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Wurger49

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by Wurger49

  1. Wow, didn't know to search the 360, some amazing designs on there! thank you.
  2. Nope, they are connected by clips and bars. Yes, the watchtower is a standalone model. Not really, because the Disney Castle is huge and very expensive, the open back showcases rooms with different disney princess stories, very cool.
  3. Some mistakes were found after I finished the last post, I have corrected them and retaken photos again. - 2x8 tan plate that connects the well are one stud off, moved it out so it sits below buttress. - The wall connector on the green cliff side is off by one stud towards the outside, leaving unsightly gaps when connecting all three sections of the castle. It was due to the wall was not offset from the towers like the other two walls, to keep in line with the yellow timbre keep. The ground floor wall is now moved in one stud, while the rest remained one stud out to go with the yellow keep walls. I removed the 1x2 dark tan plate beneath the battlement, keeping the same look as the same walls. - I had to rearrange the olive green and sand green slopes next to the grey wall. - I removed two 1x10 black plates on the first floor ceiling of the yellow keep, one 1x2 dark bluish grey plate off the chimney; they added an unnecessary one plate height to the building. I kept the two black plates under the roof. I added one 1x2 reddish brown plate and one 2x2 dark orange corner tile each to the two floors connecting the keep and great tower, reinforce the tower. - I added one 1x2 dark tan plate to the underside of the second floor rampart to reinforce the connection, where the 2x4 plate and 4x8 plate meets. With the remaining pieces, I rebuilt the Imperial watch tower to three floors. LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD, Version Three, Fixed Errors by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD, Version Three, Fixed Errors by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD, Version Three, Fixed Errors by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD, Version Three, Fixed Errors by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD, Version Three, Fixed Errors by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD, Version Three, Fixed Errors by R Y, on Flickr
  4. After seeing some great MOCs and MODs from other AFOLs on the 31120, I decided to improve my own MOD. I raised the battlements by two bricks in the first version, but they were still not tall enough. After debating with myself whether to take apart my Imperial Watchtower which I spent many hours building and changing using the spare pieces from the two sets, I finally talked myself into taking it apart. I wanted to raise the ramparts to the same height on the second level of the four towers. I started on the section next to the five-storey great tower. I built a second set of clip and bar to secure the wall connections, with machicolations on battlements. I tried different arrangements of 1x3 and 1x4 arches, but only the 1x3 arches allow for the even spacing with no overhang onto the next section, I wanted to keep the castle in three sections for ease of move and storage. I lengthened the rampart on top of the market stall by two studs for the alignment of machicolations. A second set of clip and bar was also added for the wall connections. The hinge mechanism on both sides of the gatehouse was removed to sturdy the connections for the two stud long ramparts, the four stud long rampart on the side of the tree was reduced to two stud long so the machicolations don’t overhang. LEGO left a stud width of dark bluish grey bricks with the green rocks, so the hinged sections can open up; I removed the gap and moved the green pieces together. I added more branches, leaves and flowers to the tree. The windowed wall of the yellow keep was removed and replaced with an archway. After these changes, height of the ramparts look in proportion to the height of the four corner towers. 31120 MOD Version Three by R Y, on Flickr 31120 MOD Version Three by R Y, on Flickr 31120 MOD Version Three by R Y, on Flickr 31120 MOD Version Three by R Y, on Flickr 31120 MOD Version Three by R Y, on Flickr 31120 MOD Version Three by R Y, on Flickr 31120 MOD Version Three by R Y, on Flickr 31120 MOD Version Three by R Y, on Flickr 31120 MOD Version Three by R Y, on Flickr 31120 MOD Version Three by R Y, on Flickr
  5. I really enjoyed reading your technical review @jtooker
  6. Did you get to finish your MOD with the 2nd set?
  7. You can get nice Gondor minifigures from AliExpress, since LEGO didn’t and won’t produce any, they are a good choice. https://customizeminifiguresintelligence.wordpress.com/2018/12/11/quick-review-of-koruit-lotr-gondor-knight-minifigures/
  8. Haha, bricklink is so powerful with wanted lists, it opens up so many opportunities after you figure out how to create Wanted Lists. In terms of the pieces you used for the MOD, how do you know what pieces are required for your MOD? it's always been my problem, hence I just buy 2 sets and go from there. There were no prefab pieces as it's a creator set, makes it easier to modify in a sense. Yes, the original ship is very stuby, so can add a mid section the balance it. Here is my attempt at modifying it, lengthened the forecastle and aftcastle, and raise the main mast with bigger sails.
