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Ankoku

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Everything posted by Ankoku

  1. Ankoku
    I had an issue with the Hockey Lift due to a bent axle. I swear to this day that the axle was straight as an arrow, but swapping it fixed the issue. I don't think the axle lengths should be an issue. e.g. it adds additional weight, but that isn't the issue you are facing. The 32L is more an aesthetics thing. They also tend not to be very straight. I bought mine from LEGO directly and they aren't ideal. Every considered going: 12 + 12 + 8? Keeps it all black and reduces it to 3 axles. 12L are reasonably common. Obviously, 9L and 3L if you are wanting to preserve the yellow look. Seems to have a BlackTron look to it.
  2. Ankoku
    There is already one Heart Chain out in the wild. Looks like a slight adjustment to the drop off box is required, but other than that, it seems to work quite well. Still not going to build it, but it seems to run quite smoothly!
  3. Ankoku
    There shouldn't ever be enough resistance to cause that to be an issue. With most Akiyuki modules and I don't think Berthil's will be any different, you need to hand crank each bit to make sure everything is loose and running smoothly. If it isn't, something is wrong. One of the key things I worked on when fixing the ball factory back to the original design, was the fact that Akiyuki could hand crank it without issue. With Berthil's version, he can hand crank it without issue. I am sure many people will end up building it and if they try and hand crank it, it won't work so well. Just because there will be a bunch of resistances which shouldn't be there. Be it a bent axle, a bush or gear too tightly pressed against a liftarm etc. I am currently working on the Cup-to-Cup and the bunch of 40T gears weren't loose enough. That caused all sorts of issues. So I sat there, hand cranking it until I knew all of them were nice and smooth and there was little resistance. Now though, I feel as though the 12T and 24T gears together provide too much resistance, so I am going to test a different gear arrangement and see if that provides less resistance when I hand crank it. Hand cranking is king! :)
  4. Ankoku
    Which part of that mechanism is weak?
  5. Ankoku
    It is like an inverted version of Akiyuki's dragon heads module. Not keen on the lack of smoothness in the motion, but it is cool. Gonna add this, which isn't GBC, but by the same guy: Any GBC lover, loves good mechanisms and this machine has a few of note.
  6. Ankoku
    If you want to be really fancy, do a QR code to the YouTube video of the creator :D
  7. Ankoku
    I am going to make myself a testing returner. Most likely going to be a lift belt and some long Technic bricks with the large turntables for the balls to drop through. You see Akiyuki using one in a few of his videos.
  8. Ankoku
    I have started doing some GBC models in Stud.io and I have to admit, it is quicker and easier than I expected. You might want to look into it @Juroen. Obviously, not at the moment, as you are probably sick of the thing in that regard. Obviously, I would never to the tubing in a program like that though :P Fantastic achievement and it is nice to know there are a few Ball Cleaners out there in the wild now! Now all we need is a video of it running! Oh and you may want to take some photos from all angles. I am sure there must have been a few photo angles you wish you had access to whilst building it!
  9. Ankoku
    Same. I only have 4 of the black axle pins. I have a lot of grey gears and axle pins etc. instead of their tan counterparts. Whenever I am pulling together parts of a module, I end up putting in the correct amount in both colours and then make decisions as I build. My main issue is that a good chunk of my stuff is old enough to be pre-colour change. Telling light grey from light bluish grey is annoying at times. The other novelty is the thickness of the plastic on pins. Some incredibly thin, others are disturbingly thick. It is like a history of LEGO plastic production. Not sure if it was the black axle pins, but I know one of the rare pieces was all the range one year, but never made it out of that year.
  10. Ankoku
    I am starting to feel as though we should use blue pins where they can't easily be seen and old-school black ones where they are obvious.
  11. Ankoku
    This does actually get you there. It is done via 6 gears, rather than the 8 shown here. It does provide a smoother drive chain. Not convinced on the idea though. I think the main issue is that the whole system is right at the edge of the slip threshold of the clutch. That said, doubling up the clutch seems like a bad idea.
