with the way people find part inventories, is this set's inventory available yet? I want the small white panels #7/#8 for my TC27 moc, and it'd be helpful to know which other parts I plan to use will be in it.

I swapped in some R104 switches, mostly because money was burning a hole in my pocket, but of course there are some tangible benefits to justify it: - switch stands are now all on the same side of the yard, instead of having to reach between the tracks. - much smoother operation than R40 curves, cars have less friction (the 4 axle locomotive I also use would stall out sometimes on the 2nd switch) - surprisingly, takes up less room, because Lego switches have the parallel track return curve built in. More specifically, this brings the tracks closer together since it's possible to go directly to the 16 stud spacing instead of overshooting, so it's about 12 studs smaller in depth. It also increases the length by one half track, technically, but that doesn't affect the footprint since it's at the thin end of the first switch. - decouplers work during the curves, since the buffers are much closer to the spacing they have on straight track. Also one tiny downside, which I narrowed down to a combination of factors most people won't need to worry about. My 2 axle cars, when using the middle-era wheelsets (with wheels that slide onto a metal axle), allow enough twist between the two axles to very briefly fall between the rails right at the points. Not likely to derail but it does slam on the brakes. This is also possible on the Lego switches, but requires a combination of curves that's generally discouraged, the immediate left-right - where for a "switch ladder" layout, the first switch's R104 left attaches directly to the second switch's R104 right. It's actually the straight through direction that has a problem, zero issue going through the S curve. Since it's relevant, I'm using BrickTracks injection molded switches, which have a single moving point (same as the Lego ones). Switches with points on both rails won't be able to do this. And like I said, it's only the one generation of wheels. I have some older ones with permanent axles and some newer ones with all-plastic construction and while they do notice the hole, they don't fall in. Four axle cars with bogies don't notice it at all. Before ordering them I went a bit obsessive with the switch math, and was interested to find out that R40 is actually the first in a series of integer triangle based switches, in that if you have a 24 stud straight, an R40 curve will go 24 studs forward, 8 studs to the side, exactly, so 2 of them back to back can connect 16 stud parallel tracks. Then the next ones are 32 stud straight at R68, 40 stud straight at R104, 48 stud at R144, 56 stud at R200. I probably would have taken R68 if they were easy to get, but it seems like 104 won out as the next size up. I haven't seen anyone else's designs for manual switch stands on the Bricktracks rotary switches, so I'm just using a Technic 90 degree elbow. Would be interested to see other solutions if there are specific bricks or prints that are good for this (maybe a 45 degree arrow on a 2x2)

I have been waiting for these to arrive in the mail, and they're here now. Got a few extras, in case I think of a reason to have a 30 stud long corkscrew. Maybe see how high the forklift can go since nothing in the rack is length-limited, it'll just get heavier and more bendy. When they're attached together perpendicularly they mesh on-grid so maybe they're suitable for some of Henry Segerman's weird rack mechanisms. Connected with axles so they're only good for compressive force to whichever end of the corkscrew is rigidly mounted, no tension, but that's not a problem for me since the chain already limits it to handling downward loads on the forks. On the design side, hand of god steering is no trouble, but if I want a working steering wheel, it's gonna need to loop over the fork control, under the fake engine, and then back upwards to the cab. So I'm not quite sure that'll work. Don't think it'll be useful to me, but if you have jumper and regular studs like this, the worm can engage them decently. Another pair of these on top and you'd have a 6 plate tall mechanism, which is probably worse than just using the cube. Maybe good for if you want a 2 plate thick thing to be moved by a stationary worm though.

Yeah, it's not really an ideal solution, the CV axles only having 2L of axle on them is another problem, it can't use the Ford GT halfshafts because it requires the 52730 CV joint with 3L axle. So I guess you'd end up with one 6 long suspension arm on that side, and a 5 long on the other side, if you wanted to hit the original track width. Or else be at least 1 stud wider.

It's functionally the same as putting a driving ring into the diff.

This needs a 9x6 "frame", but it's narrower than mounting the driving ring directly. The new type of 2 wide driving ring should have more clearance than this one, I just haven't got it in Studio yet. Depending what else is reinforcing the axles, you could even use thin liftarms to fit this in a 5 wide space.

I'm hoping for that, probably similar to the Ford GT since it's a smaller car than a Charger. Would be awkward if they don't match.

Yeah, I don't know exactly where the power transfers through, but the red 24Ts are going to a middle and side shaft, so those are presumably connected to each other in 20:12 or something.

Scribbly drawing but this is my understanding of the dimensions it uses: Black shafts have the clutch gears on them and are 3+1 offset from the drums, and then 2+1 offset from the secondary shafts in green. The 2+1 offset fits 36 gear tooth combinations (12+24, 16+20, 20+16, 24+12 all possible with existing clutch parts) The two sides link via the 45 offset knob gear.

Not surprised the shift drum is different, they don't seem to have highlighted that the orange one has its two shifts 180 degrees apart (same as the old orange shift piece) instead of 135 like the blue one. I think this makes it useful for an 8 speed gearbox where the blue one was meant for 6 speeds.

I've had problems on 2 of about 5 orders, but they sent the correct parts once I asked. First one was 1x10 plates instead of 1x8 tiles (same number+colour, I guess they just hit the wrong bin), second was x1 instead of x2 on a pretty expensive part. If it was just 10 cent parts I probably wouldn't ask. But I only use PaB when it's cheaper than Bricklink, so it tends to be expensive pieces or large quantities.

If I understand the geartrain right, it just waves the P1 and circles back and forth about 60 degrees? And overall 4.28 reduction in gears, so about 4 cranks to fully go back and forth once.