  9. I stare at my creations quite a lot, a bit of self-indulgence really. It comes with the problem of realising things are not in the right place and needs to be changed. When I did cliff base, using the original LEGO corner with dark and olive green slopes, the rest the of the base are made with dark and light bluish gray bricks and slopes arranged with no regard to the tower as it wasn’t built yet. Now I have created base of the tower buttresses using light bluish gray bricks, ones on the cliff base don’t match up for the weight transfer. I had to rearrange the bricks and slopes, so the light bluish gray slopes line up beneath the buttresses on three corners, and left the green slopes as they were. I opened up the base so you can see I used some inverted and slope pieces to fill in the gaps on the face of the cliff. Imperial Watch Tower Version Four by R Y, on Flickr Imperial Watch Tower Version Four by R Y, on Flickr Imperial Watch Tower Version Four by R Y, on Flickr Imperial Watch Tower Version Four by R Y, on Flickr Imperial Watch Tower Version Four by R Y, on Flickr
  10. I stare at my creations quite a lot, a bit of self-indulgence really. It comes with the problem of realising things are not in the right place and needs to be changed. When I did cliff base, using the original LEGO corner with dark and olive green slopes, the rest the of the base are made with dark and light bluish gray bricks and slopes arranged with no regard to the tower as it wasn’t built yet. Now I have created base of the tower buttresses using light bluish gray bricks, ones on the cliff base don’t match up for the weight transfer. I had to rearrange the bricks and slopes, so the light bluish gray slopes line up beneath the buttresses on three corners, and left the green slopes as they were. I opened up the base so you can see I used some inverted and slope pieces to fill in the gaps on the face of the cliff. Imperial Watch Tower Version Four by R Y, on Flickr Imperial Watch Tower Version Four by R Y, on Flickr Imperial Watch Tower Version Four by R Y, on Flickr Imperial Watch Tower Version Four by R Y, on Flickr Imperial Watch Tower Version Four by R Y, on Flickr
  11. Great looking ship, much prefer the brick sails
  12. With time, I try to see if I can improve on my designs, as LEGO blocks do not need glue, a lot of building and dismantling before coming to a satisfying solution. I wanted to increase floor space of the ground floor by filling up the spaces between the buttress corners. I studied the instructions of the LEGO Model B, learning how its ground floor is enlarged. My main concern is still whether I have enough dark bluish gray bricks for the expansion. Each six stud wide tower wall requires a space of twenty four 1x1 dark bluish gray blocks in the middle; by expanding to an eight stud wide wall, thirty six 1x1 blocks are required, I don’t have enough. I designed an opening with one 1x4 arch and two 1x1 round bricks, that frees up eight bricks of space. I moved one light bluish gray 2x2 brick from the first floor to the ground floor, as I wanted no more than three 1x1 round bricks on each corner of each floor, to create a coherent look. With two 2x2 bricks used as foundations for each corner, this saves another four blocks of space, so I am back down to twenty-four blocks of dark bluish gray bricks for each ground floor wall, success! Imperial Watchtower Version 3 by R Y, on Flickr The door frame is made with reddish brown bricks and arches, the gaps between the buttress are filled in with 1x2 slopes. I expanded the bow window recess by three 1x2 bricks in the middle, I can’t believe I didn’t do that from the start, as my first attempt left a big gap below the corner window frames. The base of the recess is raised by a stud as I pushed the recess out over the cliff edge by one stud, the connection is done by a dark tan 2x4 plate onto the ground floor. The black 1x4x3 window frame is moved down one block, to create a coherent line of light bluish gray blocks beneath the battlement. Imperial Watchtower Version 3 by R Y, on Flickr Imperial Watchtower Version 3 by R Y, on Flickr Imperial Watchtower Version 3 by R Y, on Flickr Imperial Watchtower Version 3 by R Y, on Flickr Imperial Watchtower Version 3 by R Y, on Flickr Imperial Watchtower Version 3 by R Y, on Flickr
