Wurger49

Started on this last weekend, I think I am nearly there, any suggestions please? Imperial LAAT Gunship, 2 x 75338 by Richard Yao, on Flickr Imperial LAAT Gunship, 2 x 75338 by Richard Yao, on Flickr

V1.1 Update I moved four 2x4 dark bluish grey plates from two central solar wings, rearranged the black tiles for so they are structurally stable. Moved those four plates to the underside of the back disc, did further rearrangement of plates to clean it up, and the side slopes are held even more securely. I changed the greebling arrangement for the Hyperdrive. Tie Advanced X1 1.4_5 by Richard Yao, on Flickr Tie Advanced X1 1.4_3 by Richard Yao, on Flickr

Thanks man, will look into the area above the cockpit. I love doing alternate builds using only pieces off an official set, it's a nice challenge and easier for normies friends to start on their MOC build jouney with all the pieces there.

2023 is the year of LEGO Star Wars TIEs, TIE bomber has returned after 20 years, and the TIE Interceptor has returned after 17 years, both great models worthy of picking up. The last minifigure scale TIE Advanced x1 was from 2017 which I don’t have, I was itching for an TIE Advanced to go with my 2018 Solo Tie Fighter. For 75347, there is a Darth Vader figure included in the TIE bomber set, very strange choice to be honest but that’s the impetus for me, its bent wings and double fuselage gives me more pieces to work with. Recently, Amazon was doing a sale at $71.20 AUD, I decided to buy two sets. I built the bomber first to learn the techniques before disassembling to rebuild. Tie Advanced X1 v1.2_3 by Richard Yao, on Flickr The solar arrays are the easiest to modify, moved the black tiles one stud from the edge so the whole support frame is one stud from the solar panels. Ideally, I would like to have 8 additional 1x2 black tiles to go in below the triangular tiles. The solar power converter has been thinned to 2 studs wide like the main support strut, the wedge plates are needed elsewhere. I thought about reducing the height of the bent panels, but decided against it as the original TIE Advanced has wide panels. Tie Advanced X1 v1.2_7 by Richard Yao, on Flickr The wing spars are made longer by 2 studs, using the mainly sloped pieces to create the bulky angular shape. I used two 1x2 slopes to have the opening to show the deflector shield generators on the front. The smaller 4x4 cockpit dish has no bar handle, and I really wanted to make sure Vader can get inside the cockpit, so the official LEGO designed opening is kept. I turned the horizontal laid hinge piece to the vertical plane to keep the cockpit as round as possible. IMG_3663 by Richard Yao, on Flickr As I was designing the hatch of the eyeball cockpit, the first few attempts were the same tubular design of the official set, definitely not what I wanted. I then tried out the round corner bricks, they looked great from all views, and I flipped the 1x2 slopes so the wider side is facing the round bricks, reducing gaps between the pieces. The newly printed 6x6 inverted radar with two Ingot bars acting as upper viewports formed the access hatch. IMG_3666 by Richard Yao, on Flickr Now I moved to the back where the hyperdrive is located, supported by the disc like structure which houses the power cells and the stabilizing field projector bars. I used two 6x6 round plates as the basis for the shape. After trying out many different methods of connecting them to the cockpit and wing spars; my design used two 1x10 tan plates and two 1x6 black plates to sandwich the two 6x6 round plates, all four plates connect back to the cockpit and supported the entire back section with no wobble. I designed this section without wings, after I put on the wings, I realized the disc structure was too narrow, and had to widen it by two studs on both sides. I had to use white and dark bluish grey plates to support the pieces, leaving a messy looking underside. For the round edge of the disc, I tried multiple combinations of four wedge pieces and two curved slope pieces, decided to separate the wedges pieces as side by side they form a straight edge, I prefer to show the round shape of the 6x6 plate from the top view. Tie Advanced X1 v1.3_4 by Richard Yao, on Flickr The two pairs of red ion engine exhausts are attached by 1x2 brackets, I managed to put them on the same location above and below the back disc. There are not many parts for greebling on the Hyperdriver, two grille pieces for the thermal radiator ports and two roller stakes to fill in space. Tie Advanced X1 v1.2_4 by Richard Yao, on Flickr On the earlier versions of this ship, I left the two laser cannons on the side of the cockpit as the official set, after which I have mostly finished up, I wanted to see if I can move them below the viewport. After placing the two 1x1 light attachment plates on the bottom of the cockpit, the 1x1 round pin tiles don’t fit as their placement is too close to the inverted slope. I had to use long technic pins from the actual drop bombs, push them though the ring attachment. The inverted curved slope means the cannon attachment is one stud back from the edge, so Vader lost his lightsaber hilts to trade for long Ion cannon barrels. I know the cannons meant to be embedded inside the cockpit module, I haven’t figured it out with the pieces available from 75347, though my end product does look like aircraft gun pods. Tie Advanced X1 v1.2_9 by Richard Yao, on Flickr I am pretty happy with the end product, it’s a very solid swooshable model that uses 453 pieces. Please let me know your thoughts on the comments below. Instructions are available on rebrickable.com. https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-146501/wurger49/tiead-advanced-x1-vaders-fighter-alternate-75347/#details

Thank you, the top of the bow is the forecastle, well, pretend to be as it's hollow inside, the bowsprit is sitting on the beak. I am trying to change the figurehead, but don't think I still design a better one than bowser's head, I don't want to use the turtle blue wizard. thank you! the green and the printed tiles look great thank you! thank you, I am working to lengthen the beak of the ship at the moment.

