T Lego

@Thirdwigg and @steph77 I have followed your advice. I have now used these for the tale. I have also figuered a way out how I can rotate the tail rotor using the rubber bands. keeping everything clean and flush is very hard. If you guys have any suggestions on allternatives/improvements, let me know!

Thank you very much guys! To be honest I have not redesigned te cabin yet - It looks like I have beceause of the perspective. You are right about the skids, but it is will presumably not have much impact on the total look of the helicopter so I'll fix it when the rest is done. btw, I fergot to post the foto of the tail. I am still experimenting very much since it is a complicated shape. In this version I use the Chiron fenders to get the right curve. The tail rotor will be rotated using rubberbands. Let me know wether you like it or not and If you have any ideas about alternatives, let me know.

Stunning! I do prefer four blades compared to two. I also think that this would look bonkers in green, sadly though their aren't many green technic pieces available..

Hi, It has been a while since the last update, beceause I had very little time to build. However today I worked a little more on the rear end. Now I need to figure out a way to connect the tail to the body. Let me know what you think!

Thank you very much for the RC instructions Bruno! I will build this in the near future for sure, eventhough it will bankrob me. I would have loved to see a picture of this and you laferrari together. I am sure that some day, someone will have the three legendary hypercars on their shelf!

Thanks a lot! Maybe I'll make another video after I practiced drifting a bit more. This time outdoor in the mud.

Thanks a lot! I am glad you like it! About the wheels, I wanted to use those specific tires, beceause they are very good drifting wheels. I chose those rims beceause they were the only ones that allowed me to get it 17 studs wide. The tire and rims, theoretically, are not compatible, but I found that they work together perfectally fine! And I am sorry that you dislike the music Note: If anybody knows rims that are compatible with these tires and allow me to maintain 17 studs of width, let me know!

Thanks, the highest you can set BuWizz with two buggy motors is in fast mode. In loudicrous the batteries are flat in no time and you get electrical cuts very often. However, I will be practicing it more for sure. Thanks, sorry I fergot to mention, but free building instructions are being developed. They will be done before February.

Hi everyone, perhabs some of you remember my first post on eb: Audi rally car. Soon after I posted it, I realised that I didn't like it enough. Therefore I decided to create a brand new version with roughly the same DNA. The main goals for the new version were to look better and drive better compared to the old one. To improve the looks, I went for a classic collor scheme: red body and black roof. I also downsized the width (17 stud compared to 18) and the wheelbase (two studs shorter). To get some more contrast, I put blue racing stripes on the seats. Making the car smaller meant I couldn't use some tricks used in the old one, such as BuWizz inbetween the front wheels. It is now located underneath the trim. To improve driving, I decided to use two Buggy motors rather than one and put them as low as possible in the chassis for the best COG. The gear ratio is the same as before: 1:1. The steering is also much smoother and has almost no backlash. Due to these improvements the car drifts WAY better then the old one. It even does donuts. Here you can see some pictures of the drivetrain and rear suspension. Due to the insane power from two buggy motors, gears often slipped during the development. A simple but effective solution I came up with was to use knop gears rather than 12t bevel gears to transfer the power to the rear wheels. The car features, like the old one, front and rear suspension, but it is a very different setup. The front now uses traditional suspension arms and the rear is a liveaxle without diff. The doors and bonnet can be opened manually. Because there is no battery under the bonnet, there was a bit of space for a fake V6 engine made out of knop gears. More pictures can be found here: https://www.bricksafe.com/pages/T_Antonie/random/audi-rs1 In case you think that the car is slow, that is due to the fact that I am a NOOB driver. In all the video clips BuWizz was in normal mode. You can watch the video presentation here: I'd love to know your thoughts and critics or other feedback are highly appreciated too.

Thank you! I understand your complaint - I will try to make the nose longer. Anyways I have made some progress on the fuselage. Especially on the rear end. I also managed to fit a PF reciever in the back so I can opperate the build with brickcontroller. The tail and the top of the heli will be, hopefully, built in dark azure. I just started experimenting with some panels to get the right shape. Let me know what you think and If you have any sugestions, let me know!

Today, I worked a little more on the helicopter. I started with the nose and I am realy happy how it turned out, since building round shapes is always very hard with Lego. I also came up with a simple, but detailed cockpit design. Let me know if you like it. Suggestions for improvements are appreciated!

Thanks! I think I know what you are talking about regarding the tail rotor, but I have a solution in mind. I will try to replicate the white/blue color scheme, but I am not so sure about the orange stripes on the nose. I think I could only do that with stickers...

Hi everyone, It might be a bit late to start a topic for the TC15 contest, but all my Lego time went up during the last few weeks to finish another moc. I decided to start building this specific helicopter, beceause nobody has built this specific version in technic before and I quite love this one. I am aiming for a compact replica of this helicopter with some basic features using powerfunctions and without the use of specific swashplate parts: -Controlled main rotor and tail rotor by one M motor -Controlled rotor blades (collective) by one M motor using a mini linear actuator -The use of clutch gears for a safe build -All powerfunctions shall be opperated via smartphone This is where I want to start with and more manual functions can eventually be added later. Here are some pictures of the wip (sorry for the poor quality) Let me know what you think!

Hi I have an issue with my BuWizz v2. I recently charged my BuWizz becease the batteries were empty. Now however, my BuWizz is coonstantly (for more than 12 hours right now) flashing a red light. When I try to connect to it via the app, the light flashes even faster, but I can not get acces. Besides, since I recieved my buwizz, I never saw a green light, nor orange. Even when the battery was fully charged. I didn't report this problem, becease everything seamed to work fine. Does anyone have an Idea about what is going on? I aslo found a video from someone else who had the same issue:

This is what I have right now: The odd and even gearbox outputs are connected via the dual clutch system that you can see on the right. The shifter axle is connected to the third rotatry catch via two 12t gears, a 16t gear and an 8t gear. When I use the gearbox, I do not experience that the input is locking up.