  13. With time, I try to see if I can improve on my designs, as LEGO blocks do not need glue, a lot of building and dismantling before coming to a satisfying solution. I wanted to increase floor space of the ground floor by filling up the spaces between the buttress corners. I studied the instructions of the LEGO Model B, learning how its ground floor is enlarged. My main concern is still whether I have enough dark bluish gray bricks for the expansion. Each six stud wide tower wall requires a space of twenty four 1x1 dark bluish gray blocks in the middle; by expanding to an eight stud wide wall, thirty six 1x1 blocks are required, I don’t have enough. I designed an opening with one 1x4 arch and two 1x1 round bricks, that frees up eight bricks of space. I moved one light bluish gray 2x2 brick from the first floor to the ground floor, as I wanted no more than three 1x1 round bricks on each corner of each floor, to create a coherent look. With two 2x2 bricks used as foundations for each corner, this saves another four blocks of space, so I am back down to twenty-four blocks of dark bluish gray bricks for each ground floor wall, success! Imperial Watchtower Version 3 by R Y, on Flickr The door frame is made with reddish brown bricks and arches, the gaps between the buttress are filled in with 1x2 slopes. I expanded the bow window recess by three 1x2 bricks in the middle, I can’t believe I didn’t do that from the start, as my first attempt left a big gap below the corner window frames. The base of the recess is raised by a stud as I pushed the recess out over the cliff edge by one stud, the connection is done by a dark tan 2x4 plate onto the ground floor. The black 1x4x3 window frame is moved down one block, to create a coherent line of light bluish gray blocks beneath the battlement. Imperial Watchtower Version 3 by R Y, on Flickr Imperial Watchtower Version 3 by R Y, on Flickr Imperial Watchtower Version 3 by R Y, on Flickr Imperial Watchtower Version 3 by R Y, on Flickr Imperial Watchtower Version 3 by R Y, on Flickr Imperial Watchtower Version 3 by R Y, on Flickr
  14. Looks so fresh! beautiful ship
  15. That archway door looks so much better than the bland rectangle door!
  16. Thank you, this topic is amazing!
  17. I didn't know the difference between dragons and wyverns until this week, haha, reading up on reviews on the 31120 and researches online, I thought Smaug in the Hobbit movies was a dragon, but it seems Peter Jackson created his own version compared to Tolkien's 4-legged dragon. Four legs made the model more substantial and balanced.
  18. Thank you! yes, as an extension to a coastal defence fortress with heaps of cannons.
  19. Yeah, quite interested in the Bowser Airship, can get two, use the bow pieces for both the bow and stern of the ship like the old Pirate ships.
  20. My first modification of the dragon turns out to be a wyvern, what I thought to be front legs on the wings are just clawed wrists of their wings, dragons have four legs that are independent from its wings. Three plates are the distance required so the wings and front legs on ball joints do not interfere with each other, I used a green 2x4 plate plus two dark tan 1x2 plates to build up the torso that has eight ball joint plates. I made the front legs shorter and slimmer by removing the large 1x3x2 arch and using the just the smaller green slope, with two flower plates as support. I changed how the single claw is attached on the wing wrist by using black brackets, the dark green open clip tile sticks out too much. The expanded wingspan and longer tail balanced out this four-legged fire-breathing dragon. I love this brick-built dragon, the same ball jointed torso design idea can be applied to many other animals. Four-legged Dragon by R Y, on Flickr Four-legged Dragon by R Y, on Flickr Four-legged Dragon by R Y, on Flickr Four-legged Dragon by R Y, on Flickr Four-legged Dragon by R Y, on Flickr
  21. thank you, goes nicely with ships and bays! That is the original LEGO design from the gatehouse, I built everything up from that corner. Thank you, it was great fun doing the different builds with the different colours!
