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Ankoku

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Everything posted by Ankoku

  1. Ankoku
    New Akiyuki module:
  2. Ankoku
    It is a shame you can't @ link her on that comment! :P Yeah, Bob was certainly the main contender for needing work in the original.
  3. Ankoku
    Does anyone actually have the LDraw files or equivalent of the Akiyuki modules? I was going to edit the Catch & Release one with my mods. There doesn't seem to be files for it though. e.g. Blakbird did the instructions and renders etc. but someone else did the LDraw file and the site they hosted that on is now gone. Feel as though we should be storing all of them somewhere.
  4. Ankoku
    haha. I don't think I have ever gotten through a set of LEGO instructions without making a mistake. When I made the 42054 - Claas Xerion 5000 Tractor, I managed to miss putting in a gear, right in the belly of the beast. That was a nightmare fix.
  5. Ankoku
    It was only connected on one side? That would bug me too. For me, with the Akiyuki modules, I build them as the instructions say and if they work like in the videos, then I am happy to leave it at that. If they don't, that is when I start trying to work out where the differences are and fix them. The Ball Factory was my first ever GBC anything and I went in believing it to be correct. It was only watching it in operation that made me start looking into things. Obviously, I do make some changes. Catch & Release got a lot of mods as I didn't like the issues I could see with it, even in his videos. I am not entirely puritan! :P My main issue with Cup-to-Cup Type 1 at the moment, is the gear assembly beneath. It is just floating there, not well secured, which means if there is any resistance, it moves around and can act like a spring once the resistance is surpassed. I have been hand cranking it and there is resistance is the cup-to-cup part, so I will loosen everything up there before making any changes.
  6. Ankoku
    Old but good:
  7. Ankoku
    Looks as though he no longer has easy access to the latest version of Cup-to-Cup Type 1. Here is a better quality image, with a favourable angle from the version you see in the 2012 video: "LEGO Great Ball Contraption (GBC) Layout 2012.9". I guess that is when he last took photos of it. I am curious as to his thinking in regards to moving the motor position which you see from 2013 onwards. Was it for better access to the motor in case you needed to change it? Did it relate to the pauses I am seeing, which may be to do with the mechanism which rocks the gears back and forth. Interestingly, the ball guide which stops it progressing further round had the slope at the same level as a the tile. I have the slope one plate up. Question for @djm: In your version, you use the Slope 45 2 x 8, instead of 2x Slope 33 3 x 2 & 2x Slope 18 4 x 2. Do you think the 45° degree slope plus area of flat surface works better than having the ramp right up to the tube? In the 2013 videos and after, he is using 33° slopes, but prior he is using 45°.
  8. Ankoku
    Also works without issue on top speed.
  9. Ankoku
    I can replicate a pause and strain in motor with no balls. Interestingly, it seems to be roughly X amount of revolutions. It seem quite rhythmic. So probably every 15-20 would-be ball exchanges, it will pause slightly. No idea why.
  10. Ankoku
    Okay, so here is the height adjustment in action. This is with zero effort on syncing or cup angle, so it could certainly be better. It was my first attempt with the adjusted height and original guiders. Here is one notch faster on the LEGO 8878 Power Functions Rechargeable Battery: Not sure which vid it occurs in, but you see the spiral lift slow a little due to the balls getting stuck slightly. This does bug me, but it occurs on even the latest version of Akiyuki's Cup-to-Cup. I will look into it further, but may be a design flaw. Never noticed it on the Ball Factory. Anyway, the outcome of the change was better than expected. The way the balls get lost behind it really bugs me. And yes, this is the smallest amount of testing possible, but it feels like I am going in the right direction.
  11. Ankoku
    I am starting to feel that this bit: Sits one plate higher than it does in the instructions. I believe that makes the height difference between the pin points of both tubes the same. Thus the upper tube would now hug as close to the rotator as the lower one. It also mean the ball drops into the cup without the need for such a strong angle on the cup arm. Still experimenting, but those are my initial feelings.
