astyanax

Many subtleties remain though... For example: Do you account for mold differences in functionally equivalent parts? Do you account for exchangeable colors (e.g., LBG and DBG liftarms used on the inside of a model)?

pics or it didn't happen

Are those 2L pin connectors (JH3021) chromed? And if they sell those, why not also chromed elbow pieces? That would allow some cool tubing!

I don't know the answer to this, but surely the Porsche must've been less 'crowded'. Funny how its part count (2704) seems 'low' by now...!

Going through my 'weird Technic-ish parts' bin today, I found a similar existing part. It has anti-studs instead of studs, but still... https://rebrickable.com/parts/15406/

You mean other than inside the set box? Try BrickLink or BrickOwl...

Sorry to hear that guys! My PaB order with March wave parts has just been confirmed.

The 3x19 frame is available, and so are the 12 and 20 tooth spur gears. And new panels from the McLaren. Perhaps mileage varies per country...

Technic parts from the March 2022 wave appear to be available on PaB.

Does there need to be a point? I love seeing silly/crazy stuff like this. Just because!

Your first design is interesting and I think I needed something like that a few times. But what I need very often is the quoted part with 2 pinholes. Or from another perspective, that's without the protruding bottom. Equally great would be again without the protruding bottom. Just a stud mountable on a pin or axle! Edit: for reference: there was a discussion about the contest in the General Part Discussion thread:

For the next update: step 690: the leftmost (blue) pin should be one hole further left.

I love it, thanks for sharing!

@Toastie Thanks for that rant on patents, I enjoyed it!

@thekoRngear somewhere deep down in this thread is another idea by @amorti (iirc) to secure the hood itself using 3L axles with stud. There's a photo of how to do it. I also used this trick in my version on Rebrickable.

Are you saying the new Technic slogan is hollow?!?!

Yessssss Thanks for figuring this out!!

Over the last 3 years, I've bought 'only' 7 sets for myself, but big ones, with 2000-6000 pieces each. (I'm disregarding here smaller sets for the kids.) I track on Rebrickable my lost parts and extra-extra parts. Most common extra part of which I get less is 6141 (1x1 plate round). Examples of extra-extra parts: with 42082 Rough Terrain Crane I got 2 extra 'Barraki' eyes, with 10274 Ecto-1 I got extra roller skate, with 76139 Batmobile I got extra 2x2 corner plate (2420). I also got a good bunch of extra-extra half-bushes, 1L bushes, 1L beams, half-pins, 3/4-pins, and black pins. Apparently: YMMV

Even so, one of the main reasons for including spares is the uncertainty in the brick picking machines. So it would be natural to expect 1 more or less of a small part in your set, every now and then. To wit: Source: https://www.newelementary.com/2020/09/missing-faulty-lego-consumer-perceived-quality.html

There's no ground truth here, unfortunately. Number of spares can vary per set. In my personal experience, in about 50% of my sets I get different amounts of spares than listed on Rebrickable (e.g., 1 more of this small part, 1 less of that small part).

Well, it's not the driving ring itself, but the resulting repositioning of parts. You need a way to prevent the orange wave selector of the R-N-Lo-Hi gearbox from rotating spontaneously. From the video I infer that you've added a #2 connector in front of the wave selector in question, held at straight angles using some unseen part pulled against it with the white rubber band that can be seen underneath. But the issue is (again, inferred) that the #2 connector will catch the teeth of the blue clutch gear underneath it. The should happen for instance when switching between 4th and 5th gear. At first I thought this might be problematic too, but now I think Bionicle Eyes are fine for 2 reasons: The friction goes away if you try a few different knob gears and eyes -- some combinations don't give extra friction. The finger-operated sequential shifter (I know it from the Centenario) is so strong it easily overcomes the friction. Perhaps one should be more friction-minded when RC-ing this gearbox (if that even makes sense).

Thanks for clearing that up! I really wasn't on a quest to point out flaws; on the contrary, I had recently been studying Anto's gearbox and thought it was a neat exercise to follow along and really get what was going on in your video -- but alas this raised the question above. If I may further test my understanding... I see you slightly modified the gearbox, getting rid of part 35186 ("Technic Driving Ring Extension 8 Tooth"). However, in doing so you may have introduced a (minor) issue. Can you try for me switching between 4th and 5th gear while rolling the model? Does the gearbox grind or jam?

At 3:27, when you show the shift sequence, we start in R and then go to N and then to 1 and up to 7 -- as per my understanding of Anto's gearbox. But evidently, this is done by pushing the shifter forward (assuming the front of the car is on the right in the video). Isn't that the wrong way around? From the driver's perspective, one should be pulling the shifter backward to shift up, no?

Ah yes, this beast! I've been 'coveting' it for a long time... but the main thing keeping me from going for it is the daunting prospect of buying 2300 rubber connectors (for the wheels)... In the creator's video the machine appears to operate rather smoothly -- do you think this will be very hard to replicate @Jundis?

By now I'm so sceptical I won't even get my hopes up when new elements appear on the PaB website. I'll only start believing when the package actually drops into my mailbox.