  22. The Imperial Watchtower is up to Version Four, on 28th June 2021. Imperial Watch Tower Version Four by R Y, on Flickr Imperial Watch Tower Version Four by R Y, on Flickr After building my Grand Castle MOD by deconstructing the second Medieval Castle, I was left with the rocky green base from the gatehouse, a staircase and a bottom of a battlement, plus some wall sections and what seems like a lot of spare pieces at the time. Instead taking those apart and sorting them out, I thought why not build something instead. From building four towers, and studying the instructions of B Model, I decided to use that experience and knowledge to build an Imperial watchtower, overlooking an waterway or the sea. MOC Imperial Watchtower 31120 by R Y, on Flickr I used the 8x16 brick yellow plate as the base, the dark azure plates surround it to create the coast and two olive green half circle plates for grass lands. I know that each level will be six bricks. I have three 4x8 dark tan plates to build as the cliff top, a 2x4 dark tan plate will be the base of the staircase also connecting the 4x8 half round olive green plate to the 8x16 tan plate. Using this knowledge I can gauge how far to build the cliff base from the edge of the plate, ten studs long, I still don’t know if I have enough pieces, I used inverted slopes where possible, placing the flat face on the outside. The two reddish brown 1x5x4 arch pieces are sitting on a combination 1x4 light bluish gray arches and 1x4 2 studs plates, and 1x6 dark blue tiles completes the steps. MOC Imperial Watchtower 31120 by R Y, on Flickr The tower is built like the original LEGO model, 6x6 studs side by side. I had six dark bluish grey panels left, they made up the walls with other bricks bordered by 1x1 round bricks. A black door frame was removed from the yellow wooden keep to make the entrance. I also have four 1x2x2 castle windows left as I removed them from my Grand Castle MOD, I needed black lattice diamond pane for the yellow keep. I was still short on dark bluish gray bricks so I needed to have more opening. I designed a bow window recess to free up a wall of dark bluish gray bricks, using reddish brown round corner windows and light bluish gray round corner macaronis, sitting on two inverted slopes, a dark blue slope and corner slopes for the roof. I really like the bow window recess as it provides a 180 degree view out to the sea. I managed to build up a two floor tower, again using inverted slopes to make up the numbers. I used the beautiful gargoyle design from LEGO model B, two are facing out to the sea, acting not only as elongated water sprouts directing water into the sea, they protect the tower from evil spirits. I introduced a bit of colour using the SNOT yellow wattle and daub panels sitting on two inverted brackets, I put one blue and one white 1x1 tooth plate to act as coat of arms on the yellow door sign. This made the tower ground floor one stud taller than the six bricks height of others. I didn’t initially use the dark tan 6x6 plates as the tower is enclosed, but realised they are required to provide structural rigidity to the body of the tower. MOC Imperial Watchtower 31120 by R Y, on Flickr MOC Imperial Watchtower 31120 by R Y, on Flickr That was my first watchtower attempt after many rebuilds, moving the light and dark bluish gray pieces around so at least the opposite walls on each level has the same colour and brick patterns. MOC Imperial Watchtower 31120 by R Y, on Flickr The next day, my mate was asking me about the Grand Castle MOD that I posted here, are the walls of the yellow wattle and daub building facing the great tower blocked off with bricks, or was it open access? I said it was open access on the first floor, closed on the second floor; then it dawned on me I can remove the two panels on the second floor, and possibly build up a third level. However, I still don’t have enough gray pieces. I know I have sacrificed the trebuchet design many times already, what is one more time… well, I had to take it apart completely this time. The counterweight provided the gray pieces, the frame provided five reddish brown tiles to swap out the dark blue ones on the staircase, two reddish brown 1x4 bricks were swapped into the roof of the keep for two dark bluish gray ones to go into the Imperial watchtower, four 1x1x5 solid studs and one 6x6 plate became the core of the roof. Two reddish brown arches went to the ground floor wooden columns to match the arches from first and second floor inside the yellow keep. Two 1x12 bricks are used on the cliff top to free up more grey bricks. As the