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Ankoku

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Everything posted by Ankoku

  1. Ankoku
    Got to work out how this is connected to the yellow slope. I need to remove this: From the support, as it doesn't actually appear in any version of Cup-to-Cup - Type 1 and now is getting in the way. You can just see it here, middle right, hiding behind the black Technic brick: Photo provided by Akiyuki.
  2. Ankoku
    Good to know.
  3. Ankoku
    Sometimes the differences come from Akiyuki improving the module post that point where someone reverse engineered it. That said, loads of differences are just where the reverse engineering is wrong and correcting it to be the same as the Akiyuki version makes it run better. Cup-to-Cup is mainly an issue where it got reverse engineered before the final version. Ball Factory is no different. He made changes to that post reverse engineering. That said with the Ball Factory, so much of that was just fundamentally wrong. It is a miracle it worked at all. You enter into that weird world where people build it, but never run it. Or it isn't reliable, so it never get used. People didn't seem to ask why it didn't work like in the video. I tried my own modification to the Cup-to-Cup in regards to the cup drive mechanism, but it was a bit of a disaster. I learnt the gearing needs to be near where the final motion is. Which wasn't ideal since everything was at a funny angle. Which is why I decided to try and work out his new version. It seems he himself had the same issue. Which is why the whole thing is so different. To allow for the gearing to be properly clamped to the support, close to the area of motion. I am part way through building the Ball Triggered module. I am praying that doesn't need fixing. Everyone module leaves me dreading how many hours I will need to dedicate to it. One which amazed me was that the wheel drive mechanism on Fork-to-Fork wasn't clamped to the wall properly in the instructions, even though it was in his original version. In the instructions, it is just held in place by 1 pin and the rotating axle O_o; Hardly ideal in regards to smoothness of motion. Watch out for that, if it is the same with Wheel and Step.
  4. Ankoku
    Sometimes, you just have to build it to make sure. Here is the most recent version of the Cup-to-Cup Type 1 cup support frame: It uses less LEGO than the previous version, less visual clutter and is surprisingly rigid, which is one of the things I was unsure about. The only thing stopping the horizontal liftarms from rotating, is the 4 cross section. There is nothing else stopping it. Both this version and the previous one gives me reasons to admire Akiyuki's work. It always impressed me that the vertical lift arms remained vertical to the ground in the previous version. Even though this did cause a whole host of issues. This new version has an efficiency to it which impresses me. The yellow 3L liftarms at the bottom are only yellow because I ran out of black ones! I will also most likely change the light bluish grey Technic, Pin 3L with Friction Ridges Lengthwise and Centre Pin Hole with black ones.
  5. Ankoku
    This could be a potential solution:
  6. Ankoku
    Trying to work out how the other liftarm is attached. Sadly there aren't 4L pins :P Managed to attach the left one by using a 3L liftarm. That side has a lot more room since it is using a smaller gear. Sadly, what glimpses you get in videos aren't much help: As you can see, the space between the two liftarms, at the bottom, is pretty clear.
  7. Ankoku
    Everything seems a bit fragmented GBC community wise. Some is here, some is on a Discord, others on Facebook etc. etc. I kinda like leaving things here, since that is where people will often end up if they are looking for Akiyuki GBC instructions.
  8. Ankoku
    Just noticed that he has completely changed the way the gears are supported. The liftarms no longer go vertically up, but actually perpendicular to the slope. The entire back support is now wider as well, as the cross bracing liftarms at the back are 1 width further out. A lot less cross bracing too. Should hopefully make things easier to model digitally and it gives it a cleaner look. Will also get rid of the collision issue I was having due to bent LEGO.
  9. Ankoku
    There are some nice LEGO pendulum clock MOCs, but they are all rather big. Thinking about it, you want the old style motors which are really quiet.
  10. Ankoku
    He has put many of them on Ideas and the most votes any of them got was 762. Some were in double digits. Might be better to use one of the LEGO wind-up devices. Would be really annoying to have to sit there and hand crank it the whole time.
  11. Ankoku
    GBC stuff generally does poorly on Ideas. I think the community is quite small. I think the best way to sell a module, is a bit like one of those office desk ornaments. So something which has a loop back and at least one mechanism which is pleasing to the eyes and mind. The best supported GBC module had 762 votes. Most are in double digits.
  12. Ankoku
    I will be doing instructions for it. If you look at the already existing instructions on this thread, it shows you all you need to know and Akiyuki has used it in a number of modules. The changes I have made actually makes the construction simpler as you have less LEGO going horizontal. Haven't done enough testing to confirm that it won't jam, but I will be doing that before long. Kinda hoping to do it post doing the revised power mechanism. This, in every Cup-to-Cup video I have ever seen, really bugs me! They don't annoy me as much as ball pumps, but still, they are just bored balls, waiting for something to happen. I am sending the IO files to Akiyuki, so if he sticks them up somewhere, they will be out there.
