Johnny1360

Sure, I will try and remember, once I get started. I really do need to pick up some more of those control arms with the ball socket on the ends, I seem to remember not having near enough on my last attempt. Regardless I'm sure mine would be a much more simplified version of yours. I am looking forward for the track to open and the cars to start running, so I can get some good pictures in the pits, for reference. Edit: Good choice of drivers too, by the way, following your progress is really giving me the itch to get started.

Hey now, that turned out pretty cool, looks right smart. One thing though how come the rims are yellow I thought they were orange on that set.

Good to see you haven't thrown in the towel yet, it is a tough car to replicate with LEGO for sure. It looks to me as though the front wheelbase is wider than the rear or is that just an optical illusion? Now that May is just around the corner I might retry my skills at this project. Thanks for the inspiration and good luck with the body work.

As with most everyone else, I am in awe of this creation. You have done, as usual, a fantastic job recreating a vehicle, that although is not one of my favorites a great car none the less. The one thing I really like is the suspension system, so much so I think I will try it on a future moc. I am looking forward to seeing even more detailed pictures, especially the suspension setup. And that engine is just a work of art, in my opinion anyway. Great work and I hope it commands a price worthy of all the time and effort you have obviously put forth. In this day and age of everything being RC I am always glad to see cars such as this.

Well if it would be okay taller, you could use Technic beams with pin half pins in it connected to the existing structure with more pin half pins in the top with flat plates on the beams. Or regular pins with a half beam on each side of the pins, then stick that on the structure followed by flat plates again. Of course both ways would make it 1 beam and 1 plate higher, since I can't really tell what your creation is I don't know if that would look okay or not. Any chance for more pictures?

Are you talking about a standard 3 point hitch as is found on the back of most tractors?

I would also suggest those inverted tiles, I really think that would be your best option, unless of course you were to tear it down somewhat. Then you could use various snot plates to achieve a studs up orientation.

As much as I hate to admit that is probably a good idea. I have tried countless methods so far and the best luck I have had and what I am going with is to use bricks on the baseplate then plates. Something everyone else probably already knew. I tried total coverage and various grid patterns, the one that seems to work best is a grid pattern 4 studs with a brick then 4 empty studs using an alternating pattern of blank studs and filled studs each row, like a checker board. Then cover with plates, it still bows like crazy, I can almost slip a full plate under the middle of the 48x48 baseplate. Hopefully the weight of the build will counteract this effect, at least plates aren't randomly popping loose when I push it down applying other bricks and plates. So I will probably end up gluing it to a board in the future, hopeful it doesn't eventually bow the board as well. I am liking these big flimsy baseplates less and less. I do like using it for a building mat though, just not finding it very useful incorporated into a build.

Yes even TLG recommends this method. I always get a kick out of how poorly the stickers are positioned on display models at my local LEGO store. Then again I am very picky as well and insist on perfection with my own models.

Yes I have noticed, the studs on a 16 long plate are longer than the same 16 studs on a base plate, which is what causes the base plate to bow up in the center. I guess they do that to counteract the issue you explain with the 1x2 Brick wall. The problem I am having is the more layers of plates I add the more the center of the 48x48 base plate bows up. I have tried several different ways of compensating for this like making an open grid pattern of smaller plates also tried longer plates, in between layers nothing seems to work. Curiously I can achieve decent results if I just don't use a base plates. I will try it with bricks inbetween the base and upper plates, if that doesn't work I will just shit can the base plate altogether. Since it is quite obvious the stud spacing isn't the same as the plates. Thanks for all the help, I guess I was just hoping there was some trick to it.

Totally flexible in how I go about it, would shorter bricks with a tight grid be better or longer bricks with a more open grid or solid layer of short or long bricks, just wondering how others go about it. Overall thickness doesn't really concern me just need something rigid enough to pick up without having all my structure breaking loose. I guess I should add there will be minimal terrain pretty much flat. Thanks for the quick response @Chorduroy

So I am trying to build a moc and I want to put it on a 48x48 baseplate, since I have never done this before I am unsure on how to properly layer it. Anyone who has tried it probably notices that the baseplate tends to bow as you add layers. Is there some special method for doing this with minimal bowing? I have tried alternating grid patterns of different patterns, different lengths of plates and sizes, no matter what I do it just gets worse as I add layers. So are there any tips or special techniques to do this properly. Any help would be appreciated, like I said I am totally new to this, most of my MOCs are vehicles or stand alone buildings. Thanks for reading.

