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T Lego

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  1. T Lego
    @nerdsforprez Thanks a lot for your review! Like amorti said, the difference is quite big between the lego and CaDa version in terms of fragility. Still it was my mistake to not attach every panel in a way that it's fully secured. Anyway, lesson learned and time to get on with my current WIP ;-)
  2. T Lego
    Very nice progress Jeroen, I really like all the engine details! One question about the gearbox: have you considered using a setup like this to achieve 8 + N + R in stead of the early prototypes shown above? The gearbox shown below is based on a concept presented by Anto a while ago where you're using the two driving rings for high/low for reverse and neutral as well. Reverse has the same ratio as first gear and is realised by bypassing the 4 speed gearbox. I know it's probably too late to change anything and I am unaware about the specific space limitations, however this is a much more compact and simpler solution that could have potential. It's not much bigger than regular 8 speed gearboxes. Maybe not exactly the type of setup you were wishing but just sharing an idea here. Good luck and I'm looking forward to the next update!
  3. T Lego
    Jeroen, it's great fun to watch this car coming along so nicely (and quickly!). I would critisize the usage of connectors on the rear end. IMO using panels or soft axles would give a sharper look, especially considering that the edges are very thin on the real car. I am not so sure about the mudguard panels in the front as well. They appear to be oversized (which they do on almost every car unfortunately). The smaller arches from the 488 set seemed more appropriate but that would mean shifting back to a red body. Looking forward to more progress!
  4. T Lego
    I am not sure If I understand you correctly, but it could have been solved by putting a bar inside the ball joint pin. By using ball joints you obviously don't constrain the roof from moving laterally. @Jeroen Ottens have you considered using 3x11 panels for the center tunnel? The downside is the asymmetrie - it will look different from the passenger's side compared to the driver's. Another option is to use 5x7 frames although this does compomise the look of the interior.
  5. T Lego
    Very happy to see a promising wip topic from you again! Great realistic monocoque design, it's one of the sections I like to put in a lot of effort as well. Have you got any ideas about functions and or colour scheme yet? I'd love to see it in yellow. I am also curious to know wether you will go for a modular chassis design. Looking forward to more progress!
  6. T Lego
    @sm1995 This topic in somewhat outdated in that regard. All rims far sale are vapor ones atm and resin printed rims are coming soon. Both are way better than the more conventional PLA. I don't own the store and I am not an expert in this field so I would suggest contacting the owners via the website for your specific questions/criticism. I just request custom 3D printed stuff on the site for my own needs and the quality is superb imo.
  7. T Lego
    @brucewayne These pictures can give you an idea of how this car looks with 3D printed vapor rims on two different specs. credits: @lego_tactics and Adam Hargus
  8. T Lego
    Thank you so much for sharing the technical detials of the chassis. Man I'm in love with this gearbox, not to mention that superb suspension setup! Keep up the good work!
  9. T Lego
    Congratulations sir, what a joy to see this new masterpiece pop up out of nowhere! Fantastic authentic replica, both internally and externally and a nice evolution compared to your one:1. It's a pity that the presentaion is so short, I think we'd all love to admire this MOC from some more angles and learn about some of the mechanical solutions in the chassis. Anyway, you've nailed all the curves with a consistent combination of panels, connectors and system bricks. Creative part usage troughout the whole model as well, such as the mirrors and front winglets. Thanks for sharing!
  10. T Lego
    Thanks for sharing this massive piece of technic which somehow only consists of 2.5K parts! It's instantly recognizable and you've managed to incorparate a nice range of functions - well done! The bodywork is too boxy though. The side is as flat as the country I live in and the overall bodywork is too clutered for my taste. Furthermore Rolls-Royce is all about luxuriousness and comfort so I was a bit disappointed to see that you've built the great wall of China inbetween the front seats in stead of a more faitfull replication of the interior. Nonetheless, it's a great moc and I loved seeing a model of a car type which is not seen as frequent compared as other mocs.
  11. T Lego
    Superb B model! This one can actually be recognized as the Ferrari it was modeled after, even if it's missing some cylinders. The arches work very well on this car imo and creative solution for the headlights. Thanks for sharing!
