langko

True but most of the other colours are missing most of the fender pieces as well. Yes, thanks to the Ferrari, there are now 3 mudguard variants in red - but they are all curved versions. Neither black or red has a straight fender piece so for me one isn't more useful than the other in that regard. Also when I was talking about complete, I wasn't just talking about panels but other technic pieces too. Okay you win haha

Well I would still say black is the most "complete" colour, but for those that want something less dark I'd definitely agree with red being the best colour to build in. Lime is still missing above mentioned panel and also the curved 3x7 panel. They must not like using those dimensions in lime haha

100% agree. I remember when the Sian was released it was sold out by the time I got to work, I’m on my lunch break atm and the SP3 is still in stock. Whether LEGO had more available this time around or less people are interested who knows... Amazon also has really good sales down here, I get most of my sets from there.

Have you got a source for this? Judging by the photos of the book I presumed all 5000 copies were in English... and if they did come in another language I would’ve definitely thought Italian not German If it does come in both languages are there a certain percentage of the 5000 that are in English and the other percentage German? It would be interesting to know what the split would be. I have quite a lot of origami books that are both English/Japanese in the single book. But again judging from the photos it doesn’t appear they’ve done something like that here.

The headlight details are awesome, clever use of the helicopter blades too I think you’ve done a pretty good job considering the shape of the real car. I think all the wacky bits on the sides of the car between the wheels and under the doors are really well done. Respect for choosing such a difficult car to replicate, I don’t think many people would be willing to give it a go - me included. Have you got a photo of the rear of the car? Didn’t see one on your website and would be interested in seeing the taillights/diffuser etc...

True, whether or not that adds $90 or not though. More than likely the answer is a mix of everything mentioned so far: inflation, shipping costs and plain bad luck haha. Anyway, enough of me complaining about the price. I look forward to seeing what type of mods people come up with for this model, this has plenty of potential in that regard.

As a MOC designer that has a complete monochromatic building style, I believe it is necessary if you want the most realistic and eye pleasing model possible. But I 100% agree that it would be major hinderence for instruction clarity and for other people to build. I support some colour coding but I do believe it’s starting to get over the top. Given the amount of people that stuff up the diffs on AWD models I sometimes wonder how much it actually helps... If the builder is not paying attention they’ll stuff it up anyway. But at the end of the day all the colour coding means nothing if LEGO stuff up the instructions

Cheers for pointing that out, I thought that was too good to be true! Even still, using the CAD example you’d have to pay $600CAD to = the AUD amount... I’m admittedly ignorant to how the sales tax works but surely it’s not 20%? Well going by this: https://jaysbrickblog.com/news/lego-technic-42115-lamborghini-sian-fkp-37-is-legos-next-drool-inducing-supercar/ We definitely won’t getting ripped off comparatively, I’d almost say we were getting the better end of the deal haha. But it doesn’t make sense when the Sian and SP3 are both 350 pounds but like I mentioned earlier the the SP3 is $90 extra here. Haha yeah you unfortunately seem to always get the bad end of the deal too. Amazon have LEGO at up to 30% off or even more at times over here, I tend to buy stuff at that point. There’s lots of colour vomit everywhere in this model... I’d say it looks to be the worst we’ve got so far.

Maybe inflation has a bit to do with it... But if I take the regional pricing for the SP3 and do quick google convert to current AUD $400 usd = $562 aud $350 pounds = $616 aud $400 euro = $602 aud $500 cad = $548 aud Then Australia store = $660 The prices are all over the price and it would appear we are getting ripped off down here...

It’s up on the Australian website now as ‘coming soon’. $660!! Compared to the Sian at $570. I’m sorry but I really don’t see how this is worth the extra $90...

Just watched racing bricks video. The errors he pointed out with the incorrect gearbox sequence and the missing panels at the end are crazy I really hope its not like that... Stacks of awesome looking parts but I personally think this is the ugliest car out of the 4... And functions wise it looks no better than the Sian. Looks like lever doors again (that can only be operated when the rear is open?) that's a major annoyance if that's the case. I liked how the levers for the Sian were discreetly hidden in the bodywork. The entire drivetrain looks very copy/paste from the Sian as well as racing brick pointed out in his video. In real life are the tyres really bigger on the SP3 than the Sian/Chiron? At least they will fill out the larger wheel arches better... but you are right, they won't fit on any of my current MOCs. I love this quote! "but the majority of the bodywork is seamless and showcases just what is possible without needing to create a lot of specialised parts" This has the most specialised parts of any Lego car yet...