tower got higher, I had to increase the height of the corner buttresses to balance it; they went from two bricks high, to three, and finally four, 2x2 corner bricks are used as I do not have enough 2x2 bricks. I moved the tower one stud inside the cliff, due to the round corner window piece broke up the line of light bluish gray edge, which is visually displeasing and break in weight transfer. Moving the whole tower in by one stud allows me to continue the edge from top down to bottom, with the brown window frame siting on the outside of the 1x1 round bricks, they are linked by two 1x2 round plates. One extra stud of space allowed me to create a nicer dark blue roof with a plate of yellow underneath. I had to take another black door frame from the yellow keep, on the second floor facing the tower, to support the back buttresses. I tend to hold the tower on the buttresses; as the bow window recess, built with 2x2 round corner bricks, is no longer in between the 2x2 bricks, the force of my finger grip would push in the buttresses and nearly collapsed the whole towel; the door frame solved this issue, a simple but very effective fix. The big 1x4x3 window with two pearl gold pane are used to provide the big opening on the third floor, I was literally on the last usable small gray pieces when it was built, the stepped pattern of dark and light bluish gray bricks is for looks and also due to the lack of bricks. MOC Imperial Watchtower 31120 by R Y, on Flickr Imperial Watchtower by R Y, on Flickr I wanted a pavilion roof originally, but do not have any 3x3 corner pieces left, so made to do with a dark blue gable roof. I was also short of a 1x2 yellow brick for the gable ends, so had to take one from the keep roof, replaced it with a yellow technic holed brick, hidden away from view. Dark blue 3x2 slopes stacked on top of each other with a 2x4 brick inside for support completed the roof with one flag on each gable. So here it is, after many rebuilds, my Imperial Watchtower made from the spare pieces of my Grand Castle MOD of 2 x 31120 Medieval Castle. Please share your thoughts on comments! MOC Imperial Watchtower 31120 by R Y, on Flickr MOC Imperial Watchtower 31120 by R Y, on Flickr MOC Imperial Watchtower 31120 by R Y, on Flickr MOC Imperial Watchtower 31120 by R Y, on Flickr MOC Imperial Watchtower 31120 by R Y, on Flickr
  23. After building my Grand Castle MOD by deconstructing the second Medieval Castle, I was left with the rocky green base from the gatehouse, a staircase and a bottom of a battlement, plus some wall sections and what seems like a lot of spare pieces at the time. Instead taking those apart and sorting them out, I thought why not build something instead. From building four towers, and studying the instructions of B Model, I decided to use that experience and knowledge to build an Imperial watchtower, overlooking an waterway or the sea. MOC Imperial Watchtower 31120 by R Y, on Flickr I used the 8x16 brick yellow plate as the base, the dark azure plates surround it to create the coast and two olive green half circle plates for grass lands. I know that each level will be six bricks. I have three 4x8 dark tan plates to build as the cliff top, a 2x4 dark tan plate will be the base of the staircase also connecting the 4x8 half round olive green plate to the 8x16 tan plate. Using this knowledge I can gauge how far to build the cliff base from the edge of the plate, ten studs long, I still don’t know if I have enough pieces, I used inverted slopes where possible, placing the flat face on the outside. The two reddish brown 1x5x4 arch pieces are sitting on a combination 1x4 light bluish gray arches and 1x4 2 studs plates, and 1x6 dark blue tiles completes the steps. MOC Imperial Watchtower 31120 by R Y, on Flickr The tower is built like the original LEGO model, 6x6 studs side by side. I had six dark bluish grey panels left, they made up the walls with other bricks bordered by 1x1 round bricks. A black door frame was removed from the yellow wooden keep to make the entrance. I also have four 1x2x2 castle windows left as I removed them from my Grand Castle MOD, I needed black lattice diamond pane for the yellow keep. I was still short on dark bluish gray bricks so I needed to have more opening. I designed a bow window recess to free up a wall of dark bluish gray bricks, using reddish brown round corner windows and light bluish gray round corner macaronis, sitting on two inverted slopes, a dark blue slope and corner slopes for the roof. I really like the bow window recess as it provides a 180 degree view out to the sea. I managed to build up a