astyanax

When scaling down to 1:8 you have to exaggerate some things to make them visible, playable, and enjoyable. For example, to have realistic supercar suspension travel, one could just get rid of the shock absorbers altogether! If you push down on such a model, the natural flexibility of the plastic will render sufficient suspension travel already....

Almost seems redundant at this point, but here's another photo gallery: https://bricksafe.com/pages/astyanax/laferrari_t-lego (Some differences with the version from the 1st post are due to this build predating 2022-introduced models and panels...)

@T Lego's kids look great together too!

Stunning rendition of a beautiful machine! Very happy to have been able to build her already. Of course, me being insufferable me, I had to make a few modifications -- for better or for worse. In general, I tried to replace System bricks by Technic solutions. Mods include: front wheel arches modified using arched panels modified the big rear cover, especially the area around the taillights added brakelights reshaped headlights larger exhausts Also I made alternatives for and and because TLG's Daytona SP3 had not been revealed yet. Below is a video showing my version in more detail. Sorry for the photo-bomb at the beginning... it's the neighbor's cat and he doesn't listen to me...

and but with axle hole. Especially the former! A 2x2 liftarm with 4 pinholes. Like the holes on but without the teeth. Many diverse instances where I could've really really used that.

The relevant Rebrickable links: https://rebrickable.com/parts/73763/gear-worm-6m-with-axle-hole/ https://rebrickable.com/parts/73764/brick-special-2-x-2-x-1-23-with-worm-gear-hole/

Too bad they didn't manage to make 10197 in dark blue... (Under the headlight)

Well the description literally says: "Admire authentic features like the rear-wheel drive with differential, working V6 engine, independent suspension on all wheels, front steering, opening doors and opening hood."

I reckon this new brick will be very useful for us technic builders too! More details here.

(Moved) Regarding your question, you might want to look through this collection of instructions: https://www.yourwobb.com/pages/library

I love it!! Wonderful to see how it follows the curved metallic wire.

Also the Bionicle tooth can now be replaced by that new 3x2x1 panel from Bugatti Bolide (42151)?

Not sure if you'd even like the look if they did. Just look how murky 24116 turned out in trans-clear... https://rebrickable.com/parts/24116/technic-panel-curved-and-bent-6-x-3/47/

@shroomzofdoom I've got the same inexplicable and useless love for transparent liftarms... I'd totally see myself making a similar order

