Jim

I've got a set much like this, without the green backdrop. The set cost around 130 euro, which is quite cheap. https://www.vidaxl.nl/p/160106/fotostudio-set-met-green-screen-3-daglichtlampen

I will check tomorrow, but I think 35W each (105W for total set of three). Color temperature of 5600 Kelvin.

I'm not sure whether this is possible without intervention of a proxy (pc). The pc usually has drivers to talk to the controller. On the EV3 this might be complicated, if not impossible. Maybe it's possible with custom Linux firmware. I will try to find out whether it's possible or not.

Wow, this is very well executed. The cockpit with rollcage is fantastic. And so are the chair and engine. I like it...a lot!

You are right about the F22, although F10 can be too "open". Maybe go for F16, depending on the depth of the model. I will also try to use F16 and see how that works for me. Why use ISO 200 if you are using a tripod and Av mode? Prior to this my latest pictures I used three lights for a 3-point setup, but the distance to the model was too short, resulting in hard shadows and shiny surfaces. For the 42009 I used two lights and pointed them upwards, like shown in the picture. They are indeed bouncing light of the white ceiling which might be helpful. (didn't think of that by the way)

F-stop By the way; f/22 results in a very deep depth of field. Your model isn't very big (there's not much depth in it) and there's probably some distance between the model and the camera (the closer the camera to the model, the more you need to be aware of the depth of field), so you probably don't need F/22. You can play with the F setting. Try to go to F/11 and see whether everything in your picture is still sharp. When you place your camera very close the model and your model is the 42009 and you want the front and back to be sharp (like the picture below), the distance from the cam to the model is about the same as the distance from the front to the back of the model. You will need a higher F setting (F/16 +) for that. When you place your camera at 2 meters and the distance between the front and back of the model is 10cm (like in your picture), then you can do with a lower F setting (F/8 might suffice). To be on the safe side, I always use F22. But you can play around with the settings. Let me know if this is clear. Otherwise I will try to explain it better. So: Check your EV setting (should be 0) Let me know which Lens you are using Try to use a lower F setting like F/18 or even F/11.

I used to shoot Manual too, but using Av makes your life easier. There's no need in setting the shutter speed manually. It's a work in progress but this is the amount of light I use to shoot pictures: As you can see it's not very much. During the day there's more ambient light pooring in, so it's a bit lighter. Couple of things we need to check: EV Are your EV (Exposure Value) settings set to 0? Not to -1 or -2? Lens What lens are you using? Maybe your lens isn't suitable for f/22. I am using a fast f/1.8. What I find peculiar is that if your EV setting is set to 0 and you use A mode, your camera should calculate the proper shutter speed value. I have been shooting pictures without the two daylight lamps, only some ambient light, which resulted in 10 to 15 seconds of open shutter. But I did end up with fine pictures, because the camera is calulating the right amount of light needed.

You probably mean MORE than 2 seconds But that's irrelevant, because in Av (or A on Nikon) the camera determines the shutter speed based on the other variables. So you don't explicitly set a certain time. The camera does that for you, making sure that you get the right exposure. Will be back in half an hour with an elaborate answer.

I would have to look in the instructions (right?). According to Bricklink, it's the same part.

Since this is your primary argument "I want to buy one of them as a base for a supercar I want to build in the future", I agree with Jantjeuh! Although I would consider buying the 599. It looks great and it does have most of the red flex axles, which are needed to build some of the Supercar MOCs. http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemInv.asp?S=8145-1 The other parts, like suspension, are widely available.

Ahhh okay. Strange that I have never noticed this before I was triggered by another black part I used recently in a new model (I guess it was the Volvo). I am sure this part suddenly had a matt finish as well. I will try to look it up.

I'm with Balrog on this one. When good quality fugazi flex axles would be available, I wouldn't hesitate to use them. I also appreciate your opinion on this matter. But when building supercars, using flex axles is almost imperative Would be great if TLG re-released some of the black and white flex axles.

Hey big guy! This is absolutely one of the best super cars around (I tend to say that a lot lately). The modular bodywork is well executed and the looks of the car are spot on

It's the first time I noticed it, so I am not sure about your statement. But you could be completely right. Anyone near their Technic collection to take a look? The connecting engine rod has defintely changed! Looking at the picture above, even the mold has changed. http://www.bricklink...Item.asp?P=2852

When building the 42009 Crane I have come across some parts, which have a different structure than usual. They seem to have a matt look-and-feel to them. This is not the first time I noticed it. When building the Volvo I had the same experience with a certain part (not sure which part anymore). Here are two examples: (click for hi res) Old shiny version on the left, new matt version on the right The grey color is also noticably different in both versions. Old shiny version on the right, new matt version on the left Any idea what has changed in the process or material used? And why?

After Bricklinking the Millennium Falcon and buying the X-Wing I feel the urge of adding another iconic ship to my fleet. It's very well executed and having a Slave 1 is almost mandatory for any SW enthusiast. Let alone a UCS version

It could be because of the background tune. Probably prohibited to use it in Germany! Awesome review Fangy!! Loved every word of it. Your writing style is very entertaining Tell the misses she has done a great job on the video!!

Sweet! Seams like a nice deal. Looking forward to seeing the results I will post a picture of my current setup tomorrow.

I shoot with a Canon 70D and the 50mm prime (nifty fifty) and I am more than satisfied. Since the lens doesn't have zoom you need to move the cam, but the results are great. I also have a Sigma 17-50 2.8 but the 50mm is a tad sharper. And it's the cheapest lens you can get, so you can't go wrong

Looks like a useful piece of equipment I would try to work on the color scheme a bit. Maybe use grey for the axles and the link to the Unimog and red for the rest of the trailer. Or combine black and grey to match the Unimog. Seems like you are a big Unimog fan

Yup, different forum: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=99480

Wow! This turned out to be one heck of a MOC! I very much like the brick-built exterior!

True!

Clever. Didn't think of extrapolating the range Interpolating is actually a better term.

New information for 2015 sets have been posted, so I have unpinned this topic!