Thank you, I have used up all the hull parts from the 2 sets, except for one bow piece. I think I stretched out the hull length as much as I could using the pieces from the official set. Thank you, no interior, just a shell.

thank you!

thank you guys, the clearance prices really helped! Hi @Mister PhesI realised I posted didn't post this in the MOC subforum, can you please change? Thank you

I wanted to build a bigger pirate ship from the Bowser's Airship 71391 the moment it was announced, other expenses occurred and that was put on the back burner. However, when Australian Kmart put them on clearance at $69 AUD each, I had to jump and bought 2 sets for me, 1 set for my boy. I am still working on the different arrangements of the sails and decks, I think the hull, forecastle and aftcastle is pretty much done. Any suggestions and comments are welcome! Pirate Ship Minotaur, 2 x Super Mario Bowser's Airship 71391 by Richard Yao, on Flickr Pirate Ship Minotaur, 2 x Super Mario Bowser's Airship 71391 by Richard Yao, on Flickr Pirate Ship Minotaur, 2 x Super Mario Bowser's Airship 71391 by Richard Yao, on Flickr

thanks guys, the original LEGO set is very stubby, though the designer is bound by piece count and price; New Length is 55cm, width remained 15cm including shields, 13.5cm without shields.

Another year of LEGO bringing back a classic theme on the large Creator 3-in-1 set, this time is the 31132 Viking Ship and the Midgard Serpent; I decided to upgrade the ship into a proper Longship using only parts from two 31132 sets. The bow and stern of the ship remained the same, I loved the SNOT techniques that created the keel and the dragon figure head and tail. The mid-section is lengthened to eight 1x4 Palisade bricks with one 1x2 Palisade brick in the middle for the mast. This allows for all 8 different shields onto hang on the side of the ship, the last shields are two studs closer to the ends of the ship compare to the original. The mast is made taller with the brick sail made wider to 13 alternating red and white stripes. The rigging using flexible hoses are a bit challenging to be taut with the spacings of the new lengthen, have to rig it on the opposite handle of the steering wheel. The covered area has been extended to the back of the mast, providing covering for the dinning area and two cows. I didn’t even open up the 7th bag for the serpent, and this upgrade MOD has many pieces left, I will hopefully have enough to build a blacksmith. LEGO Creator Viking Ship 31132 Upgrade to a Longship by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO Creator Viking Ship 31132 Upgrade to a Longship by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO Creator Viking Ship 31132 Upgrade to a Longship by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO Creator Viking Ship 31132 Upgrade to a Longship by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO Creator Viking Ship 31132 Upgrade to a Longship by Richard Yao, on Flickr

I have realised that the legs are 3 sections instead of 2, so I have updated the model to reflect that. The laser gun mount has also being updated. Star Wars 501st AT-RT Walker V1.1 75280 by Richard Yao, on Flickr Star Wars 501st AT-RT Walker V1.1 75280 by Richard Yao, on Flickr Star Wars 501st AT-RT Walker V1.1 75280 by Richard Yao, on Flickr Star Wars 501st AT-RT Walker V1.1 75280 by Richard Yao, on Flickr

Very late in doing these MODs, Australia didn't have any stock for 501st Battle Pack for much of 2021, finally got two 75280s on my hands via a seller in Germany, shipping took ages due to Covid. I rebuilt the BARC Speeder and AT-RT to be more screen accurate and closer to scale. I also started to use Studio to reverse engineer my builds digitally so I can generate instructions. https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-92197/wurger49/501st-clone-barc-speeder-and-at-rt-only-pieces-from-75280/#details LEGO Star Wars 75280 501st Clone BARC Speeder and AT-RT Upgrade Alternate Build MOD by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO Star Wars 75280 501st Clone BARC Speeder and AT-RT Upgrade Alternate Build MOD by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO Star Wars 75280 501st Clone BARC Speeder and AT-RT Upgrade Alternate Build MOD by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO Star Wars 75280 501st Clone BARC Speeder and AT-RT Upgrade Alternate Build MOD by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO Star Wars 75280 501st Clone BARC Speeder and AT-RT Upgrade Alternate Build MOD by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO Star Wars 75280 501st Clone BARC Speeder and AT-RT Upgrade Alternate Build MOD by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO Star Wars 75280 501st Clone BARC Speeder and AT-RT Upgrade Alternate Build MOD by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO Star Wars 75280 501st Clone BARC Speeder and AT-RT Upgrade Alternate Build MOD by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO Star Wars 75280 501st Clone BARC Speeder and AT-RT Upgrade Alternate Build MOD by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO Star Wars 75280 501st Clone BARC Speeder and AT-RT Upgrade Alternate Build MOD by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO Star Wars 75280 501st Clone BARC Speeder and AT-RT Upgrade Alternate Build MOD by Richard Yao, on Flickr

Yeah, you won't regret it. The official set is better than the MOCs out there in this scale.

