Jim

Is SEMOC a generally accepted term for Someone Else's MOC?

Hi Axles, Please don't make a habbit of posting "news" while the entire topic is devoted to the new sets!

I'll see what I can do today

There are Racers and Racers If it's mostly technic you are fine discussing it here. The Ferrari 599 is technically (pun intended) also a racer! http://brickset.com/sets/8145-1 Can you post a list of sets you'd like to review?

I'll let it simmer here for a bit and move it to the Event forum after a couple of days. Hopefully you will succeed in your efforts!

Title fixed for this awesome Astromech!! I really love the working piston engines and other functionality, like the arm.

Hi Humdrum! Welcome to EB. The Technic Cargo Plane sure is awesome. Bit of an Aviation Nut too, and looking at some of the other models, I guess we share the same interest Will see you around in the Technic section Jim

That's an awesome rendition of the Tumbler! And your art skills are outstanding. Now I dare you to make the Bugler with LEGO Some partial disassembled pictures will probably suffice to build this little bad boy

That's a nice set! Pretty much resembles what I have. Indeed sufficient for what we are doing

I have learned that the rule of thumb for the sweet spot is 2.5 to 3 stops from maximum aperture. For the Nikkor (which is 4.8 according to previous posts) the sweetspot will indeed be around f16. However for a 2.8 this will be between 5.6 or 8. Edit: after searching Google, I have found different facts. Some say one or two stops (instead of 2.5 to 3) from max aperture, while others say it's between f8 and f11. Guess there isn't a common rule of thumb @Blakbird Some lenses are more prone to gather dust than others. I have read a lot about great lenses, with common complaints of gathering a lot of dust. Here's a nice article about dust in breathing lenses: http://photographylife.com/what-to-do-with-dust-inside-lens Just to make sure we are on the same page; your picture looks great! The quality is way better than pictures I usually see of LEGO models! This is just nitpicking over tiny details! I'm away this weekend, but next week I will take some pictures with my Canon 50mm 1.8 and Sigma 20-70mm 2.8 to compare both lenses. I will also compare the pictures with and without post-processing. I am curious whether we can point out the differences. Post-processing does enhance the overall quality (clarity, colors, etc) of the image. By the way; what lighting set did you end up buying?

Thanks for bringing this C-model to our attention I have changed the topic to reflect the fact it's a C-model, instead of a real review. Nice clear pictures by the way!

I didn't want to be the Negative Nancy (so thanks Lijntje hehe) but I noticed it as well. Although the overall quality is fine (and more than acceptable), we are now focussing on details. Looking at the full res image, you can see it's not 100% sharp. Blakbird, do you use manual focussing and do you zoom in on the LCD to finetune your focus? What lens are you using?

Now we're talking!! That looks so much better. Great to see your efforts were not in vain I see you have used a proper 3-point setup. The lighting works really well, since there are no hard shadows or very shiny surfaces!

Nice review! I somehow missed it, I guess?! This is an awesome model. One of my favorites! It looks cool, has great functionality, it's not a car or truck and it has a nice collection of white panels. I still want to pick up another copy....just because

Great review! Really looking forward to picking this set up. The new sleigh does indeed look better than the 40059! The reindeers too by the way. The building could have been a bit bigger, but the toy machine makes up for that! Fangy, the link to the video leads to Brickset. That's probably not correct. Keep up the great work

I will take some time tonight to check it all out

Our very own LEGO Collectable Minifigures expert WhiteFang is on a reviewing spree. After his recent outstanding review of the LEGO CMF Series 12 and , he has been helping Santa to build his new workshop.Ho-Ho-Ho! Hop on the sleigh and fly to the Eurobricks Town Forum to check it out.

Since you are the #1 Unimog fan on this website, I wouldn't sell it.

Merged the boom into this MOD topic.

Actually only the instructions. Not the programs. As far as I know, the programs aren't publicly available. I recommend buying the Education version anyway. It has great value for money, especially with the rechargeable battery.

Don't exactly which one you mean. I have a simple remote for my canon, without timer. What cam are you using? (maybe you've told me, but I can't recall) You probably mean something like this, yet cheaper: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Hahnel-Giga-Pro-Wireless-Nikon/dp/B003462ZV4

It's indeed a personal preference. While your picture looks fine, I prefer it to be sharp in every corner. Just like you would see it on the box. Your picture is sharp on the focus point (probably left front wheel). The right wheel is already a bit blurry and the back of the car is rather blurry overall. And did you apply some artificial vignetting? You are probably looking for a more artistic expression for the picture. Nothing wrong with that by the way, but it's also a personal preference. So I definitely like your picture, but I prefer tack sharp in every corner. Nice MOC btw

Stupid, stupid, stupid.....that's what I forgot to ask you. I have had the same problem (more or less) with my cam. There's a real difference between spot metering and evaluative metering (not sure how Nikon designates them). Spot metering uses the center spot to calculate exposure while evaluative uses the big picture. My box images where over exposed because the spot the camera used was black. When I shot images of the model (which had a lot of white), the pictures got very dark. Now I use the entire scene to calculate exposure. I forgot to think about this, sorry. Although it does make a lot more difference than I would have expected. Reading your post more carefully, I see you have switched the other way around. While this seems to work better, be mindful that there can be a significant difference between shooting white and black models. But now you are aware of the setting, you can play around with it. I will verify which setting I am using. You are right about the cheap product slogans, being deluxe and all. However, my lights where pretty cheap too, so I guess it's worth a shot. Especially since you can return them. Your last picture looks great btw I really recommend using a tripod. It doesn't take that long to setup. Most of the time you can set the cam to a fixed position, place your model on the table and start shooting pictures. When you use higher F-stop and you place the model more or less in the same position (distance from the cam), you don't need to change the camera position. So setup once, shoot many. Using a tripod will definitely improve your IQ (Image Quality). Today I will do some tests with F-stop values to see when the back of the crane will start to get blurry.

That might indeed be the case. The Amazon lights are obviously a lot better, but I think you can find a less expensive solution. Each of my light banks uses just a single lamp! A set like this probably will suffice too: http://www.amazon.com/Fancierstudio-Digital-Continuous-Softbox-Lighting/dp/B0050K3DW2/ref=pd_tcs_subst_p_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=16N5PCTSDQBME5C3Y0V1 Or this: http://www.amazon.com/Fancierstudio-Lighting-Hairlight-Softbox-9004SB2/dp/B0047FHOWG/ref=pd_tcs_subst_p_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=16N5PCTSDQBME5C3Y0V1

I've got a set much like this, without the green backdrop. The set cost around 130 euro, which is quite cheap. https://www.vidaxl.nl/p/160106/fotostudio-set-met-green-screen-3-daglichtlampen