Wurger49

thank you for the feedback, I now see you are referring to the hull is too long, which won't change if I extend the masts.

This is very nice, I like how you included a courtyard.

Back in September, as I was posting my version 3 and 4 of the Pirate Ship Mod on social media, Graham Hancock reached out to me from the awesome monthly LEGO magazine, Blocks (www.blocksmag.com). Graham asked if they can feature this build in the magazine, to be honest I was stocked! Initially I thought it was going to be a picture of my MOD with a reference, a few weeks after doing an email Q&A, Graham told me my answers and pics will be featured on Issue 73. I was flattered for the recognition and really pleased with how well Graham put together this 2-page feature. Big thanks to Graham for reaching out to me! MOD article from Blocks Magazine by R Y, on Flickr In the meantime, I have seen other great MODs for the 31109 from fellow members of LEGO Pirates groups, I decided to progress my build to version 5, a larger topsail with a main topgallant sail on a taller main mast. @SteamSewnEmpire @Verodin @Corydoras The topsail was heightened by 2 studs and widened by 4 studs, so there are 5 pieces of white curved panels at the bottom of the sail. Ideally, I needed 2 pieces of white plate 2 x 16, but only 1 was available, so I substituted that with 3 shorter plates. The side edges of the sail were completed by using white wedge plates 4 x 2. The skull and crossbones moved down the sail by 1 stud. The main topsail yard was moved upwards to accommodate the larger sail. I used the same technique to connect the topgallant yard as LEGO did for the topsail yards. 3 white curved panels were used for the topgallant sail. I simplified how the spanker yard is attached to the mizzen mast, by using only a pin connector plate and a hinge plate. The main mast started to sag with the extra weight of the plates, I had to rest the topsail on the mainsail yard to balance out the mast. I now appreciate why LEGO didn’t include bigger sails in the original build, they are just too heavy for standard technic pieces. Port View by R Y, on Flickr Bow by R Y, on Flickr Stern Port by R Y, on Flickr Sails by R Y, on Flickr Stern Starboard by R Y, on Flickr

It’s a very small ship next to the barracuda bay.

It’s a beautiful design, love how the waterline forms a platform above the seabed filled with fun ideas.

Thank you the for suggestion, using the special mast pieces will solve the mast height problem, I didn't enjoy connecting all those round bricks when I was making the Barracuda Bay, so yeah, special mast piece wins! One thing to keep in mind is that brick sails are very heavy compared to cloth sails, I have seen some MODs' masting drooping forwards when they add to the brick sails without using the ziplines. In my MOD, I try to add to original designs, like cannons, plates, and grille pieces, while keeping the replacement pieces to a minimum, like using the brick sails and ziplines. The horizontal ziplines going from bow to stern are vital for stability of my mast designs.

Thank you, I do like the changes, I have also made a 3 major revisions to my June MOD. The traingular sail that is above the sprit topmast is called a jib. The triangular sail on the mizzen-mast is called a staysail, which real ships don't use on the aftmost mast, they carry a gaff rig sail called spanker.

Wow, just applause! The Golden Devil!

stern shoots from The Sailing Frigate: A History in Ship Models Book by Robert Gardiner 4th rate 1685 by R Y, on Flickr 6th rate 1702 by R Y, on Flickr

I would say remove the chequer design and have a centre decoration like this model. https://www.modelships.de/La_Belle_Ferlemann/Photos_La_belle.htm

Not at all, discussions spark ideas and changes

I like how you exaggerated pear shaped hull. interesting fact from wiki "The pear-shaped vessel had a large cargo bay near the waterline and a relatively narrow deck above. In part, this design served to avoid high taxes collected by Denmark in the Øresund, assessed based on the area of the main deck. "

you are absolutely correct, Lego design isn't about replicating a look 100%, it's actually impossbile. A good designer like you can achieve a balance of technical accuracy and visual pleasure, like how LEGO did the UCS batmobile wings. Have a look at how 31109 does the sloped top decks, it uses a simple hinged mechanism, it's works very well. The 31109 actually has a lot of smart techniques included.

While the hull is better, imho, I find the sloped wall from quarter deck to poop deck to be too much, prefer a stepped look of the first version or less sheer by making the quarter deck walls higher, as the poop deck height is set from your stern ornament.

Thank you for the historical background too, the half barrel also needs to go with the hoses. Will play around with it and wait for the next BrickLink run.

Wow, that is an very old book, and The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War : 1650-1850, from the same era, 1980s. Luckily, their scanned PDFs can be found online.

I love the new vanguard series, a lot of pics and an easy read, they complement the heavy military history books I read. Another book I recommend: The Sailing Frigate: A History in Ship Models,

Thanks for the links, great read and and a beautiful bricky ship.

Brian Lavery's books like Wooden Warship Construction: A History in Ship Models, The Ship of the Line: A History in Ship Models, are great and available on kindle or google play. I also have Dutch Navies of the 80 Years' War 1568–1648 (New Vanguard Book 263) and Warships of the Anglo-Dutch Wars 1652–74 (New Vanguard Book 183).

Yes, I agree with not bumping old threads in general, but why not if one has a question? I do MODs and love to learn from others. I just want to point out that a question was asked by @Brickander Brickumnus about the SNOT technique, which @SteamSewnEmpire replied and commented on directly.

The masts of the ship is made with technic round connectors and axels, held in place with ziplines vertically and horizontally. As those hoses are set length, it's very difficult to lengthend the mast as they become wobbly. The only way around it is to use custom rigging, but I quite like how Lego implemented the ziplines instead of their normal shrouds.

like i said on the other topic, really like how your curved the hull but kept the gun deck flat. Really looking forward to see some renders.

I like your constructive feedback, especially this: "this technique obliges the builder to incorporate sheer into the setting of the gunports, which - in most cases - is exaggerated when compared to real world men-of-war. When you look at line drawings from the age of sail - even the 17th Century, when hull curvature was most pronounced - gun ports are in a fairly straight line down the length of a vessel. The hull is extremely curved, but the internal decking much less so. So, again, there is a give and take with this approach." I see a lot of people's models where gun ports are concaved towards the middle, while it's a nice Lego model, but it's not accurate.

Niceee, i like this one the best out of your recent posts!