two floor tower, again using inverted slopes to make up the numbers. I used the beautiful gargoyle design from LEGO model B, two are facing out to the sea, acting not only as elongated water sprouts directing water into the sea, they protect the tower from evil spirits. I introduced a bit of colour using the SNOT yellow wattle and daub panels sitting on two inverted brackets, I put one blue and one white 1x1 tooth plate to act as coat of arms on the yellow door sign. This made the tower ground floor one stud taller than the six bricks height of others. I didn’t initially use the dark tan 6x6 plates as the tower is enclosed, but realised they are required to provide structural rigidity to the body of the tower. MOC Imperial Watchtower 31120 by R Y, on Flickr MOC Imperial Watchtower 31120 by R Y, on Flickr That was my first watchtower attempt after many rebuilds, moving the light and dark bluish gray pieces around so at least the opposite walls on each level has the same colour and brick patterns. MOC Imperial Watchtower 31120 by R Y, on Flickr The next day, my mate was asking me about the Grand Castle MOD that I posted here, are the walls of the yellow wattle and daub building facing the great tower blocked off with bricks, or was it open access? I said it was open access on the first floor, closed on the second floor; then it dawned on me I can remove the two panels on the second floor, and possibly build up a third level. However, I still don’t have enough gray pieces. I know I have sacrificed the trebuchet design many times already, what is one more time… well, I had to take it apart completely this time. The counterweight provided the gray pieces, the frame provided five reddish brown tiles to swap out the dark blue ones on the staircase, two reddish brown 1x4 bricks were swapped into the roof of the keep for two dark bluish gray ones to go into the Imperial watchtower, four 1x1x5 solid studs and one 6x6 plate became the core of the roof. Two reddish brown arches went to the ground floor wooden columns to match the arches from first and second floor inside the yellow keep. Two 1x12 bricks are used on the cliff top to free up more grey bricks. Keep Tower by R Y, on Flickr As the tower got higher, I had to increase the height of the corner buttresses to balance it; they went from two bricks high, to three, and finally four, 2x2 corner bricks are used as I do not have enough 2x2 bricks. I moved the tower one stud inside the cliff, due to the round corner window piece broke up the line of light bluish gray edge, which is visually displeasing and break in weight transfer. Moving the whole tower in by one stud allows me to continue the edge from top down to bottom, with the brown window frame siting on the outside of the 1x1 round bricks, they are linked by two 1x2 round plates. One extra stud of space allowed me to create a nicer dark blue roof with a plate of yellow underneath. I had to take another black door frame from the yellow keep, on the second floor facing the tower, to support the back buttresses. I tend to hold the tower on the buttresses; as the bow window recess, built with 2x2 round corner bricks, is no longer in between the 2x2 bricks, the force of my finger grip would push in the buttresses and nearly collapsed the whole towel; the door frame solved this issue, a simple but very effective fix. The big 1x4x3 window with two pearl gold pane are used to provide the big opening on the third floor, I was literally on the last usable small gray pieces when it was built, the stepped pattern of dark and light bluish gray bricks is for looks and also due to the lack of bricks. MOC Imperial Watchtower 31120 by R Y, on Flickr Imperial Watchtower by R Y, on Flickr I wanted a pavilion roof originally, but do not have any 3x3 corner pieces left, so made to do with a dark blue gable roof. I was also short of a 1x2 yellow brick for the gable ends, so had to take one from the keep roof, replaced it with a yellow technic holed brick, hidden away from view. Dark blue 3x2 slopes stacked on top of each other with a 2x4 brick inside for support completed the roof with one flag on each gable. So here it is, after many rebuilds, my Imperial Watchtower made from the spare pieces of my Grand Castle MOD of 2 x 31120 Medieval Castle. Please share your thoughts on comments! MOC Imperial Watchtower 31120 by R Y, on Flickr MOC Imperial Watchtower 31120 by R Y, on Flickr MOC Imperial Watchtower 31120 by R Y, on Flickr MOC Imperial Watchtower 31120 by R Y, on Flickr MOC Imperial Watchtower 31120 by R Y, on Flickr
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