  12. T Lego
    Excellent work sir! Considering it's a B-model, it's a fantasic rendition. You've nailed the front and rear profile views, your solutions for the head and tail lights are superb. Great functionality as well! I don't like the side view though. The top part of the front and the rear end seem too flat. Thanks for sharing, along with the extensive presentation!
  13. T Lego
    I have not closed or discussed a deal yet, for now it's just me sitting behind my desk putting some bricks together, trying to brighten the dark days of this rather depressing winter.
  14. T Lego
    No I won't update this design, however I have been working on a brand new version in scale 1:8 which will use are whole range of parts from set 42125.
  15. T Lego
    @Gray Gear I like your progress so far! Remember that no matter how long it takes, it's always worth the efforts in the end. So I would definitely encourage you to push yourself and this build to a higher level by incorparating the mentioned four wheel steering setup. I recommend taking a look at Madoca's Avtoros Shaman 8x8 which has a brilliant 4 wheel steering system with free instructions on Rebrickable. Good luck!
  16. T Lego
    After signing the legal contracts, I agreed to give cada full ownership of the IP. The instructions were published on Rebrickable before the release of the CaDa version of my Lambo which could have been a reason why so many knock offs are availble on aliexpress, amazon etc. Cada's legal team is filing lawsuits against a variety of those knock off companies as we speak. I have no idea how the legal system in China works but all I know is that since CaDa is based in China, they can protect the IP much much better than I can in my country. I would propose to shift back to the actual topic, discussing bruno's masterpiece, and continue the general third pary brick company discussions elsewhere.
  17. T Lego
    Yes, however adding such application requires a lot of extra input force on the paddles, especially with this stepper design, which would make playing not very satisfying. Charbel and I have expirimented with many different stepper mechanisms that returned to the centre but those were either too bulky or weren't reliable enough.
  18. T Lego
    There is no such conversion from manual to RC in the instructions and I have not seen any motorized version yet. As far as I am concerned they will simply add a few motors in the package (they mention that with many more knock-off sets), if not a scam of course.
  19. T Lego
    No it does not. Like astyanax said, the LA input will rotate the same amount as the LA's head so no extension of the LA. If the Axle were to be fixed, the steering wheel would remain in place - it's not connected to the head of the LA. In stead the paddles would go out of allignment with the stepper slighly if you'd turn the wheel.
  20. T Lego
    @chlego Great to hear you made it work! I was wondering why your setup gave up in the lowered position (not to cause confusion, car would be in the highered position) and figured out it was because in my setup I have a 7x11 frame underneath the lower wishbone, naturaly decreasing the range of motion of the wishbones. The result is that the shock aborber is slightly precompressed and in a 'more horizontal' position so the direction of the force when compressing the shocks is now fully clockwise. If you use a similar setup you won't need the worm gear anymore to handle the load.
  21. T Lego
    Hi @chlego , firstly welocme to EB! You are not the first to have troubles with an adjustable suspension setup. The key of a working setup is that the shock absorber mount stays in place when compressing the suspension whilst you want to be able to move it with for instance a knob too. A worm gear setup like you mentioned is definitely possible, it has been done before in quite a few mocs. The downside of such setup is that axles will get twisted slightly and usually there is a lot of backlash too. I prefer a setup with is either fully lowered or highered (so it does not allow little adjustments) in which all stress is put on the chassis like @MinusAndy mentioned. I am using a setup like that in my current wip and it works really well. The direction of the force on the pullies is the oposite if the suspension is lowered compared to when the suspension is highered. I hope it's useful.
  22. T Lego
    They are cut rigid hoses. We already cut them accros so why don’t them it lengthwise? The same trick was used to get the accents on the diffuser edges
  23. T Lego
    @Aman Thanks for sharing, looping forward to the complete car. Recently Adam Hargus finished it in red too for those considering to build it in red.
  24. T Lego
    Thanks for sharing this brilliant gearbox! I am considering to use it in my current wip but I would have to modify it so a external axle for a different function can pass trough the middle 11x15 frame. Looks challenging considering how dense it is. Well done!
  25. T Lego
    You can send a request to the designer via the site to make them. pla From my experience the assembly can handle quite a bit of stress. Compressing the suspension on a 1:8 scale car for example. The pins probably can't take the load of a RC car but it shouldn't be a problem if you glue the pins to the spokes.
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