Thanks! Lot of brick-link orders and 1x42127 Batmobile set to get the pieces. Thank you for the comment, and for understanding with the instructions. I like your attitude, the only reason my MOCs exist is because there were no instructions to make anything like them. Making your own stuff will always be more rewarding in my opinion. (and don't worry I frequently can't type for sht as well... my building skills is much higher than my spelling skills haha) Glad you like the suspension upgrade! It seems so obvious that I don't know why I didn't do it earlier, but I don't use those ellipse parts much so I just forgot they existed. They disengage when the clamshells are open, it was one of the main features I wanted to have. I found it a bit odd looking at other versions of this car where the flaps stayed closed when the clamshells are open... Wow sounds like a lot of people will be attempting this car soon! I look forward to seeing other peoples renditions of it. I also look forward to seeing more progress with your Ford GT Thanks very much! I tried to execute all the details as authentically as possible to do the car justice, the real car is defiantly a work of art. I'm sure one of them (or both) will have instructions, so that hopefully makes up for me not having any Maybe T-legos version will eventually be available through cada too... Have you ever though of making your own MOC of something? You must be one of the most experienced builders with Lego cars, so I'm sure you've experienced lots of different building tricks. Plus your part collection would surely make it possible.

Have added a video: In the spirit of constant improvement I also changed the rear suspension slightly... Removed the 2 yellow 3x5 liftarms and replaced them with 4 yellow 3x5 thin ellipses. I think it improves the look. There is always something to tinker with, but for the most part its time to move on to other projects. Also: glow in the dark headlights

Pretty cool B-model! Well done with the doors, the geometry is not easy for that - especially with the limited parts.

I just store all my panels in zip lock bags (sorted by panel type - all different colours of the same panel are in the same bag - left and rights have there own bag), then they just all sit in a Sian box that I kept. The zip lock bags in the skinny middle section contain rigid hoses/soft axles. Its cheap, simple enough for me to find what I want, and I can just throw the whole box in a cupboard when not building.

Haha well if you do it properly it should have steps etc... but that's a heck of a lot of work. Thankfully I don't recover my parts so I don't record anything I do For me its much more fun getting away from the computer... I spend most of my working week on one for my job. Cheers! The yellow is definitely something you don't see much... At my designing rate I might have another one by the end of 2023

Interesting how they've done the windscreen with the flex axles! It's not very accurate compared to the real A-pillars, but it shapes the windscreen quite well and stops it looking flat. I like it and think this is a good example of deferring from reality to better suit the pieces. Blue seats too from what I can see! Looks like there is still 4 wheel arch pieces as well which is good for people who make b-models.

Here are some extra photos with the Senna! I don't know what build is coming next... but its definitely going to be in lime given all the pieces I have after failing the Huayra in that colour. Higher Resolution Photos Thank you for your encouragement! It is one of my favourite cars too. I don't plan on making instructions... and a studio file would be way to difficult for anyone to build from. There is so much stuff that has to be assembled in a very particular order or it doesn't work.

