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Ankoku

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Everything posted by Ankoku

  1. Yeah, I am not entirely sure what I was thinking there. I often use the black ones, even when they can't actually be seen. When I get the replacement net, I will replace the red Technic, Axle 2 Notched to a black one and swap the redish brown Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Triple with a black one. I am also note sure why Technic, Brick 1 x 6 with Holes are used instead of just a Technic, Brick 1 x 2 with Hole. I can potentially see the use of it at the very bottom. That said, the rest could be just the Technic, Brick 1 x 2 with Hole since it is all clamped together. Would be far less visible holes on the side.
  2. This is for @9v system. Apologies for the slightly fuzzy image. So this was a hack of a colour change, since I pretty much changed everything which was light bluish grey to black. Obviously, I changed the baseplates colour. I still need to change the bricks at the base on the left from dark bluish grey to black. I think I will most likely changed the tiles at the top to dark bluish grey, so it goes grey, black, grey. As you can see, behind the gears, there are a couple of black Technic, Liftarm 1 x 6 Thin which got caught in the black change, which I will most likely switch back to light bluish grey. There is also a a black Technic, Pin Double with Axle Hole, which I will most likely keep as is, to match the Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular Split, since it doesn't come in red. Will changed the light bluish grey Technic, Axle 9 to being yellow, to match the Technic, Shock Absorber 9.5L (Soft Spring) behind it. Oh and I changed the light bluish grey Technic, Gear 24 Tooth (2nd Version - 1 Axle Hole) on the hopper to dark bluish grey. I do kinda want to replace the ball holder arm to a different design, try and make it light, more rigid, but that is for another day.
  3. This is for @9v system. Nothing too fancy here. Changed the belt pin type and colour. More importantly for me, I changed the base colour as I am not a fan of either blue or green. In the end, I will cover over all the the bricks at the bottom with either black or dark bluish grey tiles, which should hopefully hide the colour mismatch of the rectangle in the middle. I will also add white tiles over any white studs at the sides and back. There is a couple of Plate 4 x 4 at the back, which I may change to Tile, Modified 4 x 4 with Studs on Edge. Changed the hopper entry point tiles to Tile 1 x 4 with Black and Yellow Danger Stripes Black Pattern. Also changed a couple of Technic, Pin 3L with Friction Ridges to a couple of yellow Technic, Liftarm 1 x 3 Thick, just so they aren't as noticeable. Still debating whether to changed black ramps to white ones inside the tunnels. The all white net is not by choice, I am currently waiting on getting the old style. My Hockey and Ball Factory will basically have standard colour choices. Fork to Fork will have a bunch of modifications, colour wise. Mainly just highlight changes. I am currently in the process of working out what parts to order. ( It seems that Bricksafe resizing doesn't do portrait O_o; )
  4. Random coincidental find! It got uploaded yesterday.
  5. At the minute, I am going to commit to doing The Sun in Studio 2.0 and get instructions out of that. Did it work okay? I noticed some balls hanging around underneath it in the video, as though it had dropped some.
  6. Has there been any better images or instructions for this module? This is a screenshot from this video at the 2:26 mark: I have seen many variations of this style, but I like the smoothness of this one and the types of pieces it uses. e.g. I have a lot of black Technic, Liftarm 2 x 4 L-Shape Thick pieces kicking around.
  7. Yeah, I was thinking of the earlier version of the robot arm he did, the 5-axis one. I actually prefer the look of the 5-axis one :P Found the one I was thinking of at a GBC event, it is at the 1:20 mark: I suspect it is IceLeftD's robot arm, which is inspired by Akiyuki's 5 axis one. So yeah, I am not sure if anyone has had a stab at the 6 axis one.
  8. I changed one of the axles, which helped it, but I am still not 100% happy with the sound of the motor. Listening to his motor, his doesn't sound great either. I do wonder if they changed the material in the axles or storage/age impacts them. e.g. movement wise, the replacement felt as though it stuck less. Both the vertical slider and the horizontal slider at the bottom are a bit iffy.
  9. Anyone here built the hockey module? I am finding that the ball lifter at the start, the bit which lifts the ball on to the white antennas, is sticking at the bottom. Since it is only being lifted from one side, it make the lifter angle slight, which increases the friction on the axles it is travelling up.
