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Rudivdk

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Everything posted by Rudivdk

  1. Rudivdk
    Thanks a lot for these links, I'll study them thoroughly. I fixed my own issue with a regular buffer exchange. I've placed it around the callout containing the windshield parts, and restored it on the next page containing the callout for the hardtop roof. Worked well for my particular situation. I'll tinker some more with groups to see how that works (I must have the good old MLCAD intalled somewhere still, I can use that to compare...). I'll let you know if it works out or not.
  2. Rudivdk
    Can I somehow use below principle in LDCad? I've been fooling around with it both in LDCad and in LPub3D but can't get it to work... I know how to create a group in LDCad, but it seems LPub3d does not recognize the group (or group name) I created in LDCad (or at least does not remove it from the page) when I add the REMOVE GROUP command... The LPub metacommand to remove the group "GroupName" in any step after that group you would use: This command should be placed below the 0 STEP command of the step where you wish to remove the group. This can be the next step, but also a step further in the model or in a submodel.
  3. Rudivdk
    Been searching around the web some more, seems I have to acquaint myself with the 'group' command set a bit more... I'll try some more myself and update here if help is still needed...
  4. Rudivdk
    UPDATE: Nevermind this whole thread, I was able to get it working with a regular Buffer Exchange. Hi all, hope someone can help me here... I have a car-MOC modelled in LDCad and I am making instructions with LPub3D. I have two different windshield/roof options which make up the last two steps of the .mpd file. What I want in the instructions is to show version 1 in the next-to-last step, and show version 2 in the last step, without showing version 1 underneeth. So I guess I need some kind of buffer exchange thing here to get that done, but I'm not sure how. Does anyone have a suggestion, or maybe a working command for this? Thanks in advance! PS: if program versions or the .mpd-file are needed to answer the question please let me know and I will share
  5. Rudivdk
    I learned the hard way with my P-38... Luckily I always build in CAD as well, so I could figure out my redesign over there, but it was still extra work. And your wings look to be longer (I had 3 fuselages to distribute weight) and heavier because your wheel pods are part of the wing and not in the main fuselage...
  6. Rudivdk
    The petition originated from these forums, was already shared here and signed by a lot of EB members. While I appreciate the enthusiasm, it will most likely not matter anymore. The LEGO Group stated today that they WILL NOT release the set (period). They acknowledge there are fans who want the set (I guess they have seen the petition), but they say they value their longstanding identity more (which I can actually relate to). Personally I think the DFG-VK statement was not the real reason for pulling the set, it was just what pushed TLG over the edge. TLG was probably already about to cancel the set anyways and had their press releases already written. While I would have liked to see the set on the store-shelves, I think shouting at TLG to abandon their beliefs and motivations is not really helping them. But a lot (enough maybe) has already been said in the 42113 topic. Let's not start a second discussion on the same thing.
  7. Rudivdk
    Best... word... ever... But seriously, mechanical solutions are far more fun that just slapping in a motor for every function (sorry RC-lovers...). And if done clever, it can be far more compact too. Which you'll need in this build, there is not so much space to work with. But it looks like you're getting there. One piece of advice: test out your wings as soon as possible with a full build. Since they are only attached from one end, have a considerable surface and have the wheel pods as well, the ends will suffer from gravity and probably start hanging down. You'll need to reinforce them a lot or build them slightly angled up to negate gravity. Better to check early on to avoid redoing all your hard work in the end...
  8. Rudivdk
    Please tone down my fellow Dutchman. No need to drag local politics to an international hobby forum. And stop that '2 hipster' thing, DFG-VK is probably larger than EB with all it's members...
  9. Rudivdk
    I'd leave it out, since the text already starts with 'LEGO fans urge...'. It should not become an answer to that DBG-whatevra group, it should be a call towards TLG directly.
  10. Rudivdk
    My thoughts exactly as well. Same for the Osprey if it ever hits stores...
  11. Rudivdk
    This whole panicky looking rushed statement from TLG makes me wonder if there already was an internal struggle going on inside TLG about this set/licence. I can't imagine TLG being thrown off by some random group that easily. Maybe this was the final straw that broke the camels back. That would mean internal war (pun intended)...