Thanks everyone for the nice comments and positive feedback. It always encourages me to make my MOCs better and better. Thanks @Milan for the front page, its an honour! Apologies for leaving some questions hanging for so long,I ended up getting covid... Thanks very much! I definitely know what you mean with the black It is beneficial because little gaps just seem to disappear, combined with black pins it also creates the most seamless look you can. Yes some of the details disappear but more so in photos and less in real life. There are fence pieces in the front grill, and purple brakes to match the exhausts. Both are 2 features which disappear in the photos but are easy to see when looking at the real model. I look forward to seeing what ever you come up with! This is headache car to design for sure! Do you plan on doing a regular one or a more specialised one like this?The answer to the centre tunnel magic trick is quite simple: Only 2 functions run through the tunnel and not 3 The shifter is in the top of the tunnel, then another axle runs underneath it from the gearbox to the fans. It's no harder than designing an AWD car except instead of routing to the front wheels you are routing to the fans. The for the flaps... The steering rack has 3 gear racks in it (part 87761). 1 in the middle for all the steering/hog connections. Then 1 more in each bottom corner: these are then each connected to an axle routed down the sides of the car. Its way easier having 2 seperate axles down the sides than 1 in the middle, it means you can simply go on the outsides of the gearbox, fans, steering gears, adjustable suspension etc... instead of trying to go through the middle of it all down the whole length of the car. In terms of getting the flaps to work the rear ones turned out to be way easier despite them being on the furthest end of the car. There's just way more room there than front, especially when I was putting the fans in the front as well. I spent a lot of effort there! It was incredibly difficult given the location. I think they turned out pretty well. Can you imagine if LEGO made one? Thanks for the comment! I indeed took the "easier" route here, I wanted something that was efficient and also simple to use. It raises an interesting discussion point though. Given that most supercars have a seperate D/N/R how useful is Anto's gearbox idea to have it all in one? On such cars where there are seperate shifter or buttons/levers for operating D/N/R is Anto's idea "too simple"? It creates interesting choices regarding efficiency vs accuracy etc.. How about hybrids cars nowadays that don't have a reverse gear in the gearbox, because they use the electric motors to reverse the car. Would it be justifiable to leave the reverse gear out of the gearbox in a MOC of such car? I'd be interested to know your thoughts Thank you It's honestly quite easy! the only thing you have to be careful off is the steering on the front. But that issue is less to do with arches and more so how you design the bodywork underneath them. I've seen quite a few 1:8 MOCs use the red ones already. Lorenzo made a modified AMG BLACK with the black arches with looks insane! https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-98023/Lorenzo92/mercedes-amg-gt-r-black-series-modification-of-jamesjts-moc/#details and James had even used the smaller white arches in this awesome Ford GT quite a while ago https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-33807/GeyserBricks/ford-gt40-mk-i-1967/#photos It definitely gives more colour options! Thanks for the comment! Red would become close to possible with the new SP3. There are some flipflop beams in the front clamshell which are irreplaceable and currently don't come in any other colour other the black/LBG... Plus I'd have to redesign a lot of the front/rear bodywork to get the look right. Thank you! Yes black can be boring but the advantage is you can pair pretty much any colour to it for details/accents. I would almost recommend black to any beginner MOC maker, it's the most forgiving colour to work with and the parts availability is great. The A-Pillars add some slight support to the the roof when the door are up, but you are right: they are most for looks. I try and design all my MOC's to be strong enough without the roof: after all the way the doors are on this car and the Senna, I don't really have much other choice. All the strengths of both models come from the tunnel and sides of the tub. The 9L rods are may favourite for the windscreens, they are nice and thin so things don't look to thick when you include the a-pillar from the door, so far I've used them on all my MOC's. Hardest thing with a roadster would be making a nice looking windscreen, I find a lot of convertible models they can look too flimsy... but with this car I think the change to normal doors would be quite boring haha. See the response to T-lego above for the tunnel problem, this car is full of tricks. I might keep some of them a secret for now and I respect you for understanding As for earning money I really don't care. I've already turned down enough offers to work for multiple companies that would've funded this hobby for my whole life. I do this hobby for other reasons, and I knock back all those companies for reasons that are more important to me than money. Even so, I appreciate your advice with photos. These were taken with a phone believe it or not, and a I don't think I can do much better given what I have. I don't see the point investing lots of money in a camera that I might use once a year to take photos of a MOC, and trying to set up a light box inside is just too much space. Especially when I want to take photos of 2 or 3 off my MOCs together, inside just does't work. I might try and find some lighter gray concrete for the video, but that's not very common in my area...

It definitely looks like the most gapless super car LEGO has released so far. All the new red pieces will no doubt be welcomed by a lot of people. I like the new rims/tyres. I prefer this way of getting a thinner tyre profile compared to the current method of overlapping the rim over the tyre. It looks more flush and smooth. I hope they’ve made a mirror version of the rims for the other side of the car, if they’ve only got them as one directional it will look funny. Despite me not really liking the car in real life I think they’ve done a pretty good job of making the rear. I definitely think it’s more accurate looking than the rear of the Sian. The door shape looks pretty good too. Looks wise the front view with the windscreen shape will make or break the model for me. It’s hard to see if they have a proper windscreen (looking on my phone). In one way I hate that as it would deviate from the look of all the other cars, but on the other side I think it could make the model look a lot better... the windscreen has a very particular shape and it could look weird with just the frame. Side mirrors are terrible but really don’t expect anything else and it’s an easy thing to fix. I also don’t see any obvious blue pins? Maybe it’s just the lighting in the photo but fingers crossed. Ferrari are probably the most artistic brand they’ve dealt with so hopefully they said the blue pins won’t good enough (one can only hope). Anyway, look forward to seeing more photos and more details of the internals/functions.

