Andman

Hi Amit, welcome to Eurobricks! I can't help you with the door issues. But i would like to comment on the color issue. I'm collection Lego Technic for over two decades now. I have seen color variations for all sorts of colors: black, yellow, green etc. But it was never within one set. It's gotten worse the last two (three?) years. Don't except that. Premium prices deserve premium quality.

Like i said before. I admire your skill and this MOC of course!

Great work. I like it!

It's likely motorized. No idea yet how the rest is build.

But remember. Everything is still rumor and nothing officially confirmed.

I'm going to split it into three unit. Left middle/front axle, right middle/front axle and rear axle. front and middle are connected in a way that it simulates a bogie suspension. That means when one wheel goes up that other one goes down. That also means as long as one wheel is going up in the same way the other one is going down, the valve to the pneumatic cylinders should remain close. Only when the compression or decompression of the cylinders and therefor the change of the steering arms angle is uneven a servo should open the valve. Same applies for the rear axle. As long as the axis swings around the center, the valve should remain closed. So basically i need one angle sensor per "unit" and not for every wheel. This is exactly the reason why i can't use the internal sensors of the hub. It can't detect, if the values changed because of a steep or because of uneven ground. Or am i wrong? For calibration i can imagine something like: Open all valves to lower the height until the height of the vehicle or the angle of the steering arms does not change. Switch valves to the opposite direction, Run pump until the height of the vehicle or the angle of the steering arms does not change. Now i have min and max. In the app i would like to have buttons to change the height to fixed values or a slider to change the height like i want. Here is a picture with some ideas. The rotation could be read from the yellow axle connector

Thanks for the tip. I noticed that problem during a test of a truck today. Will test your solution. I have another issue or features (depends on the perspective :-) That truck has three axles, one in the back (live axle) and two steered in the front (independent suspension). All of them have pneumatic suspension. I would like to build not only an automatic height leveling system but it should also be variable. As possible inputs the height and the angle of the suspended axles are available. The height ranges from 1 to 5 studs ground clearance. The angle of the front axles steering arm can rotate 45 degrees. The mechanical solution would use movement to switch the pneumatic switch to adjust the hight. But that limits the height of a vehicle to just one. You can see an example here: While it maybe possible to build a mechanical heights adjustment system, which also makes it possible to adjust the desired height, I would like to solve that electronically. I already was able to read angles from a C+ L motor. The issue is that it is too bulky for that purpose and the resistance to rotate it has a negative effect on the suspension. The other option could be the distance sensor or the tilt sensor. But their "resolution" and responsiveness is not so good as far as I know. So has anybody any other idea? Or experience with the tilt and motion sensor? The mechanical issues with the L motor/rotation sensor aside: Can anybody say if it could be possible to program something like the above mentioned in the app powered up app?

The other 1500 pieces are 1x1 round tiles to push around :-D

@Rygar, you should delete the images since it is not officially published.

It must be!

I'm really looking forward to see it in real life. Nearly 90 studs long! Good luck! :-D

Although it's poorly written (no greeting, no question mark, wording lacks quality), it is clear what he/she is looking for. But I can't disagree with your first point. Your last sentence I would like to disagree. It maybe that he/she is a youngster. In that case I would like to give the opportunity to learn and to make it better next time.

Welcome to Eurobrick! Although we don't see each other, there is still a human being sitting on the other side reading your post. So, being polite in general and in this case with a simple "Hi" might increase your chances of getting an answer. But back to your questions: Unfortunately, I don't know of any instructions.

Yes, it's likely that they will replace it.

I had the same issues some month ago. It turned out that the pump had micro cracks around the bottom. That's why it couldn't build up pressure to the cylinders. To test that close the air outlet with a finger and push the rod into the pump. Keep it pushed in for a couple of seconds, 10 should be enough. If the pump is tight, the rod should move back to the initial position. If it doesn't move back at all or just a little bit, then your pump is not broken.

I had a discussion with a seller of tools, grease etc. I told him that I'm looking for a grease for my pneumatic cylinders. He recommended to use Molykote 55 o-ring, which is, according him, designed for moving parts in pneumatic systems, instead of Molykote 111. I tested it today. Before i had some no name silicon grease, which did not work well. The cylinder did not move smoothly at low pressures. That was solved by Molykote 55. The movement even with slowly increased pressure is very smooth. The issue is that this grease doesn't handle pressure applied to the rod very well. The air passes the rubber ring easily. The original grease withstands much more pressure. I'll order Molykote 111 soon and will post the results.

This gear in red does exactly what you want without sanding it. It's for example used in the 42009.

+1

Nice. I like it!

Welcome to this forum! 15 dark years?! What was the last Technic set you bought?

Personally I would not hard couple them. They have slightly but still different characteristics in terms of speed and torque. It will be hard to match the ratio (1:1.04) with gears. But what you can do is to couple them with differentials.

I create these by hand with Studio (big wall of 5x5 fields), Irfanview (modifying blueprints) and Gimp (creating overlay). Re-upload of front view (now more accurate)

Added second gear here.

The driving rings are positioned in such a way that there are idle positions.