TechnicSummse

This would need 2 remotes on 2 different channels... and 2 rc-units on channel 1 and another 2 rc units on channel 2... Theoretically this could be ok... but it would be pretty hard to handle with 2 of the rc-remotes controlling at the same time... they are really bulky

@Marxpek Did you try an air-rudder, like airboats steer for example? To answer your question... no.. i did not burn any rc unit with the 3 motor-setup. The burned one i have... i baught like it was for 1€ on ebay... sadly the seller could not tell me, how it was destroyed... i was verry curious about that. One thing you should keep in mind with your latest design is a problem i came across: If you use seperatet axles (seperately driven rearwheels), you wont have a staright run at all, since there are (in our case) huge differences in motor speeds. Especially, if you power them from different power sources. I hope you understand what i want to point out here. Edit: The rudder i meant like this for example:

He is doing this kind of Stuff for about 1 year now... he really know the basics ;) The gearing is optimized for the motors power, to have no wasted torque at the maximum speed... will mean, if he gears higher, the car will be slower, because of the lack of torque... and if he gears down, the car will be slower, because of the lack of rpm... 2 Things here... 1. this car uses 2 frontwheels= to much rolling resistance... 2. this steering mechanism will work for his so called "high speed" wich is below 20 kph... we are talking about 40 kph... its pretty much different ;) We had the discussion about suspension allready 1 year ago :D At the end... we all decidet, to not use any suspesnio... the negative things on it dominate the positive ones in our purpose. Nice to hear :)

Nice to see you back :D I was thinking about reactivating my work on this also in the next weeks :) My eyes are looking right?... you have 10 Motors and 5 RC-Units now? ... holy shit :D Well i have to say, i also collected some... i have 11 Motors and 3 (or 4, one is electrically damaged) RC Units now. But in the last months i was building on a 6x6 truck with 3 rc-units and 6 motors... so i have to deal with the lack of rc-units... Now lets come to the project... 3 RC-units, 8 Motors? Looks like you want to try my 3 motors per rc-unit-idea? Or will you add a 4th rc-unit? To the steering... i think braking the rear wheels should work ok... best to do this at the rims, to save the tires. Another idea... what about using a turntable to mount the frontwheel on? ... using the servo-output to rotate the turntable with the wheel, completeley including motors? You could center the turntable with springs on the left and right side, connected back to the chassis. Third idea... an air rudder?

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Why not? A real damper works with the friction of a liquid, and can like this work in a non linear way. This part would bring a linear damping, because the frictoin will stay the same at all speeds of compression. But anyway ...it seems there is no interest in damping lego RC-cars at all. I think its true... a damping would only be interesting at big and fast models... and the most models are big OR fast...

Well sure... a sprung wheel without a damper will allways jump like a rubberball and like this loose traction pretty often. The damper helps to keep the wheel at the ground all the time. You can see how important dampers are in this video. Driving without dampers looks really funny... but no car would be able to drive like this ;)

The damper is bigger, and the shown part allready has the 1 stud offset at the bottom... so it fits 1:1 with a large spring. Have you seen lego-rc cars with big travel offroad at high speeds? For example this one: Compare it to a real RC-Car... The Lego RC-car will allways look like a toy... because the suspension is just sprung, and not damped... thats the big difference.

Today i found this part in a bulk of Lego wich i bought. Did anyone ever try to use this as a damper, combined with a hard spring, to replicate a real car suspension? -> like this:

I quess you coupled the 2 motors by one axle...? Just seperate this connection... use 1 motor for each wheel, and here you go... you will have your differential-effect ;) BTW... i guess, its the Tesla T1 wich you rebuildet.. right?

@Didumos69 @Zero (Zblj) I would also be interested, in how they engage. Are the positions like: siwtched left; middle position left; middle position right; switched right? Can the driving rings run 100% freely in the "middle" positions?

Hmm, downgearing is also a nice idea :D Like this i could use every 90° stepper... just gear it down 1:1,5 and i have 60° steps...

@Charbel Not the one i have seen... but really cool! Thank you :)

I know i found a 60 degres stepper a few month agao, in some vidoes i saw on yt. Now i could really need it, but i dont find it again :( Does anyone have a link to a working 60 degres stepper, wich can be controlled manual or by servo? Thanks :)

Try doubeling just the output from the one motor, this should be pretty easy, and room-saving.

Any news to this? I didnt found the topic again... wanted to ask a few weeks ago allready...

Is the screw printed, or a lego one? Do you know how much rpm the screw does?

@Leonard Goldstein Verry nice little car :) Were there no problems at all with the chain links? I am pretty surprised you can power them with a L-motor without problems of falling apart. Also no problems in the rough terrain ... they did not shake off? And again i am suprised, you did not support the 16t gear on the sides... on the front and rear axle ? The only supports for the rear and front axle are the wheel-hubs?

Well yes... as i thought... this is the problem. The old battery-boxes deliver even less power then the PF-boxes. With the PF-Box it will work a little bit better... but still, if you load the motors to much, the battery-box will give up fast. Your chassis seems to be pretty light, so maybe you are lucky, and the PF-Box could work ok. But for full power, at hills or with a heavier chassis you will need 1 battery-box for each motor.

Hi YamaLP, welcome to Eurobricks. Wich batterbox are you using? The buggy-motors need a lot of power, and the regular PF-battery-boxes cannot suply enough power for loaded buggy-motors. You need at least 1 battery-box for each buggy-motor, or buwizz or the Lego-RC-unit. Could you post an image of your car?

Nice performance! What is the PF-IR-receiver for? Just for turning the lights on and off? How did you adapt the Dirt Crusher parts to the wheels? The crossaxle on Dirt Crusher is like twice as big, as the regula cross axles.. isnt it?

Wow... this is so huge... and its just crazy how many motors and pneumatics are in there. I can't wait to see the video

Nice Sherp, i really like it :) It seems there was another one about 9 month faster? The 2 models look so similar... @KevinMoo is this an early version of your build? Or is your model based on his? This Video was uploaded in jan 2017...

Hey @kbalage, i was not here at EB for about 1 week, thats why i did not see your topic here ;) You have a few nice ideas in your setup... especially the skid-steering, wich allows you to save the weight of a servo/steering-unit/rack and so on... As @zux wrote, i guess most people (on YT) think your car is 100% Lego... but still i like it, i like how it works, and how it acts. Can you tell me something about the weight? If you are in the same weight-range as we are with the rc-unit(s)... i think your gearing is to high for highst possible speed. I had a 40+ Run with 2,25:1 (36:16)... Marxpek uses 2,5:1 (40:16)... i think 3:1 at the fast output ist a bit to much and even slows you down. Another point where you loose a lot of speed is your output pinhole-friction... as you can see easy on your part-wear... you could use just half beams for the axles... and max. 2 half beam-pin-holes per axle... otherwhise you create tons of friction wich slows you dow. Even if i am evious because i would love to have such a fast car (i do not own a single buwizz, but mainly because i'm a pursit), i would still love to see, how fast this could really go with some optimizing :) But i have to say 1 thing... i really LOVE how you did your video :)

The moldet part number is: 43464 It is easy to disassemble the steering-unit... just 4 screws...