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T Lego

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  1. T Lego
    Completely finished! Thank you for your help during this WIP.
  2. T Lego
    I just completed the driving test. Shifting works very smooth and the car can drive normal in every gear. Sometimes gears slip, but I only need to brace everything a bit better to solve that issue. However when I steer the car, the motors are struggeling to keep the car moving. Especially in 4th gear, when the speed changes drastically. Does anyone have an idea why this happens? I think it happens beceause there are no diffs on the axles. I didn't experience this problem in my other Audi's, but those only had RWD without diff.
  3. T Lego
    Thanks!
  4. T Lego
    Hi everyone, I would like to present my latest creation to you: A lego technic helicopter inspired by the Eurocopter EC135, in particular the police version. The eurocopter is an iconic helicopter which is widely used by police, fire and ambulance services and for executive transport worldwide. In fact I see these fly over my city almost every day The model presented here is not a very identical copy of the real machine, because I always like to be a bit free with the styling. As a matter of fact this model is in the end more of a display model than something to play with. When I started this project I aimed for a relatively small and compact package with some PF comonents inside and A goodlooking bodywork. I think I found the right ballance between panels flex axles and connectors. - Dimensions: 47x13x22 Studs -Weight: 750 g -Rotor span: 47 studs -White and Dark Azure collor scheme -easy accessible PF AAA battery box -Motorized main rotor and tail rotor powered by a PF M motor -Clutch gears for safety -Tiltable rotor blades powered by a PF M motor -Controlled using a standard PF remote controller Designing the tail (rotor) was probaly the biggest nightmare of this model. All the curved shapes and angles made it very hard to put it together. On top of that, a driven axle had to be placed inside as well. The solotion regarding the tail rotor I came up with was to use a rubber band. I tried using gears as well but it turned out too bulky and very ugly. Another challenge was the Dark Azure collor scheme. Not many parts are available in this collor so that was a huge limitation as well, but in the end it looks much better then most other collors would on this model. And at last a shot together with my Audi RS1 which, despite being built in different scales, look very nice on the shelf next to each other. Also special thanks to everyone here on the forum who helped me with the design on my WIP topic. I won't make instructions for this model, but for my current WIP I will. Comments, feedback and questions are as usual highly appreciated!
  5. T Lego
    Update: After a few days of of messing with the new gearbox and rear axle, I think I am on to something very decent. The gearbox is basically the same as before, but now it uses fewer gears to tranfer the power from to motors to the gearbox. The entire setup is also much stiffer, so that onder high loads, gears won't slip. I also conected the servo to a new, much smaller stepper which works just as good and I also made a speed indicator in the center console (you can't see it properly, beceause I have not added stickers yet). I will do some driving tests to check if the performance is acceptable, but I'll have to wait for the arrival of crucial part in order to do that. If anyone has questions, feedback or suggestions, let me know!
  6. T Lego
    Thanks for your comment! I do'nt think it is an issue with pneumatic pump. I connected the pump to a valve, not directly to the cylinders. When I pressurized the cylinders, I set the valve to the neutral position and there was just as much air leaking. For this reason I suppose it is not a problem with the pump. Very interesting.... I also used old cylinders, beceause they are much cheaper on BL (I still paid 20 euros for all 4). What position are you refering to? Just the vertical placement like I used? Thanks! It is true that there are not many new suspension ideas being shared recently. I'd love to see your suspension and I hope some of my solutions can inspire you!
  7. T Lego
    Update: Sadly I've got some bad news. I have puzzeled with the pneumtic suspension for hours now, but I think I will continue this project with regular shock absorbers. @skppo I tried both of your Ideas. The Auto compressor works, but when the battery is turned of, the system obviously doens't work anymore and therefore the car will sink due to the leaks. I also tried it in combination with springs, but the hubs from the front axle will obviously pop out of the ball joints connected to the suspension arms. This happens beceause the shock absorber can only be connected to the suspension arm and in the old setup there is not a second one located above to support. The wheels were also not very well connected to the axles beceause they only stick out one stud, so I also decided to use standerd three pin hubs. It required a few mods on the front, but this setup looks much better. Sadly though, using hubs created a new problem in the rear axle. It is a much bigger setup so the gearbox can not be squeezed in the same way into the rear axle. Which leaves me with two options: Increase the wheelbase by 1-2 studs or redesigning the gearbox and entire drivetrain layout. Another possibility is to use a different drivetrain setup, for instance 4x L motors and no gearbox for increased performance or something with an autocluch and brake.... If anyone has feedback or suggestions, let me know!