  10. Found a Fork-to-Fork video which highlights why I changed certain aspects of it back to the Akiyuki original design, over what the instructions create: At the 1:00min mark, you can see the wheel stuttering as the sides of it rub against the ball holder. This is because some Slope 30 1 x 2 x 2/3 were added which obstruct the path of the wheel. They aren't in the original design, so I removed them and that allows the wheel to rotate without obstruction. I did leave the Tile 1 x 2 with Groove, as they didn't obstruct the wheel and covered over a few studs. You can also see that the Technic, Liftarm 1 x 3 Thin on the inside of the wheel is sat at a far higher position than in the original design, yet at the same time, you can see how the balls almost have to climb to get onto the off-ramp at 1:11min. This is because the off-ramp is 1 plate too high. Bringing it back down to the original height simplifies the wall and means that the balls come off the wheel far more easily. It doesn't really show the method of connection between base and fork holder near the wheel. Changing it back to the original just makes more sense. Far more stable and smaller. It is nice to see the alternative colour schemes out there. There is also a blue one and a yellow one on YouTube. My main issue with mine currently, which is, for the most part, going off the same colours as the instructions, is that the main section is VERY black. Painfully so. Been looking at various antenna and bar colour combination. I may just go for a change in bar colour and maybe switch the black Plate 2 x 3 to light bluish grey. Gonna try yellow Technic Knob Wheel instead of black, since I have them. Will try yellow Technic, Liftarm 1 x 3 Thin on the inside of the wheels and change the tiles on the top of the wheel wall to light bluish grey.
  11. Kinda cool, GBC at Brickfest 2006.
  12. Get the feeling that one is going to be popular at events! Good work!
  13. @Jonas Want to add it here as well: As that is where most people will look for it. @Juroen Are the axles it runs along straight? Sometimes they can be a little bent and thus cause friction.
  14. @Jonas Is it worth adding the photos to BrickSafe and posting the link on the General GBC thread? I am sure others would be interested in them!
  15. With some models, I change certain colours to change it up a bit, make it unique to me, whilst keeping the majority the original and more common colour.
  16. You want this thread for non-Akiyuki GBC: The GBC Relay looks very similar to Akiyuki's cup to cup. Same gears, same motion, so you could have a look at the instructions for that when it comes to gearing, motor etc. Akiyuki modules are handy as you have full instructions and part lists. Train system may be better when you have more spare LEGO. When you are doing an order for bricks, it is always worth seeing what stock the sellers have, buy extra of various things you think you may need in the future. Make the most of the postage cost. Start collecting some train tracks :P
  17. As a single entity, I think the Akiyuki Train lift and dumper + the mods people have made to it, is a good contender. For me, the Cardan Lift is one of those bonkers things I would never have been able to come up with myself. You can certainly reduce the number of gears in it, as this version has quite a lot, but still, even with an example of the mechanism, I don't think I would have been able to convert it to Technic.
  18. I am slowly making my way through the various Akiyuki modules and fixing the bits which either don't work very well, or far more commonly are wrong in the instructions in comparison to his original design. Just fixed the Fork to Fork module. Not entirely happy with the motion of the arms, but I am not sure it can be changed. It makes me want counter balance them for a smoother motion. Still in process of fixing catch and release. Made a few bits far better, but I suspect it needs to be driven from both ends to stop torque issues flinging the odd ball out.
  19. It is just the OCD in me. It is certainly not needed at all.
  20. In comparison to the Akiyuki Ball Factory, the timings are pretty generous. I am contemplating changing the ball holding arm to try and make it a bit lighter or adding some support, since it sticks out so far. I just like trying to make things run as smooth as possible.
  21. It is just a screen grab from YouTube. I went for the grey base plates too.
  22. Came across these modifications to the Cardan Lift off ramp. I am planning on implementing something similar as balls do get trapped in that middle section. It self corrects as more balls come along and push them out, but it isn't ideal.
  23. Okay, so I have confirmed that the off-ramp from the wheel is at the wrong height. I have added the missing pin to make the wheel drive mechanism more secure. I also spotted that this is different: So I am going to swap that. The approach in the image looks way more secure. Also, you can see that he doesn't have the slopes either side of the wheel, which were in the instructions, which snag due to the lack of perfect roundness to the wheel.
  24. As far as I can tell, based off the Akiyuki video, the run-off from the top of the ramp is at the wrong height in the instructions. It doesn't match the video.
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