langko

Well @astyanax managed to reverse build my 4500+ piece Huayra from some photos and a short YouTube video, so it is far from impossible. That said, someone else tried to do the exact same thing for mouldking and they screwed it all up. So you have to be an exceptional builder to be able to do it.

I only see #3. Doesn’t look like there’s a #4 on the other side. It’s different because of the kickstand

So after pushing this model at a wide variety of places (skate parks, mountain bike tracks, various hiking spots and even the beach) I finally dismantled the model to use the buwizz components for something else. The only bad thing after everything would be the rather exposed diffs (difficult to cover without compromising ground clearance) Blades of grass or the like would get tangled up there more than I would've liked, or a stick would some times jam it. Most of the times this would cause the buwizz unit to shut down and it's game over until you can plug it back into power. After pulling everything apart there is surprisingly very little damage to any of the parts. The only exception being the lower tow balls at the front hubs are quite worn (I'm guessing due to the tighter fit with the way the lower section is angled up a stud) Overall though this model was a great experience and I had a lot of fun/learnt a lot from it. Thanks again for sharing!

The seat details are incredible! (Maybe not so much the front leg room) But this is a great looking model! You’ve blended the system elements and the technic ones together very well.

Ah now I understand! In that case that can easily be fixed by using the newer knob gear with the “x” in the shifting mechanism instead of the standard “+” one? That new part has been a game changer for me.

I always appreciate it when someone takes the time to make a V2 to make things better! The new model is a step up for sure, great improvements around the front end especially. As for MOC pricing I think no less than EUR 20 is fair and average for these scale MOC's on rebrickable. I also respect how you made it so those that bought V1 get this version for free. Also regarding your post at the start regarding the shifter: One of the things a really like about that rotating paddle design is that it's super easy to change the output direction. Just build the steering column in mirror image so that the connecting the paddles to the small linear actuator is on the left instead of the right. No need for more gearing further down the line. I've done this on a current MOC that I'm trying to incorporate it into.

Great looking model! I do hope you get to make a video to show of more of the features, it looks very interesting. Great job blending the system pieces with the technic panels at the front, it flows really nicely. A+ part choice for the a-pillars as well!

I was actually thinking the other day that it would be nice to have that part in green for something I’d potentially like to make. So I’m glad to see it! I think it’s also interesting/annoying that in the case of the reddish orange version for the G-class, it’s so obvious that it should be reddish orange but isn’t. The P1 has 3-4 parts that should’ve been LBO but wasn’t. But looking at photos of that botanical set you hardly see the green pin connectors. Almost like when you could get away without recoloring it they do, and when you can’t they don’t…

From what I can gather, if you scale the blueprints of the 2 cars to have the same front wheel diameter as the tyre LEGO uses.... then the SP3 is approx 1 stud longer. But I still think the biggest problem with the front of the P1 is that the front wheels are way too big. From what I could find the real P1 has 315/30R20 tyres on the back and 245/35R19 at the front. Using a tyre website that roughly equals 698mm and 654mm diameters respectively. Lego's tyre is 87.9mm. Divide the rear 698 tyre by 87.9 and you get 7.94 scale. Pretty good! But divide the front 654 tyre by 87.9 and you get 7.44 scale. Pretty decent difference. If you divide the front 654 tyre by the OG 81.6mm tyre the earlier supercars use you get 8.01 scale. Almost perfect size compared to the rear! So when the front wheels should really be the size of the old ones of course the whole front is going to look too short, even if the bodywork is in proportion to the rest of the car. Here's the blueprints for your above question.

This is my viewpoint as well. As long as someones not reselling someone else's work then I don't care if its free or paid. If you personally want to offer your models for free then I respect that. If you put a price on it I respect that as well. Obviously I'll still make a decision whether its worth me buying (just like any regular LEGO set), but it doesn't change the fact that you can sell it for whatever price you think is fair (just like when LEGO price an official set). Just because I might not think its worth that price doesn't mean I'm entitled for you to give it to me for free. There are lots of paid models on rebrickable that are just digital models without any photos of the real life build... Instead of complaining I just don't buy it and move on. There are also paid MOCs I've bought where I have been disappointed in the end result. Did I expect better in some cases? Yes, but I'm still grateful they offered the chance to buy the instructions instead of not having them at all. In all those cases I have still learnt something from the building experience and have often used the models as a launching pad for my own modifications. So in the end, for me it was still worth buying those instructions, and I'm happy to support designers for the enormous amount of work it can take to create instructions for such models. So everything that is either a hobby or offers joy should then be free? What a ridiculous thought...

Finally picked this set up over the weekend. First experience with the newer gearbox parts was great, can tell the whole thing runs smoother than the BMW. Actually like this even more in real life than the photos. I like the stripped back bodywork and the fact you can see more of the internals through the 'gills' (DBG panels) on the sides. I quite enjoy building these bikes, lot of interesting angles with the construction etc... I changed all the red/yellow/blue parts out to black/grey and it looks super clean. Minimal stickers is always appreciated as well.