  13. Ankoku
    Hopefully they will start shipping from China before too long. Would be so nice to just buy X boxes of 30 or 50 or whatever it is of the old style balls. That said, I am just glad they still make the balls in some form or another and they are sold on B&Ps. Just imagine if they didn't and it was like the buying the headlight cups.
  14. Ankoku
    Here is the changed hopper, which should hopefully stop balls collecting there.
  15. Ankoku
    Yeah, considering that GBC is a big attraction at every LEGO event, you feel as though LEGO could make life a little easier for the GBC hobbyist, rather than just the exhibitioner. A very long time ago, someone added a CUUSSO thing, which was 15 soccer balls and 15 basket balls. e.g. the original ones with black highlights. Obviously, it failed epically, but it was a nice idea. Being a set, it could be done at a more reasonable price point. e.g. 60+p a ball is a tad insane. It is never going to be a big seller, but it would make LEGO's life easier in regards to Bricks & Pieces and it would help out the fans a lot. Just have an entry on Pick a Brick or on the LEGO shop website, where you can buy X amount of 30 balls. The main thing I dislike about 3rd party balls, is that most of them tend to be either shiny or perfectly smooth. It is the matt patterned LEGO balls which I prefer and obviously, people prefer to get actually LEGO stuff where possible. Obviously CUUSOO is no longer around I don't think everything got transferred over to Ideas. Here is evidence of it from 2012: https://yiharuablog.wordpress.com/2012/01/08/gbc-balls-reedition/
  16. Ankoku
    They do keep coming back into stock. That said, the time between out of stock, and in, can be quite large.
  17. Ankoku
    Starting to add my changes now: These are a mix of "reverting back to the original" and an addition of my own. On the left, is my own addition. One of the main issues I had, was how far out the hoses were from the rotating cylinder. This meant the balls sank lower between the two and added friction. It just didn't feel right. The main offender seemed to be the top hose, so to make it hug closer, I changed the way it connects to the wall bracket. The gap made me suspect the height of the tower as a whole is also wrong. So the bracket on the right is raised by 1 plate. This helped fix the hose hugging issue, the guider catching on the rotating cylinder and also helped with making sure the ball makes it into the cup every time. Since it drops from a slightly higher position in relation to the cup, it gives a bit more slack on syncing and just makes it work better. So I think this is the actual high in the original Akiyuki version. I also made the guide the same as that seen in the Akiyuki videos. It removes the ugly Light Bluish Grey Plate, Modified 2 x 2 x 2/3 with 2 Studs on Side. It all seems to work really well. Oh and I have made the tiles go all the way across. I have never understood why the axle pokes through. Doesn't seem to be any need for it to do so. Once I have finished off all the versions, I will sort out the instructions for them. Next version modifies the hopper so it doesn't collect balls, which never get cleared, any more.
  18. Ankoku
    These are the design IDs: White has: 6261261 & 6018511 Orange has: 6261264 & 6023209 If you go to Bits & Pieces at the LEGO site and look at the large images for those parts, you can see the different patterning.
  19. Ankoku
    Last time I looked, they had both sets of white and orange available. Shows how quickly they sell out. Am hoping, with the new pattern design, they may keep more in stock for a while.
  20. Ankoku
    Does the torque gear get looser over time?
  21. Ankoku
    Getting there, even though it doesn't all line up properly. This is basically just the original instructions recreated in Stud.IO. Next version of it will include my fixes. The version after that will have my hopper changes, to stop balls from taking up residence there. Final version will use the new drive mechanism that Akiyuki is using. As for the hoses, screw them!
  22. Ankoku
    The joys of bent LEGO in the world of digital. Digital designers really aren't very Technic friendly. Where everything is at random angles, it is a nightmare. Here you can see that it is impossible to span the gap of the ramp without bending some LEGO. Since you can't really do that in digital designers, it just leaves you with something rather messy looking. For someone who is slightly OCD, having collision issues everywhere is a bit of a nightmare. And no, switching collision detection off isn't any help.
  23. Ankoku
    Is there some way to get universal joints to hinge in Stud.IO?
  24. Ankoku
    Great work! Love the mechanisms involved! This is going on the "To Build" list.
  25. Ankoku
    I can snap end 1 easy, I can't end 2. End 2, the moment I click on it, tries to shoot off to some far off point on the screen. It is like trying to control a manic dog on the end of it's lead. I can't even pull the end back to the 2nd pin. I just don't understand why they have enabled some form of physics engine to it whilst you are trying to manipulate it. That should only be done when you press a button after you are done, so it can attempt to smooth itself out.
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