  12. Ankoku
    So, I am busy trying to fix the Cup-to-cup module. No so much fix in terms of reverting to the original design, but more dealing with the issues that the original design had. I am left wondering whether to try and improve version 1 or try and reverse engineer version 2 of his cup-to-cup type 1. So, the gearing mechanism for the cups seems to be the main issue. This: It produces a 4:1 ratio. This is not a ratio which is easy to replicate. You can do it with 2x 8 to 16 gear cogs, but it isn't very realistic getting them to sit next to each other. I have shored up the frame which holds them, as it would move around, which was not visually pleasing and not good for the movements. The issue is, having the 12 and 24 tooth gears connected like that produces a lot of friction, which is why, along with other things, it can cause the clutch gear to slip a little bit. I am having trouble working out how to get a 4:1 ratio some other way. This is his redesign: I think the rework of the red lever is a bonus, as the old version gets very close to the threshold of flipping. The gearing with this version is an 8 to 24 and 12 to 20. Which move far more freely. Although it is difficult to see, the red lever no longer connects directly to the 40 tooth gear. There is a 24 tooth gear which sits behind the 40 tooth and powers them somehow. The whole assembly is a lot more rigid and robust and clear resolves the gearing issue and the flip point. He has also gone with 2x Universal Joint, rather than a single one. I have also made that change on the original version, as it gets rid of the issues which a single universal joint brings with it. Thoughts people?
  13. Ankoku
    Creating a 3D model isn't as bad as I had imagined. Although I look forward to seeing how his twisted hoses look for the spiral lift. Instructions are a task in tedium. Not fun at all. To be honest, it would probably be best to have the instructions for the module as is and then a separate one and parts list for a return loop addition.
  14. Ankoku
    This is my issue: I think it goes like this: Bricklink -> LEGO Soft = Hard Hard = Extra Hard Normal = Pre 2002 Shock Absorber.
  15. Ankoku
    Are the springs in the Invisible Lift old ones. e.g. on the LEGO site, all the soft springs seems to be Yellow. Or is it a labelling thing? Is Hard on LEGO site the same as Medium on BrickLink?
  16. Ankoku
    Nice to see some of my reverse engineering corrections made it in.
  17. Ankoku
    Currently sorting out parts for the Ball Triggered module. Some of the piece colour choices are interesting. So here, we have two elements. One is the Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Toggle Joint Smooth in Black. The other is Technic, Liftarm 1 x 7 Thin in Light Bluish Grey. The black one makes sense. If you want it in Light Bluish Grey, it costs over £3 in the UK on Bricklink. That said, the light bluish grey element, is over £2 in the UK. So it feels weird that one piece is changed due to cost, but the other isn't. The last date for both pieces was around the 2012-2013 time and the instructions were 2015.
  18. Ankoku
    I feel as though you work in the Intel Chip factory. Talk about a dust free environment! Very impressive.
  19. Ankoku
    I think the worst jam is where the ball unloader fails to pick up the bucket. It doesn't like that.
  20. Ankoku
    I want to see a photo of the LEGO dust created after 7 days :P
  21. Ankoku
    I would honestly create a new thread for the release of the final video. I think it deserves it. So that basically, when someone clicks on the thread, boom, the final video is there first. Either that or edit the opening comment on this thread and place the final video at the top. Great work in record time!
  22. Ankoku
    Couple of points. A shorter arm for the buckets should have them returning fast. That said, that would take a complete redesign. If you are trying to make it GBC compliant, but the module can't do 1 ball per sec, even with them grouped in 2s, then, as part of the grouping mechanism, have an overflow, which bypasses the buckets. With a module like that, slower may be way more pleasing to watch, so don't let the 1 ball per sec spoil the overall joy of watching it.
  23. Ankoku
    I was watching it yesterday. It is amazing how much work goes into making something GBC event ready. I cute module: The ramp back to the start I have seen before, but it is very aesthetically pleasing. I like how the yellow, black and grey module with the black liftarm works. Seems rather reliable and smooth.
  24. Ankoku
    Sounds like you can destroy it in a single day! :P Been fiddling with colours. Finally replaced the net at the bottom with the old style one and swapped the red 2L axle with a black one. Also swapped the brown Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Triple with a black one round the back. I still needed to add a lot of white tiles and I think I will replace the red Technic, Liftarm 3 x 5 L-Shape Thick with an orange one and replace the hoop ring at the bottom with an orange one too. Makes it all a bit more coordinated.
  25. Ankoku
    Not sure I am going to bother with this one. I like a few of the mechanisms, but it is going to be over £60 just for the train bits from LEGO. I did a BrickLinks costing and it was over £300 :P Obviously, you can do it for way cheaper than that.
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