  12. Ankoku
    I always keep a look out for modules I haven't seen before. In this case, it is from 2015. I have never seen the clock module before. It is right at the start of the video, but also appears a number of other times as the person loops the circuit. I like the speed and motion of the single arm. Oddly pleasing.
  13. Ankoku
    I just realised that the axle that goes through the centre of the spiral lift is probably a single 16L, rather than 2 separate axles which float around. I am going to leave it as is, as I want to cap off the top with another tile. That said, I do suspect it is a 16L Axle in the original.
  14. Ankoku
    The bit which surprised me, was the fact that the postage is pretty reasonable. From what I remember, from a fair while back, the postage used to be the killer part of ordering from Bricks & Pieces. I could be wrong, but I remember that being the reason I didn't order much from there. Now I see it as a realistic option for small amounts of pieces, especially when I object to the price on BrickLink on principle. I did the same with getting all the Black Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Triple required for the Invisible Lift. From an OCD point of view, the nonsymmetrical nature of the grabber still bugs me. Just one of those things though.
  15. Ankoku
    Is the grabber which takes the buckets off the wheel symmetrical now? It never was in the original. I ended up buying 30x 40T Gears directly from LEGO, since they were cheaper there than on BrickLink.
  16. Ankoku
    Yeah, I tried bending it in Studio.IO and it instantly looked like a Slinky gone wrong. So I hit undo. The tools for hoses could do with some work.
  17. Ankoku
    Had no fear of that. That said, it is a bit like Facebook and more recently Bounty. I would rather not upload stuff which isn't needed. These days, the issue may relate more to someone hacking the site and stealing all the upload IO files. Anyway, my main issue, was the fact that it let you export a CSV file which was incompatible with BrickLink.
  18. Ankoku
    I might set up a network monitor and see what it uploads via a test parts list. Would be worth knowing. @SylvainLS Your insight into the internal upload feature seems well thought out. It already uploads the list whether you like it or not, to create the estimated price tag in the status bar at the bottom of the window. Which I think is kinda annoying. As I said, at this point, it is more about awareness than anything, as I already converted the CSV file to BSX. Scattering the pieces sounds like hard work. The model is a good bit over 1000 pieces. The IO file will be made public once it is done, since it is GBC module designed by someone else, where I am doing the digital version with their permission. It is the principle of the thing more than anything.
  19. Ankoku
    Is it a feature you need to be logged in for? (I have no issue with that being the case)
  20. Ankoku
    Well, I wrote a PHP file to convert it from CSV to BSX, but I was wondering if there was a site which did it out there. Converting text formats is easy, it is just tedious and I find it slightly annoying that Stud.IO tries to force you to upload the full model to them.
  21. Ankoku
    Is there a way to convert the CSV file into something vaguely useful? I don't really have any desire to upload my .IO file. It offers to create a CSV file, but BrickLink doesn't support the upload of CSV files. O_o;
  22. Ankoku
    For anyone with the 2 plate Ball Factory, this is how Akiyuki deals with splitting the plates for transport.
  23. Ankoku
    Found a couple more shots of it in various YouTube vids. Looks as though it is something like this: Weirdly, Stud.IO on has 7 lengths of Ribbed Hose, the length needed for this module is not one of them. There are about 30 different lengths in total.
  24. Ankoku
    The instructions version seems to be finicky and wants to jam. I will start changing it back to the original. Already noticed a few differences in the images that will take some of the variance away. e.g. I prefer things in fixed positions rather than where you need to adjust it.
  25. Ankoku
    Great to see the cleaner coming along. It is such a big and difficult project to do. I rather like the twin colour Catch & Spin! I have started to build the Akiyuki Cup-to-Cup Type 1 module. As ever, it seems that the instructions do not match the Akiyuki original and thus don't seem to work as well. Has anyone tried to work out what is going on in the original design? This is nothing like what is in the instructions. Also, using 2x Technic, Liftarm 1 x 3 Thin is smoother and more secure than Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular 3L with Center Pin Hole.
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