Here you go. I have taken a look at the LDD file and as far as I am concerned, you did not make any mistakes Note: I am almost done with the dual clutch system and rear axle integration

Thank you for building it in LDD! I can’t take a picture yet beceause I am on vacation. I will be home within a week, so then I can send you a close up. Are you able to finish the gearbox itself (without limiter) without that info?

https://bricksafe.com/pages/T_Antonie/ Done Let me know if you have any questions.

I don't, but I can PM you some more detailed pictures so you can reverse engineer it if you want.

Hi, I want to share my 7+R gearbox here. The main idea was to design an advanced gearbox for 1:10 scale supercars, so it had to be compact. The gearbox consists of two of @Didumos69's 4 speed gearboxes. I modified the first one to substitute first gear with a reverse and I geared up the second 4 speed gearbox by 1.2. I geared up Reverse gear by 1.2 as well, so that first gear and reverse have the same ratio. R) 0.72 1) 0.72 2) 0.75 3) 0.9 4) 1 5) 1.2 6) 1.25 7) 1.5 So this gearbox is basically a dual clutch gearbox, since it has a gearbox for odd and even speeds. Actually the gearbox has no clutches (yet). The shifting meganism has a 90 degree limiter hidden inside and it is connected to two rotary catches by a 12- and 24 teeth gear. Every time you shift, the rotary catches rotates 45 degrees. I was hoping that when the rotary catch is at a 45 degree angle, no gears are engaged, so that when the other rotary catch is in a normal 90 degree position I can connect output 1 and 2 without dual clutch. In reality though, this is not a reliable solution. When the rotary catch is at a 45 degree angle, the driving rings can move 2 mm toward the driving ring and engage a gear. When I tested the gearbox with a motor, I found that sometimes only one output rotates and sometimes two. Conclusion: I still need a dual clutch meganism. (I will try to integrate it into above the rear axle) Let me know what you think. Sugestions for improvements are apreciated!

@ndm1306 Thanks! LvdH is right, it wouldn’t be fair to make instructions for this MOD and besides I don’t have Any experience with making digital building instructions. If you are seriously interested in building this, I say you should start building the @PvdbOne:1 (withouten gearbox and shift meganism) and then you can send me a PM if you want detailed info/pictures.

I have finished my motorized mod of this one:1 yesterday: the RS1. In pauls one:1, I especially liked the door meganism.

Changed the title! The gear ratio is indeed 12:20. It has plenty of torque to drive in 8:24 too.

Hello everyone, I'd like to share my latest MOD: Koenigsegg Agera RS1 This car is one of my favorite road-going super/hyper/megacars, and therefore I decided to build it. To me and many others, Koenigsegg is a very special car manufacturer: It was founded in the nineties by Cristian von Koenigsegg, a man without any engineering education background and budget. On top of that, all Koenigseggs are handcrafted and are produced in limited quantities. I like the RS in particular, beceause it is IMO the most beautifull Koenigsegg and it holds the top speed world record. This car is not fully designed by me. @Pvdb build the Koenigsegg one:1 more than two years ago. The RS1 and One:1 have very similar Bodyworks and since Pvdb nailed that on his One:1, i decided to use his bodywork as a shell around my disigned chassis. In addition to that, I also used his door meganism, beceause I could not imagine me designing a better one Specifications: Dimensions 59x27x15 Studs Weight: 2600 g Estimated parts quantity: 2500 parts Powerfuntion elements: 2x PF AAA batteries, 2x PF V2 reciever ,4x PF L motor, 1x PF Servo motor, 1x PF M motor, 2x PF 50 cm wire The RS1 is basically the same as any other RS, but it has the one MegaWatt engine upgrade. The RS1 is specced in white with a black center stripe and it has many blue accents such as the interior, skirts, spoiler, diffuser and front splitter. Many of those parts of the RS1 have just a very thin stripe of blue painted on it. This means you can not replicate that with regulare LEGO parts. Stickers seemed like the only solution, but at some point the idea to use rubber bands for some accents popped in my mind. I only used this trick in the front splitter. Features: Easily removable Roof, like the real car Openable front trunk and engine bay Motorized dihedral synchro-helix actuation doors, Powered by a PF M motor Front double wishbone suspension with negative caster angle Rear triplex suspension with double wishbones Steering with working steering wheel, powered by a PF Servo motor Propulsion with working V8 engine, powered by 4x PF L motor I wanted both doors to be opeable by just one motor. This meant I had to make selector for wich door is connected to the motor. I had some free space in the center tunnel, so I decided to use the handbrake as a selector. Just behind the front wheels there is a driving ring wich can engage in two different clutch gears. Both clutch gears are connected to different doors. The motor and this meganism is placed underneath the trim. Here is the full 'transformer mode'. The front trunk and engine cover can be opened manually. If you look closely, you can see the battery and The L motors behind the seats. The recievers are placed behind the rear axle. Replicating the triplex suspension was for me a 'must have' on this car. It consists of two inclined shock absorbers and a horizontally placed pneumatic cilinder. The pneumatic cilinder is definately the most realistic looking way to make the central shock, but it is not practical. It offers resistance when extending and retracting, so I mounted some springs behind it to ensure that the model doesn't sag. In addition to all of that I also put some links on the suspension system. They are only there for an aesthetic reason though. finally, a video demonstration. Enjoy! Comments and questions are welcome!

Yes it provides enough power. In one of my MOCs I used 4 L-motors with just one buwizz and it worked perfectely.