1974

I'm intrigued - what the funk does that mean, Andy? Now, I gave good, precise, info on the last trains and I do have knowlewsgy,hh ... what ... nonono! . .tyrty ik"!#T6 ,fdhgogn.... arghhhhh ... To be continued

Treasure Island! Loads of versions exists, but the best one, imho, is the 1990 adaption with Christian Bale, Oliver Reed, Charlton Heston and Julian Glover

It does, so no need for diodes at the power input of the reciever

That's a real nice set Do you remember how you got hold of that set back then? Mine were from a former schoolteacher that found them unused in a closet at her school I used to go to all the little schools on the countryside years ago asking for 'unusual musical instruments' and picked up a bunch of cool vintage synths/drummachines dirtcheap ... never thought about inquiring about LEGO

There won't be, the NDAs reach out through the known solar system and spanning infinite amount of lightyears. That said, there are snippets of info floating around the vast internet I have actually thought about writing .. something. Not en entire book, but an indepth lenghtly interview of sorts as I know two former designers and have been told a bunch of warstories, annecdotes etc. But I we'we decided against it due to not upsetting the sleeping dragon OT/

Hi Ben Welcome to EB, keep up those interesting threads (right up my alley, sets and period wise) I have the 1032/33 and 9607 sets which I picked up MISB in Billund (of all places!) 'bout a year ago for 300DKR/50US$ each They're great sets for my son to learn about Technics and gears/mechanical engineering in general I'm quite fond of DACTA sets as they often have loads of great parts/instructions, but they're not that easy to come by (and I refuse to pay silly BL prices) I can maybe help you with US relase dates, as there is some info on the back of the 1033 envelope for the cards : EDIT : The outer cardboardbox for the 1032 has the same "@1985/1990 Enfield" info Also, the 1032 set contains two 4716 wormgears which was not released in sets until 1985 Cheers, Ole

It's not that easy to make a precise cutoff at say 10.5V. Simple overvoltage protectors (VDRs etc) have a too high tolerance If you hack it just don't use 1,5V cells In that other PF thread (well one of them, there seems to be quite a lot of them recently, maybe even enough to have a general "LEGO Electricy" forum? <-- I'd support that!) I saw mentioned that the reciever does not care about polarity. That means there's an internal diode bridge with a voltagedrop. Eliminate that and motors will spin even faster Has anyone see a pic of the V2 internals? Edit : Philo has loads of info, my posts have been edited

The "0" and "9V" is for daisychaining raw power

There is no other way. If you break the limit, another one is right at the horizon You should get a 3D printer, then you could eliminate those pesky LEGO bricks all together

Maybe on your planet, but not on mine ;) You need to keep the voltage below 11V. Getting rid of the current limiter is also a good idea, you need watts/power (v x A = W) to those XLs, not just voltage Edit : Philo has all the info, forgot that! The output driver is the DRV8833. Maximum input voltage is 10.8V, maximum output current is 1,5A/2A peak but there's a fuse that really needs to be eliminated. The chip has it's own internal protection It's also possible to current limit the outputs but I do not know if TLG have done that? Triple (actually quad with the polarity bridge) protection seems to be overkill Cheers, Ole

Steelwheels and no suspension? You better have a phat big behind then 6091 comes in dark red, use four of them

Terrible peice (and I do like my (raised) baseplates, mind you), too wobbly on the top Also, the internet will implode if TLG tries to sell a UCS/D2C/10XXX set with junior piece like that

I wrote about the system scale AT-AT back then, because I had actually seen it (along with the trains and the Chima Mammoth)

This (the rot) won't happen to PF cables as they're not made from the same material. There are two different type of 9V cables btw, the 'rubber' ones (that rot) and the shinier type made of harder plastic. Last type seems to age well but are somewhat rarer I'm looking into replacing the wire on my 9V cables as I like to have custom lengths/plugs anyway. When I find the right substitute I'll spread the word

I'd say that ONE PF and ONE 9V thread would be enough to cover all bases, no? It would be nice to have all that info merged into those two

Strange post TLG's intended market with UCS/similar 10xxx/D2C sets have never been children, it has always been customers who earn their own money The amount of AFOLs today are way higher than when the 10179 was for sale. couple that with SW7 and I see no problem for TLG to sell a 500USD Falcon. IT may take quite some years, but that 'new' Falcon from Sw7 will probably also be in SW8/9 .. that's loads of years to sell +10.000 of those (which is quite a bit less than the 10188, btw) The indy dealers I know of are not invited to such meetings or are privy to that info anymore simply because they cannot sell those sets. TLG have change the game completely. So it's a bit wierd your 'bud' was in on that meeting While there's gonna be an AT-AT in the SW7 all we know so far is that it's being used as a converted home/base for some of the main characters. We do not know if they're gonna roam the planet like in ESB. We _do_ know the Falcon will play an important role and when SW7 hits the cinema StarWars is going to be so massively in our face everywhere, everyday, all the god damn time until we puke (of pure joy of course!) and then SW8 double that, Sw9 triple that ... <head explodes> So yeah, TLG can sell a 500USD Falcon next yeah. An AT-AT? Not so much, and definitely not Cavegod's, awesome as it is Nice that we'll get another Hoth base, but just step back for a second and think just how darn big it has to be to be in scale with an AT-AT Cheers, Ole

Yes, they're vacuumformed. I'm quite sure the machine have paid for itself by now and it does not replacing unless it breaks down. It's the actual molds that needs replacing

Pfft, the price have been 69DKR in Denmark (you know the country that actually produces the darn bricks) for ages .. that is : 11.31US$ ! But I guess that price is going up to 110DKR/18US$ then This is made of pure stupid. TLG have had some +40 years to pay of those molding machines Whiskey. Tango. Foxtrot

Worst. LEGO. geartrain. evar!

Let me put it this way, much better to gear your (PF) hopes way down (I'd recommend a 40/8 setup), then you won't get dissapointed, chaps

Does not matter where you place the resistor, no rule Most, but not all, LEDS are 10-20mA types. 10mA is fine, white LEDs are 3V Ohm's Law : R=V/A ... 9V/0.01A (<-=10mA) = 900 Ohm, standard 1k (1000 ohm) is just dandy In fact 1k will work with just about any LED that is not a low current type (typically 2mA) at any voltage between 6 and 12 volts, no matter what colour of the LED Cheers, Ole

Not lights, just prisms Yes, 9V FTW!

No luv for 853?

Very easy. If you start modding a creation that is not your own original idea it will allways be a MOD, never a MOC - even if you replace every single brick

Googling "MDP train" brings a lot of indian train/station links ... Makes sense since TLG don't put actual doors in City trains, the minifigs might just ride on the roof anyway Wait! Mayby it's this one : .. and finally, googling "LEGO MDP" brings up Mindstorms Development Program .. hmm Cheers, Ole