  12. Rudivdk
    No need to say more than this I think, it says all
  13. Rudivdk
    This we can easily and directly prove to be incorrect: we are fans, customers and often parents as well here on EB, and WE WANT THAT SET! But discussing who is responsible for war and war-related casualties is far beyond the topic of a LEGO set being possibly cancelled... imho it is even deflecting from the actual reason to start that petition in the first place.
  14. Rudivdk
    +1
  15. Rudivdk
    Just sent my support-email to TLG
  16. Rudivdk
    This car gets better and better... do you plan on creating instructions for it? I'd love to build it some time. Or maybe I'll just start reverse engineering from the photo's, that'll be double the fun
  17. Rudivdk
    - reading this topic while coincidentally listening to (remix of) 'mad world' by R.E.M. - It really is a mad world...
  18. Rudivdk
    I could have but since that is 0.5 stud high it is way harder to attach it without wobbling all over the place. Also it is not a natural fit with the black 12t pinion gear.
  19. Rudivdk
    I have succesfully redesigned the front axle. The steering now works smooth and the steering assembly no longer touches on the bottom of the engine/chassis. I had to make some small compromises though: the steering lock has decreased a bit and the trackwidth has increased 0.5 stud per wheel so 1 stud in total per axle. The rubbing of the tires remains as before. I can live with that. Instructions will be made based on V2.0. Pictures: Old axle in the rear, new axle in front: Reduced height (old axle on the left, new on the right): Installed on the car:
  20. Rudivdk
    This LuuMa keeps putting a smile on my face every time I see someone struggling with it... I do not have any EV3 stuff, otherwise I would instantly build one to annoy people with . Nice application you found with the motor driving the kinetic sculpture, makes it even more fun to watch... Nice acting skills too
  21. Rudivdk
    During TC18 I was fooling around with some panels and I came up with this pick-up style body. I liked it so much that I kept in on the shelve and continued to make a full model out of it. I present you 'Dirt', a small-scale offroad pick-up truck: It has the following features: Front suspended dead axle Rear suspended live axle Fake flat-4 engine driven by the rear axle Front axle steering with HoG Opening bonnet and rear hatch Entire body detachable in 1 piece It can be fitted with above shown balloon tires, or the regular road tires it carries in the bed: It has quite a nice articulation on both axles, considering the scale: Unfortunately not all is perfect: The balloon tires rub on the chassis frame/wheel wells when the axles are fully articulated, the front street tires also (rear has a bit more room) The front axle's steering setup touches the underside of the engine when springs are compressed, severely limiting straight-up articulation of the axle The steering is VERY jerky (or even non-responsive), jumping from max-left to max right after a lot of pressure is built up through the HoG steering wheel. I am already thinking about completely revising the front axle into a V2.0, but I wanted to show the model in it's current, originally intended state. EDIT: see below post for the V2.0 update Instructions and a video are (again) in the works, coming soon. I'll update in this thread once available. As always: stay safe, and enjoy the holidays! Cheers! PS: A few more pics under the spoiler: Full album on Bricksafe Tell me what you think!
  22. Rudivdk
    I actually do the same. I have also noticed that the older pins can't fit a bar inside because of the ticker the collar, while the newer pins can (see the grille attachment in the 42043 Mercedes truck for example). With this, you can put 2 pins on a 4l bar, creating a 4l pin effectively. I haven't used it much, but I like the option. This only is the case on friction pins though, smooth pins have a stop inside, in the middle of the pin, so you can't put a bar all the way through.This is even the case for the newer, thinner type. Enough rant about pins and OCD, back to your MOC... Have you already put wheels on to see how the suspension behaves when sitting higher? And put something heavy on top to simulate bodywork weight? This is what I often do to get an idea early on... It's not science, but still a reasonably good indication of what to expect.
  23. Rudivdk
    Yeah, I think these are the newer, 'softer' ones... Probably only 1 year in production sofar, so all others are 'older' then... Anyway, as Jundis said, don't change anything just yet until you are sure you need it, but keep it in mind when building further (don't occupy space you might need for additional springs) and you're good.
  24. Rudivdk
    I don´t think it´s two versions, more likely just a slightly different mixture of ABS or perhaps the mold starts wearing a bit, but it seems the older ones have a bit more friction power to them (aka harder to pull apart)...
  25. Rudivdk
    That scene at 26-30 seconds... I was like oh sh*t, here it comes...
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