  8. T Lego
    This is a quote from the Brickcontroller topic: "It supports SBrick, BuWizz 1-2, Powered-Up, Boost and PF infrared (on Android devices having infrared emitter)."
  9. T Lego
    Lovely design! I love how many details you managed to squeeze inside this model.
  10. T Lego
    After more than three months of silence, I would like to share some progress on this MOC. Sadly I wasn't able to finish this model before the deadline of TC15 and therefore it stood on the shelf for a long time. Considering the amount of time and effort that I and the kind community here put in to this model, I realy wanted to pick it up again. -Tail (received some mods) mounted -Rotor blades -finished the front end -Details like the spotlight and IR camera have been added. I tried to follow up @I_Igor's and @Thirdwigg's advice to use gears instead of the rubber band to propell the tail rotor, but the result was too bulky and not aesthetically appealing. The latter is obviously not that sophisticated, but it works smooth enough. As @steph77 pointed out earlier, the design takes the lead in this model. It is just a couple of bricklink orders away from being finished. It will only need some parts in the correct colour. Let me know what you think! I am still very much open to change!
  11. T Lego
    Thanks! There is space for a motorized pump, but does it have to be activated at all times in order to maintain pressure?
  12. T Lego
    Sadly I currently experiencing air leaking in my suspension system. When I pressurize the cilinders, all pressure is gone in a couple of minutes. This is the first time I am using pneumatics so I do not know what causes this problem. Does anyone have an idea how I can solve this. I am using (old) small cylinders, T-pieces, a valvse and regular silicone tubes.
  13. T Lego
    Thanks! I agree and I will take a look.
  14. T Lego
    Update: -Stiffened the chassis and front suspension -Interior and dashboard finished (exept for some stickers) -Pneumatic tubes added on rear shock absorbers -Added a lever which can turn on and off the Buwizz The lever is not very visible. The lever is made out of this part https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32054&C=11#T=S&C=11&O={"color":"11","iconly":0} which is located next to the Servo motor. @TechnicRCRacer is this what you meant regarding the suspension? It also enabled me to place beams which connect to the center concole. Now the chassis is incredibly stiff. I have also added seats (they are from the RS1) and they fit very well. originaly I thought they were too small, but it is not bad at all. @Thirdwigg I have ordered some of those headrest parts to see how they look. The interior is very clean and I also found a good way to hide future wires and pneumatic tubes. I only want to add a few stickers and then the interior is fully completed Have a great day!
  15. T Lego
    Awesome!! You are right about that if that was the only conection point, but the cylinder is also connected like this:
  16. T Lego
    5 or 6 (prefered) studs. Your seats look realy nice! I'll try to built them to see if they fit well. Which part is the headrest made from? If @Thorsten50 wants to collaborate again, for sure. He was very kind enough to help me with my RS1 too and the result was absolutaly amazing.
  17. T Lego
    Thanks! I think those panels are too small for this scale even with some connectors around them. @Lox Lego is indeed a great seat designer but all of his designs are made for 1:8 cars... But maybe he can help us out here! Thanks for testing the cylinders! I am glad to hear that they can support the weight (it probably won't be heavier than 2kg). The front cylinders won't pop off their support beceause the lower ports of the cylinders are connected to the chassis, just like the cylinders on the rear axle.
  18. T Lego
    Another update: gearbox shifter/stepper with Servo motor rear axle dashboard and centerconsole I started\ designing the dashboard, beceause it will have an important role in the strength and stiffness of the car. The same goes for the center console. Details like the gage cluster, infotainment screen (no sticker yet) and gear lever have been placed. If you look closely, you can see the pneumatic valve which will controll the air suspension. Here you can see the first rear axle prototype and new stepper/shifter meganism for the gearbox. The car sits lower than I should be, beceause the pneumatic cylinders have not been presurized yet. I am currently waiting for a bricklink order which contains rubber bands and pneumatic hoses. Hopefully I can do some proper gearbox and suspension tests to see if everything works. Also, I am looking for a nice seat design for this car. If anyone has a sugestion, let me know!