@TheWebExpert I unfortunately don't know how to link it but it it is on page 4 of this sub-forum General Discussion about 14 topics down and it is called do you dream of LEGO or something similar. I like your idea with the string, I always seem to have to cut it when I can't untie it, which obviously can only be done so many times.

I am always on the lookout for new pieces, even if they are only new to me, however I don't really like to see new pieces introduced unless they are truly needed or useful. I like to build using what is available and don't really see the need to make new pieces just for the sake of making new pieces. Also most of the pieces you have made up can already be accomplished with existing parts. Nowadays if you really need a specific part they seem to be easy enough to make with modern 3D printers and there are several companies that would be glad to do it. Having said all that I do think it is great seeing what parts others would like to have, in fact there is a thread in the general discussion topic that is full of great ideas and a wonderful wish list of future parts. You should check it out, it may even give you a few ideas. Anyway keep the ideas coming who knows you may actually see your part made into reality. Edit: check out page four, "Do you dream of new LEGO parts" great ideas in there.

Just picked up 75205 Mos Eisley Cantina for $27.98 at my local Target not really that great of a deal but I figured I would get another one to expand my first one as I felt it was to small to begin with, hell I might even pick up a third. They also had some other crappy Star Wars sets for 40% off, I guess they are clearing the shelves for new sets, yay.

Holy moly, this set turned out damn good and I really wanted it but that price, I am nearly on the verge of boycotting all things Disney, which really sucks since they have so much cool stuff. Anyway it is a great set and I will be jealous of all that get it, enjoy.

Well done, enjoyed watching it. You would probably get more recognition though if it was in the appropriate thread, Brick Flics and Comics. Maybe a moderator will move it for you, anyway good job. Edit: Nevermind, I see you posted it over there 3 days ago, not sure why you put it here too. I thought I had seen this before, oh well.

Considering it is Technic, it had better have most if not all of those features, or else I am going to sit in the corner and pout. Strangely I was more interested in those vehicles in the background of that video.

Could it possibly be extreme environmental conditions, regardless if it is a huge issue, I would definitely make LEGO aware of the situation. Not trying to say you don't take care of your sets. Even if they do nothing about it now, it will be hopefully addressed in the future, unless of course you have already done so repeatedly. As good as the clear stickers are, I tend to agree with what @Aanchir said about them and feel they are more a pain to apply for younger builders. Seeing how they are more difficult to apply correctly, maybe reserve them for the more advanced sets, would be a good move, such as your UCS Y-wing. For what it's worth, I have almost all of the Speed Champions sets and only have issues with the stickers I have FUBARed myself, again only been collecting for around 3 years, so maybe it just hasn't happened yet.

I imagine the same could be said for any theme.

While it certainly isn't my favorite, it is very good. I personally am fond of the buildings, mechs and dragons and have many of them. I wouldn't say a lot of people dislike Ninjago or necessarily want to see it end though, I don't get that feeling at all, in fact most people seem to rather like it. I am sure though if and when it has run it's course we will see an equally excellent theme. I think one of the reasons it has lasted this long is they aren't afraid to refresh or reinvent the builds and story lines, instead of rehashing the same old stale sets. Hope it sticks around another couple of years but I just can't seeing it last forever like say Star Wars, hope I am wrong though.

Very good, well incorporated, the building reminds me a great deal of Back to the Future clock tower building.

Sorry no pictures but I was thinking you could use part # 6575 Technic Cam, rotating on an axle. Then the axle with stop would ride along the edge of the cam piece and be pushed out or up against the circle, providing the mechanism to expand the circle. Hope I explained this well enough, I know a picture is worth a thousand words, I just can't post pictures, sorry. It is sort of like LEGO does thier smaller engines. They often just use a 1x2 beam with pin hole and axle hole as a cam piece. I like the former though since it is only a half beam width and has multiple axle holes for different range of motions.

With a trunk?

Maybe use those cam pieces with axles with stops on the end.