Thank you. For the flaps, they look good to me, the gold connectors are very strong, I can’t think of any other way to attach the the flaps.

The LEGO 76239 Batmobile Tumbler: Scarecrow Showdown is a great model that doesn’t break the bank to buy and doesn’t take up too much space inside a home. Using the pieces I have on hand, I changed the roof plates so it’s closer to the original design, the official roof design just has too many studs compare to the rest of the body. I have also removed the stud shooters next to the front wheels. Extra Pieces Required: 2 x 61409 Black Slope 18 2 x 1 x 2/3 with 4 Slots 1 x 3023 Black Plate 1 x 2 1 x 3020 Black Plate 2 x 4 1 x 43722 Black Wedge, Plate 3 x 2 Right 1 x 43723 Black Wedge, Plate 3 x 2 Left 2 x 2431 Black Tile 1 x 4 2 x 27263 Black Tile, Modified Facet 2 x 2 Corner with Cut Corner 2 x 63864 Black Tile 1 x 3 LEGO 76239 Batmobile Tumbler MOD by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO 76239 Batmobile Tumbler MOD by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO 76239 Batmobile Tumbler MOD by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO 76239 Batmobile Tumbler MOD by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO 76239 Batmobile Tumbler MOD by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO 76239 Batmobile Tumbler MOD by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO 76239 Batmobile Tumbler MOD by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO 76239 Batmobile Tumbler MOD by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO 76239 Batmobile Tumbler MOD by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO 76239 Batmobile Tumbler MOD by Richard Yao, on Flickr

thank you, never thought I could squeeze so much articulation into one small model.

Thank you! You would have all the pieces if you have two 31120 castle sets.

My first modification of the dragon turns out to be a wyvern, what I thought to be front legs on the wings are just clawed wrists of their wings, dragons have four legs that are independent from its wings. Three plates are the distance required so the wings and front legs on ball joints do not interfere with each other, I used a green 2x4 plate plus two dark tan 1x2 plates to build up the torso that has eight ball joint plates. I made the front legs shorter and slimmer by removing the large 1x3x2 arch and using the just the smaller green slope, with two flower plates as support. I changed how the single claw is attached on the wing wrist by using black brackets, the dark green open clip tile sticks out too much. The expanded wingspan and longer tail balanced out this four-legged fire-breathing dragon. I love this brick-built dragon, the same ball jointed torso design idea can be applied to many other animals. In the latest version I have added two more ball joints to the wings, added plates to reinforce the joints and wings. There are now 10 ball joints and 9 bar joints on this dragon! The wing joints allow the wings to have many different angles and sweeps: - Gull Wing - Inverted gull wing - M-wing - W-wing Exploded Views Photos Below: LEGO Creator Medieval Castle Dragon 31120 by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO Creator Medieval Castle Dragon 31120 by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO Creator Medieval Castle Dragon 31120 by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO Creator Medieval Castle Dragon 31120 by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO Creator Medieval Castle Dragon 31120 by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO Creator Medieval Castle Dragon 31120 by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO Creator Medieval Castle Dragon 31120 by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO Creator Medieval Castle Dragon 31120 by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO Creator Medieval Castle Dragon 31120 by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO Creator Medieval Castle Dragon 31120 by Richard Yao, on Flickr LEGO Creator Medieval Castle Dragon 31120 by Richard Yao, on Flickr

Do you have a 2nd set to build this MOD? I would recommend build it up from the official lego set, no point disassemble everything.

thank you! let me know if you have any questions. They are now around $50.

oh right, I get you now.

Nice, keen to see some photos, the official main build pretty good I got to say, curious to see how your drawbridge looks on the other side.

Thank you! With different designs there are different reasons and justifications, hopefully I explained why the changes and placements are applied across the different posts, I try to avoid being different for the sake of different. Try your hand on the 2 sets first, before adding a third set, as LEGO is expensive, takes up space and there are always new sets coming around the corner.

Thank you for letting me know that you were successful in doing this MOD. I used the dark tan tiles for the boxes, as all 4 LBG tiles were used in the vehicles. I left the troops inside the vehicle, so I didn't need more than 1 mortar.