  19. T Lego
    Time for a major progress update: As you can see the chassis has grown a lot with some of the wished functionality allready inside. You can see a 4 speed sequential gearbox (from @crowkillers) in the back and two L motors next to it. The differential is integrated in the gearbox and you can see one of its outputs which goes to the front axle. I also came up with the idea to use the small pneumatic cilinders as shock absorbers rather than the springs. The tubes and needed pressure is not applied yet. It is in general a way better setup. I also started with the rear axle which is integrated tightly in the gearbox. I still have to design hubs and figure out how and where to place the pneumatic cilinders here. I also have an idea for the shifting meganism in mind. Let me know what you guys think!
  20. T Lego
    The key I used is custom hubs. They give you way more options for springs and steeringracks. Placing the springs very close to the wheel creates space in between the wheels which can be used for electronics or mechanisms. Without this it wouldn't be possible to achieve my design parameters.
  21. T Lego
    XD! thanks
  22. T Lego
    Yes, yes yes... I am going to build another Audi After a very good result of my previous Audi, I thought with those design parameters I can't make a better car. Therefore I wanted to do something different, yet similar. I am going to scale up (slightly), and add a bunch of new features. I also realised that performance of the result won't be comparable to the previous one. The main reason for that is, that I am not going to use buggy motors. I recieved many questions like: "can I build it without expensive buggy motors?'' . I will be using these wheels: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=41896c04#T=S&O={"iconly":0}. I want the car to be 19 studs wide and have a wheel base of around 25 studs. The design parameters are: All wheel drive (quattro) with a central differential and without diffs on the axles. Front and rear independent suspenion. 50-50% (or close) weight distribution Servo steering (perhabs with steering wheel) Driving using two L motors 4 speed sequentail gearbox (servo operated) A good looking bodywork that reflects modern Audi's A good looking interior without any electronics/mechanisms visible Funcionality does not compromise for aesthetics (previous version is a great example) BuWizz power I allready have made some progress on the front axle. This is the result of many hours of puzzeling. It meets the requirements mentioned above. The buwizz is located behind the front axle and underneath the future dashboard. Axle for driving runs underneath the buwizz. I used these parts for the steering rack. It is connected to an eight tooth gear. On the same axles sits a 16 tooth gear which connects with the 20 thooth gear connected to the servo. The turning radius is great. I used these parts to stabilize the CV joints The next step will be to design the gearbox and rear axle. They will be integrated to save space. Comments, questions and feedback are highly appreciated!
  23. T Lego
    I completely agree. One of the most satisfying things (IMO) in Lego technic is shifting gears when driving an RC vehicle. To realy see a gearbox in action is also an importantie part for me. In this way you can realy show people how it works. On the other hand, in a Manuel vehicle you can make things more realistic and there is more space for other mechanisms beceause you don’t need gaint PF components. RC sometimes is also the ultimate test for gearboxes, transmissions and axles. They are brought under high load, which means a sophisticated design is even more important. This is why I like @Madoca 1977 MOCs so much - they are nearly perfect in what they do.
  24. T Lego
    Hi, I had the same idea to use the space in between the front axle with motors/batteries and I have some solutions I can share, hopefully it is useful. In both my audi’s , I wanted to use this, beceause it helped me to fit all electronic components better and it results in a very good weight distribution. Very adventagous if you want to drift! Below, you can see how I fitted a BuWizz behind the front axle with the parts you mentioned in your first post. It also has suspension, but only the springs were used - not the entire shock absorber assebly. The servo is located in between the Seats. The steering problem you mentioned is also solved here by using two gears (12 and 20 tooth) Here is another example. The BuWizz is now placed in between the axles. You can find more info here:
  25. T Lego
    Hi everyone, As I promised, Instructions have been made: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-21796/T-Lego/audi-rs1 Special thanks to Thorsten who did an exellent job at making these high quality PDF instructions. The car has 1028 parts and, as far as I am concerned, can only be built in red-black and black-black. For the instructions I made a few mods to the car and now it has a fully modual chassis! It consits of six seperate modules: Cabin Frame Rear axle Front axle Engine Roof Hope you like it!
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