2GodBDGlory

Have you looked into the CADA and MouldKing boxes? (I think they're ok to talk about in this thread?) I'm almost certain they're also 2.4GHz, and are plug and play. The CADA one has the pros of being from a (more) reputable brand, and its "white-top" battery has fairly high current limits, though it (like all Chinese boxes) only has the standard 7.4V. The MouldKing one, on the other hand, has the awesome advantage of proportional control, and the possibility for either 4 or 6 ports depending on which box you buy. I've been very satisfied with my MouldKing 6.0 box so far, with four channels of proportional control via joysticks, and two channels of basic control from bumpers.

Thanks! Sorry, I'm not familiar with a resource like that.

So, what I'm hearing, is that I just need to get a big enough transmitter to boil off all the water, and then I'll have perfect reception and no need for a complex submarine? Sounds good!

Hmm, that's a cool machine! You're right, I imagine that could be done with Lego pretty simply! I think my personal goal is still to build an accurate, reliable, button-operated one, rather than something like that stylus mechanism, but it could be interesting for someone to try sometime!

Is that actual RC different than the 2.4 GHz system? If 2.4GHz is all one needs, it's probably simpler and not much more expensive to buy generic Lego-clone PF remotes and receivers from Aliexpress, because those, unlike the original IR Lego ones, use 2.4 GHz, making for much better range, not dependent on lines of sight.

The kickstand function looks reasonably useful (and potentially spring-loaded), though

Yeah, that's correct. I think without the rubber part it would virtually always go to the low gear, regardless of the weight of the model, which is unfortunate, because the wear is a big problem. I think you're correct that both would be required

If it helps you follow the working principle, I think that planetary gearbox has largely the same working principle as this one I made a while back, only mine was automatic, rather than using a servo for control. Mine didn't have the second lock, which I think is part of what made it automatic, but it was a similar idea: (I made a V2 version lower in the thread)

Quite cool! I love all those unique Russian Lego RC solutions!

Well, I suppose there's always the option of abandoning Lego-style controllers like that and just using hobby-style controllers, but that gives up a lot in easy compatibility, and might not be a whole lot cheaper to get into.

I'm still thinking it's the fact that you've only got one SBrick, but that's just from judging from what I've seen others do.

That's quite an interesting model, with such a high concentration of custom parts! I'd be interested in some more information on the planetary gearbox you've got in there!

Nice work! True transverse drivetrains are certainly interesting to model, especially given how common they are in real life, and how rare they are in Technic! I'd be curious to see some more details about the gearbox, since anything with 6-speeds tends to be quite challenging to make! (Lately I've usually built 4x2 8-speeds and just ignored a couple gears)

That makes a lot of sense, good point! Interesting thought; I'm having a hard time knowing what my thoughts on that would be, simply because I tend to work myself into a "calculator-design-brain-mode" when I build calculators, and then kind of let that all go in off times. My thought, though, is that it would be challenging to limit the shafts inside the calculator to amounts of rotation above one full turn, but it could be an interesting avenue to explore. EDIT: After consideration, limiting it that way actually looks really easy and helpful, and I'm working in a prototype now!

Thanks! I haven't thought too much about doing a binary system, though I do imagine it would be a lot easier. I guess I just made it an arbitrary goal to make it work in base-10! I was trying a new line of attack, in which numbers would be stored via linear motion rather than rotary motion, and made a fairly successful calculator that could add two single-digit numbers, but I guess I never got around to posting it anywhere. The linear concept has the advantages of minimal backlash and a greater possibility of incorporating multiplication and division, but it'll take more development to reach this level of functionality. Maybe I'll try to get that calculator up soon, but I'll have to see when/if I get enough time to give this new concept more of a try!

I suppose that's true, but I've never really gotten good at Stud.io, so none of my models have any files for them.

Nice job! Seeing those upside-down engine blocks has me intrigued with where else that could be useful! I've tried making some W-16 and VR6 engines in the past, and that could be a useful technique for that!