EDIT: 2/4/23. The instructions are now available for the revised and further improved version! The model is buildable in black and now red (thanks to the SP3) Many thanks to @astyanax for making the instructions and for all your contributions to improving the model! I know a lot of people have been asking for them so I'm happy that this is now a reality. They can be found here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-142670/astyanax/pagani-huayra-bc/#details Photo gallery here: https://bricksafe.com/pages/langko/pagani-huayra-v2 Original post below. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So after 18 months of building I'm happy to present my latest MOC. I already hinted at building this car back in my Senna thread... and I somehow managed to pull it off. For me this the dream car for technic building, there are so many features you can add plus the fully open mode looks awesome in Lego. There are sooo many special versions of this car in real life, I've taken inspiration from a lot of them to come up with my own unique 'special edition'. The amount of variation when looking at the real life cars is crazy, different types of rear wings, some have roof scoops, some have dorsal fins, the front grill area can look different depending on the car you are looking at, plus all sorts of different aero aiding stuff. This allowed a certain amount of creativity and artistic freedom, whilst also offering a technical challenge with the active aero and opening everything. Whilst nothing is perfect when working with this medium, and the same is true here, I'm pretty happy with what I've come up with. It would probably be my favourite model in my collection so far. Features: N-R-7 speed gearbox, limiters between 7-N. (Inspired by Anto's wonderful gearbox: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-50877/Anto/ultra-compact-8nr-speed-sequential-gerbox/#details) Stick shift in the middle console. (Similar to Didumos shifter that is common in a lot of models now, Charbel's 720s, T-Lego's Centenario etc.. https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-8105/Didumos/awd-gearbox-w-v8/#details) Rear wheel drive with differential. Gearbox/drivetrain is connected to a fake v12 engine (full size pistons/trans clear engine blocks). Ackerman steering connected to the steering wheel + removable HOG on the dash. Working aero flaps front + back, connected to the steering. Turn left the left flaps open, turn right the right flaps open. Independent cantilevered suspension on all wheels. Adjustable suspension (nose lift) on the front axle. Controlled by removable HOG on the dash (you can use the same one as the steering HOG). Seats are adjustable forward/backward. Each seat has there own control knob on the respective side of the monocoque. Working fans in the front. Connected to the rear wheels so they spin as the car is pushed along. 4 luggage compartments. 2 large bags + 2 small bags. In the rear there is an openable compartment either side of the engine, which holds the large bags. The 2 smaller bags are stored behind each headrest. They can be accessed when you adjust the seats forwards. (This hopefully makes up for the lack of luggage compartments in the Senna) Openable gull wing doors. They are held in place by a soft spring so gravity doesn’t slam them shut. Openable clamshells front and rear. The aero flaps open with the clam shells. Detailed interior + engine bay. Glow in the dark headlights (can easily be switched to trans-clear if desired). Black and gold colour scheme (as of writing black is the only possible build colour). No visible blue pins, achieved mostly through clever building techniques but some black ones are used where absolutely necessary. When I had started this model it was originally in lime... I was using this as a reference: It was working well until a got to the front of the model but then the front was just impossible. The lime wheel arches are too big and I couldn't come up with anything remotely decent looking. I thought about changing the car to red but red is also missing a few colours that are available in lime so that wouldn't work either. I thought about just putting the model to the side and hope that new red pieces came with the upcoming SP3... But then the Batmoble came out with the black smaller arches, followed by the McLaren F1 with the black tapered panels and I new immediately black would work. I've always liked the idea of making a black car and I think it works really well for this car/brand. You could potentially replace the gold wheels/gold details with the Bugatti wheels and some dark blue/silver accents. That could look quite good too I think. If you've read this far, thank you! More photos on brick safe: https://bricksafe.com/pages/langko/pagani-huayra I plan on making a video to showcase all the features, but the weather is terrible at the moment. It seems like the only time its not wet is either when its dark or I'm at work. I had a decent run home with traffic today and managed a 10 minute window to take photos outside before it got too dark. Maybe I'll get something done in the next month or so, I don't want to rush it. I'll hopefully get some photos with the Senna too. But for now, I hope you'll enjoy the photos! ----------------- EDIT: video complete:

@LvdH thanks for the reply! If I was to build, I would definitely go the all LEGO route in dark azure too. The car is very well suited to technic with all the sharp lines/angles.

Yup that’s definitely silly, one would think that motors would be a bit more fool proof to help work with future models... @LvdH speaking of Apollo and me noticing your new profile picture, what are your thoughts with the model? Worth getting? Fun build? Etc...?

Go back to page 2 for a link that will help with the paddle shifters. Mine works in a similar way to the model I posted. As for the doors the hinges are in the same places as the real car, and there is a linkage on the inside of the door that acts like a gas strut - keeping the doors in the open position.

You definitely have a skill and eye for detail when I comes to improving models, and this is no exception. The biggest improvement for me is actually adding a v12 engine. Despite my dislike for the micro engines it’s definitely better than the lousy v8 the original had. I wouldn’t say it’s the prettiest of cars but I appreciate the work that’s gone into it none the less. It’s weird seeing a car without the traditional doors, this car must be a nightmare to get in and out of.