2GodBDGlory

The only Brickheadz from a licensed theme I can see that didn't have any other sets going along with it (except for one polybag minifigure) is this one here, from the Incredibles: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=41613-1#T=S&O={"iconly":0} I'm not sure if they would have made a category for it back in 2018, though, especially since it's only one set.

I got (most of) that set as a birthday present a few years back after my parents found it at a thrift store. It's a surprisingly solid Technic set!

Nice upgrade! If you want to get rid of the chain, isn't the spacing now perfect to just delete it and put a third 24T gear in between the other two? I would think that would be stronger if braced properly.

That differential lock is genius! I'm itching to try it out, but left my Lego at college for the holidays :( It reminds me of the automatic differential lock I made a while back: My design was similar to yours in that it would only engage the lock if the speed difference was actually as high as in a slip situation, but had way, way more complexity involved, and would work far worse in practice. Your design is very clever, though, and looks like the most practical true auto-locking differential I've seen in Lego. Nice work!

I've been following this thread for a few weeks now (despite spending most of my time in the Technic forum), and am quite interested in the revival (even if partial) of this great theme! Anyways, I just thought I would point out this promotion I saw on Lego.com today: I'm not sure how much, if anything, to read into this, but it's cool that they're doing this little promotion from the Tolkien world now!

That's very cool! Do I understand that you're using the tilt sensors built into the hub to read the joystick position? That's a great idea, cutting friction and not requiring an extra 4 motors to be used as position sensors as on older Mindstorms based designs! I too would love seeing some more detail. How many motors are used in the controller? Would it be one for each trigger and one for the mode dial?

Or just make up some custom adapter wires for old non-servo motors? Yeah, it would have been nice to retain, but given the splitter box in the lower right of that first picture, I think all the essential capacity will remain, even if it's a touch more annoying. Yeah, that's kind of what I figured. Trying to distance themselves more from Lego, I guess.

Thanks for giving us an answer on that one, @brunojj1! I think I'm glad that that isn't a CADA system, because it looks pretty awkward overall. That updated CADA system does look kind of annoying, though. What's gained (from a consumer standpoint) by using a new, proprietary plug? I'd much prefer continued compatibility with the Lego and generic stuff I already have. At least they have a solution for "stackable" plugs, though! This all-new system in development sounds worth waiting for, though!

Wow, that looks very interesting! The non-stackable plug is a big downside, though. Are we sure it's CADA? I don't see the name anywhere on there.

An easy solution to that is to find some small rubber bands and put them in the bead of the rim. I did that a lot on my Racing Small rims, though ones large enough for those other rims, yet small enough to fit in the bead, might be hard to find.

One thing that may or may not help is that it looks like you've got your CV joints going directly out of an axle extender, which (I think?) then goes into another extender, and isn't really braced anywhere in between. I'd try putting some kind of connector or beam right next to the CV joint with an axle going through it, to take out some of the wobble in the axle.

Yeah, that honestly sounds likely. We're assuming this is a successor to the RSR and 488, right? If so, it would make a lot of sense for it too to be in a race trim, which sounds rather disappointing to me.

Hehe... I've probably broken 100+ Lego 2L pins! I guess my regular use case is approaching torture testing then, which might be true, since I reuse them a lot and am not careful with 'em!

Good point! I've had annoyance with that trying to film PU MOCs before!

That's a great use for PyBricks and a physical remote! Operating the touchscreen in the winter would have been torturous...

Looks pretty nice! I really love the lime green color! Are you planning on keeping those wheels? I think something knobbier would look a lot better here. I see you have the old 2L transmission driving rings meshing with the new red 16T clutch gears, which won't actually work in real life (sadly), so to build it physically you'd have to swap them for the old dark grey design of clutch gear. Welcome to Eurobricks!

I wonder if there's a way to make some kind of smart adapter between the servo outputs from a Lego IR receiver and the standard servo control of the GeekServo. I'm imagining something based on some kind of microcontroller running a program that can recognize when the voltage changes and then control the standard-style servo based on that. I might give that a shot whenever I get around to figuring out how the Arduino I bought at a garage sale works.

That's a very interesting method of connecting the motors! You're basically directly controlling the rear wheels from the motors, and then using the rear differential as an adder to send their average power to the front, if I understand correctly. That torque-vectoring sounds neat! Looking forward to seeing a video!

Ah, thanks!

All the Chinese servos I know of (except for the aforementioned and discontinued MouldKing ones) have a basic internal track that only allows for the three positions, regardless of the controller.

Cool, thanks for posting those! However, I opened up a couple of them in Cura, and it's telling me that they aren't watertight. Then when I try slicing it and preview it, it makes a solid block, so you might want to look into why that is.

It does seem like a very cool motor! I don't have any, so I'm just going off what I've seen other people do. Yeah, you will need those things, but I don't think I can give you any more specifics personally!

Now that I think about my setup more, I begin to wonder if I've made it more complicated than I need to. It might make sense to delete the whole steering circuit as I have it, and replace it with a simple PF servo + MouldKing 6.0 battery with proportional control. I could even hook up a relay to control the drive through this module as well from an external 11V battery, at the expense of proportional control for the drive.

Oh, that's cool! So the receiver runs at 11V, but just low current. Yeah, I don't think the 11V is going to kill a servo; people do that with Buwizz all the time. Yeah, that's something to think about! The secondary pack isn't too big, but I can think about that. So far I just built one prototype buggy, and was just happy to get it all working! Though in testing it today a 3D-printed part that connects the Technic axle to the rotation sensor broke, so I'll have to reprint one (or several! It seems like an unavoidable weak point!)

Actually, I think that idea with the 28T differential gear has the potential to work. I used that basic idea in the rear propellor of my Canadair CL-84 MOC, though it was a non-planetary hub, and it worked well!