I just took the official images from LEGO and the MOC designer. They’re all from a side view so it’s still a decent comparison. That photo makes it looks better but I think it’s still noticeable that it’s too short on the LEGO one. I don’t have either model (and correct me if I’m wrong) but looking at photos from the underside both models have the same amount of studs from the middle of the front axle to the tip of the front splitter. But given the bigger scale due to the cartoonish wheels you mentioned the LEGO one should actually be longer. So as well as fixing the light position and the front curvature I also think you need to pull the front nose out by 1 or 2 studs as well.

Cool to see the comparison shots from you guys that own Bruno's one as well. Thanks for sharing! Does this look the same to you? And for the record I think you could still get nice wheel arches and a sturdy bonnet whilst respecting the proportions... It just didn't happen here.

I think a lot of B-models at this scale can suffer from the limited part selection, most of the time I think it’s obvious the designer had to make sacrifices in certain areas due to part availability. But this doesn’t give that vibe at all. Looks super clean and doesn’t look like you used a limited selection of parts at all. Even the interior looks quite nicely done. You somehow managed to keep the bodywork free of heaps of blue pins as well which is no easy feat and adds a lot to the look. If I had the SP3 I would definitely be giving this a build. After looking at the photos the only major improvement I would try to include is a way to keep the hood open. Did you try anything in that regard?

So I noticed there is a slider on the LEGO website where you can overlay the model over the real car, from both a side view and a top view... And it really highlights how bad the front is, looks like it was driven into a wall. @kbalage I agree with what you said in your review that the wheels appear too big, I think the original size would be better to design the car around. I mentioned this as well and it still annoys me after seeing some video reviews of the car... They could get away with it in the Bugatti because dark blue is really close to black. But with the orange it is too obvious. I like where you are heading with the exhaust details! Great part usage.

And they built it with the triangular panels on the hood the wrong way round… haven’t watched the video yet so don’t know if that was an intentional mod or not EDIT: watched the video and it’s definitely not intentional… 7:05 you can see it’s all asymmetrical and wrong. When you look at the underside at 10:05 there’s some rather interesting stuff going on with a lot of u-joints and a clutch piece as well…

I still wish LEGO would just fully commit to the color they are building in. I get it at the cheaper end but at this price point there shouldn’t be black/DBG connectors in places where it’s so obvious an orange one should be… The bag is back! But still looks like a lazy afterthought… Will buy this for all the exciting new parts and mechanical aspects. This will definitely feel like a new build compared to some of the recycled modules in the previous models in the series. I agree with some of the thoughts with the front though, and the rear looks a bit empty without any sort of vents/mesh in the rear section under the lights. But this one will be a fun one to modify. I skipped the SP3 but overall I’m looking forward and excited for this one. I can’t believe they finally ditched the little panels for the door mirrors as well! Only took 5 cars…

The more time you are willing to put into the model the higher your chances of success will be. You will undoubtedly have failures along the journey, but it’s about how willing you are to persevere and find a solution. I spent 18 months on my first 1:8 scale MOC… only to pull it all apart again afterwards and spend another year redesigning nearly all of it from scratch… Not saying it will take that long for you, but don’t be disappointed if the project takes longer than you expected. It’s worth it in the end. Good luck

Don’t stress, your English is more than good enough to convey the intended message. I enjoyed watching the video, it’s always cool to see more details about a model and learn more about the real car as well. Thanks for sharing and putting the presentation together!

I think for me it comes down to the personal satisfaction of putting it together, regardless of whether the model comes apart next month/next year/never. If you were the designer would you feel content with such a solution? As a builder does it actually feel satisfying to make? I guess I find it hard to accept such blatant disregard for geometry, especially when there are better solutions. Like doing what Lipko suggested, or you could use a 2l pin with a 3l bar to get a better result than that step.

Yes I would say it is a principle thing, and I also agree that the damage in this case will be minor - maybe just some slightly bent pins. But my question was being asked in a more broader sense. If the designer is fine with the methods in the door, and there are “no boundaries”, how far is one willing to push it? Or is there absolutely no limit to the potential damage caused to parts as long as you achieve the look you want?

This is my question as well, how much bending, twisting and damaging parts is ok? Surely there has to be a line somewhere? I believe that there are no limitations with what you can make out of LEGO, but there has to be some sort of boundaries on how you get there... I think it gets to a point where all these illegal connections actually detract from the appearance of the model because it just looks less polished and lazy. I guess I just find it hard to believe that with all the possible ways that LEGO fits together, that that is the best solution to get the shape you want

I love the black with the red accents! I really like the rear wing design with the new panels in there, as well as the detailed steering wheel. Cool to see Anto's new gearbox in a complete model as well. I will say though that whilst I appreciate your dedication to replicating the look of the model as accurately as possible, I can't say I'm a fan of some of the methods used to get there... I'm ok with bending the rules here and there, as I understand replicating such ridiculous angles doesn't always fall 100% in system. But techniques like what's used in the doors takes things too far for me, and is not that type of building that I think should be encouraged.

I hope not… without an entirely custom windscreen piece that would look terrible. I for one would prefer a P1, even if production ended a decade ago.

If it’s bringing back the ultra rare DBG #1&2 panels from the cancelled osprey then I don’t care how ugly it is.