Is that from some hobby-style RC car? If so, I don't think you should be having any problem.

My latest progress has mainly been on the front section. The plan is to make it look vaguely like a classic semi truck cab, which is obviously anachronistic for a spaceship, but then so was a lot of the Space Police III lineup that I'm mainly inspired by, so I'm going to go with it. Anyways, I slapped a few plates on a little frame at the rear to rough out the "sleeper" area, with extra crew seating. I'm not sure I love using these System parts, but I'm running low on black panels after using them on the bottom of the container, so they might have to do. The lattice plates do have a nice connection to the window stickers on the Space Truck Getaway set, and I think some extra details should help make it look more complete back there. Most of my progress has been on the front, though. I added a "hood," that is split down the middle and coupled with gears so it can fold down, revealing a massive gun! There's also a little hole in the grille so that the gun can shoot before dramatically revealing itself, if necessary. This gun is mounted on a turntable, and while it doesn't have the greatest range of motion, it can be controlled for rotation and tilt with a two-way joystick. I'll be working on hooking up a control for the firing of the 6-shooter part, but I'm quite pleased with what I have so far, for the simple reason that rather than holding the DBG housing in place and rotating the yellow trigger, like every Lego set I know of, I've fixed the yellow trigger in place and driven the housing, so the shots will always come from a fixed place at the top, and the whole thing spins dramatically. It was a little tricky to figure this out, but I got it figured out. The housing is driven via a 28T turntable, and the center is fixed using a 3L axle with stud stuck into a 1L beam, with a 1x1 plate on the other end. This plate is stuck into the LBG part of the turntable, locking it in place on the square profile there, and then allowing me to lock that yellow part in place. Anyways, I'll be working on figuring out the cab and firing controls, and then potentially landing gear, locks to hold the container in, and generic detailing.

Yeah, it'll definitely take some mods to put into a steered axle, but the theory should all be down! Now that I look at this model, I see that you've got the mechanism integrated more nicely than in the mock-ups you had earlier, so you don't have those 8T gears anymore either. I was copying from this image that you shared in the other thread, so my modifications are relative to it:

I just built that lock, and I'm as impressed as ever! I did take the liberty of compacting the centrifugal mechanism a bit, and removing that 8T to 8T gear connection, though possibly at some cost of durability (I haven't had any failures yet, but my testing hasn't been too intense) Now there's a part of me that thinks I need to make some super-maneuverable, 4WS crawler to use this lock design... Perhaps after TC24 is done?

Wow, that's a lot of them in that picture! Would it be a good inference that those are 3D-printed cases housing motors of the style seen in the rear left of your picture, but with planetary gearing added? I 3D-printed a case for one of those motors once, but adding the gearing would be a super useful touch.

Very nice looking work! It doesn't just look accurate; its also got a great attitude to it! I'd be curious for some more details about the electronics. I'm decently familiar with the RCBrick and GeekServo, but what is this "Godzimotor"?

Nice to see that differential lock in a more developed model! I meant to try out that design, but kept forgetting. Seeing this model should be the push I need to get it built, though!

So, if I understand correctly, you're saying that trying to start the car results in either a slow, jerky start, or just stalling/power cutting? The gearing you have sounds fairly reasonable, unless your car is fairly heavy, in which case you might want to try gearing for more torque. Are you using only one SBrick, though? I've never used them, but most models I've seen use at least one SBrick per buggy motor, so that might be limiting your current output quite a bit. Well, I wouldn't say that motor needs 9V. That's what it originally ran on in official sets (until the batteries started to die), but I've ran them at 7.4V lots of times without trouble. Also, it sounds like a torque problem, and cutting voltage affects speed a lot more than torque, if I'm not mistaken. I wouldn't be surprised if it is a current supply issue, though, because those motors require pretty beefy electronics backing them up.