Here's a non-exhaustive list of modifications (I don't call them 'improvements' -- I don't feel that's up to me to judge). Body color: At first I built the black version, with sparse blue accents (including 4 new blue shock absorbers and blue brake calipers), which I think combine well with all the golden details. Then when new red panel fairings arrived (ordered from PaB, I don't actually have set 42143... ) I rebuilt the bodywork in red. The color conversion was very straightforward, really. Suspension: It was my intention from the onset to use the new shock absorbers. At the rear axle, I wanted their position and angle to be similar to the real car. I'm very happy with the result. It took a few iterations to perfect the geometry, such that the model doesn't sag under its immense weight (3.2kg). These shocks are incredibly strong and I had to really reinforce the structure around the shocks to prevent them from just tearing everything apart. The final setup is very responsive, as shown at the beginning of the video. Shifting: I fixed the gear sequence -- the driver pulls the stick to shift up, pushes to shift down. It's basically Anto's gearbox with 2 main differences: the 8th gear is blocked, and I've used spur gears only (thanks 81346). The whole gearbox runs unbelievably smooth. Chain: The output of the gearbox is connected to the V12 engine via a chain (bottom-right in photo above). This is just a nod to the other black supercar: set 8880. I've owned my 8880 since 1994 and she's proudly on display next to the Huayra. Ride height: The front axle also uses the new blue shock absorbers. Despite their considerable size, I managed to retain the ride height lift functionality. This is definitely the most difficult part to build, as it involves carefully aligning 2 worm gears so that the model does not lean permanently to one side. Exhaust: I've split it into 4 tubes, using metallic silver as much as possible, and a few parts in pearl light gray (I looove the shine on this old color!). I bought a purple 12L ribbed hose and cut it into 4 equal parts. Headlights: although @T Lego advised against this (he saw my WiP when he visited my alpine redoubt late October), I changed the headlights such that the Bionicle teeth are the lamps themselves. Both this solution and the original one have their pros and cons. Eventually I chose to keep the change, just because I wanted to do things my own way -- yes I'm that kinda person. At least they still glow in the dark! Also, I fixed an unsatisfyingly illegal connection here -- the headlights now stay firmly in place, legally. Taillights: I saw this photo of a black Huayra with golden taillight sockets, and I had to copy that! The black flex axles surrounding the taillights are now better positioned as well. Roof: Reduced the thickness of the cockpit ceiling from 2L to 1L (without compromising strength), which allowed the rearview mirror to be positioned higher as well. Looks cleaner IMO. B pillars: Reduced thickness from 2L to 1L (without compromising strength). Doors: although the usage of a trans-black flag as roof windows was a nice idea, the flags were sticking out. I experimented with 2 alternatives: on the black model there's an old (an surprisingly hard to source) window (2493 & 2494), and on the red model there are modern 5x2x1 trans-black bricks (46212). I can't choose which I prefer. Clamshell limiters: I replaced the hinges by pairs of 87617 & 87618. They have enough friction and look great IMO. I also considered using them for the doors but ran out of steam to make the necessary changes. Brake light: Moved it to the rear wing where it belongs. Slightly remodeled the wing while I was at it. Side skirts: These remain problematic... One cannot fix the front end of the 19L rotor blades, so grabbing the model by the side skirt always runs the risk of bending those rotor blades. I tripled the amount of clips to keep the rotor blades in place, which helps a bit. Golden fans: When I found out the fans in the front of the model exist in pearl gold, I had to get those... But they turned out to be extremely rare. Managed to hunt down a pair anyway. Me happy. A/C: I happened to have 4 chrome harpoons in my inventory which I never used before. I figured they'd look great in the A/C fans in the cockpit! Handbrake: Incorporated a microphone with silver top as handbrake, which was made possible by using new part 79987 to hold the silver hose surrounding the shifter. Glove compartment: It opens. It's roomy. Nuff said. Console: I used one 26L pearl gold hose to frame the central console, and one 18L silver hose to frame the shifter & handbrake. Bending the pearl gold hose before attaching it is a bit tricky, but after some proper fiddling, it does stay firmly in place. Pedals: I'm very happy with the pedals, using only 6 parts, but they look just right. For the accelerator I took a taillight from set 76911 (Aston Martin DB5) and carefully scrubbed off the print using nailpolish remover. I kept the silver oval print around the edge though. Seatbelt: Small detail: I filled up the seatbelt connection point in the seats. Hazard warning: In the central console, I changed the upper row of toggles to part 20482 in trans-clear, and put a red round plate behind the middle one, which is the switch to activate the hazard warning signal -- in the real car it has a red light behind it. Front raise button: A very small but to me very significant detail. In the real car, there's a button left of the main gauges for raising the front suspension (to overcome a speed bump, say). Since this function also exists in this model, I searched for a way to represent the button somehow. I found the print on this part to be perfectly suited! The stripes are hidden and the circle remains to represent the button -- plus it comes in flat silver like the gauge underneath it. Furthermore I tweaked the structure of the instrument panel and how it holds the steering wheel at an angle. Baggage: I made the bags hollow and filled them with goodies -- see video. Front grille: The outer fence parts are angled and separated from the inner fence parts by a Bionicle tooth. Looks more accurate IMO. Cage: I remodeled the cage over the engine and extended it over the rear suspension. Using lots of pearl light gray parts here, I love those. Overall I improved illegal connections where I found them. I think the only remaining 'bendy' connection is the large tapered red panels in the frunk, colliding a bit with the black #13/14 panels underneath. But these tapered panels are large and flexible; I don't expect permanent damage. If you've made it this far and still want to see more, here's a photo gallery: https://bricksafe.com/pages/astyanax/pagani-huayra

Yours might indeed be closer to 4000. Since there was no good shot of the chassis, I made my own, and I wanted to make it stiff and strong, but perhaps due to inexperience I might have over-engineered it. The chassis is form-locked itself, and other modules are form-locked into the chassis, even the roof. As shown at the end of the video, one can easily lift the model by the rear of the roof. Of course. This should be evident from the belly-shot in the video as well. I may attempt to list my mods here later (as far as I know them -- I don't even have the ground truth). There are some funny details that even @langko might not spot otherwise...

Correct. I drizzled your already-beautiful model with my modding sauce. Let me drop this here so as not to hijack @Jeroen Ottens's thread. Of course the YT description links to your video as well as this thread. Credit where credit is due.

Have you considered using the 'friction cylinder and ram' (parts 87617 & 87618)? Two pairs of them hold up the 500-part rear clamshell of langko's Huayra just fine. Even though it's hanging at 60 degrees. And they look great IMO:

just 4 forward gears actually -- see picture you just included yourself, top-right corner

Still have my childhood 8880 proudly on display, no need to re-engineer it, but I'm following this thread with great interest nonetheless! But the 8466 I missed. I've actually been working on re-doing 8466 with modern lime-green panels and Claas tires and odd-width chassis -- but keeping styling and functions the same. It's sort of a back-burner project for me. We'll see

Seriously impressive!

Why not use normal 7L liftarms and normal black pins, then connect everything with 4L bars through the black pins...

You had me at 'overengineered'

That's a nice vid, but the solution with the T-shaped liftarm is slightly off. The T-shaped liftarm creates an angle of 106.26 degrees, not a regular pentagon's 108 degrees. Also, it pains me to see all those cracked, rare & expensive red toggle joints!